Artistic Traditions of Amdo, Summer 2007

Galen and Ngakpa friend in Amdo, Tibet

Nihao, Tashi Delek, and Demo-

Just a few of the local greetings which I'd like to offer you as I write today from the town of Repkong, the very place where we'll spend several weeks together this summer. I'm here meeting many of the local craftsman with whom we'll be studying the legendary artistic traditions from this cultural center of the Tibetan world. Over endless cups of tea I've also been getting to know the local Amdo-wa families who are all very eager to meet and host us in just over two months from now.

I have spent my time over the past week putting pieces in place for this exciting program, and in addition to meeting the local Tibetan artists and welcoming and gracious grandmothers, I've been collaborating with the experienced guides, educators, and translators with whom we'll be working. We have put quite a team together, and I must let you know how very eager everyone is here in Repkong and Gomar to meet and work with all of you, and they can't wait for our arrival in early July.

As we venture into what for many of you might initially feel like a real unknown, you will have the opportunity to visit monasteries and talk with monks aged eight to eighty, as well as engage local families and learn the simplicity of rural life. We will be the subject of intense interest and relentless attention, and I can assure you that the people we meet will be equally (if not somehow more) curious of us than we are of them. While laughing with toothless Grandmothers on long train-rides and drinking salty butter tea in cramped quarters with little children stealing stares at us, we’ll discover how quickly we are received not as strangers but as friends.

Our pilgrimage will begin as soon as we leave home, and by traveling through the Tibetan regions of modern-day China we’ll come to understand how dynamic and complex this region is today, and has truly always been. Visiting the foundations of imperial Beijing and riding the new and controversial rail-line to Lhasa will plunge us into the complex relationship that China and Tibet struggle within. Exploring Lhasa's Jokhang Temple and walking the Barkhor circuit will unite us with other pilgrims and make us participants in their liturgy. Studying with accomplished artists here in Repkong and living with friendly families in the neighboring village of Gomar will quickly make us close members of a community which maintains traditions many centuries old.

In this way, we will also experience the wonder and joy of simple living. By streamlining our material needs, we’ll carry virtually all of our possessions in a backpack (personally, my favorite way to live). We will come to know this beauty of simplicity, realizing it ourselves and seeing it everywhere around us, as we live amongst people whose spiritual richness is often in inverse relation to their worldly goods. It sometimes requires being removed from home to actually gain a perspective on how much we have, and how much of it we really don’t need, and how less truly can be more.

As international students, you will have the unique opportunity not only to learn yourself, but to educate the many people with whom we interact, many who have very little honest understanding of our country. The experiential education of this journey will open our eyes to new lifestyles and traditions, and will reciprocally provide the wonderful people we meet a perspective into who we are as Americans, and what that means (which I personally believe is quite different from the popular media images that people see around the world).

Finally, please let me tell you a little about myself and how this very program came to be. I first traveled in the Amdo region one year ago, making pilgrimage to the most sacred mountain of the region, Amnye Machen, with a dear friend. After making the week-long circumambulatory walk around the Machen massif (a traditional and meritorious act in the Tibetan tradition), I traveled here to Repkong, having heard of the legendary painting schools in the valley. Along the way I also visited some of the significant and remote monasteries which we will spend time at this summer. The opportunity to study with the masterful artists and incredibly friendly people here led me to consider the prospect of a collaborative Global-LAB program which would immerse western students in the rich traditions of this local culture, learning ancient skills while living with the artisans themselves. And so now here we are preparing to embark on this very program, one which I am confident will be not only a true success, but a learning experience and exchange for all parties involved that will cultivate both relationships and skills across all lines of language, nationality, and religion. In fact, we'll soon see that these lines really do not exist at all, as they immediately become blurred and then erased with each day that we spend together.

As far as what I was doing here last summer, in a rather remote area on the northern slope of the Himalaya in Central Asia, goes back a number of years. A little biography: I first learned of (and immediately wanted to visit) the Himalaya while in high school, having seen a family friend’s slide-show of a climb he had guided in Nepal. As I read some books on the philosophical and religious traditions of India, Tibet, and China, my interest grew exponentially. At Middlebury College in Vermont I furtherexplored the traditions of eastern thought and read a little more about the esoteric dimensions of Tibetan Buddhism. Finally, it was during my junior year of college in 1998-99 that I was able to go and study in Kathmandu, Nepal with the University of Wisconsin, focusing my attention on the places and practice of pilgrimage in the Tibetan tradition as well as the iconographical pantheon of Tibetan Buddhism and Bon (the ancient religion of Tibet). I first visited Central Tibet at that time, doing research on a uniquely Bon-po pilgrimage mountain in a remote (and restricted) area north-east of Lhasa called Kyungpo. That project ended under unfortunate circumstances due to complications with the regional Chinese authorities and my lack of proper travel documents, but the pilgrimage had merely begun.

