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June 2, 2007

Promoting Education and Hope for Girls in Morocco

Everyone might find the following UNICEF press release of interest in the wake of Princess Lalla Rania's reception of Queen Rania of Jordan. Both have sponsored increasing efforts to eradicate child labor and offer more educational opportunities for children--especially girls. As we walk through the medinas , take note of the various roles children play and the attitudes they project...Who knows, maybe we'll stumble upon the Red Crescent school in Fes and partake in a SCREAM activity of our own:

Queen Rania Visits UNICEF Projects in Morocco, Highlights Achievements in Child Welfare
FEZ/MOROCCO, 1 June 2007 - As part of her mandate as UNICEF's first Eminent Advocate for Children, Her Majesty Queen Rania Al Abdullah visited two UNICEF supported projects in Fez, with Lalla Salma of Morocco, to highlight the country's efforts in combating child labor and promoting education for all.

After their visit Queen Rania said, "In many ways, education is a 'social vaccine' for girls it immunizes against untimely death, poverty, and unemployment and helps them build healthy, hopeful futures."

To highlight the country's achievements in reintegrating girls into the school system, Queen Rania and Lalla Salma visited a UNICEF supported primary school where they met girls who were formerly working in carpet weaving workshops. The girls joined their royal guests for a frank discussion where they described the conditions under which they worked, the change in their lives since being integrated into the school, and their hopes for the future.

Many of the girls spoke of long working hours, most of which they spent standing and without provision of food or water, other than that which they managed to bring with them from their homes. Stories of abuse were told, but the smiles on the girls' faces expressed their joy at being enrolled in school.

"I do miss my friends [from the workshop]," said one 12 year-old-girl, "but I am so happy to be in school because now we're taught to read and write and we get to play with our friends – not work."

The Moroccan Government supported by UNICEF, and the International Labor Organization (ILO)/ International Program for the Elimination of Child Labor (IPEC) continues to play an integral role in removing young girls from harsh working conditions. Fatima, one of the social workers who works with UNICEF, the ILO/ IPEC, joined the discussion to detail how she managed to get many girls back into school.

"We go to the workshops and factories and try to identify the girls that are just too young to be working," she said, "then we speak with the people in charge and broach the subject with them… we explain why the girls shouldn't be working and then we enroll them in schools close to their homes."

In Morocco, primary school enrolment increased from 72 per cent, in 1999, to 86 per cent, in 2004. The country is also working towards achieving gender parity, and the gap between boys' and girls' education decreased to 6 per cent during that same period. As per the Millennium Development Goals, Morocco is on track to achieve universal primary education by 2015.

"I'm delighted that Morocco, like Jordan, is forging ahead in its efforts to educate girls. A decade ago, primary girls' enrollment in Morocco was under 50 percent. It is greater than 80 percent today," said the Queen.

The Moroccan National Plan of Action for Children, adopted in 2006, is steadily decreasing the number of working children and campaigning to change cultural attitudes and practices.

Despite the fact that education is compulsory until the age of 15 and employment of children under 15 is prohibited in Morocco, over a million children are out of school, the majority of which are girls, and 600 000 children are working.

Although most of the girls who joined Queen Rania and Lalla Salma have lost valuable years of schooling, all of them expressed keen hopes for the future. When asked what they want to do when they grow up, most answered that they would like to study to become physicians. "I'll tell you why," said one 9 year-old-girl, "because I want to be able to help people."

The Government of Morocco, alongside partners such as UNICEF, has taken an innovative and bold approach in tackling the problem of child labor by offering non-formal educational opportunities. Non-formal education, here, serves as an entry point for a return to full time education.

To that end, earlier in the day, Queen Rania and Lalla Salma visited the Moroccan Red Crescent Non-Formal Education Center where a number of enthusiastic teenage girls, who were taking part in a SCREAM (Supporting Children’s Rights through Education, the Arts and Media) activity, took a short break to greet them.

