B'slama
A couple of pre-depature photos taken in Granada before heading to the airport.
May 17, 2008
May 15, 2008
Dilapidated grandeur of Tangier
Tangier needs a new coat paint. Every building seems a bit run down, overworked from the year of housing wild fun of the international zone years. The medina is distinct from any that we saw in Morocco, the medina has buildings with Spanish type architecture or a Catholic church. The Anglican church of St. Andrew outside the old medina has a particularly interesting look. It was a gift to the queen in the in the late 1800's, I think 1883, but the design of the church is very Arab. The ceiling over the alter is the traditional woodcarvings with zoic patterns. Plaster carvings frame the alter with Arabic calligraphy. The Lord's Prayer is in Arabic script. The steeple is square, like a minaret, with zelig patterns on each side. Also in Tangier we visited the American Legation, a US Department of State property. This palace was a gift to the US from the sultan of Morocco in c. 1831. The Legation is currently a museum to Moroccan-US relations and displays artwork of Moroccans and European or Americans with a connection to Tangier. It also has a library open to Moroccans studying English and gives literacy lessons to local women. There is a tribute to Paul Bowles and some lovely Berber rugs.
Tangier was our last taste of Morocco. I already miss greeting Moroccans with Salom, Labaas, Kulshi bixir, hamdu'allah. I wish to return one day soon insh'allah. Only a days travel from the US and I am in an immensely different culture. I know the medina of Fes better than any city in the world. I hope that Morocco is somewhere in my future.
Recipes
It's been a while since I last blogged, so first I'm just letting everyone know that I and the rest of the group are alive and well. At the moment we're sitting in a bus station in Sevilla, so I'm taking this opportunity to type up some of the recipes I got during my cooking ISP with Hajja Fatima.
Lentils (3diss)
Soak 1.5 kilos dried lentils for an hour
Put them in a pressure cooker with a liter of water over medium heat, and boil for 20 minutes
Peel and chop three small tomatoes and one small onion
Add tomatoes, onion, ½ tsp imitation saffron, about a cup of chopped parsley, 1 ¼ tbsp olive oil, 2 tbsp canola oil, and 1 ½ teaspoon each of pepper, paprika, and tumeric
Boil everything together, then turn down heat
Cook on low for 30 minutes
Uncover, add a cup of hot water, bring to a boil again
Add a tbsp salt, and serve with bread
Harira
Soak 1 c. chickpeas
Skin them and put into a pressure cooker with a small onion (chopped)
Dampen 1 c. dry lentils and add to the pressure cooker
Add 3-4 c. water, cook on high for 30 minutes
Grate 4 tomatoes
Mash a large handful of parsley tops with 2 tbsp salt until it has a paste-like texture
Put the parsley paste in a pot with a heaping tbsp pepper and 1 tbsp olive oil, add 8 c. water and cook on medium heat
Add ¼ tsp imitation saffron, 1 c. dry rice, grated tomatoes, and 1 tbsp butter to the parsley pot
Mix a small can of tomato paste with water, add to the parsley pot
Mix 1 ½ c. bread flour with 2 c. water
Add the lentil pot to the parsley pot
Add pepper to taste
Slowly pour the flour mixture into the pot, stirring constantly
Mix well, cover, and cook for ½ hour
May 13, 2008
Cordoba
We spent all day today taking in the sights in the historic and beautiful city of Cordoba. In the morning, we explored the wonders of The Mezquita in mostly silence. The silence was only broken by a morning mass held in the active Cathedral part of the Mezquita. Following the Mezquita, we visited a unique synagogue with Arabesque plaster carving and Hebrew calligraphy. We also strolled the extravagant gardens of the Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos (Castle of the Christian Kings). In the afternoon, we all enjoyed a fun and educational tour at the Living Andalusia Museum in the Torre de la Calahora.
In our spare time, we have been sampling Andalusia's finest foods - gazpacho, tortillas (with potatoes and eggs), and of course churros con chocolate - not to be missed!
Tomorrow morning, we will visit Medina Azahara, an ancient city that was abandoned shortly after construction - it would have been the largest city in Western Europe of that time. In the afternoon, we will move on to Granada - our final destination of the semester. Cultural and historical jewels wait for us there - Alhambra, Albayzin, gitanos, flamenco....
May 11, 2008
Off to Espana...
We have had a busy three days here in Tangier - our last days in Morocco. Tomorrow, we will cross the Straits of Gilbralter to Spain and by the evening we will be in Cordoba. More details (and pictures) to come about our last adventures in Morocco and the adventures to come in Spain...
May 08, 2008
Practice of Fes Sufis
Sufism, or the mystical practice of Islam, has a vibrant place in the spiritual life of Morocco with Fes as the heart of this tradition. Sufism is an extra practice for a Muslim, above Faith and adherence to the Shar'ia. It is by choice that some people choose this greater spiritual path to achieve, ultimately, Sanctification or the admission into Paradise before the Sufi dies. Many Sufis do not attain such spiritual heights, but those devoted to the practices gain greater peace and closeness to the divine.
I was privileged enough to observe Sufi practice at a zawiya (a shrine to a Sufi saint or marabout. It has a blessing from the saint after death, called Baracka, which gives the invocation greater spiritual power) in Fes with Niaz; a Canadian Muslim who is teaching English at the American Centre. In Morocco, non Muslims are not allowed to enter Mosques or zawiyas because of Morocco's interpretation of Islamic Law. Niaz asked a local muezzin (prayer caller) who regularly attended this invocation, if it would be acceptable to make an exception for me. His first inclination was no, but he eventually agreed that it would be fine as long as I bathe before attending, where a djellaba (traditional Moroccan robe), and cover my head.
My night started with the difficulty of trying to find a Taxi at night in Fes. Luckily the kindness of Moroccans was with me. Two men flagged down a petit taxi with one passenger for me, and fortunately his destination was not out of my way. The petit left me off a little before 8:00 pm at Bab Guissa, my rendezvous point. I waited for a minute, then slipped into my new djellaba feeling a little self conscious about wearing the traditional Moroccan dress.
May 06, 2008
It's Very Blue Indeed
We had a great few last days in Fes; the culmination fo which was the homestay party where the students shared their appreciation for their time in Fes and the families that cared for them so well! It is always hard to leave our home-base of Fes, but everyone is enjoying the cool mountain air here in Chefchaouen.
A small city nestled in the Rif mountains (the northern most range of Morocco), Chefchaouen's medina is known for its beautiful pastel blue walls. Originally the walls were green (a charasterisitic Muslim color), but we repainted this soft calming blue by Jews in the 1930s. Chefchaouen has a long history of Jewish and Muslim influence (as both populations moved into the community during the Spanish Inquisition). Chefchaouen also has a distinctive Spanish/Andalusian feel (as compared with most cities in Morocco) since the city was once under Spanish occupation.
Literally the town's name (shoof-chaouen) can be translated as "look at the horns" (or peaks of the moutains that tower over the city). Tomorrow that is exactly what we plan on doing by taking a day hike into the surrounding rural areas to gain a better understand of how the Amazigh (Berber) population here differs from that in the Middle Atlas and the High Atlas/Souss Valley.
On Friday, we will head to Tangier before moving on to Spain. Time is passing quite quickly these days.
May 04, 2008
Morocco is like a Tajine
Here are some photos from the Fnaire & Rhany concert. Highlights included the enthuastic crowd, Rhany's dance moves and, of course, a Fnaire song equating the diversity of Morocco to a tajine.
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May 02, 2008
Our Last Days in Fes
This past week, we have been busy as usual...taking in every last bit of Fes as we head up North on Tuesday. This morning, we finished up our medina restoration activities with a plaster carving workshop in the Attarine medrasa (a Quranic school which has been closed to the public for the last few years for renovation and restoration) - quite a rare opportunity!
Afterwards, we took a group trip to Art Naji, an artisan factory where Chris has been apprenticing under a zellij (Moroccan tilework) malem (master).
Charlie tries his hand at the art form, chipping away...
Omar explains the process of creating a finished zellij piece to the group
Chris tries out a new craft - his interest and talent for such crafts never ceases to amaze. Watch out New Hampshire, Chris is going to revolutionize interior design (woodcarving, zellij, carpet weaving, the works)!
This afternoon, Zoe, Chris, and I saw an impressive art exhibit presenting photographs from around the world -from Morocco to South Africa to Siberia - it was quite diverse to say the least!
Tomorrow, the students will continue their ISPs and in the evening we will attend a Moroccan rap/hip-hop concert - it should be mumtastic (a new word I have created from fantastic and mumtaz -a Modern Standard Arabic word for excellent)!
If you want to check out their music: http://profile.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=user.viewprofile&friendid=175921284
April 30, 2008
Where are the Jobs? A Cross-Cultural Dialogue
This morning, we attended a lecture and round table discussion on the issue of unemployment in Morocco at a local university.
Local university students explain their concerns for the future and discuss possible solutions.
Charlie, Audrey, Zoe, and Chris share their insight on U.S. unemployment and engage the Moroccan students to explain how the issue compares in Morocco.
April 29, 2008
Our Last Day at Ahli
Yesterday was our last day volunteering with the street kids of Ahli. We created a handprint mural to remember our time together.
April 27, 2008
Cultural Exchange in Sefrou
This morning we ventured to Sefrou, a small city half an hour away from Fes, to assist in a English language program hosted by the U.S. Government and the Moroccan Association of Teachers of English (MATE). In addition to providing these students with access to native speakers, the Global LAB students gave these Moroccan English language learners a taste of U.S. culture. From Thanksgiving and birthday cake to hip-hop and indie rock, Charlie and Zoe discussed U.S. holidays, food, and music.
Chris and Audrey discussed the U.S. system of education and leisure activities.
