Each time I go to a place I have not seen before, I hope it will be as different as possible from the places I already know.
–Paul Bowles, author of The Sheltering Sky, desert explorer, Morocco expatriate

A mere 17 miles south of Europe, across the Strait of Gibraltar, a very different experience awaits—an intriguing place of great contrast, color, culture, history, and hospitality: Morocco was the first nation to recognize the United States as an independent nation in 1777. The Moroccan-American Treaty of Friendship stands as the U.S.'s oldest non-broken friendship treaty. Signed by John Adams and Thomas Jefferson, it has been in continuous effect since 1783.

"Rooted in Africa, watered by Islam and rustled by the winds of Europe" in the words of its late King Hassan II, Morocco is a captivating and multifaceted country. If you are you motivated to learn firsthand about a culture rich in African, European, Arab, and Islamic traditions…if you are eager to explore an ecological diversity ranging from Atlantic Ocean to High Atlas Mountains to Mediterranean Coast to Saharan Desert…and if you desire close interaction with people of legendary hospitality, this summer in Morocco will be a wonderfully rewarding experience.

Posted by Global LAB at 3:46 PM | Permalink

June 8: Arrive Marrakesh, Morocco. Traditional Friday couscous lunch upon arrival followed by guided walking tour of Marrakesh (visit of Dar Si Said Museum or Bahia Palace). Intro Moroccan Arabic ("Darija") lesson #1. Dinner at Djemaa el Fna. After dinner—guided tour of Djemaa el Fna by night

June 9: 2nd Guided walking tour of Marrakesh. Visit weavers’ area, main souq—including women’s market, babouche shop, dyers, Koubba Almoravide (oldest monument of Marrakesh), and visit ancient Qur’anic school (medersa, now a museum). Light lunch; Siesta/free time; afternoon tea. Lecture demo on traditional Moroccan dress code with “Darija” vocabulary. Intro “Darija” lesson #2. Visit Palace restaurant from Hitchcock film classic, “The Man Who Knew Too Much” en route to a traditional dinner buffet elsewhere. View, discuss short DVD programs about young students in Marrakesh.

June 10: Intro to Islam and Sufism lecture/discussion. Walk to nearby handicraft artisans (leather and brass), the “Mellah” (Jewish Quarter), lamps and lantern production; tour the “mellah” marketplace for flowers, vegetable, fish, and meat; and the section for recycling car and bicycle tires into handicraft items and furniture. Lunch at nearby restaurant. Tour of Marrakesh’s modern city (“Gueliz”) and a visit to Jardin Majorelle. Optional group visit to a “hammam”, a traditional, segregated public bath house. Attendance at a Sufi dinner + observance of a Sufi dhikr ritual...

Continue reading "Program Itinerary" »

Posted by Global LAB at 5:11 PM | Permalink

Alex and friend in Rabat, Morocco

I was an anxious, rudderless college sophomore when he got the call. It was from Washington, DC—the State Department to be exact—and the beige rotary phone was ringing in a remote University of Texas at Austin professor’s office, some 1,500 miles plus away. This was 1986, and to me, 1,500 miles was a faraway place. Dr. James Bill politely and unpretentiously said, “Alex, have a seat. I need to take this call from State. They need some input—help, really—with their Iran policy.” Now this is pretty cool, I thought, eyes like saucers.

So this moment isn’t how I bit on the Morocco lure, but it represents my seminal brush with “The Middle East”. In reality, the geo-political conflicts drew me in. And how we, Americans, perceived—and misperceived—related—and unrelated—to this diverse and complex region rich in culture and history. For a 20 year old, the menu was overwhelming and fascinating at once: the US reaction to the Iranian Revolution; the intractable Arab and Palestinian conflict with Israel; the Iran-Iraq war; Qaddafi’s provocations in Libya; the civil war in Lebanon; the phenomenon of political Islam; how the Gulf States influenced the world economy—the challenges and kinetic energy seemed inexhaustible. I think you get the picture.