Queen Rania and Lalla Salma joined the girls in the activity, which helps in building the students' confidence, self-esteem and communication skills. At each table, the girls received different photos and were asked to describe their reactions to what they saw in terms of children's rights.

The Red Crescent offers programs to girls between 12-15 years of age who cannot be re-integrated into the formal school system, and are still employed in various handicraft activities. Those enrolled receive a life-skill education such as basic reading, writing and arithmetic skills and counseling by trained staff.

UNICEF trained employers, non-governmental organisations, social workers and public servants on children’s rights; equipped the centers; facilitated the linkages with the health centers; supported the vaccination of working children against tetanus; as well as supporting leisure and play activities for the working children and those re-integrated in schools. The ILO/IPEC program joined UNICEF in 2003.

UNICEF, the Ministry of Education, and other partners have also embraced the Child-Friendly School Model where schools are encouraged to be more participatory, quality oriented and accommodating to children. The partners also involve parents, children and communities in day-to-day decisions. At least 700 schools in Morocco are now using this model and 67 percent of them have reduced the drop out rate. The child-friendly schools provide access to quality basic education and serve as a practical response to child labor.

Queen Rania, who was appointed UNICEF's first Eminent Advocate for Children this January, advocates a better world for children and highlights achievements of the Millennium Development Goals, which are directly related to health, education and well being of children.

"The right to a childhood of health, education, happiness and dignity is the right of every child - and it is well within our collective capacity to realize that right," said the Queen.

About UNICEF
UNICEF is on the ground in over 150 countries and territories to help children survive and thrive, from early childhood through adolescence. The world’s largest provider of vaccines for developing countries, UNICEF supports child health and nutrition, good water and sanitation, quality basic education for all boys and girls, and the protection of children from violence, exploitation, and AIDS. UNICEF is funded entirely by the voluntary contributions of individuals, businesses, foundations and governments.

For further information, please contact:
Hind-Lara Mango, Communication Officer, UNICEF/Jordan Country Office: Tel + 9626-5502430: E-mail: hmango@unicef.org

Najwa Mekki, Communications Officer, UNICEF NY: Tel + 212- 326-7162; Email Nmekki@unicef.org

June 3, 2007

Promoting Education for Morocco's Children - continued

Queen Rania, Eminent Advocate for Children, shares Morocco’s successes

FEZ, Morocco, 1 June 2007 – Morocco is committed to the achievement of quality education, protection and a decent life for its children. During an official visit to the Kingdom, Her Majesty Queen Rania of Jordan today witnessed examples of innovative projects being implemented here.

Accompanied by Her Royal Highness Princess Lalla Salma of Morocco, Queen Rania – in her capacity as UNICEF’s first Eminent Advocate for Children – visited the Fkih Mohamed Tahiri School in Fez, which offers former child labourers the opportunity to acquire formal education and to integrate with other children.

The school is part of a model programme initiated by Her Royal Highness Princess Lalla Meryem, President of the National Observatory for Children’s Rights (ONDE). Known as the Prevention and Elimination of Child Labour Programme, it is supported by the International Programme on the Elimination of Child Labour (IPEC) and UNICEF.
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Jordan’s Queen Rania (centre) and Morocco’s Princess Lalla Salma, wife of Morocco’s King Mohammed VI, visit Fkih Mohamed Tahiri Primary School in a suburb of Fez.

Former carpet weaver Khadija, 10, has been attending the school in Fez for the past three years.

“When I was five, I started to work in carpet weaving to help my family,” she recounted to Queen Rania and Princess Lalla Salma, both sitting by her side. Khadija went on to explain that her impoverished family includes three other children who are still employed in the craft industry, as well as her father and step-mother.

“I like school and I am very glad to have left the workshop, where I worked more than 11 hours a day,” she said. “Our maalma [supervisor] struck me with a stick every time she noticed that I was slow.”

