B'slama
A couple of pre-depature photos taken in Granada before heading to the airport.
May 17, 2008
May 15, 2008
Dilapidated grandeur of Tangier
Tangier needs a new coat paint. Every building seems a bit run down, overworked from the year of housing wild fun of the international zone years. The medina is distinct from any that we saw in Morocco, the medina has buildings with Spanish type architecture or a Catholic church. The Anglican church of St. Andrew outside the old medina has a particularly interesting look. It was a gift to the queen in the in the late 1800's, I think 1883, but the design of the church is very Arab. The ceiling over the alter is the traditional woodcarvings with zoic patterns. Plaster carvings frame the alter with Arabic calligraphy. The Lord's Prayer is in Arabic script. The steeple is square, like a minaret, with zelig patterns on each side. Also in Tangier we visited the American Legation, a US Department of State property. This palace was a gift to the US from the sultan of Morocco in c. 1831. The Legation is currently a museum to Moroccan-US relations and displays artwork of Moroccans and European or Americans with a connection to Tangier. It also has a library open to Moroccans studying English and gives literacy lessons to local women. There is a tribute to Paul Bowles and some lovely Berber rugs.
Tangier was our last taste of Morocco. I already miss greeting Moroccans with Salom, Labaas, Kulshi bixir, hamdu'allah. I wish to return one day soon insh'allah. Only a days travel from the US and I am in an immensely different culture. I know the medina of Fes better than any city in the world. I hope that Morocco is somewhere in my future.
Recipes
It's been a while since I last blogged, so first I'm just letting everyone know that I and the rest of the group are alive and well. At the moment we're sitting in a bus station in Sevilla, so I'm taking this opportunity to type up some of the recipes I got during my cooking ISP with Hajja Fatima.
Lentils (3diss)
Soak 1.5 kilos dried lentils for an hour
Put them in a pressure cooker with a liter of water over medium heat, and boil for 20 minutes
Peel and chop three small tomatoes and one small onion
Add tomatoes, onion, ½ tsp imitation saffron, about a cup of chopped parsley, 1 ¼ tbsp olive oil, 2 tbsp canola oil, and 1 ½ teaspoon each of pepper, paprika, and tumeric
Boil everything together, then turn down heat
Cook on low for 30 minutes
Uncover, add a cup of hot water, bring to a boil again
Add a tbsp salt, and serve with bread
Harira
Soak 1 c. chickpeas
Skin them and put into a pressure cooker with a small onion (chopped)
Dampen 1 c. dry lentils and add to the pressure cooker
Add 3-4 c. water, cook on high for 30 minutes
Grate 4 tomatoes
Mash a large handful of parsley tops with 2 tbsp salt until it has a paste-like texture
Put the parsley paste in a pot with a heaping tbsp pepper and 1 tbsp olive oil, add 8 c. water and cook on medium heat
Add ¼ tsp imitation saffron, 1 c. dry rice, grated tomatoes, and 1 tbsp butter to the parsley pot
Mix a small can of tomato paste with water, add to the parsley pot
Mix 1 ½ c. bread flour with 2 c. water
Add the lentil pot to the parsley pot
Add pepper to taste
Slowly pour the flour mixture into the pot, stirring constantly
Mix well, cover, and cook for ½ hour
May 13, 2008
Cordoba
We spent all day today taking in the sights in the historic and beautiful city of Cordoba. In the morning, we explored the wonders of The Mezquita in mostly silence. The silence was only broken by a morning mass held in the active Cathedral part of the Mezquita. Following the Mezquita, we visited a unique synagogue with Arabesque plaster carving and Hebrew calligraphy. We also strolled the extravagant gardens of the Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos (Castle of the Christian Kings). In the afternoon, we all enjoyed a fun and educational tour at the Living Andalusia Museum in the Torre de la Calahora.
In our spare time, we have been sampling Andalusia's finest foods - gazpacho, tortillas (with potatoes and eggs), and of course churros con chocolate - not to be missed!
Tomorrow morning, we will visit Medina Azahara, an ancient city that was abandoned shortly after construction - it would have been the largest city in Western Europe of that time. In the afternoon, we will move on to Granada - our final destination of the semester. Cultural and historical jewels wait for us there - Alhambra, Albayzin, gitanos, flamenco....
