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July 31, 2008

What 104F Heat Can Do to You

Today's searing heat induced some impulsive behavior among our educators. Dallas buys a gnawa's gimbri (stringed instrument) immediately after a lunch performance, and Ted, like, well, he hops on Aiesha's (Arabesca's assistant) scooter for a half-block sampling of Marrakeshi street navigation. Mabrouk to both for realizing cultural immersion.

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Dallas Jams with a Gnawa Musician--then Purchases his "Gimbri"


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Easy Rider

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A Jardin Majorelle Ensemble


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Dates, Nuts, and Apricots on Display at the Djemaa el Fna


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The Painterly Light and Breathing Colors of Jardin Majorelle


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Mohamed Soudani, Lecturer on Berber-Sahara Culture, with Alex Safos, Group Leader

The first 72 hours in photos

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Mint Tea Time at Riad Arabesca

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Brad takes in the classic "Casablanca" at Rick's Cafe in the eponymous city


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Gita leads the group on a tour of the Marrakech medina


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Helen and Tammy in the grandeur of the Hassan II mosque in Casa


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Marrakech herbal souq: still life of petals


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A Colorful and Typical Marrakech Street Scene


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Gita Huddles the Group Before Entering the Djemaa el Fna Madness


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Barbara Bargains for a desk of inlaid mother-of-pearl

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Moulay Hassan Offers His Musings on Sufis and Sufism

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Zakia chants a Sufi prayer


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A Sufi Dhikr Time Lapse

July 27, 2008

Barbara in den Bosch Introduction

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Hi, This is Barbara in den Bosch.

I have been teaching World History and International Relations at St. Anne's Belfield in Charlottesville, Virginia for 12 years. Before that I taught World History and International Relations at Colorado Springs School, the International School of Kuala Lumpur, the International School of Tanzania, and Harar Meda Model School in Ethiopia. I started as a Peace Corps ESL/English teacher in Opol and Marawi in the Southern Philippines. I was married to a Dutchman for a while (hence the name) and have two children Bernard (a lawyer) 40 and Nicole (an illustrator)
39.

I travel and attend workshops as often as I can in order to figure out what is happening in the world around me. I have a BA in Asia history from Stanford University, an MA in African history from the University of Nebraska at Omaha, and have spent most of my life teaching about Europe and the Middle East. I used to play tennis tournaments but am at present an avid (if not very talented) bicyclist. I have been trying hard, especially for the last 12 years, to understand Islam and the Middle East. This will be my first trip to the Maghreb, and I am very excited.

Barbara in den Bosch

July 26, 2008

Helen Mogannam Albader Introduction

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Alex and Zeina,

I would like to thank you for all your hard work in arranging this dream trip. And to all of you, it was a great pleasure meeting you at the orientation, I was so impressed to meet such enthusiastic people interested in the Arab history and culture.

I am a Palestinian born and raised in Ramallah. I had my undergraduate education in Beirut, Lebanon ( we should go on our next trip) and my graduate in the USA in the 70's, and 90's. I taught English as a Second Language at the university level in Lebanon, USA and Kuwait. We came back to the USA in 1990 after the first Gulf War and I have beeen teaching at a high school in Falls Church, VA eversince. Currently, I teach ESOL and Arabic at our high school.

While living in the Middle East I had the chance to visit most of the Arab countries, and Europe but I have never traveled to Africa other than Egypt, so this is my dream trip to start exploring the North African Arab countries. I have three children, Yusef 32, Badria 30, and Hessa 28; they all live in the USA but we regularly go back and visit family and friends in the Middle East.

Paula Watts Introduction

Hello Everyone,

I have thoroughly enjoyed reading everyone's introductions thus far. I would also like to add that I am very excited about this trip. I am very much interested in the spiritual side of Islam; therefore, I found the prospect of attending an authentic Sufi dhikir to be very intriguing. Though I generally tell people this is my first trip to Morocco, it really is not. When I was very young, my father was in the Navy and our family lived in Sicily for three years. On the way back to the States, we stopped in "French Morocco" ( as it was called then) for about a week. Though I was no more than three and 1/2 years old, I remember the experience quite vividly. I distinctly remember looking out of our ground level hotel window and watching a Muslim lady dressed in traditional clothes (her face was also covered) walking down the street. I was completely mesmorized! I wanted to say something, but the only thing my young mind could come up with was, "Hi, Boogeyman lady!" Then I waved to her. To my surprise, she waved back. This is one of the stories my father tells over and over at family gatherings.