Like the majority of girls her age employed in carpet weaving, Khadija was paid $8 per month for making a large carpet with the help of seven other girls.

Providing non-formal education

The child labour programme has transformed Khadija’s life and those of 700 other children under the age of 12 in Fez. But not every Moroccan child has had the same chance. Hundreds of thousands of children continue to be exploited in the informal sector. According to figures from the 2000 national employment survey, 11 per cent of children between the ages of 7 and 14 work. This translates into 600,000 children, more than half of whom have never gone to school.

Following their stop at the Fkih Mohamed Tahiri School, the Queen and Princess Lalla Salma visited the Red Crescent Centre for non-formal education – another programme supported by IPEC and UNICEF – which serves girls over 12 who are employed.

Fadila, 15, joined the Red Crescent Centre three years ago. “I started weaving carpets when I was seven years old,” she said. “I have seven brothers and sisters who still work.” Fadila’s supervisor allows her to come to the non-formal education centre twice a week. Rubbing her work-roughened hands, she proudly said that she can now write and read Arabic and French.

The Prevention and Elimination of Child Labour Programme in Fez was established as a result of studies conducted in 1997 in cooperation with the Moroccan League for Child Protection, the United Nations Population Fund and UNICEF.

The programme began by studying the scope of child labour in Morocco, particularly among young girls in domestic work. The investigation also revealed the exploitation of children in the craft industry, highlighting the dangerous nature of the work and its physical impact on children.

ONDE and the Wilaya (an administrative regional structure) supported UNICEF Morocco – in collaboration with the Delegation of the Ministry of Handcrafts and Tourism – developing a plan of action to convince professional associations, employers and families to withdraw children below the age of 12 from work. The plan aimed, as well, to stop the recruitment of children by employers and allow those 12 and over to both earn and learn.

Other key partners included the Ministries of Health, Education and Labour, civil society organizations and children themselves.

In 2002, a multi-sector committee was formed to further develop the plan. In 2003, the International Labour Organization/IPEC signed on. In its first five years, the child labour programme has reached a total of 1,313 children.

In recent years, the government and civil society in Morocco have taken several other measures to combat child labour, including the harmonization of national legislation with international norms and standards. The new labour code forbids employment of children under 15 and strengthens sanctions against those who employ children, while the penal code introduces new sanction against child exploitation.

The silence surrounding the issue of girls employed as domestic workers was broken in 2001, thanks to a public awareness campaign launched under the patronage of Princess Lalla Meryem. A law prohibiting the use of young maids under 15 is now being considered, and several agreements between ONDE and public and private partners offer income-generating activities to reward families who withdrew their daughters from domestic labour.

Later in her visit today, Queen Rania saw yet another project focused on combating poverty and social and economic exclusion – the Mohamed V Foundation for Solidarity, established in 1999 by His Majesty King Mohamed VI. At a model education centre for underprivileged young girls, Dar Al Fatat, she was introduced to the mission of the foundation.

Queen Rania also visited a student hostel, Dar Taliba, which benefits from Mohamed V Foundation funding. The hostel focuses on supporting secondary and university female students from rural areas who would otherwise be unable to complete their education.


June 4, 2007

Can't wait

I'm a little nervous but very excited about our trip!! I'm most excited about getting to know the Moroccan people and learning some Arabic. Learning Arabic along with practicing my French should be really cool. I'm starting to pick up some of the books my mom has gotten about Islam and so far they are all really cool. I can't believe that it's already almost time to go!! See you all on Thursday!

packing and being anxious and excited

After all this time of reading here and there and THINKING about what we will bring (not too much) I am finally turning my attention almost fully to the task of being lightly but adequetely packed for our adventure. Is below the knee long enough? How to be cool but covered so that I can be respectful of this culture and immerse myself in it. I know we will learn from each other and help eachother learn and have fun and it is this I am most excited about. If anyone has purchased maps, do you have suggestions? What kind of adaptor will we need and where should I get it? Any thoughts?