May 11, 2008
Off to Espana...
We have had a busy three days here in Tangier - our last days in Morocco. Tomorrow, we will cross the Straits of Gilbralter to Spain and by the evening we will be in Cordoba. More details (and pictures) to come about our last adventures in Morocco and the adventures to come in Spain...
May 08, 2008
Practice of Fes Sufis
Sufism, or the mystical practice of Islam, has a vibrant place in the spiritual life of Morocco with Fes as the heart of this tradition. Sufism is an extra practice for a Muslim, above Faith and adherence to the Shar'ia. It is by choice that some people choose this greater spiritual path to achieve, ultimately, Sanctification or the admission into Paradise before the Sufi dies. Many Sufis do not attain such spiritual heights, but those devoted to the practices gain greater peace and closeness to the divine.
I was privileged enough to observe Sufi practice at a zawiya (a shrine to a Sufi saint or marabout. It has a blessing from the saint after death, called Baracka, which gives the invocation greater spiritual power) in Fes with Niaz; a Canadian Muslim who is teaching English at the American Centre. In Morocco, non Muslims are not allowed to enter Mosques or zawiyas because of Morocco's interpretation of Islamic Law. Niaz asked a local muezzin (prayer caller) who regularly attended this invocation, if it would be acceptable to make an exception for me. His first inclination was no, but he eventually agreed that it would be fine as long as I bathe before attending, where a djellaba (traditional Moroccan robe), and cover my head.
My night started with the difficulty of trying to find a Taxi at night in Fes. Luckily the kindness of Moroccans was with me. Two men flagged down a petit taxi with one passenger for me, and fortunately his destination was not out of my way. The petit left me off a little before 8:00 pm at Bab Guissa, my rendezvous point. I waited for a minute, then slipped into my new djellaba feeling a little self conscious about wearing the traditional Moroccan dress.
May 06, 2008
It's Very Blue Indeed
We had a great few last days in Fes; the culmination fo which was the homestay party where the students shared their appreciation for their time in Fes and the families that cared for them so well! It is always hard to leave our home-base of Fes, but everyone is enjoying the cool mountain air here in Chefchaouen.
A small city nestled in the Rif mountains (the northern most range of Morocco), Chefchaouen's medina is known for its beautiful pastel blue walls. Originally the walls were green (a charasterisitic Muslim color), but we repainted this soft calming blue by Jews in the 1930s. Chefchaouen has a long history of Jewish and Muslim influence (as both populations moved into the community during the Spanish Inquisition). Chefchaouen also has a distinctive Spanish/Andalusian feel (as compared with most cities in Morocco) since the city was once under Spanish occupation.
Literally the town's name (shoof-chaouen) can be translated as "look at the horns" (or peaks of the moutains that tower over the city). Tomorrow that is exactly what we plan on doing by taking a day hike into the surrounding rural areas to gain a better understand of how the Amazigh (Berber) population here differs from that in the Middle Atlas and the High Atlas/Souss Valley.
On Friday, we will head to Tangier before moving on to Spain. Time is passing quite quickly these days.
May 04, 2008
Morocco is like a Tajine
Here are some photos from the Fnaire & Rhany concert. Highlights included the enthuastic crowd, Rhany's dance moves and, of course, a Fnaire song equating the diversity of Morocco to a tajine.
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May 02, 2008
Our Last Days in Fes
This past week, we have been busy as usual...taking in every last bit of Fes as we head up North on Tuesday. This morning, we finished up our medina restoration activities with a plaster carving workshop in the Attarine medrasa (a Quranic school which has been closed to the public for the last few years for renovation and restoration) - quite a rare opportunity!
Afterwards, we took a group trip to Art Naji, an artisan factory where Chris has been apprenticing under a zellij (Moroccan tilework) malem (master).
Charlie tries his hand at the art form, chipping away...
Omar explains the process of creating a finished zellij piece to the group
Chris tries out a new craft - his interest and talent for such crafts never ceases to amaze. Watch out New Hampshire, Chris is going to revolutionize interior design (woodcarving, zellij, carpet weaving, the works)!