Continue reading "Welcome from Alex Safos, Director Middle East & North Africa Programs" »

Posted by Global LAB at 5:07 PM | Permalink

Below are some highly recommended books to help you maximize your experience in Morocco. If time allows, borrow or purchase a few of these titles before your travels. Many libraries are likely to carry some of these as well. Those marked with an asterisk (*) are particularly recommended.

General / Travel Guides
*Lonely Planet Guide to Morocco
OR
*The Rough Guide to Morocco

History (Arab, North African, and Moroccan)
A History of the Arab Peoples, Albert Hourani (Harvard University Press, 2003). Emeritus Fellow at St. Anthony's College in Oxford, Hourani begins with Islam's rise in the 7th century and carries the rich and imposing story of Arab civilization to the late 1980s. In broad, sweeping strokes, Hourani moves easily from mosque to marketplace, from sultan to imam, from nomad to city-dweller, from Mohammed to Anwar Sadat. He focuses on the Ottoman Empire and on the European colonialism that followed, and concludes with a discussion of the modern resurgence of Islam that offers hope to thousands of Muslims and appears so threatening to Westerners.

Morocco since 1830, C.R. Pennell (C. Hurst, UK/New York University Press, US). This recent paperback, published in 2000, is one of the first general histories of modern Morocco. It covers the major strands of power but also the social and cultural life of ordinary Moroccans while focusing on the various contemporary challenges facing the country.

Continue reading "Recommended Reading List – NCS Morocco Program, June 2007" »

Posted by Global LAB at 3:29 PM | Permalink

THINK LIGHT! You will have to put whatever you bring onto the tops of buses and you will have to carry your bag for long distances. Here's a list of all that you will need to stay warm, dry, cool and comfortable. When packing, think layers and do your best to stay away from cotton (save T-shirts) because cotton takes a long time to dry. We recommend that you only bring what's listed here. The lighter you pack, the happier you--and the rest of the group--will be. There will be opportunities to do “self-service” laundry where we’ll be staying.

PLEASE NOTE: We strive to be model visitors, and therefore ask that students bring clothing that is lightweight and durable, but that also covers the body well, and looks respectable. Tie-dyed T-shirts, cut-off jeans, tight fitting leggings and tank tops are inappropriate, as they show disrespect for local cultures.

BACK PACK/SUITCASE: Your main container to store your things. Something light weight and durable is best.
DAY PACK: A book-bag or fanny-pack to use for daily excursions (to carry camera, water bottle, jacket, notebook, etc).
STUFF SACKS: Light-weight and compact, using stuff sacks to separate clothes, food, toiletries, and everything else will bring order to your pack, and make your life simpler.
VALID PASSPORT: Good for at least 6 months from the beginning of your program.
MONEY BELT: A very important item to wear daily, under your clothes, safely hiding your passport, money, etc.
RAIN COAT/OUTER SHELL: A water-proof wind breaker, ideally light-weight and breathable.
JACKET / SWEATER: As light weight as possible, to wear on the plane or in rare air-conditioned settings or in the High Atlas.
T-SHIRTS: 2, in decent shape.
NICE SHIRT: 3, for meetings and special occasions.
BATHING SUIT: 1, for the “hammam” experience (you’ll wear these under appropriate outerwear).
PANTS: 2, ideally light-weight. Jeans are heavy and take a long time to dry!
SOCKS & UNDERWEAR: 4 pairs each.
SLEEPWEAR: Ideally a T-shirt/shorts can double for this. Minimize extra weight!
SKIRT / SUNDRESS: There may also be opportunities to buy inexpensive skirts in Morocco.

