National Cathedral School in Morocco, Summer 2007

Alex and friend in Rabat, Morocco

I was an anxious, rudderless college sophomore when he got the call. It was from Washington, DC—the State Department to be exact—and the beige rotary phone was ringing in a remote University of Texas at Austin professor’s office, some 1,500 miles plus away. This was 1986, and to me, 1,500 miles was a faraway place. Dr. James Bill politely and unpretentiously said, “Alex, have a seat. I need to take this call from State. They need some input—help, really—with their Iran policy.” Now this is pretty cool, I thought, eyes like saucers.

So this moment isn’t how I bit on the Morocco lure, but it represents my seminal brush with “The Middle East”. In reality, the geo-political conflicts drew me in. And how we, Americans, perceived—and misperceived—related—and unrelated—to this diverse and complex region rich in culture and history. For a 20 year old, the menu was overwhelming and fascinating at once: the US reaction to the Iranian Revolution; the intractable Arab and Palestinian conflict with Israel; the Iran-Iraq war; Qaddafi’s provocations in Libya; the civil war in Lebanon; the phenomenon of political Islam; how the Gulf States influenced the world economy—the challenges and kinetic energy seemed inexhaustible. I think you get the picture.

So with the guidance of Dr. Bill and other professors who opened this new portal before me, I began studying Arabic, Islam, political science, Arab history, sociology, etc. The standard smoothie—with a language booster. So while I had to endure the tiresome heckles of “Arabic? Why the [expletive] are you taking that?” from several on pre-Med, pre-Law, and pre-MBA trajectories, to this day, two decades later, my 4 years combined undergraduate and graduate Arabic instruction represent my most valuable output from the academy. Without question.

What’s better than learning about a culture and its native tongue? Learning about a culture and its native tongue on native soil. My Arab cultural baptism was in North Africa—in Egypt—where I spent two consecutive summers working in Cairo. The first as an assistant editor to an English language magazine for tourists. The second as an assistant manager for a local FedEx franchise. So this was how I was first introduced to an “office environment” (in the US, my work experience had been limited to waiting tables). In a city of millions whose daily evasion of implosion I found, and still find, astonishing. The foot-high stacks of paper on every desk and the affinity for the rubber-stamp. In triplicate, straight out of a Gogol short story on stultifying Soviet bureaucracy. The haze of “Cleopatra” brand cig smoke in the office all day, forming another atmosphere between us and ceiling. Like at an old jazz club, but without music. My mood would flip from rapture to frustration, from affinity to disengagement—all stoked by 100F temperatures and the notorious Egyptian khamseen, the hot and unrelenting summer sandstorm from the desert on Cairo’s doorstep. Applying, growing, questioning, critiquing, fighting, capitulating, amped up, and shut down. It was glorious. Every grain.

Ok, well, after getting my grad degree in Arab Studies from Georgetown—and after an underworld stint as a bartender trying to figure out how and where to apply this credential—Morocco rang. I had figured out that a career in the diplomatic corps was not for me and had blanketed English language schools from Marrakesh to Muscat looking for a constructive and fascinating way to get back to North Africa. The winning ticket was Fes, and I had no idea what to expect…I rifled through the Atlas, honed in on Fes, land-locked in a valley, and it looked so small, so provincial, compared to a cosmopolitan Cairo seeped with humanity in every crack.

The memory of my paralysis in the Tangier airport is cleaver-sharp where, in the dust, it all came rushing, that I would be here, in the Maghrib, for a year. No Exit. And that I couldn’t speak. Be understood. Or understand. There is a memorable discomfort in suddenly realizing that communication with your fellow human is not happening like it should. My prior Arabic language training was practically useless on this hour #1 in Morocco—both my Egyptian dialect and traditional Modern Standard Arabic fell on so very deaf ears. And I had no French fall-back

I got over my Tangier two-step and Morocco moment (of doubt) soon enough. My home for the next year would be Fes. Or Fez. It was here I would teach English at the American Language Center and help launch what is today “ALIF”, the Arabic Language Institute in Fez. And it was here—and elsewhere and everywhere across this country of heart—I would grow layer upon layer of perception, community, color, and humanity.

I can tell you about dreamy moonlit camels shuffling in the Sahara, all else quiet. I can tell you about how you might pause and fixate during your first evening call to prayer, from deep in the Fes medina, and become very conscious of Islam’s tapestry and reach. And I can tell you how, with just a mote of darija, Moroccan Arabic, you will connect with rich and poor, merchant and butcher, baker and beggar—and how your words will animate the creases of these incredibly handsome and hospitable people. But these are your experiences, still unlit and unwrapped. Review our comprehensive semester program and listen to the posted Audio From Elsewhere clips of Fes and Marrakesh, and you’ll get a taste of the transport in store..