This afternoon, Zoe, Chris, and I saw an impressive art exhibit presenting photographs from around the world -from Morocco to South Africa to Siberia - it was quite diverse to say the least!
Tomorrow, the students will continue their ISPs and in the evening we will attend a Moroccan rap/hip-hop concert - it should be mumtastic (a new word I have created from fantastic and mumtaz -a Modern Standard Arabic word for excellent)!
If you want to check out their music: http://profile.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=user.viewprofile&friendid=175921284
April 30, 2008
Where are the Jobs? A Cross-Cultural Dialogue
This morning, we attended a lecture and round table discussion on the issue of unemployment in Morocco at a local university.
Local university students explain their concerns for the future and discuss possible solutions.
Charlie, Audrey, Zoe, and Chris share their insight on U.S. unemployment and engage the Moroccan students to explain how the issue compares in Morocco.
April 29, 2008
Our Last Day at Ahli
Yesterday was our last day volunteering with the street kids of Ahli. We created a handprint mural to remember our time together.
April 27, 2008
Cultural Exchange in Sefrou
This morning we ventured to Sefrou, a small city half an hour away from Fes, to assist in a English language program hosted by the U.S. Government and the Moroccan Association of Teachers of English (MATE). In addition to providing these students with access to native speakers, the Global LAB students gave these Moroccan English language learners a taste of U.S. culture. From Thanksgiving and birthday cake to hip-hop and indie rock, Charlie and Zoe discussed U.S. holidays, food, and music.
Chris and Audrey discussed the U.S. system of education and leisure activities.
We also learned about the Moroccan system of education, talked about couscous and tajine, and heard about the Sefrou cherry festival. It was a wonderful exchange!
This afternoon, everyone will engage in their ISP activities – Zoe and Audrey will “bust a medina move” at bellydancing, Charlie will continue to enrich his Modern Standard Arabic language skills, and Chris will create another zellij (Moroccan tilework) masterpiece.
With only a little over a week left in Fes, the students will spend the next week finishing up their Moroccan Arabic (darija) classes, bring their ISPs to a close, and find their last treasures wandering the ancient Fes medina (at least for now). In addition, we will have a lecture and round table discussion on unemployment at the local university and learn more about Fes medina restoration. Next Sunday, we will attend a Moroccan flamenco concert to prepare us for our Andalusian excursion in a couple of weeks.
April 26, 2008
Fes Festival of Sufi Culture
On Thursday night, we attended the final concert of the Sufi Cultural Festival in Fes. It was quite a sight and the music was enjoyed by all!
April 25, 2008
Dar Amra
Just a quick post to say it's great to be back in Fes! I returned to Haja Fatima's to find a new set of relatives staying there. Naima, Haja's daughter-in -law (who happens to also be her niece....I think..) and her son Talal have joined the rotating cast of people staying at my homestay house. Abdou, Haja's son, and his wife Fatiha and three little children are also currently visiting, and about two days ago Haja's friend came to help teach Audrey's cooking lesson and has seemingly moved in for the week. It certainly is a full house, or as Haja Fatima described it to me in darija, "dar amra." I have been spending lots of time playing with the kids and will try to post some more pictures soon!
Back In It
It has been a bit over week that we have been back in our 'home city' of Fes. We returned on the 14th and essentially jumped back into our ISPs and Arabic lessons the next day. Because most of my original family has moved to the States, I have been put with a new family in the same neighborhood who are just as nice and hospitable as the last. Each of us has been doing our ISPs including photography, cooking, medina restoration and increased Arabic as well as working at a local H'noot, which is essentially the Moroccan version of a 7/11 except they are very compact, but can be found everywhere. Zoe, Chris and I have been taking turns working with Abdu a Hnoot owner who is also son to Zoe's homestay mother. Working at the H'noot and simply speaking with Abdu has given each of us a perfect opportunity to improve our language skills as well as learn anything we wish to know about the culture from politics, economics, music, etc.