I am originally from the Jersey Shore. I was born on the famous Lakehurst Naval Air Base. When I graduated from high school in the late 70's, I left to attend Georgetown. It seems that I got a bit restless and put my formal education on hold. I began to work with grassroots organizations and somehow ended up teaching at the Islamic Saudi Academy in Fairfax for 13 years. Another one of our Moroccan group members was my co-worker (Tammy Chincheck). It was while working there that I began to travel extensively. Students' parents, as well as teachers, would invite me to go home with them during vacations...and since I was single I did not say no! I was able to travel to Yemen, Palestine, Egypt, Jordan, Kuwait and Saudi Arabia. Those were wonderful times.

Currently, I am the ESL dept. chair at Wakefield High School in Arlington, VA. I teach beginning and advanced Language Arts. The majority of our students are Spanish-speaking. However, lately we have been getting more and more Arabic speaking students...mainly Iraqi and Moroccan. Working with Spanish speaking students has prompted me to travel and study extensively throughout Mexico and Central America. I just got back on Wednesday from El Salvador and Honduras. I do speak fluent Spanish and decent Portuguese. I can get by with Gulf Arabic, but unfortunately, I hear it will not help me in Morocco.

Oh, I finally "found myself" and got an undergraduate degree in Spanish. I also have a Masters in ESL from George Mason. My husband is an administrator of a middle school for emotionally disturbed children in Fairfax County, VA.

Brad Hertz Introduction

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Hi Everyone,
I am sorry to have missed the orientations, but I have been trying to rent all the rooms in my houses near the University of Utah before the trip. I can hardly wait for this trip. I visited Morocco back in the 80's and loved it. The main purpose of this trip for me is to gain a much deeper understanding of Islam. I hope to make enduring friendships with you and some Moroccan people. I retire from teaching next year. My dream after retirement is to serve in some useful capacity in an Arab society (volunteer) and try to help in a small way to break down the barriers that the post 9-11 era has created. All of us can be a powerful force for change on this trip. Understanding and accepting each other (different cultures) can indeed lead to more peace in this world. I do speak some Arabic (not good!). I hope to have lots of fun in the markets and streets of Morocco talking to the people.

I am not a big shopper (my wife is), but I am a great barginer and volunteer to help you get a fair price for the stuff you want to buy. I look forward to meeting you and getting to know you soon.

Ted Eagles Introduction

Dear All,

I come to this trip with long-standing interest -- though little travel -- in the Middle East and with lifelong interest in international and security affairs. I taught European, and occasionally other, history at St. Albans School for 23 years before I retired in 2000. It turned out, I'm glad to say, I didn't really retire, as I carry on with a few projects and, most especially, teach the economic electives at the school. Once upon a time I graduated from Amherst College (1958) and took an M.A. at Princeton. My general sense of things is that Americans need desperately and respectfully to learn of the worlds beyond our borders, and I admire the strong efforts of CCAS and Global LAB to encourage that.

Lena Seikaly Introduction

Hi, everyone - this is Lena Seikaly (Zeina's daughter). It was so nice getting to know some of you last week, and am excited to travel with all of you on Sunday! I am a classical and jazz vocalist, and I work as a freelance performer and voice instructor in the D.C. metropolitan area. I just graduated from the University of Maryland, where I majored in classical voice performance (at the School of Music). I have also always had a strong interest in jazz vocals, and tend to gravitate more towards jazz on a working basis. I sing with about six bands in the D.C. area (including two of my own groups), and perform regularly at restaurants, jazz clubs, private functions, and festivals here and abroad. I am currently working on my first jazz album, which I intend to have completed by the end of this year. I hope to move to New York soon, and try to establish myself in the esteemed jazz community there.

As an educator, I teach private voice lessons at the International School of Music in Bethesda, MD - there, my students range in age from nine-years-old to adult. I have found teaching music to children, primarily, to be a highly
rewarding - and necessary - aspect of being a musician; it is wonderful to be able to impart the joy of music to young minds, and elemental to continuing the tradition in future generations.

I look forward to seeing you all!

Linda Crichlow White Introduction

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I started my teaching career in Brooklyn, NY, teaching middle school home economics (foods and nutrition), often known as just "cooking" and taught clothing construction to adults in evening high school. Later taught Foods and Nutrition for many years at Eastern Senior High in Wash., DC. After years of classroom teaching, I went back to school for a second Masters--this time in Library Science from Catholic University and am about to begin my 5th year as School Library Media Specialist in Montgomery County this year.