Continue reading "Packing Suggestions" »

Posted by Global LAB at 3:38 PM | Permalink

The Spread

In anticipation of our forthcoming adventure, a genuinely delicious and deliciously genuine Morocco dinner was prepared by Madame Michele Spittler at the Dent’s wonderful home in Chevy Chase (thank you, Sara). The party line was that it was Michele’s first attempt at couscous and the wonderful medley of meats, fruits, vegetables, and cheeses but I am highly skeptical. I’m just as skeptical on Anne Harrison’s “first time” at pistachio-infused baklava which was just as tasty. At our first sub-par meal experience in Maroc, we’ll remind them of their talents and show them the kitchen.

Students' Table

Plentiful food aside, it was a great first opportunity to meet everyone, review the latest itinerary, and answer a variety of questions on the trip, the culture, and Global LAB processes. Provocative dinner discussions too. I mean, how often does one discuss the linguistic origins of “Berber”? The excitement is palpable, and I know we’re in store for many memorable experiences come June. I’ve already caught wind of the camel-ride movement, and we’ll see what we can do on that front [Special note to parents: no overseas insurance, no camel!].

I regret not having had more time with you, student travelers, but we’ll shore that up when we meet again later this month. Do begin to post your own personal introductions to the group (include a photo), share your reflections on what motivated you to join this trip, and tell us what you’re especially looking forward to…and not—hint: your first squat toilet tête-à-tête? “Mabrouk” (“congratulations”, in Arabic) on your enlightened decision to take this journey!

Alex

Posted by Global LAB at 4:09 PM | Permalink

We had a full house Friday evening for our mini pre-travel orientation in Madame Spittler's classroom. Thanks for everyone's attendance, involvement (excellent questions and suggestions), and eagerness. I can sense that June 7th can't come soon enough. Although we weren't able to get through the entire agenda--we'll save the impromptu Moroccan Arabic lesson and a more detailed eye of the Student Manual for our JFK layover--the revealing introductions, the detailed review of the itinerary, and the Fez slideshow placed us on solid ground. How incredible was it to learn that Alyssa and Annette--unbeknownst to them until now--are both relatives of Patrick Henry?! And it was also interesting to learn of some of your favorite places that hold special meaning, from the Outer Banks to the Adirondacks, from Mt. Hood to, well, "home". One of my goals is to add "Morocco" to your growing lists. I re-emphasized the importance and fun we can create with this blog, so I look forward to reading your entries pre-departure.

Erin Durkay spoke of the NCS honor code at the outset--and your obligation to keep it while on our trip. As we embark on this North African experience, let's remember that we're doing so as one group, not as individuals; we're doing so as a community of responsible, knowledge-seeking world citizens. With this in mind, let's pledge to maintain our group fiber and outlook throughout the journey. Flexibility, humor, an open mind, and a sense of togetherness will help open new doors to all of us. See you late a.m. at DCA on 6/7.

Posted by Alex Safos at 1:10 PM | Permalink

Jo introduces herself while Peter Gutterman, Amelia, and Stephanie listen

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Sara, daughter Annette, and Margaret--shortly after the "Patrick Henry" moment

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Erin Durkey reminds all that the NCS Honor Code isn't on holiday while in Maroc

Posted by Alex Safos at 6:48 PM | Permalink

Hey Guys! I am getting so excited about this trip! I see that I am the first one of the kids to post so i really don't know if i am doing this right... i am going shopping this weekend to find some good long sleeved light weight clothes. Should be fun! See you all on June 7th :)

Posted by at 3:23 AM | Permalink | Comments (4)

With just over 1 week before we touch down in Marrakesh, I wanted to post this map of Morocco to give us a geographic grounding. I encourage everyone to invest in a quality map and bring it with them. Our villages in The High Atlas Mountains aren't included on this map, but if you locate Jebel Toubkal (Mount Toubkal, the highest peak in all of North Africa at over 13,600 feet), we'll be in its vicinity.

Insightful explorers come to understand their terrain...make the Atlas your friend!