And I have continued my pilgrimage in Tibet and the greater Himalalya just about every year since then, to walk, to sit, to learn, to teach, to work, to play, and to explore. More recently over the past couple of years I have developed and led summer study-abroad programs in Kham, Tibet as well as Global LAB’s ‘From Brahma to Buddha’ fall semester programs in India. I have been privileged and excited to develop this Artistic Traditions of Amdo for Pratt and Global LAB, and greatly look forward to our time together which begins in just two months.

Each time I return to this part of the world I learn about a new valley, a distant mountain, an ancient monastery that calls for a visit, and so the cycle goes. You will soon walk into this world, and I believe that it will be but an initial step along a lifelong journey of inquiry and discovery.

I’m sure you have many questions about our trip; I know I do. And it can be intimidating trying to prepare for such an undertaking. Please read what you can about the traditions, both political and artistic, about Tibet and China, and take the time to view a film or two as well. We have a suggested reading and viewing list posted on the blog, and there is much more out there that I'd be happy to recommend as well. Finally, be it a question about gear (pack super-light) or a ‘hello, how’s it going,’ you can reach me anytime at galen@global-lab.org

I look forward to hearing from you and, moreover, meeting in New York in two months.

All the best and Demo-ah

Galen

Posted by Global LAB at 3:16 PM | Permalink

Please note this itinerary is subject to change based upon group interest, health and safety issues, and other factors beyond Global LAB's control. Any significant itinerary alterations will be posted on this website.

June 27th
Depart USA

June 28th
Arrive in Beijing at 6:00 PM, meet our local guide, Yezi, and transfer to hotel

June 29th
Morning Mandarin language primer and day in Beijing for general sightseeing and museum tours, including Tiananmen Square, the Forbidden City, the National Art Museum of China and Beijing Art Gallery/City Museum, as well Wutung neighborhoods nearby our hotel and sample some of the cuisine for which Beijing is famous.

June 30th
Today we will visit the center of the contemporary art scene in modern China, the 798 IT district (the Chelsea of Beijing). We will have the day to visit many of the galleries that are located in and around the historical Dongbianmen Watchtower, including the famous Red Gate Gallery. We should also have an opportunity to meet local Chinese art students at the Central Academy of Fine Arts. We will then make an evening departure for Lhasa by train (July 1 is the first anniversary of this train's maiden voyage).

July 1st
Ride the rails through the day with an introduction to Tibetan language (Lhasa dialect) and discreet discussion of Chinese and Tibetan political history amidst the audio propaganda featured on the train. While traversing the outstanding geography of the Qinghai-Tibetan plateau, we will take meals and sleep on the train as we travel 4064km between Beijing and Lhasa.

July 2nd
Arrive in Lhasa (approximately 48 hours after departing Beijing) and transfer to hotel near the famous Ramoche Temple in central Lhasa.

July 3rd
The first day in Lhasa will be relaxed in order to allow for proper acclimitization. We will meet with our local guide, Nyima in the morning, and from mid-day through the afternoon visit the Tibet Museum and Jokhang Temple, the holiest of all Tibetan holies. We will have much of the afternoon to walk the Barkhor circuit, the pedestrian mall which circles the Jokhang and is the focal point for pilgrims, traders, tourists, and Tibetan locals in central Lhasa. After dinner we will have a lecture/discussion with Nyima (a former monk) on Tibetan Buddhism.

July 4th
In the morning we will visit the legendary and massive Potala Palace, the historical winter residence of the Dalai Lamas and house of the Tibetan Kashag, or central government. After lunch we will pay a short visit to the Gedun Choephel Artists’ Guild in order to get acquainted with the excellent and innovative work being produced by the local members of this initiative. We will then visit a local NGO, Dropenling, and discuss their efforts in preserving traditional handicrafts amongst the dynamic of modern development with Director and member of Global LAB’s advisory board: Claire Burkert. We will also try to schedule a field visit to one of the villages in which Dropenling sponsors work ranging from traditional weaving practices to modern leather working.