My interest in travel--especially in Africa travel--was whetted years ago when, as an undergraduate, I traveled to Ghana with Operation Crossroads Africa. Later, I served as the Washington Representative for Crossroads,
arranging professional appointments and home hospitality for Africans visiting with the African Leaders Program.
I continue to volunteer with the Operation Crossroads Africa DC Alumni Association which raises scholarships that enable others to participate with Crossroads. Operationcrossroadsafrica.org. Maybe some of you would like to
participate some day or know others who would like to travel to Africa with Crossroads--a 6-week summer experience!

I have traveled to over 12 African countries--most recently to South Africa, in 2006.

My first Masters degree required a thesis--titled Traditional Textiles in Nepal--for which I traveled to Nepal and India. I continue to be interested in textiles and clothing around the world and am excited about seeing textiles and clothing of Morocco first hand.

In addition to food and clothing and all the other things, I'm looking forward to putting my foot in the Mediterranean!

Actually I'm hoping to really swim! I have been married for 30+ years--to a librarian--and have 2 children--a
daughter 24 and a son soon to be 26.

Arjunia Oakley Introduction

Hello,

I am very excited about this trip and look forward to getting to know everyone. I am Arjunia Oakley. I am Palestinian but was born in Amman, Jordan. My parents immigrated to the US when I was 2 years old. At that
time, the push in education was to concentrate on one language so my parents were encouraged by the schools (that my older siblings were attending) NOT to teach me to speak Arabic. Fortunately, they continuted to speak Arabic at home and with family. As a result, I learned to understand Arabic but not to speak Arabic and my Arabic language skills are limited.

I have been teaching in Montgomery County Public Schools for 5 years. I am a Special education teacher and have taught primarily Math and Reading/Language Arts in a general education and self-contained classrooms. I started in elementary school, and moved to Middle school where I was able to co-teach World Studies in addition to Reading. My current assignment is in a High school where I will co-teach English, and teach a reading intervention program.

I received an undergraduate degree in Psychology from the University of Maryland and a Masters degree in Education from Johns Hopkins University. I love working in Special education but hate the paperwork. I hope to eventually go into teacher training/education either within MCPS or elsewhere. I love to read, take long walks and practice yoga. I am married to a Jazz musician, so I also love going out to hear local artists play.

Samuel J. Richards Introduction

This fall I will begin my fifth year teaching in Wicomico County, Maryland at Pittsville Elementary/Middle School. My students are drawn from four small towns and the countryside in between. I teach World History to every 8th grader in the building and also team teach a Reading/Language Arts class. In addition to my duties at Pittsville, I teach one section of "World History since 1500" at Salisbury University in the evening.

I am a native of a small coal town in the hills of southwestern Pennsylvania (south of Pittsburgh). My parents and younger brother still live there. I did my undergraduate work in social studies/history at Indiana University of Pennsylvania (IUP) and later finished an M.A., history, at Salisbury University here on the shore. I have been pretty fortunate to experience travel through work. I completed part of my student-teaching in suburban London and studied at the University of Nottingham in summer 2006 as part of a National Endowment for the Humanities teacher seminar.

When I'm not working, I enjoy reading, hiking, running, and cycling. Oh, and don't forget the occasional chance to sit on the beach!

Harriet Couture Introduction

I am Harriet Couture, art teacher, recently retired and returned to teaching part time. I taught 40 years and found it too difficult to give up. I've taught in 5 US states and also in Germany, Japan, Greece, and Bermuda while being married to a career air force dentist. Paul and I raised 4 children who were born along the way. I am from York. PA. and went to a number of schools- earning my Master's from University of Alaska while stationed there in the early 70's. Being an art teacher, I work in many mediums but my favorite is watercolor. I also like to sew, dance and bake, (especially desserts).

You all are a great group of interesting and fun traveling companions and it's wonderful that some of you speak Arabic.

Zeina Azzam Seikaly Introduction

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As Director of Educational Outreach at the Center for Contemporary Arab Studies, Georgetown University, I manage a program that supports and strengthens the teaching of K-12 educators about the Arab world and Islam. I have been in this position at Georgetown since 1994. I hold an M.A. in Sociology from George Mason University and a B.A. in Psychology from Vassar College. I am a native Arabic speaker (my family is Palestinian; we immigrated to the U.S. from Lebanon when I was 10) and have studied French and Spanish. In addition to languages, my interests include reading, cooking and baking, traveling and learning about other cultures, dabbling in poetry, and taking in artistic exhibits and musical performances (especially Arabic music and jazz). I am married and have two children: Lena (22) and Mark (18).