Posted by Alex Safos at 4:02 AM | Permalink | Comments (1)

Everyone might find the following UNICEF press release of interest in the wake of Princess Lalla Rania's reception of Queen Rania of Jordan. Both have sponsored increasing efforts to eradicate child labor and offer more educational opportunities for children--especially girls. As we walk through the medinas , take note of the various roles children play and the attitudes they project...Who knows, maybe we'll stumble upon the Red Crescent school in Fes and partake in a SCREAM activity of our own:

Queen Rania Visits UNICEF Projects in Morocco, Highlights Achievements in Child Welfare
FEZ/MOROCCO, 1 June 2007 - As part of her mandate as UNICEF's first Eminent Advocate for Children, Her Majesty Queen Rania Al Abdullah visited two UNICEF supported projects in Fez, with Lalla Salma of Morocco, to highlight the country's efforts in combating child labor and promoting education for all.

After their visit Queen Rania said, "In many ways, education is a 'social vaccine' for girls it immunizes against untimely death, poverty, and unemployment and helps them build healthy, hopeful futures."

Continue reading "Promoting Education and Hope for Girls in Morocco" »

Posted by Alex Safos at 3:03 AM | Permalink

Queen Rania, Eminent Advocate for Children, shares Morocco’s successes

FEZ, Morocco, 1 June 2007 – Morocco is committed to the achievement of quality education, protection and a decent life for its children. During an official visit to the Kingdom, Her Majesty Queen Rania of Jordan today witnessed examples of innovative projects being implemented here.

Accompanied by Her Royal Highness Princess Lalla Salma of Morocco, Queen Rania – in her capacity as UNICEF’s first Eminent Advocate for Children – visited the Fkih Mohamed Tahiri School in Fez, which offers former child labourers the opportunity to acquire formal education and to integrate with other children.

The school is part of a model programme initiated by Her Royal Highness Princess Lalla Meryem, President of the National Observatory for Children’s Rights (ONDE). Known as the Prevention and Elimination of Child Labour Programme, it is supported by the International Programme on the Elimination of Child Labour (IPEC) and UNICEF.

Jordan’s Queen Rania (centre) and Morocco’s Princess Lalla Salma, wife of Morocco’s King Mohammed VI, visit Fkih Mohamed Tahiri Primary School in a suburb of Fez.

Continue reading "Promoting Education for Morocco's Children - continued" »

Posted by Alex Safos at 4:54 PM | Permalink

I'm a little nervous but very excited about our trip!! I'm most excited about getting to know the Moroccan people and learning some Arabic. Learning Arabic along with practicing my French should be really cool. I'm starting to pick up some of the books my mom has gotten about Islam and so far they are all really cool. I can't believe that it's already almost time to go!! See you all on Thursday!

Posted by Caroline at 1:31 AM | Permalink | Comments (1)

After all this time of reading here and there and THINKING about what we will bring (not too much) I am finally turning my attention almost fully to the task of being lightly but adequetely packed for our adventure. Is below the knee long enough? How to be cool but covered so that I can be respectful of this culture and immerse myself in it. I know we will learn from each other and help eachother learn and have fun and it is this I am most excited about. If anyone has purchased maps, do you have suggestions? What kind of adaptor will we need and where should I get it? Any thoughts?

Posted by at 6:03 PM | Permalink | Comments (1)

Half of the group gets ready to pass through security at JFK and board their Royal Air Maroc flight to North Africa!

Posted by Global LAB at 3:03 AM | Permalink

Alex called our offices in NYC to let us know that the group has arrived in Marrakesh and they are resting up after the international journey before heading out on a walking tour of the city this evening.

Check back soon for more updates.