We also learned about the Moroccan system of education, talked about couscous and tajine, and heard about the Sefrou cherry festival. It was a wonderful exchange!
This afternoon, everyone will engage in their ISP activities – Zoe and Audrey will “bust a medina move” at bellydancing, Charlie will continue to enrich his Modern Standard Arabic language skills, and Chris will create another zellij (Moroccan tilework) masterpiece.
With only a little over a week left in Fes, the students will spend the next week finishing up their Moroccan Arabic (darija) classes, bring their ISPs to a close, and find their last treasures wandering the ancient Fes medina (at least for now). In addition, we will have a lecture and round table discussion on unemployment at the local university and learn more about Fes medina restoration. Next Sunday, we will attend a Moroccan flamenco concert to prepare us for our Andalusian excursion in a couple of weeks.
April 26, 2008
Fes Festival of Sufi Culture
On Thursday night, we attended the final concert of the Sufi Cultural Festival in Fes. It was quite a sight and the music was enjoyed by all!
April 25, 2008
Dar Amra
Just a quick post to say it's great to be back in Fes! I returned to Haja Fatima's to find a new set of relatives staying there. Naima, Haja's daughter-in -law (who happens to also be her niece....I think..) and her son Talal have joined the rotating cast of people staying at my homestay house. Abdou, Haja's son, and his wife Fatiha and three little children are also currently visiting, and about two days ago Haja's friend came to help teach Audrey's cooking lesson and has seemingly moved in for the week. It certainly is a full house, or as Haja Fatima described it to me in darija, "dar amra." I have been spending lots of time playing with the kids and will try to post some more pictures soon!
Back In It
It has been a bit over week that we have been back in our 'home city' of Fes. We returned on the 14th and essentially jumped back into our ISPs and Arabic lessons the next day. Because most of my original family has moved to the States, I have been put with a new family in the same neighborhood who are just as nice and hospitable as the last. Each of us has been doing our ISPs including photography, cooking, medina restoration and increased Arabic as well as working at a local H'noot, which is essentially the Moroccan version of a 7/11 except they are very compact, but can be found everywhere. Zoe, Chris and I have been taking turns working with Abdu a Hnoot owner who is also son to Zoe's homestay mother. Working at the H'noot and simply speaking with Abdu has given each of us a perfect opportunity to improve our language skills as well as learn anything we wish to know about the culture from politics, economics, music, etc.
We have also attended quite a few good lectures in the past weeks. One interesting lecture was given to us by a Fulbright student studying in Fes whos was using her grant to examine the success and extent of a government program implemented following the 2003 Casablanca bombings aimed at curbing the spread of radical Islam, particularly in areas it can easily fester. The program entailed training women (called Morshedat)to be specialized Islamic 'guides' to be stationed in mosques and use their knowledge, and through social services, promote a 'moderate' version of Islam. Based on her research in Fes, she contended that while the main goal of the program (combating terrorism) is good, it is hampered by the fact that is not very well known or understood by the general Moroccan populace, as well as being viewed as highly political because of the way the program has been lauded in the West for its 'empowerment' of women as religious leaders. We also had an interesting lecture earlier today with Niaz, a knowledge Muslim scholar studying the legendary Karaouine University in Fes, as well as Mariam, a deeply insightful Moroccan woman who runs SACAL-Fes, an association that has facilitated the majority of our activities. Our lecture was centered around the idea of 'Islamic Law': what it is, how it is has been adapted and applied in the modern world. We discussed Islamic law in Morocco, including the educations system to the family laws to the usage of mosques. Niaz spoke upon the drastic change in mosque usage after the Casa bombings. He spoke upon the government's monitoring and enforcement program of closing mosques 15 minutes after prayer. Not all, but the majority of Moroccans who have participated either in acts of terrorism, or have become insurgents in Iraq, have come from predominantly impoverished 'bidonvilles' or slums. Lack of proper education, job training, and high unemployment and youth allowed these areas to become extremely vulnerable to radical Islamic recruiters, and is thus why the government has taken such action. However Niaz contends that while the laws over mosques, and programs such as that of the Morshedat, can help prevent terrorism and radical Islam in the short term, it also makes it exceedingly difficult for the broad discussion and interpretation of Islam and Islamic law he feels is necessary to ultimately defeat radicalism, while also driving those looking towards extremism, and those looking for others to embrace it, deeper underground.
I have also been doing regular Modern Standard Arabic lessons in addition to Moroccan Arabic. This weekend we will have a rare opportunity to give a lecture of our own to high school students studying English in the town of Sefrou, close to Fes, on American culture as well as initiate discussions within different groups concerning Moroccan and American culture.
Our fearless leader Kempie braving the treacherous sands of the Sahara.
-Charlie
April 24, 2008
Learning from the Masters
Yesterday we visited a woodcarving workshop and spent a couple of hours learning the trade.
Zoe practices her new woodcarving skills
April 23, 2008
New Fes Family
I had a slight problem with my homestay arangement when we arrived back in Fes. Originally my Fes Family said that they would be in the Rif mountains durring this phase. But a week before I returned to Fes Kempie received an email that they would be in Fes durring this time and they wanted to host me. Wonderful, I would hit the ground running when I returned to Fes.
When the time came for our reunion, Kempie, Dana and I walked up to the store
They quickly explained that this was "musi mushkil" or not a problem, but we decided that it would be best if I stayed with the family downstairs in their building. So Kempie asked if they would host a stranger from the US for three weeks, and being a Moroccan family they agreed; again the warmth and ease that a family is willing to take in a student is just amazing.
So I have a new family here in Fes. I live in the apartment below my previous family with Unis, Bahdra, their parents and an adorable little girl named Nuhayla. I am learning considerably more Darija and french with this family because no one speaks English. Especially with the little girl, she only speaks Darija, but that doesn't stop her from talking on end for hours if I let her. Unis took me to the Hmmam on Monday, I had not been to the hmmam with a local before, and Unis is a hmmam expert. He ran around distributing water and rubbing the dead skin off other men's backs. He would occasionally catch me off guard by pouring a bucket of hot water over my head. He scraped my skin so thoroughly with my abrasive hmmam scrubby that I turned red. Things are going smoothly here in Fes, unfortunately the end of our time in Morocco is coming to a close.
April 22, 2008
Keeping Busy in Fes...Never a Dull Moment
Audrey engages the Ahli boys in a game of tag
Charlie apprenticing at a local h'noot
Chris makes sure the medina is restored right!
Zoe and Robert (from SACAL-Fez) discuss their photography
April 20, 2008
From the Spacious Boulevards of Rabat to the Labyrinth Zenkas of Fes
The Chellah
This morning after a fulfilling breakfast of melawi (a kind of fried pancake – a group favorite), we concluded our 2 night stay in Rabat. Some highlights included two lectures given at the Center for Cross-Cultural learning on Women's Rights, Islam, and the Moudawana (Family Code) and Moroccan Politics. We also enjoyed our visits to the Chellah, the Hassan Tower, the Mohammed V Mausoleum, and the Kasbah des Oudaias.
We also had the opportunity to indulge in some international food – we delighted in some Syrian, Chinese and Japanese food. We also had some excellent harira (Moroccan soup) to satisfy our Moroccan cravings.
This evening, we will enjoy some Jazz & Blues music at a local cafe.
This upcoming week, we will resume our community service activities with Ahli, a home for street children.. We also will attend a few more events of the Sufi Cultural Festival. In addition to occupying their time with their ISPs, the students will participate in two sessions of woodcarving and dabble in this ancient and refined art form.
April 15, 2008
Back Home in Fes
Yesterday we left Marrakesh and returned to our home base of Fes. Everyone is happy to be back in familiar territory again. We loved our journey in the South, but we're excited to spend the next three weeks re-engaging with Fes on a deeper level. The students resumed their darija (Moroccan Arabic) lessons this morning and have moved into their homestays again. Some have new families and some families are the same - I'm sure all will have enriching experiences! The students will begin their Independent Study Projects (ISPs) shortly. On Thursday, the week-long Festival of Sufi Culture will begin and we look forward to participating and observing some lectures, workshops, and musical performances.
On Friday, we will head to the capital city of Rabat for the weekend. While in Rabat, we will hear a lecture on Women's Rights and the recent reforms to the Family Code as well as on Moroccan Politics. We will also be visiting an ancient Roman ruin site (Chellah), the Mausoleum of Mohamed V, the incomplete Hassan Tower (which was intended to be the tallest minaret in the world) and we will find some time to sit and drink tea and eat sweets by the water in the beautiful Kasbah des Oudaias.
April 13, 2008
Images from Asdaghs Community Service
Planting several gardens at the highest school in Morocco (2,314m)!
Images from the High Atlas Trek
April 10, 2008
...Down from the Mountains
We just received a dispatch from Kempie, signaling the group's safe return to Imlil after several enjoyable days of High Atlas trekking:
"We just got back from our trek. Although the weather was not suitable for summiting Mt. Toubkal, we saw some incredible scenery and all are in good health. We head back into the mountains tomorrow for our two day community service project with Global Diversity Foundation. We will be planting some iris and cherry trees. I'll report more when we get back into Marrakesh on Sunday."
Global LAB Can't Get Enough of Those Tree-Climbing Goats!
Showing our love for those argan nibblers!
April 05, 2008
Into the Mountains
This morning we are heading into the High Atlas, the tallest mountain range in Morocco, and all are looking forward to our 5-day hike followed by a two day community service project planting gardens in a rural mountain village. We will be mostly out of contact until we return to Marrakesh next Sunday.
Off to enjoy some peace and tranquility. More to come when we return...