We have also attended quite a few good lectures in the past weeks. One interesting lecture was given to us by a Fulbright student studying in Fes whos was using her grant to examine the success and extent of a government program implemented following the 2003 Casablanca bombings aimed at curbing the spread of radical Islam, particularly in areas it can easily fester. The program entailed training women (called Morshedat)to be specialized Islamic 'guides' to be stationed in mosques and use their knowledge, and through social services, promote a 'moderate' version of Islam. Based on her research in Fes, she contended that while the main goal of the program (combating terrorism) is good, it is hampered by the fact that is not very well known or understood by the general Moroccan populace, as well as being viewed as highly political because of the way the program has been lauded in the West for its 'empowerment' of women as religious leaders. We also had an interesting lecture earlier today with Niaz, a knowledge Muslim scholar studying the legendary Karaouine University in Fes, as well as Mariam, a deeply insightful Moroccan woman who runs SACAL-Fes, an association that has facilitated the majority of our activities. Our lecture was centered around the idea of 'Islamic Law': what it is, how it is has been adapted and applied in the modern world. We discussed Islamic law in Morocco, including the educations system to the family laws to the usage of mosques. Niaz spoke upon the drastic change in mosque usage after the Casa bombings. He spoke upon the government's monitoring and enforcement program of closing mosques 15 minutes after prayer. Not all, but the majority of Moroccans who have participated either in acts of terrorism, or have become insurgents in Iraq, have come from predominantly impoverished 'bidonvilles' or slums. Lack of proper education, job training, and high unemployment and youth allowed these areas to become extremely vulnerable to radical Islamic recruiters, and is thus why the government has taken such action. However Niaz contends that while the laws over mosques, and programs such as that of the Morshedat, can help prevent terrorism and radical Islam in the short term, it also makes it exceedingly difficult for the broad discussion and interpretation of Islam and Islamic law he feels is necessary to ultimately defeat radicalism, while also driving those looking towards extremism, and those looking for others to embrace it, deeper underground.
I have also been doing regular Modern Standard Arabic lessons in addition to Moroccan Arabic. This weekend we will have a rare opportunity to give a lecture of our own to high school students studying English in the town of Sefrou, close to Fes, on American culture as well as initiate discussions within different groups concerning Moroccan and American culture.
Our fearless leader Kempie braving the treacherous sands of the Sahara.
-Charlie
April 24, 2008
Learning from the Masters
Yesterday we visited a woodcarving workshop and spent a couple of hours learning the trade.
Zoe practices her new woodcarving skills
April 23, 2008
New Fes Family
I had a slight problem with my homestay arangement when we arrived back in Fes. Originally my Fes Family said that they would be in the Rif mountains durring this phase. But a week before I returned to Fes Kempie received an email that they would be in Fes durring this time and they wanted to host me. Wonderful, I would hit the ground running when I returned to Fes.
When the time came for our reunion, Kempie, Dana and I walked up to the store
They quickly explained that this was "musi mushkil" or not a problem, but we decided that it would be best if I stayed with the family downstairs in their building. So Kempie asked if they would host a stranger from the US for three weeks, and being a Moroccan family they agreed; again the warmth and ease that a family is willing to take in a student is just amazing.
So I have a new family here in Fes. I live in the apartment below my previous family with Unis, Bahdra, their parents and an adorable little girl named Nuhayla. I am learning considerably more Darija and french with this family because no one speaks English. Especially with the little girl, she only speaks Darija, but that doesn't stop her from talking on end for hours if I let her. Unis took me to the Hmmam on Monday, I had not been to the hmmam with a local before, and Unis is a hmmam expert. He ran around distributing water and rubbing the dead skin off other men's backs. He would occasionally catch me off guard by pouring a bucket of hot water over my head. He scraped my skin so thoroughly with my abrasive hmmam scrubby that I turned red. Things are going smoothly here in Fes, unfortunately the end of our time in Morocco is coming to a close.
April 22, 2008
Keeping Busy in Fes...Never a Dull Moment
Audrey engages the Ahli boys in a game of tag
Charlie apprenticing at a local h'noot
Chris makes sure the medina is restored right!
Zoe and Robert (from SACAL-Fez) discuss their photography
April 20, 2008
From the Spacious Boulevards of Rabat to the Labyrinth Zenkas of Fes
The Chellah
This morning after a fulfilling breakfast of melawi (a kind of fried pancake – a group favorite), we concluded our 2 night stay in Rabat. Some highlights included two lectures given at the Center for Cross-Cultural learning on Women's Rights, Islam, and the Moudawana (Family Code) and Moroccan Politics. We also enjoyed our visits to the Chellah, the Hassan Tower, the Mohammed V Mausoleum, and the Kasbah des Oudaias.