John

Posted by Global LAB at 6:15 PM | Permalink

Djemaa el Fna at night

After 2 delayed flights (count 'em) and 1 canceled flight (you've got to earn an Africa entree), the group landed in Marrakesh fatigued but in very good spirits. A late lunch of traditional couscous ("siksu") in the Riad Arabesca courtyard followed by a nap and some mint tea--the first of several cups in our first 2 days--gave us the right momentum to tackle the Djemaa el Fna at night. The "Square of the Dead" was anything but. Snake charmers were out in full force, and Madame Spittler sported her very first cobra necklace. Gnawa musicians, magicians, fortune tellers, henna artists (Caroline, Alyssa, and others offered their hands) and our crusty frame of mind helped to fuel the carnival atmosphere. The air was thick with the scent of boiled snails, kebabs, freshly-squeezed orange juice, and nougat. The evening call to prayer, a first for most in the group, added another sensory layer. We had a tasty arrival dinner at the edge of this enthralling madness.

Well, that was yesterday. Today

Continue reading "Marrakeshi Momentum" »

Posted by Alex Safos at 11:19 PM | Permalink | Comments (1)

Our couscous welcome meal in the courtyard at Arabesca

Amelia sketching the scene

Annette buys Kaokao in the market

Cedar artisan in the souq

Measuring Alyssa for her Moroccan garb

Snacking on snails at sunset

Djemaa el Fna (Square of the Dead) by night

Americans in Morocco

Posted by Global LAB at 1:49 PM | Permalink | Comments (2)

Good fortune was ours this evening as we were able to observe and feel the power of a ritual few non-Muslims witness: a genuine Sufi "dhikr" or "remembrance" of God, or Allah. In the intimate courtyard of the American Language Center in Marrakesh, following mint tea and almond-infused gazelle horn pastries, six men from a local Sufi order chanted songs of praise, mercy, and love to Allah...all in an attempt to seek oneness with the Creator. The exuberance was uplifting. Alas, this message of peace, happiness, and sheer joy for all of Allah's creations--Muslim and not--is one that is, unfortunately, alien to much of our Western subconscious. There was nothing somber about this display. Happiness and goodness penetrated us tonight and even if but for tonight, we are better from this extraordinary experience. And quite thankful that Morocco's long tradition of Sufism still sings.

To Essaouira and the "west" coast tomorrow for sunset over the Atlantic. Take that, Cali.

Posted by Alex Safos at 11:51 PM | Permalink

Essaouira, formerly known as Mogador

We visited the lush and colorful Jardin Majorelle in Marrakesh yesterday (part of Yves Saint Laurent's compound) before taking a van to Essaouira; en route we visited an argan oil coop, observed the female workers breaking the nuts to extract the essence that is manually pressed (entire process is manual, actually) into the oil; we sampled several varieties including "Berber chocolate."

Today we enjoyed a terrific camel ride on the beach followed by traditional Moroccan hammam treatments (massages, mud wraps) which left everyone glowing. Tonight we will gather for a sunset dinner at the fresh fish stands overlooking the ocean, not far from the hotel where Orson Welles stayed while filming "Othello" in 1952. Winston Churchill and Jimi Hendrix are other notables who found the atmosphere of this picturesque fishing town to their liking.

Tomorrow we will leave in the morning for the High Atlas Mountains to begin our exploration of the indigenous Berber culture. We may not have Internet access until we return to Marrakesh on the 17th.

Alex

Posted by Global LAB at 7:36 PM | Permalink

After a wonderful breakfast of tea, a chocolate croissant, and bread and butter the group went there separate ways (always in groups of four) to ......SHOP. At 11:00 we all set out from the Riad to a Jeep to take us to the singled humped camels. We all found our camel to be and mounted onto the "saddle". Those animals are TALL!!! The first time you are on a camel and it stands up, it is quite a shock because you heave forward (gripping to the wooden handle in front with everything you got), only to the heave back. The lead camels and the owners took charge and we headed out for the beach. We had a nice wind complete with a gust of sand, leaving a crunch in your mouth. We had a gorgeous view of the city and ruins along the beach while traveling across the mini sand dunes. We then experienced the camel drop as we stopped half way to take pictures and play in the waves. This short 30 minute ride had left some of us a little bow legged. We soon swung ourselves back into the saddle for the home stretch and negotiated and made our way in between a few construction trucks. After the camel dropped down to the ground a second time, the first group left for the city while a few of us admired the beautiful arabian horses that where at the same farm as the camels.