June 8, 2007

Wheels Up

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Half of the group gets ready to pass through security at JFK and board their Royal Air Maroc flight to North Africa!

Safe in Marrakesh

Alex called our offices in NYC to let us know that the group has arrived in Marrakesh and they are resting up after the international journey before heading out on a walking tour of the city this evening.

Check back soon for more updates.

John

June 9, 2007

Marrakeshi Momentum

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Djemaa el Fna at night

After 2 delayed flights (count 'em) and 1 canceled flight (you've got to earn an Africa entree), the group landed in Marrakesh fatigued but in very good spirits. A late lunch of traditional couscous ("siksu") in the Riad Arabesca courtyard followed by a nap and some mint tea--the first of several cups in our first 2 days--gave us the right momentum to tackle the Djemaa el Fna at night. The "Square of the Dead" was anything but. Snake charmers were out in full force, and Madame Spittler sported her very first cobra necklace. Gnawa musicians, magicians, fortune tellers, henna artists (Caroline, Alyssa, and others offered their hands) and our crusty frame of mind helped to fuel the carnival atmosphere. The air was thick with the scent of boiled snails, kebabs, freshly-squeezed orange juice, and nougat. The evening call to prayer, a first for most in the group, added another sensory layer. We had a tasty arrival dinner at the edge of this enthralling madness.

Well, that was yesterday. Today

we entered the Marrakesh souq after a delightful breakfast accented by the many house sparrows that live in the nether reaches of the courtyard's eaves. The riad is a quiet retreat from the medina's (old city) energy. Remember, when the donkeys and mopeds bear down the alleys, shuffle right. The group's shopping vibe was alive. Souq stops included the weavers' souq--ahem, several purchases made, including special measurements taken for custom wear; the babouche (shoe) souq (another purchase); wicker/straw souq (Madame caved in here); and a walk through the intensely invigorating spice souq. This is but a micron of what we saw, heard, touched, smelled, and tasted (various "helwa" aka sweets were sampled and the peanut ("kaokao") brittle was a big hit). Tasty afternoon lunch of kefta and noodles back at the riad. More mint tea. And a bit more. Then the fashion shoot. Everyone adorned themselves with an array of traditional Moroccan dress and costumes housed at Arabesca and gave their best Kate Holmes in Caftan routine. We wrapped up the day with an introductory Arabic lesson in which the Moroccan Arabic word for "Ok" seemed to resonate. "Wa-cha"...more like "wa-chhhhha" with that "ch" originating somewhere south of epiglottis. We couldn't resist the pulse of the Djemaa el Fna so another dinner nearby, a swell buffet spread of lamb, chicken, harira soup, and sauteed carrots and cauliflower. The jet lag got to a couple of us this eve, eyes woozy, but we'll be ready for more of the Pearl of the South, The Red City, The Ochre City tomorrow. One more cool thing--the temps. With Marrakesh broiling last week at over 100F, mid 80s and low 60s in June is, well, "emziyan, il hamdu lilah". Good, thanks be to God.

June 10, 2007

Photos from the first 48 hours...

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Our couscous welcome meal in the courtyard at Arabesca

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Amelia sketching the scene

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Annette buys Kaokao in the market

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Cedar artisan in the souq

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Measuring Alyssa for her Moroccan garb

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Snacking on snails at sunset

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Djemaa el Fna (Square of the Dead) by night

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Americans in Morocco

The Sufi Way

Good fortune was ours this evening as we were able to observe and feel the power of a ritual few non-Muslims witness: a genuine Sufi "dhikr" or "remembrance" of God, or Allah. In the intimate courtyard of the American Language Center in Marrakesh, following mint tea and almond-infused gazelle horn pastries, six men from a local Sufi order chanted songs of praise, mercy, and love to Allah...all in an attempt to seek oneness with the Creator. The exuberance was uplifting. Alas, this message of peace, happiness, and sheer joy for all of Allah's creations--Muslim and not--is one that is, unfortunately, alien to much of our Western subconscious. There was nothing somber about this display. Happiness and goodness penetrated us tonight and even if but for tonight, we are better from this extraordinary experience. And quite thankful that Morocco's long tradition of Sufism still sings.