We also had the opportunity to indulge in some international food – we delighted in some Syrian, Chinese and Japanese food. We also had some excellent harira (Moroccan soup) to satisfy our Moroccan cravings.
This evening, we will enjoy some Jazz & Blues music at a local cafe.
This upcoming week, we will resume our community service activities with Ahli, a home for street children.. We also will attend a few more events of the Sufi Cultural Festival. In addition to occupying their time with their ISPs, the students will participate in two sessions of woodcarving and dabble in this ancient and refined art form.
April 15, 2008
Back Home in Fes
Yesterday we left Marrakesh and returned to our home base of Fes. Everyone is happy to be back in familiar territory again. We loved our journey in the South, but we're excited to spend the next three weeks re-engaging with Fes on a deeper level. The students resumed their darija (Moroccan Arabic) lessons this morning and have moved into their homestays again. Some have new families and some families are the same - I'm sure all will have enriching experiences! The students will begin their Independent Study Projects (ISPs) shortly. On Thursday, the week-long Festival of Sufi Culture will begin and we look forward to participating and observing some lectures, workshops, and musical performances.
On Friday, we will head to the capital city of Rabat for the weekend. While in Rabat, we will hear a lecture on Women's Rights and the recent reforms to the Family Code as well as on Moroccan Politics. We will also be visiting an ancient Roman ruin site (Chellah), the Mausoleum of Mohamed V, the incomplete Hassan Tower (which was intended to be the tallest minaret in the world) and we will find some time to sit and drink tea and eat sweets by the water in the beautiful Kasbah des Oudaias.
April 13, 2008
Images from Asdaghs Community Service
Planting several gardens at the highest school in Morocco (2,314m)!
Images from the High Atlas Trek
April 10, 2008
...Down from the Mountains
We just received a dispatch from Kempie, signaling the group's safe return to Imlil after several enjoyable days of High Atlas trekking:
"We just got back from our trek. Although the weather was not suitable for summiting Mt. Toubkal, we saw some incredible scenery and all are in good health. We head back into the mountains tomorrow for our two day community service project with Global Diversity Foundation. We will be planting some iris and cherry trees. I'll report more when we get back into Marrakesh on Sunday."
Global LAB Can't Get Enough of Those Tree-Climbing Goats!
Showing our love for those argan nibblers!
April 05, 2008
Into the Mountains
This morning we are heading into the High Atlas, the tallest mountain range in Morocco, and all are looking forward to our 5-day hike followed by a two day community service project planting gardens in a rural mountain village. We will be mostly out of contact until we return to Marrakesh next Sunday.
Off to enjoy some peace and tranquility. More to come when we return...
Carpet bagging
.One of the few things that I knew about Morocco before this trip was the Berber carpet. Since orientation I have been excited about the prospect of buying one of these beautiful rugs for myself. My culmination came in Marrakesh. the adventure began on Tuesday, Carpet buying, when done correctly, is a multi day process. Our Marrakesh maestro, Gita, brought us to one of her favorite carpet man, Shariff, on our tour of the souk. We were whisked upstairs by Shariff, served mint tea and looked at carpet after carpet. I quickly narrowed down the search to the Middle Atlas style Zemour, then just those carpets with the deeper red or Rouge Francaise, many were too busy until I found my carpet.
Gita constantly reminded me that I needed to fall in love with my carpet. I couldn't just like the carpet, I need to have a relationship with it. Our first meeting was not love at first sight, but it caught my eye. Not to busy, good color, three "pillars of wisdom" as Gita called them, and highlights of deep purple, very unique. I asked the price, trying to sound casual so as not to be eager. Shariff thought, "High quality rug, but you are a friend of Gita so 2,800 dh." or nearly 400 dollars.
we ended our first day, the group was hungry, I would return on Thursday to look at more rugs of a similar style and to negotiate a price. Thursday was the carpet auction, where the berber town folk come to sell their carpets to the dealers. Old men draped in ornate carpets moved from dealer to dealer, looking for the best price on a carpet. Before this started, I met another one of Gita's carpet men, who showed me more carpets, but I could not find another like the one Shariff had shown me.