Posted by Stephanie at 10:35 PM | Permalink

Essaouira Fisherman

Greetings from Morocco! Today I had two completely new experiences. We rode camels and went to the hamam. The camel ride was fun though Amelia's camel, Simbad, kept nuzzling me from behind! The hamam was relaxing and a great experience. We might have to go back once we are in Fes! Tonight we ate a seafood feast and shopped for some Moroccan music. I loved Marrakesh but it is interesting to note the differences between Marrakesh and Essaouira, which is much less hectic. I'll quickly add that I loved the dhikr in Marrakesh. It was wonderful to be able to experience an important part of Sufism that not many witness.

Posted by at 10:40 PM | Permalink

hey mom and pops.

i'm in the beautiful seaside town of essaouira about to ride off on a camel into the sunset with mohammed, and i won't be coming back. life in the harem just seems so peaceful, compared to the looming stresses of junior year.

JUST KIDDING!

partially. i did ride a camel today, and his name was max. we became fast friends. later, we went to the hammam. it was very rejuvenating, as in lying on a tile floor covered in clove-scented mud. nothing beats that! but seriously!

alex does these crazily detailed summaries so i'll keep it to a bare minimum, especially as they're about to kick us out of this internet cafe...you'd find this interesting, dad, the computer keyboards are completely different. everything is in the wrong place and most of the lettering is rubbed off, so this is somewhat strenuous. in a good way.

we heard sufi's chanting. that was chill. i expected them to be all intense and completely freak out if any of our hair showed from under our headscarves. but no! they were, if anything, jovial. then there was this chicken in the middle we ate with our hands. but only our right hands. but its discrimination against lefties like me!

we ate at a fish place by the sea tonight. it was great, even though i'm usually not a fish person, partially because madame got all the bones out. she's my fave, but you know that. a great big seagull landed one on her backpack...

every morning you hear the call to prayer from the minaret of the local mosque. it's quite cool, albeit at about 5 o'clock. the guy who supposedly makes the call doesn't actually make the call; in fact, it's recorded over loudspeaker or projected or something. the guy's name is the 'muezzin.' we know all sorts of arabic words. gita, this crazy swedish lady, printed us out a packet. but she's cool. its all about your posture...

good times! i'll check in later, hopefully, and sorry to mom and pops that we haven't been in touch in a while. maybe you got the rambling message i left on the home answering machine?

peace out.

Posted by at 11:04 PM | Permalink

Hello All! So we just emerged from a really cool hole in the wall--literally a little closet big enough for six people in the side of a gate--where we found the coolest little music dive. The young man working there was a classic kind of music youth with that kind of laid back attitude and complete assurance in his music repertoire. I don't want to reveal any gifts I may or my not have bought, but he was very helpful. It was incredibly striking how much he reminded me of the kind of alternative music scene in the U.S. in an ex-angsty, chill way. It was so striking just to find him in a place where, on the streets, everyone appears and conducts themselves very traditionally. Is there a limited cultural exchange? From my limited comprehension, all the locals are very accepting and even welcoming of tourists, but they seem to have thoroughly distinguished their conduct and culture. Anyways, good night. Bye mom.

Juliana H

Posted by Global LAB at 11:47 PM | Permalink

Argan oil, or "liquid gold," is made from the seeds of the argan tree, which grows only in Morocco and provides a critical "green curtain" of forest protecting the southwest region from desertification. The womens cooperative we visited was an inspiring example of local community involvement in a project that combines income generation for poor women, environmental protection, and traditional skills.