Carpet bagging
.One of the few things that I knew about Morocco before this trip was the Berber carpet. Since orientation I have been excited about the prospect of buying one of these beautiful rugs for myself. My culmination came in Marrakesh. the adventure began on Tuesday, Carpet buying, when done correctly, is a multi day process. Our Marrakesh maestro, Gita, brought us to one of her favorite carpet man, Shariff, on our tour of the souk. We were whisked upstairs by Shariff, served mint tea and looked at carpet after carpet. I quickly narrowed down the search to the Middle Atlas style Zemour, then just those carpets with the deeper red or Rouge Francaise, many were too busy until I found my carpet.
Gita constantly reminded me that I needed to fall in love with my carpet. I couldn't just like the carpet, I need to have a relationship with it. Our first meeting was not love at first sight, but it caught my eye. Not to busy, good color, three "pillars of wisdom" as Gita called them, and highlights of deep purple, very unique. I asked the price, trying to sound casual so as not to be eager. Shariff thought, "High quality rug, but you are a friend of Gita so 2,800 dh." or nearly 400 dollars.
we ended our first day, the group was hungry, I would return on Thursday to look at more rugs of a similar style and to negotiate a price. Thursday was the carpet auction, where the berber town folk come to sell their carpets to the dealers. Old men draped in ornate carpets moved from dealer to dealer, looking for the best price on a carpet. Before this started, I met another one of Gita's carpet men, who showed me more carpets, but I could not find another like the one Shariff had shown me.
Armed with the price of a competitors carpet, I went to find Shariff and bargain on my own. I looked at more Zemour carpets, but in the end it came down to My carpet. So the bidding began. He offered 2800, I said could we do better, 2600. A little chatting and I mentioned the other carpet that was less than this one. "Well the quality is not the same look." Shariff pulled out a lighter and lit the end of my rug on fire, but it didn't burn, just a bit of smoldering. Then it was the imitation, witch lit on fire and burned like yarn. Oh, well now I know what I am buying. I countered and stuck to my price. Eventually after a bit of, "oh I am a poor student," we agreed. He showed me the price tag that he had on my carpet, 12000 dh, that is Marrakesch. So he packaged it up I have to carry with for the remainded of Morocco, but with nowhere to admire it.
April 03, 2008
Soukin' it Up
Marrakesh's Djemaa El Fna comes alive as the sun goes down
This morning the students are wandering the souks (markets) - taking it all in - the brightly colored scarves, rich smelling spices, the noise of the daily life in the souk. In the afternoon, we will observe the process of carpet auctioning and then hear a lecture on Sufism by a local Sufi poet.
Our days in Marrakesh have been busy and have been quite hot! Our generous host, Gita, has been showing us around the city - giving some historical and cultural context to this fascinating place. We have spent our mornings visiting sites such as Dar Si Said, the Badii Palace, all of the various souks, 
as well as the Museum of Marrakesh and the remarkable Medrasa Ben Yousiff. 
In the afternoon, the students have been enjoying their Tachelheit lessons - they are catching on quickly and will put their skills to good use in the High Atlas next week. We have also spent many nights dining at Djemaa El Fna - sampling some of the best food Morocco has to offer and providing an ambiance unlike anywhere else in the world.
On Friday, we will attend a Sufi musical performance before heading to the High Atlas on Saturday for a week long trek.
Everything you need!
April 02, 2008
Images from Marrakesh
Recycled Tire Goods
Chris receives instruction from a metalwork artisan
Recreating a scene from Hitchcock's "The Man Who Knew Too Much" filmed at the Dar Essalam Restaurant
Traditional Garment Photo Shoot
Gnawa Gimbri Lesson
April 01, 2008
Impressions of Marrakesh
Marrakesh is one of the largest cities in Morocco's southern region, and certainly the most unique of Morocco. The city is home to rich diversity of Arab, African, and Berber influence. Physically it is much like many of Morocco's main cities with a 'new city' and a medina. However the culture is very different. It is the most heavily visited city in Morocco by tourists which has given life to its markets and cultural scene. The souk (market) of Marrakesh is sprawling with different shops from the typically modern pirated DVD stands to woodworkers using centuries old methods to create their products. Fabric, leather, and clothing shops are the most ubiquitous, giving the shaded markets an almost overwhelming sense of color. Dazzling jewelry and antique shops are also an enticing highlight of the souk. Aside from having the traditional garment and shoe wear stores, there are also a few innovative shops including one the furbishes furniture and interior items made entirely out of tires, from mirrors to chairs to tables and more. Another unique feature is the rug market which is home to many boutiques sporting Moroccan rugs from all over the country, with unique styles from many different areas and demographics of the country.
Even larger an attraction than the market is Jma al-Fna, a square in the center of the city that is home to dozens of food stalls, orange juice pressers, Moroccan storytellers, snake charmers, hustlers and more. The square is full of Moroccans and foreigners alike, and gets extremely crowded at night. It is common to see all sorts of entertainment happening in the square next to the food stalls. The stalls are consolidated into their own corner that number well over 50. Because they are so tightly packed and many serve the same, but delicious food, the waiters or "ushers" of each stall are very energetic about getting people to sit at their stall, some even attempt to block your way and push you into a seat. The meals are relatively cheap and of good proportions for a Moroccan meal.
We spent part of our day having our first official lesson in Tashlheet, a popular dialect of the Berber language which is an interesting mix of ancient Berber and Arabic. The language has only recently adopted an alphabet, as it has been a language of a culture based mainly upon oral and not literate tradition. Our teacher, Muhammed, also gave us a lecture the day earlier on Moroccan-Berber identity. He told a captivating and unique story about slavery in Morocco and his grandfather who had been enslaved even into the 1900s. He spoke of the lack of discussion of the topic of slavery, something scorned upon in "traditional Islam, in North Africa and the Arab world. He spoke on its continued presence into the 20th century and the lack of acknowledgment by Arabs of slave descendants in Morocco as well as Berber acknowledgment. He also touched upon a broader topic of emerging Berber identity that has been growing in Morocco since the 1930s when the French protectorate government of Morocco issue the "Berber Manifesto" decreeing Arabs and Berbers as separate people, in order to sow seeds of disunity in the non-French populous in order to defend against rebellion.
March 30, 2008
Images from Essaouira
Gnawa Jam Session
Chris learning some Gnawa dance moves
Chris heading to the "Castle Made of Sand"
Zoe and Dana with the view of Essaouira
Picking out our lunch at the fish market
Getting our fish ready for the grill
March 28, 2008
Riding the Waves in Essaouira
Yesterday we arrived in Essaouira with a short stop en route to visit the first and largest women's argan oil cooperative in Morocco. Yesterday, I oriented the students to the medium-sized fishing village of Essaouira. It has been quite windy here, but it is the windsurfing capital of Morocco!
This morning we headed out for a couple of hours of surfing - it was great fun! I think Zoe has found her calling! This evening we will partake in a little Gnawa music jam session. We will spend the rest of our time exploring the city, observing the fishermen at work, and perhaps a little beach walking if it warms up a bit.
On Sunday we will head to Marrakesh.
March 25, 2008
Chillaxing
In Taghazout...
Today we arrived in the beautiful, quaint village of Taghazout. It is incredibly peaceful here. We rented an apartment overlooking the beach for the next two days. It's refreshing to hear the waves crashing below us. It's the perfect spot for some reflecting and beaching. The town is dotted with surf shops and is fairly undiscovered by those outside of the surfing circuit. Just steps away the brightly painted fishing boats go out to sea to bring home their daily catch. Tonight we will cook up some flounder and veggies. Chris may even make us a little apple crumble!
On Thursday, we will head to another fishing town, Essaouira. Known as the windsurfing capital of Morocco, we will learn how to surf and enjoy some Gnawa music, which is Essaouira's current claim to fame (in addition to Jimi Hendrix spending some time there) since it is the spot where the International Gnawa Music Festival is held every summer.
Ait Benhaddou
M'hamid Nomad Festival
March 24, 2008
Learning From The Locals
Confusion ensued when we tried to use the telecarte to book reservations for our student-led trip to Taghazoute. Luckily, after several failed attempts, the patient teleboutique owner gave us a thorough how-to and reservations were secured!
Wet Sands of the Sahara
March 23, 2008
Back from the Desert
Our cheeks are all looking a bit rosier now that we are back from the desert - even thought the student were very adament in their sunscreen usage - no wrinklers here. We had a great few days in the desert and an interesting time at the Nomad Festival when we finished our camel trip. The festival is still in the workings, but we did see some good music! Tomorrow the students take the reigns of the program for the first-ever student-led portion of the Global LAB Morocco semester program. The plan is to head to Tarazought, a small fishing village known for its surf, just north of Agadir. More details to come...
March 20, 2008
Into the Desert of all Deserts, The Sahara....
Kempie sent us a brief dispatch, signaling the group's safe arrival in Zagora. On tap for the next few days: a camel caravan into The Sahara followed by a visit to the Nomad Festival which features artisans and musicians from southern Morocco. Check in soon for more details....
March 18, 2008
Sunny Day in the Todra Gorge
We arrived in the Todra Gorge last night and have been enjoying the peaceful palmary and magnificant gorge that surrounds us. Today we took a day hike through along the ridges of the surrounding mountains and back through the fertile palmary - where the locals are growing beans, figs, almonds, and dates (just to name a few). Tomorrow morning we will begin a long day of traveling down to the desert and we will begin our camel trek the day after tomorrow. Everyone is looking forward to it and enjoying the diversity of the South.
We will be out-of-touch while we are in the desert, but look forward to hearing about our adventures when we return!