We all own various enlightening and sensational and very personal travel experiences. The night fragrances and whispers of my Roman honeymoon. An epiphany of dear wilderness and wildlife, courtesy of Alaska. And a primal sense of blood and heritage in escorting my grandmother back to her Greek island village, amidst a backdrop of sea, goats and grapes. In my experiential cellar, Morocco is as good and real and true as all of these.

After a personal detour into corporate America for more years than desirable—detours that ultimately clarify direction—the pungency of Moroccan cumin and orange blossoms and mint slaps as hard as ever. My return in April 2006 after a 14 year absence was a homecoming of sorts.

I congratulate your curiosity and passion to witness this country, this culture, and this media-riddled region of the world on your own terms. Without apology, without preconception. In all its hospitality and diversity, Morocco will leave you changed and more mindful on many levels. I look forward to speaking with you, meeting you, and answering any questions or concerns before we set out together on this remarkable and rewarding path. Tafadalo wa rihla sa’ida. Welcome and happy wanderings!

Alex

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Below are some highly recommended books to help you maximize your experience in Morocco. If time allows, borrow or purchase a few of these titles before your travels. Many libraries are likely to carry some of these as well. Those marked with an asterisk (*) are particularly recommended.

General / Travel Guides
*Lonely Planet Guide to Morocco
OR
*The Rough Guide to Morocco

History (Arab, North African, and Moroccan)
A History of the Arab Peoples, Albert Hourani (Harvard University Press, 2003). Emeritus Fellow at St. Anthony's College in Oxford, Hourani begins with Islam's rise in the 7th century and carries the rich and imposing story of Arab civilization to the late 1980s. In broad, sweeping strokes, Hourani moves easily from mosque to marketplace, from sultan to imam, from nomad to city-dweller, from Mohammed to Anwar Sadat. He focuses on the Ottoman Empire and on the European colonialism that followed, and concludes with a discussion of the modern resurgence of Islam that offers hope to thousands of Muslims and appears so threatening to Westerners.

Morocco since 1830, C.R. Pennell (C. Hurst, UK/New York University Press, US). This recent paperback, published in 2000, is one of the first general histories of modern Morocco. It covers the major strands of power but also the social and cultural life of ordinary Moroccans while focusing on the various contemporary challenges facing the country.

Travel Essays/Fiction
*The Spider’s House, Paul Bowles, 1955 (Harper Perennial). The dilemma of the outsider in an alien society, and the gap in understanding between cultures, recurrent themes of Paul Bowles's writings, are dramatized with brutal honesty in this novel set in Fez, Morocco, during that country's 1954 nationalist uprising. Totally relevant to today's political situation in the Middle East and elsewhere, richly descriptive of its setting, and uncompromising in its characterizations, The Spider's House is perhaps Bowles's most beautifully subtle novel.

Their Heads are Green and Their Hands are Blue, Paul Bowles, 1963 (Harper Perennial). Bowles, one of the four or five best writers in English in the second half of the twentieth century, embraced the desert as a Christian saint embraces his martyrdom. His self-abnegation and his love of traditional culture made him one of the keenest observers of other civilizations we have ever had in America. Unlike his countrymen he did not brashly set out to improve the rest of the world. For Bowles, Americanization was the problem, not the solution. As these startling, sober travel pieces show, Bowles, because of his powers of negative capability, was able to enter into the inner truth of even the most remote places and peoples (from the Introduction by Edmund White).

For Bread Alone, Mohamed Choukri (IB Tauris/UK). Choukri's classic and moving work—which has already been translated into more than 10 languages—speaks for an entire generation of North Africans. Born in the Rif, Choukri moved with his family to Tangier at a time of great famine. His childhood was spent in abject poverty; eight of his brothers and sisters died of malnutrition or neglect. During his adolescence, he worked for a time as servant to a French family. He then returned to Tangier, where he experienced the violence of the 1952 independence riots. Still illiterate at the age of 20, he made the decision to learn to read and write classical Arabic—a decision that transformed his life. After mastering the language, he became a teacher and writer, and finally was awarded the chair of Arabic Literature at Ibn Batuta College in Tangier.
The Voices of Marrakesh, Elias Canetti (Marion Boyars, UK). A small, compelling volume of impressions of Marrakesh in the last years of French rule by the Noble-prize winning author. The atmosphere of many pieces still holds.

Islam
*The World’s Religions, Huston Smith (HarperCollins, 1991). With a new preface and fresh package, this completely revised and updated version of The Religions of Man explores the essential elements and teachings of the world’s predominant faiths, including Hinduism, Buddhism, Confucianism, Taoism, Islam, Judaism, Christianity, and the native traditions of the Americas, Australia, Africa, and Oceania. Smith emphasizes the inner – rather than institutional – dimensions of these religions and gives special attention to Zen, Tibetan Buddhism, Sufism, and the teachings of Jesus. He convincingly conveys the unique appeal and gifts of each of the traditions and reveals their hold on the human heart and imagination. Students are highly advised to read the section on Islam.