"Since time immemorial, the women who live in arid regions — particularly in southwestern Morocco — have depended on this almost mythical tree. Its wood is used as fuel, its leaves and seeds as feed for goats. The tree has medicinal properties and its oil both nourishes and beautifies. Indeed, argan oil is reputed for its almost magical powers, but extracting it is difficult and time-consuming." --Narjis Rerhaye, Moroccan journalist

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Nothing adds to a road trip like the Moroccan Snake Dance

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Caroline gets some assistance applying traditional Moroccan mascara

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Mohamed Soudani gives a talk to the group on Berbers and the Sahara

Alex just called and left a message saying that en route to Imlil today the gang decided to stop and bargain for some Moroccan carpets. Sounds like it was a successful pitstop/shopportunity--most everyone now has a Moroccan carpet to bring home from the journey.

John

Posted by Global LAB at 6:57 PM | Permalink | Comments (1)

Where we were in the High Atlas

We have returned to Marrakesh after an adventure-filled four days in the High Atlas Mountains. Our challenging trek to Tizzi Oussem offered us some spectacular views around 2000 meters, and the genuine hospitality at the Berber gite (guest house) was welcome and rejuvenating. Each night, the stars were storybook-like in their abundance and glimmer. The geography, mud-brick architecture, natural surroundings, and very simple--but strenuous--lifestyle of these endearing mountain people provided us a very different dimension than our urban experiences to date. Our two days in another small village, Tassa Ouirgane, allowed us to be in a more stationary and observant frame of mind: we met scores of friendly and curious school children, the village's lone but committed teacher (who commutes from Marrakesh, about 90 minutes away), visited their wanting, windowless school, and were serenaded with a couple of songs they recently learned. Michele contributed numerous solar-powered calculators and pens that she had brought with her, and there was talk among the students of trying to raise money for some of the school's most pressing needs. We also met with four endearing Berber women in an informal roundtable and captured a glimpse of their very modest lives, needs (another cow, more rain), desires (some furniture), and dreams (visiting America got top billing here). Some of us also observed an initial meeting of the men's village association--at night, powered by gas lamp. Finally, we visited a women's carpet-making cooperative in Asni which has improved the lives of many women who were previously unemployed; in a notable gesture promoting sustainable development and ecotourism, this co-op was recently engaged by Richard Branson's new, nearby luxury property, Kasbah Tamadot, to create all its carpets.

I would suspect that most of us descended the mountains with renewed awareness of our fortune and privilege. The kindness emblematic of The High Atlas has no apparent material origin.

Posted by Alex Safos at 9:26 AM | Permalink

Amelia and Berber Friend

Visiting with village school children

Greer masters the Moroccan tea pour technique

Juliana and Berber friend

Tassa Ouirgane Womens Talk

Posted by Global LAB at 1:14 AM | Permalink | Comments (2)

Amelia tries her hand at the potters' souq

One of Fes' renowned tanners toiling in the medina tannery

Margaret practicing calligraphy

Posted by Global LAB at 2:43 AM | Permalink

During the several days of bbblllooooggggg silence, the group "treked" (reality is we HIKED) up the mountain. After approximately 30 minutes we see the first couple of mules and donkeys go bye. I am initially shocked and surprised by how easy they manage to go up the mountain. Much easier then I can. After about three and a half hours of hiking, four bottles of water, and my chest starting to ache, Alex and I stop and decide to wait for two mules to come and get us. I was completely exhausted (this was my first ever hike) and quickly running out of water. As the rest of the group carried on, Alex and I slowly made our way from shady tree to shady tree. Eventually we saw one mule coming down the mountain after passing through the pass at the top. Alex gives a joyous exclamation that we are saved and waves to the man on the donkey. I ask him why they brought only one donkey when we asked for two. I then claim that it probably is not our donkey/mule. Once the donkey is near, Alex deflates and admits that indeed, it is not our mule. We return to our tree and wait another 45 minutes before the mule and donkey arrived along with a huge bottle of water which is greatly needed. I am helped onto the mule and start up the mountain. As the beloved mule climbs up the steep and slippery slope I hold onto the reins and rural saddle for dear life. I think to myself "hold on, lean forward" as the mule jumps and lurches onto the next rock. "Please do not slip" I pray as I look down at the abyss below. I then become engrossed in watching the mule pick its way through the rocks and up the slope. I see it eye one rock pivet and climb up the next. Once Alex and I reach the top we join the others for lunch, arriving to everyone's applause. I dismount, not very gracefully, and converse with my mother who took the mule up after the first mule train. She and I both agree that we have discovered our new favorite animal and have a great respect for it. Mules are our friends. Mules ROCK!