July 23, 2008

Heavy Metal Islam

An interesting piece from the Sunday Book Review of The New York Times.
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July 20, 2008
Rock the Casbah
By HOWARD HAMPTON

HEAVY METAL ISLAM

Rock, Resistance, and the Struggle for the Soul of Islam.
By Mark LeVine.
Illustrated. 296 pp. Three Rivers Press. Paper, $13.95.

This professor of Middle Eastern history walks into a bar in Fez, Morocco — right from the get-go, Mark LeVine’s “Heavy Metal Islam: Rock, Resistance, and the Struggle for the Soul of Islam” is not your typical dry academic slog. (Did I mention he’s also a longhaired Jewish rock guitarist whose bio lists gigs with Mick Jagger and Dr. John?) So when somebody in that hotel bar starts talking up the local punk and metal scenes, an incredulous LeVine is hooked. “There are Muslim punks? In Morocco?” Quicker than you can whistle “Rock the Casbah,” he’s on the trail of Western-influenced underground music movements that have blossomed under authoritarian regimes across the Middle East and North Africa.

Going to meet the seven-string guitarist Marz of Hate Suffocation, a Cairo band, LeVine confesses sheepishly, “I still couldn’t tell the difference between death, doom, black, melodic, symphonic, grind-core, hard-core, thrash and half a dozen other styles.” (Marz explains that his group plays a cross between death and black metal: “But it’s not blackened death metal!”) Despite a certain amount of scholarly dogma that goes with the territory — here any combination of “neoliberal” and “globalization” is as ominous an epithet as Black Sabbath’s “War Pigs” — “Heavy Metal Islam” offers the hit-and-run (as well as hit-and-miss) pleasures of a lively road trip. Practicing a first-person brand of shuttle diplomacy as he moves between countries and cultures, musicians and Islamic activists, LeVine manages to unpack enough cross-cultural incongruities to mount his own mosh pit follow-up to “You Don’t Mess With the Zohan.”

An ex-Mossad hairdresser is scarcely more anomalous than disheveled Moroccan riot grrrls, virtuoso Egyptian metalheads, Lebanese “muhajababes” (young women wearing full head scarves, army fatigues, tight black T-shirts and Hezbollah wristbands), Tupac-influenced Palestinian M.C.’s, “the Israeli Oriental death-doom metal band Orphaned Land” (complete with a devoted Arab following) and rapt Iranian Iron Maiden acolytes. A participatory, hands-on guy, LeVine not only meets and eats with Muslim headbangers, he jams with them in apartments, studios and outdoor festivals, taking in the food and the noise and the people as if it were all a movable metal feast.

Eagerly seizing on the stereotype-busting possibilities of “an 18-year-old from Casablanca with spiked hair, or a 20-year-old from Dubai wearing goth makeup,” LeVine would like us to see them as the faces of an emerging Muslim world, potentially a much less monochromatic place than the one represented on TV by the usual “Death to America” brigades. “Heavy Metal Islam” turns the notion of irreconcilable differences between Islam and the West on its head, appealing to the universality of youth culture as “a model for communication and cooperation” in the Internet age. LeVine reckons the likes of Metallica and Slayer provide a brute lingua franca that knows no borders, opening up breathing room in cloistered societies, gradually undermining rigid belief systems — a benign, bottom-up brand of globalization as opposed to the ruthless corporate or state-sponsored kind.

It’s that old-time Lennon/Bono rock idealism reimagined for a post-Cannibal Corpse world, and that’s winning on a case-by-case basis. In lands where playing “satanic” music or even attending semi-clandestine concerts can get you thrown in jail (actually charged with things like “shaking the foundations of Islam”), there’s something truly heartening about the Moroccan thrash girls Mystik Moods striving to break through centuries-old sexist taboos, or Hate Suffocation trying to carve out a niche to play music and “be left alone by both the government and society.” In theocratic Iran, when Arthimoth’s leader wears a T-shirt reading “Your God Is Dead,” he’s risking a fate much worse than being suspended from school or getting dirty looks at the mall.

“Heavy Metal Islam” gets trapped by its good intentions whenever it attempts to shoehorn the headbangers’ intransigence into preconceived political slots. Metal music, however you parse it, is dystopian in the extreme: hyper-aggressively embracing the death instinct, regimented chaos, deliriously fetishized morbidity. Call it cathartic, sure, even a way of keeping sane in an insane world (as one performer here says, “We play heavy metal because our lives are heavy metal”), but don’t confuse it with “If I Had a Hammer.” Unless it’s a hammer of the nihilist gods aimed at your forehead — not to hammer out justice or a warning or “the common struggle for democracy and economic equality,” but to crack your skull open, scrape out your pulverized brains and feed them to the wolverines.