March 17, 2008
Tinerhir Community Service
Chris befriends the local children
Zoe presents a box of books to a local association
Charlie, Chris, and Zoe participate in an intercultural map exchange
Chris acts out "football"
The group admires a locally made Amazigh quilt
A welcoming reception
Kempie runs into a fellow Colorado College alum in the Peace Corps
Out of Fes and Into the South
Charlie Tries On the Standard Mode of Transportation in Maroc du Sud
We are already a few days into our Southern excursion and have been exposed to very different environments than Fes. We left Wednesday by "Grand Taxi" to the towns of Ifrane and Azrou. Grand Taxis will take you over long distances however do not let the name fool you. They are simply normal sized cars as opposed to the "Petit Taxis" that will shuttle you around the city for a small price. So the six of us and our huge backpacks crammed into a Grand for an hour before we got to Ifrane. Ifrane is a very unique place to Morocco. It is completely styled like a Swiss skiing village with triangle roofs with ceramic tiles. The roads are very wide and pristine as are the homes. We got a chance to visit Al Akhawayn University (AUI) which is located in Ifrane. It is the only American style English speaking University in Morocco, home to Morocco's best and brightest, including our ever-popular in country coordinator Sara who is a grad student at AUI. AUI has an amazing campus including a beautiful library and olympic style swimming pool. The student body represents varying degrees of students; some international; some Moroccan in completely western attire; some in more Islamic clothing. However the atmosphere is very friendly and the students of different backgrounds seemed to interact well together. We also attended two very informative lectures of Moroccan musical history and geography.
After our visit to AUI we spent part of our day in Azrou, a nearby town. There we got to see a community development center run by AUI that helps gives medical services as well as career training. Afterwards we drove to a cedar forest where we got to see the famous Barbary Macaws, an endangered ape that dwell within the forest. There were about 20 visible in the clearing we drove into. Less than a minute after I exited the taxi with a shopping bag full of bananas, one of the monkeys leaped at lightning speed, snatched the bag and attempted to run of into to the forest, his fellow apes following in hungry pursuit. However because the monkey spilled most the bananas in his getaway dash and with the help of a local shopkeeper we were able to recover most of them. Afterwards we were able to keep them at bay by stomping our feet and hiding the bananas from sight and we were able to feed them. We also took a brief tour of the cedar forest and Sara spoke to us about some of the issues including deforestation and altercations with humans that threaten the Macaws, whose sole habitats are the Cedar forests. We then had a nice, relaxing lunch hosted by a Moroccan family in the area.
March 11, 2008
And We're Off...
Tomorrow we will leave Fes and head South. The students finished their first phase of darija instruction yesterday and are feeling more confident in their local language skills. This morning we visited a women's ironwork cooperative – the one and only in Morocco! The students wrap up their ISPs today and will reengage with their activities when they return to Fes in mid-April. Tonight we will celebrate and thank the homestay families with a small party – some laughter, smiles, and dancing to ensue (ensha'allah).
It will be hard to leave Fes – especially since the King, Mohammed VI is currently here. We all have become quite at home in the ancient medina here. But it is time to explore the diversity that Morocco has to offer...
First, we will head just an hour or so south to Ifrane. Ifrane is a place unlike any other in Morocco. It was built during the French Protectorate and this is evident by the alpine-style houses and even a ski resort in the area. There we will visit the campus of Al-Akhawayn University (AUI), an elite university modeled off of the U.S. system of higher education where all instruction is taught in English. It was founded by the late King of Morocco, Hassan II, and the King of Saudi Arabia, Fahd. On campus, we will hear a couple of lectures on Rai Music and Moroccan Geography. We will also visit the neighboring city of Azrou to learn about local environmental issues. Azrou is known for its beautiful cedar forests and the native monkey species, the Barbary Macaque.
By the end of the week, we will be in Tinerhir and Todra Gorge in the Dades Valley surrounded by lush palmary and Amazigh culture. There we will engage in some community service efforts, visit local artisans, and hike around the breathtaking gorge.
More to come in the weeks ahead...
March 09, 2008
Wrapping Up Our Time in Fes
We will begin heading south mid-next week. It's hard to believe our 3 week stay in Fes is coming to an end already! But we will be back in mid-April. Yesterday, we celebrated International Women's Day by getting some henna and learning a Moroccan wedding song at a local cafe. This morning the students continued their darija instruction and engaged in their ISPs in the afternoon. Tomorrow will be their last darija class and final visit with the local orphanage, Ahli, (until we return to Fes again).
Although the students will be sad to leave their families in a few days, everyone seems excited for our adventures in the South to begin...
Chris, artisan apprentice, takes on Zillij (Moroccan tilework) as his ISP
Zoe & Audrey Perform the Art of Bellydancing--and Bust a Medina Move!
Charlie and Zoe carve a bamboo "pen" for Arabic calligraphy
March 07, 2008
Events of the Weekend to Come
After a delightful couple of days in Meknes, we arrived back in Fes this morning and dove head first into a lecture on the Quran and Quranic Recitation. In the afternoon, we heard an enlightening lecture on The Role of the Hijab (the head scarf worn by many Muslim women). Tomorrow, the students will engage in ISP activity in the morning and in the afternoon we will celebrate International Women's Day at a local cafe with henna, bellydancing, and music. Yes, the boys are coming to support us beautiful women!
Observing a "luk-luk" (stork) atop a column at the Roman ruins of Volubilis
A Taste of Moroccan Hospitality
I had always heard about incredible Moroccan hospitality, and experienced it for myself to what I thought was its fullest extent. But how our group was received tonight, at Dr Mohamed Aissa's house in Meknes, was a step above anything I had previously seen.
As we had a free afternoon in Meknes, we rang up my Arabic teacher's brother. Before I left the US, my professor, known to us just as Ousted (Arabic for “teacher”), made me promise to drop in on his brother if we were ever in Meknes. At the time I didn't think it was likely, and told him so. But once the Meknes excursion started drawing closer and I realized that we would, in fact, have an extra afternoon, I sent an email to Ousted asking if his brother would like to have our group for tea. He responded quickly and, as a Moroccan, of course said that his brother would love to have us, and particularly that his niece would love to meet “one of her uncle's best students”. So this morning we called up Dr Aissa, and arranged to meet at Bab Mansur later in the afternoon.
We weren't sure what to expect, but when a well-dressed man pulled up right in front of the Bab in a big silver SUV, we knew that had to be him. He took us back to his house, where we were received by his wife and oldest daughter, Sophia. Sophia is 14 and in ninth grade, but speaks impeccable French and very good English, as well as of course darija and standard Arabic. Soon we met Omar, 9, and Huda, 5. After a tour of their grand, spotlessly clean house, we made ourselves comfortable in the living room and were served an extravagant tea- not only tea and coffee, but croissants, petit pain, khobz, a flaky, buttery cake, cheese, honey, jam, and olives. We stuffed ourselves and conversed mainly with Sophia, because she speaks English the best out of the family. Sophia was the ideal hostess: comfortable, engaging, very welcoming, much more mature than your average 14-year-old. Bob L'Eponge, the French version of Spongebob Squarepants, was on the TV, and hearing Spongebob and Patrick speak French amused us for longer than it probably should have.
We had expected to just stay for tea and meet the family and then be on our way, but they eventually convinced us to stay for dinner. Even though Sophia had to go out for a while, we were entertained by the little girl, Huda. She had just woken up from a nap, and was just bursting with energy, more of which she vented by attacking Chris and the occasional strangling attempt. Omar commented that Chris looked like Harry Potter, which cracked us up because we've been saying that for the past three weeks. Huda was going a bit nuts- I've seen little kids with a lot of energy, but really, nothing like this. Her expressions were almost cartoon-like; especially when she got mad at us, you could almost see the steam coming our of her ears.
Dinner was delicious, to say the very least. They accommodated the vegetarians with a soup of seven vegetables, and dessert was fruit salad. We stuffed ourselves, feeling badly that we hadn't thought to bring anything. At least we were able to amuse the family- Charlie asked if the soup had “luk-luk” (Arabic for “stork”) in it, just because it's such a fun word to use. They had a laugh over this for a good five minutes.
After we helped to clear up from dinner as best we could, we had to be on our way. With genuine regret, we had to decline an invitation to couscous the next day. They offered to put us up for the night, and tut-tutted when we explained that we already had a hotel. Before we could go, though, we were made to promise that next time any of us were in Meknes we would give them a call and stay with them rather than in a hotel. Multiple times we were assured that we were welcome back any time, and, unlike the majority of people who say that, I feel like they meant it. Cheek kisses were exchanged, and the goodbyes to these people that we had only met a few hours before were almost tearful, full of promises to come back and “inchallah!”s. Sophia saw us all the way to the door, and Mr Aissa drove us back, despite our protests that we could easily take taxis if it was an inconvenience. Now I feel like I have one more connection in Morocco besides my Fes host family, and despite the fact that “my Arabic professor's extended family” sounds like a very far-fetched connection, since it's my Moroccan Arabic teacher's Moroccan extended family, they feel like close friends after just one evening.
Asilah: Beaches and Hmmaming
The weather was gorgeous for our trip to Asilah. Clear and sunny every day, not balmy but a moderate temperature. When we stepped off the train at Asilah on Friday the mellow feel of a beach town immediately struck us. We walked a kilometer into town from the train station alongside sprawling beaches and the crisp Atlantic Ocean. We dropped our bags at the Bellvue hotel and ate lunch with a particularly annoying littler dog, then strolled the Medina.
Asilah's medina is small but but very intricate and charming. The walls were more castle-esque than Casablanca or Fes, with high ramparts, towers, crenallations, and cannon emplacements. The houses themselves were hap hazard and oddly placed like the other Moroccan medinas that we have visited, but the homes were white and many different shades of blue or green at street level. Asilah is known for an annual art festival, so many of the walls of the medina bear interesting murals. The median runs parallel to the sea on one side, providing gorgeous views of the sea from the its' high walls.