Posted by Stephanie at 7:35 PM | Permalink

My homestay experience was wonderful. I realize I am lucky to have lived with a family of seven who maintain both traditional values and new perspectives enough to accommodate American students.

I am grateful to those who found the families as well since, in sharing their friends, they created new friendships for us.

I hope every other group had such a satisfying experience. The amount of food we were given was enough proof of my family's hospitality.

Though the younger children could not really communicate with us, their acceptance of us was extremely important to me. According to their mother, the combination of their summer vacation and our presence excited them and kept them from sleeping. I hope they aren't tired now, but I loved that they were awake and happy and spending time with us.

Basically, I'm glad we didn't opt out of the homestay.

Thanks all!

Posted by at 7:53 PM | Permalink

The Bab Boujeloud Gateway to the Fes Medina

Our last leg in Fes was not for the weary: homestays (and their late-night dinners surfeit with hospitality); medina wandering, touring, and shopping; a lecture on gender issues in Morocco; an intro to Arabic calligraphy--including making your own bamboo instrument and writing your name in Arabic script; a luncheon with two Fassi women of note--an accomplished artist and female activist; and our farewell henna party (accented with an Andalusian musical duo) demanded that we tap into our energy reserves. Some of us succumbed to Fassi Belly and malaise, but we rallied. And we survived the "Hotel" Cascade. Say no more. Except that tea and pastries at Palais Jamais and the pool at Hotel Splendid should have taken some of the edge off....

=
A Perfect Pair

To counter the anti-couscous coup, we even worked in a tasty dinner at a Ville Nouvelle pizzeria. And lunch at McDonald's--where the "Big Tasty" combo got served up with cumin and where the interior woodwork is of artisinal caliber; it was curious to note the more exuberant Arabic tag line of "I Love All of It" instead of "I'm Lovin' It". Zween.

In the famed medina, the potters' souq and tannery were the sites of much bargaining for striking ceramics and stylish footwear. And our private tour of Medersa Bou Inania--with rooftop access--was a rarely granted bonus. This aerial perspective on the serpentine alleys, the late p.m. soft lighting, and the rising atoms of sound and smell from below were declarative Fes statements. At the restored Riad Louna, our bon voyage dinner of sweet chicken bastilla and lush tomato and pepper salads was a fitting farewell to Morocco's fresh and delicious cuisine.

Continue reading "Fes Finale & A Safe Return Home" »

Posted by Alex Safos at 10:36 PM | Permalink

I have attached a few audio capsules that capture different moments from our trip: a walk through Marrakesh's Djemaa el Fna at dusk; the Group Ululation concert at Arabesca; segments from the Sufi dhikr, including the call to prayer; a segment from the "darija" Arabic lessons; and a couple minutes featuring our Andalusian musical duo from the henna party. I hope these morsels serve as virtual transports whenever you need a Moroccan fix or when you just long for a familiar sound or two from our journey.

Alex

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Ululation Frenzy

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Sufi Dhikr "Qaseeda" (ode)

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Sufi Dhikr Call to Prayer

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Djemaa el Fna at dusk

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Andalusian Musical Duet

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Shouf, Zween, and Yalla - Darija Arabic Lessons

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Sufi Dhikr "There Is No god But God" chant

Posted by Alex Safos at 5:40 PM | Permalink