Armed with the price of a competitors carpet, I went to find Shariff and bargain on my own. I looked at more Zemour carpets, but in the end it came down to My carpet. So the bidding began. He offered 2800, I said could we do better, 2600. A little chatting and I mentioned the other carpet that was less than this one. "Well the quality is not the same look." Shariff pulled out a lighter and lit the end of my rug on fire, but it didn't burn, just a bit of smoldering. Then it was the imitation, witch lit on fire and burned like yarn. Oh, well now I know what I am buying. I countered and stuck to my price. Eventually after a bit of, "oh I am a poor student," we agreed. He showed me the price tag that he had on my carpet, 12000 dh, that is Marrakesch. So he packaged it up I have to carry with for the remainded of Morocco, but with nowhere to admire it.
April 03, 2008
Soukin' it Up
Marrakesh's Djemaa El Fna comes alive as the sun goes down
This morning the students are wandering the souks (markets) - taking it all in - the brightly colored scarves, rich smelling spices, the noise of the daily life in the souk. In the afternoon, we will observe the process of carpet auctioning and then hear a lecture on Sufism by a local Sufi poet.
Our days in Marrakesh have been busy and have been quite hot! Our generous host, Gita, has been showing us around the city - giving some historical and cultural context to this fascinating place. We have spent our mornings visiting sites such as Dar Si Said, the Badii Palace, all of the various souks, 
as well as the Museum of Marrakesh and the remarkable Medrasa Ben Yousiff. 
In the afternoon, the students have been enjoying their Tachelheit lessons - they are catching on quickly and will put their skills to good use in the High Atlas next week. We have also spent many nights dining at Djemaa El Fna - sampling some of the best food Morocco has to offer and providing an ambiance unlike anywhere else in the world.
On Friday, we will attend a Sufi musical performance before heading to the High Atlas on Saturday for a week long trek.
Everything you need!
April 02, 2008
Images from Marrakesh
Recycled Tire Goods
Chris receives instruction from a metalwork artisan
Recreating a scene from Hitchcock's "The Man Who Knew Too Much" filmed at the Dar Essalam Restaurant
Traditional Garment Photo Shoot
Gnawa Gimbri Lesson
April 01, 2008
Impressions of Marrakesh
Marrakesh is one of the largest cities in Morocco's southern region, and certainly the most unique of Morocco. The city is home to rich diversity of Arab, African, and Berber influence. Physically it is much like many of Morocco's main cities with a 'new city' and a medina. However the culture is very different. It is the most heavily visited city in Morocco by tourists which has given life to its markets and cultural scene. The souk (market) of Marrakesh is sprawling with different shops from the typically modern pirated DVD stands to woodworkers using centuries old methods to create their products. Fabric, leather, and clothing shops are the most ubiquitous, giving the shaded markets an almost overwhelming sense of color. Dazzling jewelry and antique shops are also an enticing highlight of the souk. Aside from having the traditional garment and shoe wear stores, there are also a few innovative shops including one the furbishes furniture and interior items made entirely out of tires, from mirrors to chairs to tables and more. Another unique feature is the rug market which is home to many boutiques sporting Moroccan rugs from all over the country, with unique styles from many different areas and demographics of the country.
Even larger an attraction than the market is Jma al-Fna, a square in the center of the city that is home to dozens of food stalls, orange juice pressers, Moroccan storytellers, snake charmers, hustlers and more. The square is full of Moroccans and foreigners alike, and gets extremely crowded at night. It is common to see all sorts of entertainment happening in the square next to the food stalls. The stalls are consolidated into their own corner that number well over 50. Because they are so tightly packed and many serve the same, but delicious food, the waiters or "ushers" of each stall are very energetic about getting people to sit at their stall, some even attempt to block your way and push you into a seat. The meals are relatively cheap and of good proportions for a Moroccan meal.