Saturday began with the rare opportunity for a sleep in. After rousing ourselves for some Malawi at 10:00 am, we prepared for a horse cart ride to paradise beach. We had strong horse and a driver that tended to push the limits of his animal, which Kempie did not appreciate As we left Asilah for the beach, we rode though a small shanty town outside of the city. It stood in jarring contrast to the clean streets along the beach and the work being done to attract foreign tourists. The scenery was beautiful, rolling green hills of grazing and farmland, with a small town and minaret placed perfectly on top of a hill in the distance. The terrain dropped sharply into the water, but the seaside cliffs ended abruptly, exposing a wide stretch of sandy beach.
The beach was spectacular, maybe the nicest I have ever been to. Large swells, refreshing water (meaning it was a bit cold) and barely anyone else on the beach made it a memorable couple of hours. I am accustomed to the crowded beaches of the Maine, New Hampshire or Florida. I never thought that such a perfect stretch of beach could not have too many people, sleazy beach arcades or high rise condos. It is nice to know that some beaches in the world have not yet been overrun.
The apres-beach party was held at the local hmmam, or public bath house. It was my first hmmam experience and wont be the last. This hmmam was broken down into a changing room were I stripped down to my bathing suit, then into three washrooms of increasing in temperature. The hottest room was nearly as war as a steam room, while the coldest was like a hot shower room. The men were extremely helpful in showing Charlie and me proper way to get water and where to wash. I was concerned about breaking some important rule of etiquette, but no such thing occurred. I spent most of my time in the hot room pouring cold water over my head. Many of the men would sprawl on the ground and take a nap or rub down a friend with the hmman scrubby It was great to take a long time to clean myself because generally a shower is an in and out routine. I made it a painstaking and involved process. I haven't felt that clean in years.
Asilah was a relaxing distraction from the intensity of Fes the we really enjoyed ourselves.
March 04, 2008
The Joys of Everyday Life in Fes
Yesterday we had an eventful day! After darija class, the students visited a local artist. To everyone's surprise, this local artist, Abdelkhalek Boukhars, owns a beautiful and unique palace. He was actually written up in the Sept. '02 edition of Conde Nast magazine. After the grand tour, he explained his art and inspirations.
In the afternoon, we engaged in another session with Ahli, a local orphanage for street children. We continued our art project and the students drew themselves in the future - where and who they want to be. All the children presented their drawings at the end of the session.
Tomorrow, we head to the ancient Roman ruins in Volubilis, the pilgrimage site of Moulay Idriss and the historic city of Meknes.
March 02, 2008
Back in Fes After a Weekend in Asilah
We had a wonderful weekend in Asilah - enjoying the laid back feeling of this quaint place. We spent our days exploring the medina. We also enjoyed the breeze in our hair during an eventful ride on a horse cart out to Paradise Beach. Most of us braved the slightly chilly waters of the Atlantic Ocean (on the other side). We finished our stay with our first experiences at the public baths, or hammams. Everyone embraced this cultural experience central to Moroccan life. The students are currently pursuing their Independent Study Projects (ISPs). This week will be filled with more darija lessons, meetings with ISP mentors, and an excursion to Meknes, Volubilis and Moulay Idriss.
February 28, 2008
"Shnu?"
"Shnu?"
This has been the most common phrase I have heard from my host family here in Morocco, as well as people on the street. Simply put, it means what. This is not to say that communication is absent, but rather there is an apparent language barrier between primarily English speakers and people in the Arab world. I have been fortunate enough to have been placed with a host family of whom two speak English very well. However Arabic is still the main mode of communication, especially during meal times. My familiarity with French has helped me communicate with my host mother, as well as express my never ending questions about Arabic words. So far my homestay has been a great experience. Moroccan families are traditionally very hospitable and accompanying of guests which makes for a very comfortable experience.
We first came to Morocco via Casablanca, Morocco’s most populous and industrial city. We enjoyed a comfortable stay, visiting both the medina and Hassan II mosque, the third largest in the world. After two nights we travelled to Fes by train where we are staying for three weeks with homestay families in the medina. Casablanca is not as "alluring" compared to Fes’s large, ancient medina. However it is certainly vital for Morocco’s economic growth.
Like most of Morocco’s main cities Fes is separated into a ville nouvelle, or new city, and the medina, referring to consortium of centuries old stone houses and buildings. Fes’s medina is a city within a city comprised of many neighborhoods with equally random, confusing streets. In is in this medieval labyrinth that we reside. We are staying with middle class Moroccan families whose houses compliment the bizarre layout of their medina. Each house has a foyer onto which all floors go around. Almost wall in the house in lined with couches which is great for napping however rare the chance to do so is.
Our ISPs are beginning to take shape. Each one of us had a meeting with a mentor today in order to get our feet wet and begin honing our specific interests. Our ISPs varied from discussions of the intricacies of Islam, conversational French, belly dancing and political Islam in Morocco. I began my ISP by meeting with Niaz, an extremely knowledgeable scholar on Islamic history and studies. We discussed a wide range of topics from the origins of terrorism, nationalist Arab movements and the advent of Islamic fundamentalism. One of the area’s that we touched on in our discussion was that of "traditional Islam." Traditional Islam, not in the sense of literal adherence to the Qu’ran, but rather what Islam is meant to be, a religion based upon achieving spiritual peace and wholeness, a core idea that Niaz contends has been lost in the Muslim world during the past few centuries amongst a blur of nationalistic and malevolent forces. Niaz cites the presence of numerous volumes of Qur’anic commentaries and supplements that contextualize the verses of the Qur’an which radical movements have misconstrued for political and social purposes.
Morocco is truly a unique place in the Arab world. It is unique enough for being a crossroads between Arab and African culture, mysticism and Islam, and its proximity to the West. However Morocco is also an advantageous place to study Arabic language and culture both for its relative safety, owed in part to Morocco’s economic dependency of tourism, and for its francophonic quality. While it is rooted in colonialism, it does allow for those with knowledge of French to more readily navigate their way through the country and their studies. I can only hope Morocco does not become lost whether in booming tourism or other forces. As of right now it still holds the timeless charm it is famous for.
-Charlie
Heading to Asilah
The group will spend the next two days in the Northwestern seaside town of Asilah. We will pass our time by exploring the colorful medina dotted with murals painted by local artists and spend some time on the beach - catching up on our reading, journaling, etc. A little R & R to rejuvenate us for another busy week in Fes to come.
February 27, 2008
Giving Back to the Community
After a week of getting settled in Fes, the students are beginning to feel at home in their new community. Since Fes is our home-base for the program, we involve ourselves in various activities to reciprocate the kindness of our hosts. In addition to daily cultural exchanges with their homestay families, the students also volunteer at a local orphanage for street children, Ahli, and participate in medina restoration. On Monday, the students engaged in a soccer game with the boys from Ahli. Even with our best skills, the 8 years olds had us beat! It was great fun! Afterwards, the students led a creative drawing activity. This morning, the students participated in their first medina restoration project with a local organization which assists in repairing medina houses to their original glory using traditional materials. As a city that has survived the ages, Fes is a fascinating place. In order to maintain this historical and spiritual place, restoration is a continual process. Today, the students got their hands dirty. They laid bricks, shoveled ans sifted sand, mixed mortar, and chipped away at the aged walls in order to rebuild a solid foundation.
This afternoon, we will learn the ancient and patient art of Arabic calligraphy.
February 26, 2008
Fes Family
We have been in homestays for a few days now, here is the rundown on my family. My father’s Name is Abdurrahman, he teaches biology at a school in the Medina. He is a very funny man who loves to talk about Moroccan culture. The first day in his house I watched hours of Moroccan traditional music. Our favorite so far is Andulus, which was brought to Morocco after the Moors were kicked out of Spain. My mother, Fatima, is a very sweet woman who keeps her house in impeccable shape. She works harder than anyone else in the family. She doesn’t speak any English and very little French, but we have found our own ways of communicating. I have two brothers, Ahmed and Ottman. Ottman, 16, is big into soccer always practicing some moves with a wadded piece of paper. Ahmed is 11 or 12 and, as his mother says daily, the crazy one in the family. He is always being a joker. His English skills are very good, especially for a Moroccan boy his age. He is always asking me questions like, “what is warm,” or “how do you pronounce environment.” They are a really fun bunch.
One of the interesting things is about a Moroccan family is the passion with which they speak to each other. Sometimes a conversation can become very heated, to the point where I swear that someone is being reprimanded. Usually it is not the case; the conversation has simply escalated into a heated debate. Another interesting cultural difference is the Moroccan reaction to the cold. I cannot walk around the house without my slippers on or wearing long sleeves, or else I will catch a cold. It is really funny because I come from a much colder climate than Morocco in February and I am constantly stripping down as the day goes on.
My house is more of a western apartment layout than of traditional Moroccan riyad. The décor is more traditional, tile floors with ornate tile going up the sides of the interior walls about seven feet. The ceilings are high as in most Moroccan homes; I would guess about twelve feet. Also my family does not like things to be very bright. The shades are always drawn during the day, even at night the very few lights are turned on. Something that I really like is the Moroccan couches. They are thick cushions stuffed with wool set along the walls with cushions along the back. They are excellent for sleeping (especially after lunch when my family and I take our daily afternoon nap) or watching TV.
We are having a great time together; my next step is to introduce my idea of baking an apple pie for them.