Islam: The Straight Path, John L. Esposito (Oxford University Press, 1998). This exceptionally successful survey text introduces the faith, belief, and practice of Islam from its earliest origins up to its contemporary resurgence. The author, an internationally renowned expert on Islam, traces the development of this dynamic faith and its impact on world history and politics, discussing the formation of Islamic belief and practice (in law, theology, and mysticism) and chronicling the struggle of Muslims to define and adhere to their Islamic way of life. Lucidly written, the third edition of Islam: The Straight Path provides keen insight into one of the world's least understood religions.

Realm of the Saint: Power and Authority in Moroccan Sufism, Vincent J. Cornell, (Austin: University of Texas Press, 1998). In premodern Moroccan Sufism, sainthood involved not only a closeness to the Divine presence (walaya) but also the exercise of worldly authority (wilaya). The Moroccan Jazuliyya Sufi order used the doctrine that the saint was a "substitute of the prophets" and personification of a universal "Muhammadan Reality" to justify nearly one hundred years of Sufi involvement in Moroccan political life, which led to the creation of the sharifian state. This book presents a systematic history of Moroccan Sufism through the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries C.E. and a comprehensive study of Moroccan Sufi doctrine, focusing on the concept of sainthood.

Anthropology/Gender Studies
Doing Daily Battle: Interviews with Moroccan Women, Fatima Mernissi, (The Women’s Press, UK/Rutgers University Press, US). Eleven women—carpet weavers, rural and factory workers, teachers—talk about all aspects of their lives, from work to housing to marriage. Unique insight into traditionally private quarters.

*A Street in Marrakech, Elizabeth W. Fernea (Waveland Press, 1988). An American woman anthropologist’s view of Marrakech in 1971-72; it will give you an idea of how much Marrakech has changed, or not, in the last 20 years.

The Mellah Society: Jewish Community Life in Sherifan Morocco, Shlomo Deshen, (Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1989). This is a work that tackles the issue of Jewish identity in a predominantly Muslim country. In his account, Shlomo penetrates Moroccan culture and discusses a variety of key concerns that will give perspective to your experience.

Documentaries/Film
*Class of 2006, PBS, Director Gini Reticker. WIDE ANGLE cameras are on location in Morocco as history is made. In May 2006, an imam academy in the city of Rabat holds a graduation ceremony. But the class of 2006 is no ordinary group of students. Side by side with the male graduates are 50 women pioneers, among the first contemporary group of women to be officially trained as religious leaders in the Arab world. Empowered to do everything that male imams do -- except lead Friday prayer in a mosque -- the women will fan out across Morocco to work as spiritual guides in mosques, schools, hospitals, and prisons, even hosting their own television and radio talk shows.

The Sheltering Sky (1990). Paul Bowles’ novel set to the Big Screen. Directed by Bernardo Bertolucci and starring John Malkovich and Debra Winger.

Morocco: The Past and the Present of Djemma El Fna, 1995. A short documentary by Steven Montgomery profiling the legendary marketplace in Marrakech, with glimpses of its snake charmers, musicians, and storytellers.

The Wind and The Lion, 1975. In the early 1900s, an American businessman was kidnapped by a rebellious Arab chieftain, principally as a means to embarrass the Sultan of Morocco. This abduction sparked the threat of armed intervention by President Theodore Roosevelt, which was never carried out. In The Wind and the Lion, the unattractive male captive is replaced by the gorgeous female Mrs. Pedecaris, an American widow played by Candice Bergen. The ruthless but essentially decent Arab chief Raisuli is portrayed by Sean Connery, while Teddy Roosevelt is depicted as a jingoistic blowhard by Brian Keith. The film's main theme, that of America's emergence as a world power, is largely secondary to the growing mutual-respect relationship between Mrs. Pedecaris and Raisuli. After releasing his hostage, Raisuli is himself captured by German forces, who at the behest of the Kaiser are seeking out methods of laying the groundwork for what would evolve into World War I. With the help of Mrs. Pedecaris -- and, in long-distance fashion, President Roosevelt -- Raisuli escapes. Director John Milius' screenplay bears little relation to the facts of the matter, but this is forgotten in the light of the film's dynamic action sequences, not to mention the marvelous rapport between its two main stars.

Music
The Rough Guide to the Music of Morocco
Gnawa Diffusion

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THINK LIGHT! You will have to put whatever you bring onto the tops of buses and you will have to carry your bag for long distances. Here's a list of all that you will need to stay warm, dry, cool and comfortable. When packing, think layers and do your best to stay away from cotton (save T-shirts) because cotton takes a long time to dry. We recommend that you only bring what's listed here. The lighter you pack, the happier you--and the rest of the group--will be. There will be opportunities to do “self-service” laundry where we’ll be staying.