We spent part of our day having our first official lesson in Tashlheet, a popular dialect of the Berber language which is an interesting mix of ancient Berber and Arabic. The language has only recently adopted an alphabet, as it has been a language of a culture based mainly upon oral and not literate tradition. Our teacher, Muhammed, also gave us a lecture the day earlier on Moroccan-Berber identity. He told a captivating and unique story about slavery in Morocco and his grandfather who had been enslaved even into the 1900s. He spoke of the lack of discussion of the topic of slavery, something scorned upon in "traditional Islam, in North Africa and the Arab world. He spoke on its continued presence into the 20th century and the lack of acknowledgment by Arabs of slave descendants in Morocco as well as Berber acknowledgment. He also touched upon a broader topic of emerging Berber identity that has been growing in Morocco since the 1930s when the French protectorate government of Morocco issue the "Berber Manifesto" decreeing Arabs and Berbers as separate people, in order to sow seeds of disunity in the non-French populous in order to defend against rebellion.
March 30, 2008
Images from Essaouira
Gnawa Jam Session
Chris learning some Gnawa dance moves
Chris heading to the "Castle Made of Sand"
Zoe and Dana with the view of Essaouira
Picking out our lunch at the fish market
Getting our fish ready for the grill
March 28, 2008
Riding the Waves in Essaouira
Yesterday we arrived in Essaouira with a short stop en route to visit the first and largest women's argan oil cooperative in Morocco. Yesterday, I oriented the students to the medium-sized fishing village of Essaouira. It has been quite windy here, but it is the windsurfing capital of Morocco!
This morning we headed out for a couple of hours of surfing - it was great fun! I think Zoe has found her calling! This evening we will partake in a little Gnawa music jam session. We will spend the rest of our time exploring the city, observing the fishermen at work, and perhaps a little beach walking if it warms up a bit.
On Sunday we will head to Marrakesh.
March 25, 2008
Chillaxing
In Taghazout...
Today we arrived in the beautiful, quaint village of Taghazout. It is incredibly peaceful here. We rented an apartment overlooking the beach for the next two days. It's refreshing to hear the waves crashing below us. It's the perfect spot for some reflecting and beaching. The town is dotted with surf shops and is fairly undiscovered by those outside of the surfing circuit. Just steps away the brightly painted fishing boats go out to sea to bring home their daily catch. Tonight we will cook up some flounder and veggies. Chris may even make us a little apple crumble!
On Thursday, we will head to another fishing town, Essaouira. Known as the windsurfing capital of Morocco, we will learn how to surf and enjoy some Gnawa music, which is Essaouira's current claim to fame (in addition to Jimi Hendrix spending some time there) since it is the spot where the International Gnawa Music Festival is held every summer.
Ait Benhaddou
M'hamid Nomad Festival
March 24, 2008
Learning From The Locals
Confusion ensued when we tried to use the telecarte to book reservations for our student-led trip to Taghazoute. Luckily, after several failed attempts, the patient teleboutique owner gave us a thorough how-to and reservations were secured!
Wet Sands of the Sahara
March 23, 2008
Back from the Desert
Our cheeks are all looking a bit rosier now that we are back from the desert - even thought the student were very adament in their sunscreen usage - no wrinklers here. We had a great few days in the desert and an interesting time at the Nomad Festival when we finished our camel trip. The festival is still in the workings, but we did see some good music! Tomorrow the students take the reigns of the program for the first-ever student-led portion of the Global LAB Morocco semester program. The plan is to head to Tarazought, a small fishing village known for its surf, just north of Agadir. More details to come...
March 20, 2008
Into the Desert of all Deserts, The Sahara....
Kempie sent us a brief dispatch, signaling the group's safe arrival in Zagora. On tap for the next few days: a camel caravan into The Sahara followed by a visit to the Nomad Festival which features artisans and musicians from southern Morocco. Check in soon for more details....
March 18, 2008
Sunny Day in the Todra Gorge
We arrived in the Todra Gorge last night and have been enjoying the peaceful palmary and magnificant gorge that surrounds us. Today we took a day hike through along the ridges of the surrounding mountains and back through the fertile palmary - where the locals are growing beans, figs, almonds, and dates (just to name a few). Tomorrow morning we will begin a long day of traveling down to the desert and we will begin our camel trek the day after tomorrow. Everyone is looking forward to it and enjoying the diversity of the South.
We will be out-of-touch while we are in the desert, but look forward to hearing about our adventures when we return!