February 24, 2008
Fes Medina Tour
The students have spent their weekends getting comfortable in their homestay. As you can see from Zoe's post, all are eating well! This morning we took a tour around the ancient Fes medina. We wandered through the crowded streets - occasionally being side swiped by donkeys (as the streets can get quite narrow at some points). Donkeys carry their weight and then some in Morocco. We visited the oldest university in the Islamic world, Quarouinne. We also saw the tanneries, learned about Moroccan weaving, got a glimpse of the Moulay Idriss' mausoleum, took in the rich smells at a local herbalist shop, and enjoyed some local nougat sweets. Tonight we will have dinner together at one of the homestay houses. Tomorrow, the students will resume their darija classes and we will spend the afternoon volunteering at a local organization for street children.
February 23, 2008
Schbete
Lunch today was a spread of cucumber and tomato salad, bread, zalouk, french fries,and a big pot of lentils. Oranges were on a platter for dessert. After eating my share , Haja Fatima, my homestay mother, plopped another orange in front of me.Apparently I had devoured my orange a little too enthusiastically and she had noticed I enjoyed it.
Kuli! encouraged Fatima.
I responded by patting my stomach and clumsily using the darija word for full, schbete.
Kuli, kuli, Fatima insisted.
I reached for the orange but not before stressing, shweya. Its not a big deal youd think, eat a few more wedges of orange. Be a good sport. But these oranges are gargantuan, the size of my head. Not terribly energy-rich but these massive beauties easily take up all the room in my stomach simply by sheer volume. I slowly peeled the orange as Fatima looked on. After gulping down a couple more wedges I put the rest down. My stomach throbbed as its walls were stuffed to their absolute maximum capacity.
Schbete, humdolillah, I said convincingly. Fatima nodded in approval.
She then gestured to me and said something in darija. I turned to Fatiha, her daughter-in-law, and asked in French what Fatima had just said. Fatiha laughed and responded in choppy French that Fatima had commented that I was too small and that she, Fatima, wanted to make me big like a Moroccan woman.
As I smiled at Fatima, I thought, please, dont.
February 22, 2008
Orientation Slide Show
Hey Everyone,
Thao's created an audio/slide show from VPT (focusing on India students b/c she's heading to Agra and Jaipur in March).
Remember VPT? It was only a week ago that we were all in Connecticut....
John
(in NYC, where there's half a foot of snow on the ground)
Getting Settled in Fes
We arrived in Fes three days ago and have been getting our bearings in the city. In addition to medina exploration, the students have begun their Moroccan Arabic or darija lessons. They are catching on quite quickly! I'm impressed! We have also heard a talk on general Moroccan culture, where the students got to ask some questions regarding cultural norms. This morning I dropped all of the students off at their homestay families. Right now, the students are surely enjoying some Moroccan couscous (usually eaten every Friday) and forging meaningful connections with their new families.
This weekend, the students will continue to get settled in their new houses and we will have a guided medina tour exploring the rich sights, smells, and sounds of the historical old medina.
Salaamu alaikum All
It’s been a rainy day in the Fes medina, but any damper that put on the day’s activities was allayed by the excellent sandwiches we had for lunch. I’m not sure about the others, but Zoe, Kempie, and I agree that these are some of the best sandwiches we’ve ever had. If it weren’t for this whole homestay family business I would be eating them three times a day every day; they make me very very happy. Of course the food is the first thing that comes to my mind about our short stay so far in Fes, but we’ve also started darija lessons and today we had a lecture on Moroccan manners, after a brief tour of the nouvelle ville. So far I think we’re all liking Fes a lot more than Casablanca- it’s got so much more charm, and you don’t feel like every cab driver on the street is out to get you just for a laugh. But of course the thing that’s on everyone’s minds isn’t the disappointing weather or the darija or even lunch- it’s our homestay families. We move in tomorrow. Tonight, after a Council/pep talk, we finally learned about our families. I think we’re all happy with the choices that were made for us. Nervous as well of course; I’m already resigned to the fact that the first day is going to be very very awkward. But the homestay is a critical piece of the trip, and probably what’s going to teach us more than any other part. So wish us luck for tomorrow morning!
In more logistical news, most of us got our cell phones working this afternoon. Families all got emails explaining how to call us, so please do! Soon we’ll email again, with the best times to call us inchallah.
Bislama,
Audrey
A Stroll Through the Medina
Many Moroccan cities are known for the old, walled part of the city, known as a Medina. Our hotel in Casablanca was a short walking distance from these ancient cities. The ally are barely wider than an American sidewalk and are packed with shopkeepers and food stands. The labyrinth of streets is an excellent place to get up close with the charm of a Moroccan city. We perused the local clothing and leather shops and purchased a few essentials. I found it difficult to control the impulse to purchase a leather camel or a hammam luffa. I did have to sample some of the treats of Morocco.
My favorite drink thus far has been the half milk, half coffee nus nus. Moroccan coffee is extremely strong and served in small quantities. The nus nus isn’t anything like a latte, but closer an espresso. Nus nus first caught my eye in a first walk through the medina of Casablanca. Two middle aged men were drinking a hot beverage in small glasses that was the color chai. I immediately had to try it. I am not a coffee drinker nor have I ever tried anything other than the American brews. This stuff has quite a kick but I am acclimating to its strength.
Another local treat I have taken a liking id fried snails. These little critters reminded me of the snails that once cleaned the sides of my fish tank. They are served in a small bowl with the broth and plucked out with a tooth pick. They resemble gray and black gobs of mucus and have a consistency somewhere between muscles and oysters. They are cooked with many strong spices, overpowering the flavor of the snail itself. Despite the strong taste, it makes a descent snack.
February 19, 2008
Greetings from Casablanca
We arrived safely in Casablanca yesterday and began our first day with a sampling of delectable Moroccan food as well as a tour of the old medina. We bargained for towels, sampled fresh strawberries, and ate some snails. This morning, we began our day with a tour of Hassan II Mosque, the 3rd largest mosque in the world and the only mosque in Morocco that non-Muslims can enter. We also explored the fish market – wandering through the market, we saw sharks, stingrays, and white fish for sale. The largest movement in the market was of sardines – crate after crate piled up along the port. We were lucky to see such activity at the port since the fishermen just got back to work today after a 23 day long strike.
In the afternoon, we visited the Jewish Museum, the only of its kind in the Arab World. We were fortunate to have the founder speak to the group and share his knowledge of the long history of Jews in Morocco. After a lunch of lubia (white beans), we spend a few hours at Solidaritie Feminine. This organization assists single mothers throughout Morocco. From professional development and legal support to childcare and counseling, the center provides much-needed assistance to those women who are marked by a large stigma in Moroccan society.
Tomorrow, we will visit Bayti, a home for street children, before heading to the train station. In the early afternoon, we will begin our 4 hour journey to our new home, Fes.
Kempie
Arrival and Thao's photos from orientation
Flights arrived on schedule, hotel check-in went smoothly, and the group has begun exploring the sites. Check back soon for participant posts. In the meantime, Thao has posted some of her photos from the VPT orientation on her own blog.
John
February 18, 2008
Here We Go....
Just back home to NYC after a great weekend getting to know Zoe, Chuck, and Audrey, and re-connecting with Chris. The last couple of days at student orientation were terrific--both Morocco and India semester students and staff showed up with excitement and great attitudes about the adventures that await.
Kempie called from JFK a few minutes ago to let us know that the group has cleared security and is getting ready to board their flight to Casablanca, via a quick layover in Spain. She will send a text message once they have arrived safely in Morocco and we'll update the blog accordingly.
The adventure begins.
John
February 16, 2008
Pre-Launch (Zero Hour)
Orientation has been fun and good preparation. It has been a good introduction to what we are going to do and where we are going to be. Hammams and mint tea await. Enshallah. Looking forward to some Barbary Apes stealing my food, ornery camels, rug shopping (of course), moments of silence in the Sahara, manning the walls of the Kasbahs, being serenaded by the Medina guide, and so on, including seeing goats in trees.
Ellie says, "hydration and toilet paper are awesome." And, "I am a fan of Morocco."
We are prepared to follow the famous Arab proverb, "Be in the world but not of the world."
Team TBA
ps We are alive and well in Voluntown, CT.
February 15, 2008
Bus Arrival Times in Providence on February the 15th
The Peter Pan bus departing New York City's Port Authority station at 1:30 PM will arrive in Providence Terminal in Providence, RI at 5:15 PM.
The bus departing at 3:00 PM will arrive at 6:45 PM.
February 13, 2008
Salam from Sara Ait Lmoudden, In-Country Coordinator
Salam O Alaikom-
I am Sara Ait Lmoudden, a graduate student at Al Akhawayn University in Ifrane, Morocco and this is my final year. I am pleased to be working with you as an In Country- Coordinator. I have served as a tour guide in the Middle Atlas for the Global Lab students who visited Morocco last Fall 2007. I am very excited that you will be coming to visit my country. I have been to the old Medina in Fes and I visited the homestay families and they are all looking forward hosting you. Right now, I am planning all the last moves for you before you arrive next week. I have already worked with similar groups in the past. I will also be guiding you through the Middle Atlas, a place to enjoy the mountains and absorb the local region- meet Berber women and men and eat Couscous in a Zawiyat not far from where I go to school. I am sure we will have a lot of fun this semester while learning and discussing the most urging questions you have.
Again, I am happy to be welcoming you to my country and hope that you will enjoy your stay. (In Chae Allah = God's willing)
Please fell free to contact me any time at: sara.aitlmoudden@gmail.com
Phone: 00 212 68 47 53 55
Salam-
Sara
February 06, 2008
Welcome Chris!
Chris Howe will be joining us in Morocco this semester. Chris was a student on Global LAB's India semester program last spring and has decided he's ready for an adventure in North Africa this spring. You can read about Chris and some of his experiences in India on that program's blog. Here is a photo of him standing in the Ganges and reflecting on his newfound love of Chai.
February 01, 2008
the things we carry...