PLEASE NOTE: We strive to be model visitors, and therefore ask that students bring clothing that is lightweight and durable, but that also covers the body well, and looks respectable. Tie-dyed T-shirts, cut-off jeans, tight fitting leggings and tank tops are inappropriate, as they show disrespect for local cultures.

BACK PACK/SUITCASE: Your main container to store your things. Something light weight and durable is best.
DAY PACK: A book-bag or fanny-pack to use for daily excursions (to carry camera, water bottle, jacket, notebook, etc).
STUFF SACKS: Light-weight and compact, using stuff sacks to separate clothes, food, toiletries, and everything else will bring order to your pack, and make your life simpler.
VALID PASSPORT: Good for at least 6 months from the beginning of your program.
MONEY BELT: A very important item to wear daily, under your clothes, safely hiding your passport, money, etc.
RAIN COAT/OUTER SHELL: A water-proof wind breaker, ideally light-weight and breathable.
JACKET / SWEATER: As light weight as possible, to wear on the plane or in rare air-conditioned settings or in the High Atlas.
T-SHIRTS: 2, in decent shape.
NICE SHIRT: 3, for meetings and special occasions.
BATHING SUIT: 1, for the “hammam” experience (you’ll wear these under appropriate outerwear).
PANTS: 2, ideally light-weight. Jeans are heavy and take a long time to dry!
SOCKS & UNDERWEAR: 4 pairs each.
SLEEPWEAR: Ideally a T-shirt/shorts can double for this. Minimize extra weight!
SKIRT / SUNDRESS: There may also be opportunities to buy inexpensive skirts in Morocco.

SNEAKERS/TRAIL SHOES: Durable and comfortable, for daily wear.
SANDLES/ TEVAS: Good for every day use in hot weather.
WATER BOTTLE: Please bring at least one, one-quart, plastic. “Nalgene” or Nalgene-type plastic bottles can be found at local outdoor gear shops.
CHAPSTICK & SUNSCREEN
VISOR / SUN HAT
SUNGLASSES - With UV protection.
NATURAL TEARS / VISINE EYE DROPS – With sandy, dusty conditions and a dry climate, this is handy to have.
CAMERA & FILM: Extra film is available in Morocco, although it is more expensive. Do bring an extra camera battery! If you use a digital camera you might want to bring an extra memory card.
DIGITAL AUDIO RECORDER: If you have one, bring it to capture your impromptu thoughts, interview your homestay host, etc., and capture some of the unique sounds emblematic of Morocco
ALARM CLOCK: Travel-size, to catch early buses and trains.
TOWEL: Small and light (and ideally fast-drying). *Just in case—good to have when we travel between circuits—and in the event the towel-snatching camel appears at our lodgings
TOILETRIES: Just the basics! (Brush, toothbrush & paste, shampoo, etc.) No hair driers, irons, etc.
MEDICATIONS/VITAMINS: Bring any prescription medicine you take in its original container to avoid problems at customs.
GLASSES/CONTACTS: Bring a back up pair as well.
NOTEBOOK / JOURNAL
PEN / PENCIL
TRAVEL BOOK: Ideally about the places we will visit (we can swap around to minimize weight).
SPENDING MONEY: We recommend about $10-15 per day though you may not spend this much unless you plan on buying a lot of gifts (or expensive ones). American Express traveler's cheques are safest, in a mix of $20 and $50 denominations, but not every bank in Morocco cashes traveler’s cheques. ATMs are fairly widespread and just as efficient, in my opinion.

OPTIONAL:

SHORTS - 1 pair, at least mid-thigh length (shorts won't be appropriate much of the time; in fact, you may never wear them, but they can be good to sleep in).
BANDANA - These can serve multiple purposes while traveling
UMBRELLA - A lightweight, travel umbrella can serve you as well in rain or shine.
INSECT REPELLENT
EAR PLUGS - Help you sleep on long flights and bus rides—and if your roommate has a tendency to snore—or talk in her sleep!
PLAYING CARDS
PURELL - Anti-bacterial hand gel (a small bottle), or anti-bacterial hand-wipes.

PLEASE NOTE: Lugging a heavy pack around for the entire time we are in Morocco can be extremely tiresome. We can find almost anything you'll need in the countries we visit, and you'll also want to pick up new items. Seriously challenge yourself to pack light, and lighter still, you definitely will not regret it! If you have any questions about whether it is or isn't appropriate to bring certain items, please don't hesitate to ask.

One final thing that is essential equipment: A HEALTHY BODY!! Your experience will be so much more enjoyable if you come with a body that is fully prepared for the journey. If you are not already getting regular exercise, we recommend starting an aerobic workout program—or at least taking long walks--exercising at least 30 minutes a day, five days a week.

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