Morocco: Culture & Ecology, Spring 2008

It has been a bit over week that we have been back in our 'home city' of Fes. We returned on the 14th and essentially jumped back into our ISPs and Arabic lessons the next day. Because most of my original family has moved to the States, I have been put with a new family in the same neighborhood who are just as nice and hospitable as the last. Each of us has been doing our ISPs including photography, cooking, medina restoration and increased Arabic as well as working at a local H'noot, which is essentially the Moroccan version of a 7/11 except they are very compact, but can be found everywhere. Zoe, Chris and I have been taking turns working with Abdu a Hnoot owner who is also son to Zoe's homestay mother. Working at the H'noot and simply speaking with Abdu has given each of us a perfect opportunity to improve our language skills as well as learn anything we wish to know about the culture from politics, economics, music, etc.

We have also attended quite a few good lectures in the past weeks. One interesting lecture was given to us by a Fulbright student studying in Fes whos was using her grant to examine the success and extent of a government program implemented following the 2003 Casablanca bombings aimed at curbing the spread of radical Islam, particularly in areas it can easily fester. The program entailed training women (called Morshedat)to be specialized Islamic 'guides' to be stationed in mosques and use their knowledge, and through social services, promote a 'moderate' version of Islam. Based on her research in Fes, she contended that while the main goal of the program (combating terrorism) is good, it is hampered by the fact that is not very well known or understood by the general Moroccan populace, as well as being viewed as highly political because of the way the program has been lauded in the West for its 'empowerment' of women as religious leaders. We also had an interesting lecture earlier today with Niaz, a knowledge Muslim scholar studying the legendary Karaouine University in Fes, as well as Mariam, a deeply insightful Moroccan woman who runs SACAL-Fes, an association that has facilitated the majority of our activities. Our lecture was centered around the idea of 'Islamic Law': what it is, how it is has been adapted and applied in the modern world. We discussed Islamic law in Morocco, including the educations system to the family laws to the usage of mosques. Niaz spoke upon the drastic change in mosque usage after the Casa bombings. He spoke upon the government's monitoring and enforcement program of closing mosques 15 minutes after prayer. Not all, but the majority of Moroccans who have participated either in acts of terrorism, or have become insurgents in Iraq, have come from predominantly impoverished 'bidonvilles' or slums. Lack of proper education, job training, and high unemployment and youth allowed these areas to become extremely vulnerable to radical Islamic recruiters, and is thus why the government has taken such action. However Niaz contends that while the laws over mosques, and programs such as that of the Morshedat, can help prevent terrorism and radical Islam in the short term, it also makes it exceedingly difficult for the broad discussion and interpretation of Islam and Islamic law he feels is necessary to ultimately defeat radicalism, while also driving those looking towards extremism, and those looking for others to embrace it, deeper underground.

I have also been doing regular Modern Standard Arabic lessons in addition to Moroccan Arabic. This weekend we will have a rare opportunity to give a lecture of our own to high school students studying English in the town of Sefrou, close to Fes, on American culture as well as initiate discussions within different groups concerning Moroccan and American culture.

Our fearless leader Kempie braving the treacherous sands of the Sahara.

-Charlie