It was great speaking to all of the Spring '08 semester participants recently! I look forward to an amazing, transformative experience!
I suggest that you all pick up a few books from the Global LAB reading list (or the reading recommendations in the Lonely Planet or Rough Guide - I recommend the Rough Guide's reading list in addition to the Global LAB one). At orientation, I will provide you with a reader of recent articles relating to various subject matters in Morocco.
So we are not all carrying the same books around, I encourage you to add a comment to this blog entry including the books that you are bringing, so we can trade throughout the semester. There will be plenty of time to enjoy some quality reading, so bring a few books each. You can donate them to local organizations to lighten your load on the way home (and make some room for souvenirs) if you wish.
I will be bringing The Sand Child, Welcome to Paradise, Mimoun, and Hideous Kinky.
I also recommend watching one or two of the films listed on the recommended reading list to give you a good visual image of what you are about to experience first-hand.
January 28, 2008
Morocco Spring Semester 2008 Daily Itinerary
Please note: this itinerary is planned months in advance and may change due to group interest, health and safety concerns, or other factors beyond the control of Global LAB.
In United States:
Feb. 15-17: Group orientation at Voluntown Peace Trust, Voluntown, CT
In Morocco:
Feb. 17-18: Flight--JFK to Casablanca (aka “Casa”)
Feb. 18-19: In country orientation, visits to key cultural and religious sites in Casa
Feb. 20-28: Arrival in Fes. 1-2 nights’ stay in hotel prior to home-stay placements, tour of medina; begin Fes home-stays; commence “Introduction to Moroccan Arabic” (“darija”) instruction, and cultural lectures; declare independent study projects (ISPs) and begin research; participate in initial medina restoration service project; begin community service with local orphanage.
Feb. 29-March 1: Excursion to Asilah on the Atlantic coast.
March 2-6: Return to Fes. Continue home-stays and “darija” instruction; participate in cultural lectures; continue ISPs and local community service projects.
March 7-8: Excursion to the adjacent Imperial City of Meknes; en route, tour the Roman ruins of Volubilis and the holy village of Moulay Idriss.
March 9-11: Return to Fes to complete this “Phase 1” of the semester. Conclude ISP research for this phase and finish home-stays.
March 12-13: Excursion to Ifrane & Azrou. Tour of Al-Akhawayn University (AUI) campus, an elite all-English university for Moroccans. Attend lectures on “Moroccan Anthropology” and “Moroccan Geography”. Participate in a guided tour of the Cedar Forest, the habitat of indigenous Barbary Apes. Engage in a community service activity—either with AUI’s affiliated Azrou Center for Community Development or Center for Environmental Issues and Regional Development.
March 14-16: The Sahara. Proceed to Merzouga and the fantastic dunes of Erg Chebbi—a portal to The Sahara Desert. 1-2 nights in the dunes via camel caravan.
March 17-19: Kasbah/Oasis country. Traverse this fabled stretch of southern Morocco and experience yet another geographic layer to the Kingdom; tour the impressive Todra Gorge, experience the stark tableaux of the Dades Valley; pass through the oasis of Tinerhir.
March 20-22: Three-day community service activity in the Skoura oasis with Coeur de Palmier village association.
March 23: Visit the well-preserved Kasbah of Ait Benhaddou.
March 24-April 1: Travel to Marrakesh, “The Rose City”. Tour the Marrakesh medina and the Djemaa el Fna. Begin an “Introduction to Modern Standard Arabic” and learn the Arabic script; participate in additional cultural lectures; observe a Sufi dhikr; continue ISPs or take up new topics specific to Marrakesh.
April 2-4: Excursion to the laid-back Atlantic coast village of Essaouira. Take a kiteboarding or surfing lesson and observe a Gnawa musical jam session. Continue ISPs.
April 5-10: High Atlas Mountain Trek. Arrive at Imlil “base camp”. Experience Berber hospitality and their rugged way of life by hiking through numerous valleys and, weather permitting, summiting Mount Toubkal, the highest peak in North Africa at 13,665 feet. Accommodations will be a mix of camping and overnights at “gites”, or simple Berber guest homes.
April 11-12: High Atlas community service activities in Imlil or nearby village – Details TBD.
April 13: Return to Marrakesh for overnight. Conclude cultural lectures and ISPs for this segment.
April 14-23: Re-integrate into Fes. First night at a hotel then recommence home-stays, ISPs, “darija” language instruction, cultural encounters, medina restoration service activities, and involvement at “Ahli” orphanage.
April 24-25: Rabat: Excursion to this Imperial City and seaside capital. Tour the medina and other cultural-historic sites. Attend 1-2 lectures by the Center for Cross-Cultural Learning.
April 16-May 4: Return to Fes for the finale to this experience. Conclude home-stays and bid farewell to home-stay families, present ISP reserach, conclude community service, “darija” instruction, lectures, and cultural encounters.
May 6-8: Travel to Chefchaouen in The Rif Mountains. Tour, trek, reflect. Day or overnight excursion into the countryside to witness “Jebeli” culture.
May 9-11: Continue to Tangier. Tour medina and coastal environs. Attend a lecture on Tangier’s artistic/literary allure in the 20th century. Also visit a “restaurant rehabilitator” for women.
In Spain:
May 12-13: Andalusia. Ferry to Algeciras, Spain via the Strait of Gibraltar. Transfer to Cordoba. Tour La Mezquita, Juderia, Cordoba Synagogue, Casa Andalussi and Torre Calahorra museum.
May 14-16: Granada. Tour Alhambra, Albaycin, the Cathedral. Seek live Flamenco performance. Prepare for re-entry.
May. 17: Return to US. Granada flight to Madrid then to JFK.
January 24, 2008
Independent Study Project (ISP) Possibilities
Hi everyone. I hope you are getting excited about our upcoming journey together! In the next few weeks I encourage you to explore what particularly interests you about Morocco. What would you like to study or explore further while in Morocco?
Here is a list of possible independent study project (ISP) topics. There are endless possibilities for ISPs, so use this list as a starting point for what subject matter you would like to dive into once we hit Moroccan soil. It's always helpful to give your ISP some thought before we arrive. The following ideas can be enriched with photographs, creative writing pieces, or a video or audio documentary, so tap into your creative source.
* Moroccan/Islamic Architecture
* Zillij Artistry and Artisans
∗ Fassi Pottery
∗ Moroccan Wood Carving and/or Painting
∗ Calligraphy
* Moroccan Music
* Moroccan Cuisine
* Moroccan Literature
* The medinas of Fes and Marrakesh: how to balance cultural
preservation and progress
* Manifestations of Islam in everyday Moroccan life
* Berber Identity: what is it and how it's being preserved
* Contemporary Art in Morocco
* The role and state of women in Moroccan society
∗ Popular Politic Thought – Islam & Democracy
∗ Bellydancing
* Darija (Moroccan Arabic dialect)
* French
Again, this list is just to get you thinking. I am excited to learn more about your interests and help you all find ISPs that will inevitably enrich your experiences in Morocco.
Please feel free to contact me at kempie@global-lab.org with any questions or concerns in the upcoming weeks.
Take care,
Kempie
January 21, 2008
Pre-orientation Travel to Providence
Hello Spring Semester Students-
For those of you who will be catching the bus at Port Authority bus
station(in NYC)on your way to pre-travel orientation it would be best if
you pre-purchase your ticket before you get to the station. You can do
this by following the steps described below. (Once you get to Providence
you will be met by Global LAB staff. Your travel arrangements and expenses
will be provided for from there through your departure for Morocco and
India.)
There will be a number of you meeting at the station. There are four
students signed up for Morocco and six students signed up for India and it
appears most of you will be joining the group via a bus ride from NYC to
Providence. If you familiarize yourself with the blogs you will see some
familiar faces when you get to the bus station!
To book a bus ticket to travel from the Port Authority bus station in New
York City to the Providence Greyhound Station in Providence, Rhode Island,
follow the convenient directions below:
1) Go to http://www.peterpanbus.com/tickets/fares.php
2) Select 'New York Port Authority NY' as origin city, and 'Providence
Terminal RI' as destination city and then click 'Continue'.
3) Scroll about halfway down the page to see the list of bus times. If
you wish to purchase an electronic ticket, select 'Online' for the 1:30
bus. If you wish to purchase a ticket which will be delivered in the
mail, select 'By mail'. *Note, if you select 'Online' it will bring you to
a screen with 14 different trip options. New York to Providence is the
first one, so simply select that to be brought to the purchasing screen*
4) Enter February 15, 2008 and your name to purchase a ticket.
If you are FLYING into a NYC airport or to Newark airport you can catch
either a shared form of transporation (shuttle bus or subway/train) or a
taxi to get you to Port Authority. (The bus from Newark to Port Authority
costs $13.) Allow as much time as possible for to get from the airport to
the bus station. Ideally you want to have at least two hours between your
arrival time and your bus departure and more would be even better. (If you
get to Port Authority early there are plenty magazine and coffee shops
that you can explore until your bus departs).
We will be sending emergency phone numbers to all of you via email before
departure that you can use in the event you miss the bus the group will be
on and need to catch a later one. (These will connect you to Global LAB
staff).
If you have other questions about pre-travel planning or preparations you
can contact me or Tracy Joosten (our India co-leader) who many of you will
be getting to know soon!
Michelle
January 19, 2008
Greetings from Kempie Blythe, Morocco Semester Director
Asalamualaikum!
I’m thrilled to be a part of what will surely prove to be an amazing, challenging, and life-changing experience for you all! My life journey began much as yours will. I took a leap–decided there was something beyond (what I did not know)–and landed halfway across the world into something exotic, strange, frightening at times, but nonetheless exhilarating.