Even though these antisocial bands want no part of hard-liners like the mystical Justice and Spirituality Association in Morocco or the spooky Muslim Brotherhood in Egypt (and the disdain is often mutual), LeVine thinks if they could all put aside their petty differences and work together, they could start a domino effect in the Middle East like the one that toppled the Eastern bloc. (He’s like the straight arrow in comic books who’d invariably look around at the scene of Armageddon and say with a sigh, “If only we could have harnessed their mutant energy for goodness.”) The punch line of LeVine’s informative, valuable and moderately mad book is twofold: this conscientious anti-imperialist has written a swell tract in favor of large-scale cultural imperialism — a Marshall Amps Plan — and his program is undoubtedly the first to enlist death metal as the spearhead of a new Peace Corps(e).

Howard Hampton is the author of “Born in Flames: Termite Dreams, Dialectical Fairy Tales, and Pop Apocalypses.”


July 19, 2008

Morocco's European Campaign of Moderate Islam

Morocco sends moderate Muslim preachers to Europe

RABAT, Morocco (AP) — Morocco plans to send scores of moderate Muslim preachers to Europe during the holy month of Ramadan to help fight extremism in the Moroccan community abroad, the ministry for religious affairs said Thursday.

The government will send 167 men and nine women preachers to address Moroccan immigrants during Ramadan, which runs during September this year. Muslims traditionally fast and attend sermons at mosques during the holy month.

The preachers are instructed to "answer the religious needs of the Moroccan community abroad, to protect it from any speeches of extremism or irregular nature, and to shelter it from extremism and fanaticism," said a statement from the religious affairs ministry in Rabat, the Moroccan capital.

Abdellatif Begdouri Achkari, the religious affairs minister's chief of staff, said Morocco has been sending preachers to minister to expatriates for many years but hand-picked the latest batch to make sure they specifically address extremism.

"The needs of the Moroccan community abroad may vary from one community to another, and these needs evolve with time," Achkari told The Associated Press.

Islam is Morocco's state religion and King Mohammed VI is officially "the commander of the believers."

But the country's official, moderate practice has faced a growing wave of extremism in recent years. Security officials have voiced concerns about terrorist links among Moroccans and dual Moroccan-European citizens. Suicide bombers killed dozens of people in attacks in Casablanca in May 2003.

The religious affairs ministry said 100 preachers would go to France and Belgium, while Italy and Germany would get 10 each, and Spain and the Netherlands seven. The rest will head to Scandinavia and Britain, while one preacher will go to Canada.

Strict criteria were applied in choosing the candidates. Besides being well-versed in the Quran and knowledgeable about theology, they must be "known for their good reputation, devout beliefs and high moral standards," the ministry said.

There are an estimated 3.3 million Moroccans living abroad, 10 percent of the total Moroccan population. Most live in Spain, France and Belgium or the Netherlands.

July 18, 2008

Pre-Departure Orientation #2

Our second pre-departure orientation was held today at Georgetown's Center for Contemporary Arab Studies, and we were privileged to receive a rich medley of information on Morocco from various expert sources: Mr. Houcine Rhazoui, Political Counsellor at the Embassy of the Kingdom of Morocco; Professor Osama Abi-Mershed from the Department of History at Georgetown University; and Professor I. William Zartman--the "Father of North African Studies"--from the Nitze School of Advanced International Studies (SAIS) at Johns Hopkins University.

Topics covered included: a general overview of contemporary Moroccan socieity; the Amazighs (Berbers); the various reforms being undertaken by King Mohamed VI; the centuries-long history of the monarchy; the colonial period and the little-known, heroic Riffian resistance; the Western Sahara issue; foreign relations; Islam in Morocco and the role of saints and brotherhoods; and an overview of its multi-party system (as in 32 parties). Many thanks to Zeina for assembling this invaluable day of learning and insight. Without a doubt, we are better prepared to experience Morocco on multiple levels in light of this new knowledge. The delicious lunch from Marrakesh Palace only served to get us further in the mood. T minus 9 days and counting.

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Houcine Rhazoui, Political Counsellor from the Moroccan Embassy, outlines the vast socio-political initiatives being implemented by King Mohamed VI

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Professor Abi-Mershed introduces Ahmed el Raisuni, Rif Ruffian to many, Rif Robin Hood to some, in the early 1900s. el Raisuni was portrayed by Sean Connery in the film "The Wind & The Lion"

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Professor Zartman shares an ironic laugh on how quickly US critics want Morocco to reform