To Essaouira and the "west" coast tomorrow for sunset over the Atlantic. Take that, Cali.

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June 12, 2007

Update from Essaouira

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Essaouira, formerly known as Mogador

We visited the lush and colorful Jardin Majorelle in Marrakesh yesterday (part of Yves Saint Laurent's compound) before taking a van to Essaouira; en route we visited an argan oil coop, observed the female workers breaking the nuts to extract the essence that is manually pressed (entire process is manual, actually) into the oil; we sampled several varieties including "Berber chocolate."

Today we enjoyed a terrific camel ride on the beach followed by traditional Moroccan hammam treatments (massages, mud wraps) which left everyone glowing. Tonight we will gather for a sunset dinner at the fresh fish stands overlooking the ocean, not far from the hotel where Orson Welles stayed while filming "Othello" in 1952. Winston Churchill and Jimi Hendrix are other notables who found the atmosphere of this picturesque fishing town to their liking.

Tomorrow we will leave in the morning for the High Atlas Mountains to begin our exploration of the indigenous Berber culture. We may not have Internet access until we return to Marrakesh on the 17th.

Alex

The Camels

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After a wonderful breakfast of tea, a chocolate croissant, and bread and butter the group went there separate ways (always in groups of four) to ......SHOP. At 11:00 we all set out from the Riad to a Jeep to take us to the singled humped camels. We all found our camel to be and mounted onto the "saddle". Those animals are TALL!!! The first time you are on a camel and it stands up, it is quite a shock because you heave forward (gripping to the wooden handle in front with everything you got), only to the heave back. The lead camels and the owners took charge and we headed out for the beach. We had a nice wind complete with a gust of sand, leaving a crunch in your mouth. We had a gorgeous view of the city and ruins along the beach while traveling across the mini sand dunes. We then experienced the camel drop as we stopped half way to take pictures and play in the waves. This short 30 minute ride had left some of us a little bow legged. We soon swung ourselves back into the saddle for the home stretch and negotiated and made our way in between a few construction trucks. After the camel dropped down to the ground a second time, the first group left for the city while a few of us admired the beautiful arabian horses that where at the same farm as the camels.

Hi from Essaouira!

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Essaouira Fisherman

Greetings from Morocco! Today I had two completely new experiences. We rode camels and went to the hamam. The camel ride was fun though Amelia's camel, Simbad, kept nuzzling me from behind! The hamam was relaxing and a great experience. We might have to go back once we are in Fes! Tonight we ate a seafood feast and shopped for some Moroccan music. I loved Marrakesh but it is interesting to note the differences between Marrakesh and Essaouira, which is much less hectic. I'll quickly add that I loved the dhikr in Marrakesh. It was wonderful to be able to experience an important part of Sufism that not many witness.

salaam y'all!

hey mom and pops.

i'm in the beautiful seaside town of essaouira about to ride off on a camel into the sunset with mohammed, and i won't be coming back. life in the harem just seems so peaceful, compared to the looming stresses of junior year.

JUST KIDDING!

partially. i did ride a camel today, and his name was max. we became fast friends. later, we went to the hammam. it was very rejuvenating, as in lying on a tile floor covered in clove-scented mud. nothing beats that! but seriously!

alex does these crazily detailed summaries so i'll keep it to a bare minimum, especially as they're about to kick us out of this internet cafe...you'd find this interesting, dad, the computer keyboards are completely different. everything is in the wrong place and most of the lettering is rubbed off, so this is somewhat strenuous. in a good way.

we heard sufi's chanting. that was chill. i expected them to be all intense and completely freak out if any of our hair showed from under our headscarves. but no! they were, if anything, jovial. then there was this chicken in the middle we ate with our hands. but only our right hands. but its discrimination against lefties like me!