July 5th
This morning we will drive several hours to Gyangtse in order to visit Kunbum Gonpa and the important Palkhor Chorten, or else Dratang and Samye to see the exceptional temple complexes there. In the afternoon students will have free time to visit several of the local art galleries, painting studios, and thanka workshops. In the evening, interested Pratt students can join local Tibetan students for an evening of English language discussion and cultural exchange at the local Hope Corner.

July 6th
In the morning we will have free time to stroll the Barkhor as well as visit some of the temples near the city center, including Ramoche Lhakhang and Gyurme Tantric College. We may also have the opportunity to visit Tibet University's Department of Fine Arts. In the afternoon we will return to the Gedun Choephel Artists' Guild and have a discussion with Leigh Miller Sangster about the contemporary art movement in Lhasa. We will also meet and talk with founding members of the Guild and faculty at Tibet University's Department of Fine Arts, Tsewang Tashi and/or Gade.

July 7th
We will depart Lhasa for Xining (by plane), arriving in Xining (Tibetan: Zilang) in early afternoon. We will transfer to our hotel and meet our local guides and assistants, Kunchuk Kyab and Dorje Palmo (Pumo) and make an afternoon tour of the Great Mosque of Xining (center of worship for this city's large Muslim population) as well as the outdoor bazaars, including the famous Night Market. We will have an afternoon lecture with Professor Kevin Stuart of Qinghai Normal University on the diverse ethnicities and language traditions of the Amdo region in Qinghai province, specifically in regards to the unique Mongur (Mongolian) traditions of the Repkong Valley. (Professor Stuart is also an expert of the Repkong Laru Festival)

July 8th
This morning we will visit Kunbum Gonpa, founded during the 16th century by Master Tsundril Rinchen and one of the six largest Gelukpa Gonpas in Tibet (the big six also include Sera and Labrang Gonpas, both of which we'll see during the course of the trip). After lunch we will drive to Martsangtrak Gonpa, one hour south of Xining. One of the oldest monasteries in this region (Do-Kham), it is also historically significant in that it was founded by Lachen Gonpa Ralse during the late 9th century following the Tibetan King Langtarma's viscious persecution of Buddhism in central Tibet (U-Tsang). As such, it was established in an effort to maintain the Dharma traditions which had been largely eradicated in other regions of Tibet. After returning to Xining in the late afternoon, we will contrast our day’s visit to the large, Gelukpa monasteries with an evening discussion on non-monastic Tibetan Buddhist practice, namely that of the ngak-pa tradition, with Wuqi and Humchin, co-founders of the local Ngak-mang Institute.

July 9th
Leaving Xining in the morning drive 2-3 hours to Repkong along the spectacularly wide Yellow River gorge before entering the narrow and fertile Rongpo gorge. We will transfer to the China Telecom Hotel and have the afternoon free to explore Repkong town center, visit some thanka-painting and metal-smithing workshops (including that of the Tsuntar Jel family), as well as watch (and join) the evening dances in the town square.

July 10th
We will have a morning Amdo dialect language lesson before making the short drive (10 minutes) to Gomar village, where we will meet homestay families. This afternoon we will visit the local Gomar Gonpa, a powerful branch monastery of Riwong Gonchen Gonpa, as well as visit the Sengeshong Mango/Wutun monastery and painting school across the valley (20-30 minute walk). There we will have a talk with the legendary master painter, Nyungbum, about the history and practice of thangka. We will also meet local stone- and wood-carvers, weavers, tailors, and sculptors this afternoon, before spending our first night with homestay families.

July 11th-July 15th
Today and for the following four days we will have a morning meditation class (7:30-8:30 AM, optional), followed by Amdo Tibetan language class (9-10 AM). Afterwards, we will have the daily instruction periods for 2-3 hours with local artists in the medium of each students' choice. The afternoons will be generally free for independent art practice, exploration of the nearby villages, visits to Repkong center for email and shopping, as well as experimentation with different or alternative artistic styles (not under the tutelage of local masters). We will stay with local families for this time, sleeping and eating in their homes, and will also participate in a local, service-oriented volunteer project which will be determined by the needs of the local community.

July 16th
After five days in Gomar we will take a two-day trip to the nearby Khamra National Park. After making a short drive to the Park we will take a local boat across the Yellow River. From there we will walk half an hour to the important Namzong nunnery, one of the few large and isolated nunneries in Tibet. We will stay overnight at the nunnery.