Morocco is an incredible place filled with vivid sounds, smells, tastes, and images that will stimulate you, drive your curiosity, and eventually all come together in a myriad of ways in your mind, body, and soul.
I know that, at this moment, you’re wondering what it is like and thus I have chosen to share a piece of my writing…a piece of my Moroccan experience…
Continue reading "Greetings from Kempie Blythe, Morocco Semester Director" »
Welcome from Alex Safos, Director Middle East & North Africa Programs
Alex and friend in Rabat, Morocco
I was an anxious, rudderless college sophomore when he got the call. It was from Washington, DC—the State Department to be exact—and the beige rotary phone was ringing in a remote University of Texas at Austin professor’s office, some 1,500 miles plus away. This was 1986, and to me, 1,500 miles was a faraway place. Dr. James Bill politely and unpretentiously said, “Alex, have a seat. I need to take this call from State. They need some input—help, really—with their Iran policy.” Now this is pretty cool, I thought, eyes like saucers.
So this moment isn’t how I bit on the Morocco lure, but it represents my seminal brush with “The Middle East”. In reality, the geo-political conflicts drew me in. And how we, Americans, perceived—and misperceived—related—and unrelated—to this diverse and complex region rich in culture and history. For a 20 year old, the menu was overwhelming and fascinating at once: the US reaction to the Iranian Revolution; the intractable Arab and Palestinian conflict with Israel; the Iran-Iraq war; Qaddafi’s provocations in Libya; the civil war in Lebanon; the phenomenon of political Islam; how the Gulf States influenced the world economy—the challenges and kinetic energy seemed inexhaustible. I think you get the picture.
Continue reading "Welcome from Alex Safos, Director Middle East & North Africa Programs" »
January 15, 2008
Pre-travel orientation
Hello Spring Travelers-
We have selected a Pre-travel orientation site and are eagerly planning to
meet you there soon.
Check out the link below to get more idea about what VPT is like.
It is roughly 2.5 hours drive from NYC, 1 hour from Boston, 1 hour from
Hartford, and half an hour from the Providence airport.
http://voluntownpeacetrust.org/
Please let Michelle know michelle@global-lab.org if you plan to be dropped
off directly at VPT or if you will be meeting at Port Authority to take
the bus to our retreat with other students. Students who are meeting in
NYC should meet at Port Authority by 1:30 pm on February the 15th . From
there you will be taking a bus together to Providence, Rhode Island.
Global LAB staff will meet you at the Providence bus station and provide
transportation for you from there to and from the retreat and also to the
airport!
More information will follow soon about which bus company gate to meet at
and the exact bus departure time (and fare) for the ride those of you
meeting in NYC will be taking.
Looking forward to meeting you all in person soon!
Michelle
January 09, 2008
Audrey's Introduction
Hi, my name is Audrey Underhill and I'm in my senior year of high school in Boulder, Colorado, hippie capital of America, home to Croc shoes and the White Wave tofu company. I'm 16 now, but will be 17 by the time this program starts. This will be my second time in Morocco in a year-I went with the Experiment in International Living this summer. I lived with a Moroccan family in a tiny village in the mountains and it was possibly the best month of my life-that's why I'm so excited to come back! I also went to Rabat, Fes, the desert, many of the places in the itinerary for this trip. I speak five years' worth of French and two years of classical Arabic. I learned some Darija (Moroccan dialect) this summer, but I've never had formal classes in it.
All my life I've been a very serous ballet dancer, although I'm finally giving that up to come to Morocco. Because I've been dancing three or four hours every day for the past four or five years of my life, I've never really held a job or had any other significant hobbies, although I do love ballroom dancing, especially salsa, on weekends. I'm terrible at math and science, and excel in languages and social studies-which is why this year my schedule is only AP Psychology, AP European History, and AP English Literature at my high school and Intermediate Classical Arabic and Advanced French Composition at the university in my town. I split my day between the two schools, so I don't even really feel like a high schooler anymore. I like cats, rain, sparkly things, and tofu-I'm a vegetarian and a bit of a health nut. As well as to Morocco, I've traveled all over America, and I've visited England, Germany, Italy, Greece, Ireland, Nepal, Mexico, Honduras, Guatemala, Montreal, and Turkey, and lived in France for a summer when I was 13. I'm excited to meet you all and have this amazing experience together!
November 14, 2007
Zoe's Introduction
My name is Zoe and I'm from Chicago, Illinois. I'm taking a gap year before beginning college in the fall. I spent the first half of the year working a desk job at a Pilates studio near my home. I decided to spend the spring semester in Morocco because I'm open minded, laid back and am fascinated by different cultures.
When I'm not working I enjoy spending time with my friends, playing tennis, reading, listening to all sorts of music, and of course general tomfoolery.
I can't wait to experience Morocco with all of you!
Charlie's Introduction
Hello! To most my name is Charlie though to some I am a 'Chuck'. I am currently a high school senior at Poly Prep Country Day School in Brooklyn, NY. I enrolled in this program because of my interest in the Middle East and learning about global affairs. I look forward to learning from the people of Morocco as well as others in the program. Like some summer experiences I have had such as an international relations program at Georgetown or a school expedition to the Galapagos Islands, I look forward to making new and lasting friends over the course of the program.
November 09, 2007
Packing Suggestions
THINK LIGHT! You will have to put whatever you bring onto the tops of buses and you will have to carry your bag for long distances. Here's a list of all that you will need to stay warm, dry, cool and comfortable. When packing, think layers and do your best to stay away from cotton (save T-shirts) because cotton takes a long time to dry. We recommend that you only bring what's listed here. The lighter you pack, the happier you--and the rest of the group--will be. There will be opportunities to do “self-service” laundry where we’ll be staying.
PLEASE NOTE: We strive to be model visitors, and therefore ask that students bring clothing that is lightweight and durable, but that also covers the body well, and looks respectable. Tie-dyed T-shirts, cut-off jeans, tight fitting leggings and tank tops are inappropriate, as they show disrespect for local cultures.
BAGS:
BACK PACK/SUITCASE: Your main container to store your things. Something light weight and durable is best. An internal frame backpack functions well for easy mobility.
DAY PACK: A book-bag or fanny-pack to use for daily excursions (to carry camera, water bottle, jacket, notebook, etc).
Recommended Reading
Below are some highly recommended books to help you maximize your experience in Morocco and southern Spain. If time allows, borrow or purchase a few of these titles before your travels. Many libraries are likely to carry some of these as well. Those marked with an asterisk (*) are particularly recommended.
General / Travel Guides
*Lonely Planet Guide to Morocco
OR
*The Rough Guide to Morocco
History (Arab, North African, Moroccan, and Moorish)
A History of the Arab Peoples, Albert Hourani (Harvard University Press, 2003). Emeritus Fellow at St. Anthony's College in Oxford, Hourani begins with Islam's rise in the 7th century and carries the rich and imposing story of Arab civilization to the late 1980s. In broad, sweeping strokes, Hourani moves easily from mosque to marketplace, from sultan to imam, from nomad to city-dweller, from Mohammed to Anwar Sadat. He focuses on the Ottoman Empire and on the European colonialism that followed, and concludes with a discussion of the modern resurgence of Islam that offers hope to thousands of Muslims and appears so threatening to Westerners.
Tuition, Eligibility, & Application Instructions
2008 Morocco Semester Program Tuition: $9,845
Tuition includes residential pre-trip orientation in the US, preparatory and educational materials; dedicated student website for program communications and resources; all logistical facilitation; all hotels and guest houses; all meals; all domestic air fares/taxis/buses/trains/boats; museum, park and temple entrance fees; Global LAB faculty and instruction as well as local coordinators, cooks, porters; all program elements (independent study projects and apprenticeships, community service projects, home-stays, guest lectures, community support/charitable contributions).
Please note: Additional expenses not covered by Global LAB include r/t international airfare and costs of domestic travel to point of departure (NYC), inoculations, travel insurance and international medical and evacuation insurance; visa/passport processing fees; personal costs (laundry, phone calls/emails, souvenirs, etc.).
Semesters are open to those ages 17-21. While Global LAB semesters are geared toward interim or ‘gap’ year students, high school seniors as well as university students are welcome to apply. No language prerequisite is required.
Global LAB accepts applications on a rolling admissions basis, accepting qualified applicants until programs are full. Each program has a maximum of 12 participants and 3 Global LAB instructors. For this reason, we recommend candidates submit their applications as early as possible.
To begin the application process, print out the preliminary application and FAQ below:
* Application Form
* Dates & Details
* FAQ
Morocco Semester Overview: Spring 2008
Each time I go to a place I have not seen before, I hope it will be as different as possible from the places I already know.
–Paul Bowles, author of The Sheltering Sky, desert explorer, Morocco expatriate
A mere 17 miles south of Europe, across the Strait of Gibraltar, a very different experience awaits—an intriguing place of great contrast, color, culture, history, and hospitality: Morocco was the first nation to recognize the United States as an independent nation in 1777. The Moroccan-American Treaty of Friendship stands as the U.S.'s oldest non-broken friendship treaty. Signed by John Adams and Thomas Jefferson, it has been in continuous effect since 1783.
"Rooted in Africa, watered by Islam and rustled by the winds of Europe" in the words of its late King Hassan II, Morocco is a captivating and multifaceted country. If you are you motivated to learn firsthand about a culture rich in African, European, Arab, and Islamic traditions…if you are eager to explore an ecological diversity ranging from Atlantic Ocean to High Atlas Mountains to Mediterranean Coast to Saharan Desert…and if you desire close interaction with people of legendary hospitality, the Morocco semester will be intensely rewarding and enduring....
Audio from Elsewhere
“Sounds from the old city of Fes”
“Sounds from Marrakesh’s ‘Square of the Dead’”
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