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we ate at a fish place by the sea tonight. it was great, even though i'm usually not a fish person, partially because madame got all the bones out. she's my fave, but you know that. a great big seagull landed one on her backpack...

every morning you hear the call to prayer from the minaret of the local mosque. it's quite cool, albeit at about 5 o'clock. the guy who supposedly makes the call doesn't actually make the call; in fact, it's recorded over loudspeaker or projected or something. the guy's name is the 'muezzin.' we know all sorts of arabic words. gita, this crazy swedish lady, printed us out a packet. but she's cool. its all about your posture...

good times! i'll check in later, hopefully, and sorry to mom and pops that we haven't been in touch in a while. maybe you got the rambling message i left on the home answering machine?

peace out.

music scene in essy

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Hello All! So we just emerged from a really cool hole in the wall--literally a little closet big enough for six people in the side of a gate--where we found the coolest little music dive. The young man working there was a classic kind of music youth with that kind of laid back attitude and complete assurance in his music repertoire. I don't want to reveal any gifts I may or my not have bought, but he was very helpful. It was incredibly striking how much he reminded me of the kind of alternative music scene in the U.S. in an ex-angsty, chill way. It was so striking just to find him in a place where, on the streets, everyone appears and conducts themselves very traditionally. Is there a limited cultural exchange? From my limited comprehension, all the locals are very accepting and even welcoming of tourists, but they seem to have thoroughly distinguished their conduct and culture. Anyways, good night. Bye mom.

Juliana H

June 13, 2007

Womens Argan Oil Cooperative

Argan oil, or "liquid gold," is made from the seeds of the argan tree, which grows only in Morocco and provides a critical "green curtain" of forest protecting the southwest region from desertification. The womens cooperative we visited was an inspiring example of local community involvement in a project that combines income generation for poor women, environmental protection, and traditional skills.

"Since time immemorial, the women who live in arid regions — particularly in southwestern Morocco — have depended on this almost mythical tree. Its wood is used as fuel, its leaves and seeds as feed for goats. The tree has medicinal properties and its oil both nourishes and beautifies. Indeed, argan oil is reputed for its almost magical powers, but extracting it is difficult and time-consuming." --Narjis Rerhaye, Moroccan journalist

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At the Jardin Majorelle

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A Fine Day for a Camel Ride

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The Moroccan Snake Dance

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Nothing adds to a road trip like the Moroccan Snake Dance

Moroccan Makeover

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Caroline gets some assistance applying traditional Moroccan mascara

The winding, carpeted road to Imlil

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Mohamed Soudani gives a talk to the group on Berbers and the Sahara

Alex just called and left a message saying that en route to Imlil today the gang decided to stop and bargain for some Moroccan carpets. Sounds like it was a successful pitstop/shopportunity--most everyone now has a Moroccan carpet to bring home from the journey.

John

June 18, 2007

Down From the Mountains and Fes-ready

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Where we were in the High Atlas

We have returned to Marrakesh after an adventure-filled four days in the High Atlas Mountains. Our challenging trek to Tizzi Oussem offered us some spectacular views around 2000 meters, and the genuine hospitality at the Berber gite (guest house) was welcome and rejuvenating. Each night, the stars were storybook-like in their abundance and glimmer. The geography, mud-brick architecture, natural surroundings, and very simple--but strenuous--lifestyle of these endearing mountain people provided us a very different dimension than our urban experiences to date. Our two days in another small village, Tassa Ouirgane, allowed us to be in a more stationary and observant frame of mind: we met scores of friendly and curious school children, the village's lone but committed teacher (who commutes from Marrakesh, about 90 minutes away), visited their wanting, windowless school, and were serenaded with a couple of songs they recently learned. Michele contributed numerous solar-powered calculators and pens that she had brought with her, and there was talk among the students of trying to raise money for some of the school's most pressing needs. We also met with four endearing Berber women in an informal roundtable and captured a glimpse of their very modest lives, needs (another cow, more rain), desires (some furniture), and dreams (visiting America got top billing here). Some of us also observed an initial meeting of the men's village association--at night, powered by gas lamp. Finally, we visited a women's carpet-making cooperative in Asni which has improved the lives of many women who were previously unemployed; in a notable gesture promoting sustainable development and ecotourism, this co-op was recently engaged by Richard Branson's new, nearby luxury property, Kasbah Tamadot, to create all its carpets.