July 17th
The following day we will do a little trek-training and make a short hike up the nearby Zamzongtse mountain for tremendous views of the Repkong Valley. After lunch, we will continue our hike to the Namzong National Park where we will stay overnight either in a guest house or in Pumo’s village.

July 18th
This morning we will drive back to Gomar village and have the afternoon to resume art projects and return to family homes.

July 19th-22nd
We will continue our artistic studies for the following four days, as well as our homestay arrangements, with daily schedules like those above according to July 11-15.

July 23rd
This morning we will say goodbye (for the time-being) to our homestay families and drive 5 hours across the nomadic regions of the Amdo grasslands to the village of Hor and the important Terton Chogar Gonpa. After visiting the local Nyingma monastery and viewing the astounding stone-carving work in the massive mani wall above the temple (which contains the entire Buddhist canon, the Kangyur and Tengur, carved in slate), we will meet some of the resident artists, including the famous master, Gonpo Tsetan. We might also have the chance to meet some of the resident tokden ngakpas, modern-day Tibetan yogi-ascetics who are non-monastic Buddhist practitioners often identified by the wraps of dreadlocks atop their head. We will stay at a local, simple guesthouse for the night.

July 24th
This morning we will drive 7-8 hours to Tsue, where we will visit the famous Milarepa temple, Tsogen Gedun Choling. This thirteen-story complex is home to much of the finest artwork in modern-day Tibet, and was recently re-built to replace the ancient temple which was destroyed during the Chinese Cultural Revolution (1966-76). It is a replica of the nine-story temple, Sekhur Gutok, that the legendary Tibetan mystic, Milarepa, built in honor of his teacher, Marpa's, son and in the words of Gyurme Dorje “ranks amoung the greatest of modern temples of Tibet for its exquisite design and art” In Tsue we will stay at a local hotel.

July 25th
In the morning we will continue our crossing of the spectacular Amdo grasslands while driving 2 hours to Labrang. Here we will visit the many temples and centers of monastic study at the enormous Labrang Monastery (another one of the six largest Gelukpa Gonpas in Tibet). (Labrang is also called Xiahe ). Here we will stay in a hotel.

July 26th-30th
Today we will commence our trek to Repkong, a five-day journey of moderate rigor that will have us walking five-six hours per day through the rolling hills of central Amdo. We will generally start the day early with a hearty breakfast, walk until mid-day and then break for our packed-lunch, and then walk a couple more hours in the afternoon(before potential rains tend to arrive). The afternoons will mostly be open around camp, where we will often pitch our tents in the vicinity of the local nomadic families that spend the summer months in this high country with their herds of yak and sheep. We will carry only light day-packs ourselves, and have the bulk of our gear carried by horse or yak driven by our support team of one guide and several cooks and kitchen-aides. We should return to Repkong by foot mid-day on July 30th and can return to either a hotel in the town center or our homestays in Gomar. The afternoon will be free to get cleaned-up, communicate with family and friends back home, and simply relax. The Laru festival will have begun one day before, so we can also visit the festivities in whichever village hosts the events this day.

July 31st-Aug 1st
We will spend these two days attending the unique and local Laru festival, the annual event which combines ancient Bon-po traditions(sometimes referred to as 'shamanistic') with those of modern and monastic Gelukpa Tibetan Buddhist practices. The festival occurs in a different village each of its ten days, when, respectively, local men enter trances in order to act the oracle for village consultations with the local dieites, or 'lha,' and monastic dances and puja rituals take place amidst the monastery grounds. We will stay either with our homestay familes or in a hotel in Repkong center during this time.

Aug 2nd
After seeing a morning's worth of this day's Luru festival, we will eat lunch and then return to Xining. In the evening we will have dinner at friend's local and exquisite Tibetan restaurant, which includes a cultural performance of traditional Tibetan song and dance. Afterwards, those who are interested can take to the famous public saunas of Xining, an experience not to be missed. We will stay at a local hotel.

Aug 3rd
We will depart Xining for Beijing on Train T28 at 9:39 AM, eating and sleeping on-board for the next 26 hours.

Aug 4th
We will arrive in Beijing in late morning, transfer to our hotel, and have the afternoon free for final interests including shopping and limited sightseeing. We'll then have a festive final meal together on this the last night of our program in Tibet and China.

Aug 5th
Depart Beijing in early afternoon for return to USA.

Posted by Global LAB at 7:42 PM | Permalink