I would suspect that most of us descended the mountains with renewed awareness of our fortune and privilege. The kindness emblematic of The High Atlas has no apparent material origin.

June 19, 2007

Photos from the High Atlas Excursion

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Amelia and Berber Friend

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Visiting with village school children

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Greer masters the Moroccan tea pour technique

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Juliana and Berber friend

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Tassa Ouirgane Womens Talk

June 21, 2007

Fes Images

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Amelia tries her hand at the potters' souq

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One of Fes' renowned tanners toiling in the medina tannery

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Margaret practicing calligraphy

MULES ROCK MY WORLD!!!!!

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During the several days of bbblllooooggggg silence, the group "treked" (reality is we HIKED) up the mountain. After approximately 30 minutes we see the first couple of mules and donkeys go bye. I am initially shocked and surprised by how easy they manage to go up the mountain. Much easier then I can. After about three and a half hours of hiking, four bottles of water, and my chest starting to ache, Alex and I stop and decide to wait for two mules to come and get us. I was completely exhausted (this was my first ever hike) and quickly running out of water. As the rest of the group carried on, Alex and I slowly made our way from shady tree to shady tree. Eventually we saw one mule coming down the mountain after passing through the pass at the top. Alex gives a joyous exclamation that we are saved and waves to the man on the donkey. I ask him why they brought only one donkey when we asked for two. I then claim that it probably is not our donkey/mule. Once the donkey is near, Alex deflates and admits that indeed, it is not our mule. We return to our tree and wait another 45 minutes before the mule and donkey arrived along with a huge bottle of water which is greatly needed. I am helped onto the mule and start up the mountain. As the beloved mule climbs up the steep and slippery slope I hold onto the reins and rural saddle for dear life. I think to myself "hold on, lean forward" as the mule jumps and lurches onto the next rock. "Please do not slip" I pray as I look down at the abyss below. I then become engrossed in watching the mule pick its way through the rocks and up the slope. I see it eye one rock pivet and climb up the next. Once Alex and I reach the top we join the others for lunch, arriving to everyone's applause. I dismount, not very gracefully, and converse with my mother who took the mule up after the first mule train. She and I both agree that we have discovered our new favorite animal and have a great respect for it. Mules are our friends. Mules ROCK!

Homestays

My homestay experience was wonderful. I realize I am lucky to have lived with a family of seven who maintain both traditional values and new perspectives enough to accommodate American students.

I am grateful to those who found the families as well since, in sharing their friends, they created new friendships for us.

I hope every other group had such a satisfying experience. The amount of food we were given was enough proof of my family's hospitality.

Though the younger children could not really communicate with us, their acceptance of us was extremely important to me. According to their mother, the combination of their summer vacation and our presence excited them and kept them from sleeping. I hope they aren't tired now, but I loved that they were awake and happy and spending time with us.

Basically, I'm glad we didn't opt out of the homestay.

Thanks all!

June 25, 2007

Fes Finale & A Safe Return Home

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The Bab Boujeloud Gateway to the Fes Medina

Our last leg in Fes was not for the weary: homestays (and their late-night dinners surfeit with hospitality); medina wandering, touring, and shopping; a lecture on gender issues in Morocco; an intro to Arabic calligraphy--including making your own bamboo instrument and writing your name in Arabic script; a luncheon with two Fassi women of note--an accomplished artist and female activist; and our farewell henna party (accented with an Andalusian musical duo) demanded that we tap into our energy reserves. Some of us succumbed to Fassi Belly and malaise, but we rallied. And we survived the "Hotel" Cascade. Say no more. Except that tea and pastries at Palais Jamais and the pool at Hotel Splendid should have taken some of the edge off....

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A Perfect Pair

To counter the anti-couscous coup, we even worked in a tasty dinner at a Ville Nouvelle pizzeria. And lunch at McDonald's--where the "Big Tasty" combo got served up with cumin and where the interior woodwork is of artisinal caliber; it was curious to note the more exuberant Arabic tag line of "I Love All of It" instead of "I'm Lovin' It". Zween.

In the famed medina, the potters' souq and tannery were the sites of much bargaining for striking ceramics and stylish footwear. And our private tour of Medersa Bou Inania--with rooftop access--was a rarely granted bonus. This aerial perspective on the serpentine alleys, the late p.m. soft lighting, and the rising atoms of sound and smell from below were declarative Fes statements. At the restored Riad Louna, our bon voyage dinner of sweet chicken bastilla and lush tomato and pepper salads was a fitting farewell to Morocco's fresh and delicious cuisine.

By now, all of us have certainly indulged in the familiar comforts of home--the favorite couch to sack out in, our preferred comfort food, playful banter with friends and embraces from loved ones (and pets), a visit to the mall or the cinema, and maybe even flipping cable with Cherry Garcia. While the thread count may not have always exceeded your expectations and the nightly 3am REM-interruptus of the muezzin may have gotten tiresome after a while, I do hope that the goodness and authenticity of Morocco endures--and grows--within each of you as each day elapses.

Looking back, the vastness of our experiences and the amount of terrain we covered in just 2 weeks are remarkable. And how about the weather?! Warm days, cool nights, and not a drop of rain. The country did challenge us and thereby revealed itself. There's some honest balance and give-and-take to this calculus. Nothing is to be taken for granted. "Presque" and "10 minutes" mean so much more than they did on June 7th.

It was a privelege to be in a position to "set the table"--or unveil the tajine as it were--and allow all of you to interact and witness this special country and its people on your own terms. I aspired to provide you with an interesting, insightful, and memorable adventure. And a "schwaya" bit of fun too. If I achieved this, I did so thanks to your willingness, openness, flexibility, and, well, patience. So know I am grateful on all counts. I wish you all a pleasant summer and hope that experiential and educational travel will always be a part of your future plans. "Shoukran bezzef" for your company.

Sincerely,
Alex

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An Aerial View of the Fes Medina

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Andalusian Musical Performers at the Henna Party

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Khadija, a Fassi contemporary painter, offers her outlook on women in Morocco

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Seconds-old Henna Adorn Annette's Hand

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Street Scene in THE medina

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Caroline, Greer, and Alyssa Salute Fes Avec Fez

June 26, 2007

al-Maghreb Auralicious

I have attached a few audio capsules that capture different moments from our trip: a walk through Marrakesh's Djemaa el Fna at dusk; the Group Ululation concert at Arabesca; segments from the Sufi dhikr, including the call to prayer; a segment from the "darija" Arabic lessons; and a couple minutes featuring our Andalusian musical duo from the henna party. I hope these morsels serve as virtual transports whenever you need a Moroccan fix or when you just long for a familiar sound or two from our journey.

Alex

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Ululation Frenzy

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Sufi Dhikr "Qaseeda" (ode)

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Sufi Dhikr Call to Prayer

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Djemaa el Fna at dusk

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Andalusian Musical Duet

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Shouf, Zween, and Yalla - Darija Arabic Lessons

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Sufi Dhikr "There Is No god But God" chant