August 9, 2010

Morocco Semester Overview: Fall 2010

Each time I go to a place I have not seen before, I hope it will be as different as possible from the places I already know.
--Paul Bowles, author of The Sheltering Sky, the late desert explorer and Morocco expatriate

A mere 17 miles south of Europe, across the Strait of Gibraltar, a very different experience awaits--an intriguing place of great contrast, color, culture, history, and hospitality: Morocco was the first nation to recognize the United States as an independent nation in 1777. The Moroccan-American Treaty of Friendship stands as the U.S.'s oldest non-broken friendship treaty. Signed by John Adams and Thomas Jefferson, it has been in continuous effect since 1783.

Continue reading "Morocco Semester Overview: Fall 2010" »

Packing Suggestions

THINK LIGHT! You will have to put whatever you bring onto the tops of buses/taixs and you will have to carry your bag for long distances. Here's a list of all that you will need to stay warm, dry, cool and comfortable. When packing, think layers and do your best to stay away from cotton (save T-shirts) because cotton takes a long time to dry. We recommend that you only bring what's listed here. The lighter you pack, the happier you--and the rest of the group--will be. There will be opportunities to do "self-service" laundry where we'll be staying.

PLEASE NOTE: We strive to be model visitors, and therefore ask that students bring clothing that is lightweight and durable, but that also covers the body well, and looks respectable. Tie-dyed T-shirts, cut-off jeans, tight fitting leggings and tank tops are inappropriate, as they show disrespect for local cultures.

BAGS:
BACK PACK: Your main container to store your things. Something light weight and durable is best. An internal frame backpack functions well for easy mobility.
DAY PACK: For daily excursions (to carry camera, water bottle, jacket, notebook, etc).

Continue reading "Packing Suggestions" »

Recommended Morocco Multimedia Resources for Background

Follows is a list of content in various media that will provide useful background for your upcoming tour and help contextualize your experiences.  If time allows, borrow or purchase a few of these titles before your travels--try to coordinate with fellow travelers so these may be shared during the tour. Many libraries are likely to carry some of these as well. A short-list of highly recommended readings is asterisked (*).

Continue reading "Recommended Morocco Multimedia Resources for Background" »

Welcome from Alex Safos, Director of Southern Europe, Middle East & North Africa

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Alex and tour driver, Mohamed, in The Rif

I was an anxious, rudderless college sophomore when he got the call. It was from Washington, DC--the State Department to be exact--and the beige rotary phone was ringing in a remote University of Texas at Austin professor's office, some 1,500 miles plus away. This was 1986, and to me, 1,500 miles was a faraway place. Dr. James Bill politely and unpretentiously said, "Alex, have a seat. I need to take this call from State. They need some input--help, really--with their Iran policy." Now this is pretty cool, I thought, eyes like saucers.

So this moment isn't how I bit on the Morocco lure, but it represents my seminal brush with "The Middle East". In reality, the geo-political conflicts drew me in. And how we, Americans, perceived--and misperceived--related--and unrelated--to this diverse and complex region rich in culture and history. For a 20 year old, the menu was overwhelming and fascinating at once: the US reaction to the Iranian Revolution; the intractable Arab and Palestinian conflict with Israel; the Iran-Iraq war; Qaddafi's provocations in Libya; the civil war in Lebanon; the phenomenon of political Islam; how the Gulf States influenced the world economy--the challenges and kinetic energy seemed inexhaustible. I think you get the picture.

Continue reading "Welcome from Alex Safos, Director of Southern Europe, Middle East & North Africa" »

Morocco Health Information

Please review the latest recommendations from the CDC for Morocco travelers, including vaccine guidance.

Morocco Weather Forecasts

Forecasts for every major city on our itinerary can be found on Weather Underground.

Hello from William

 

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My name is William. I am 18 years old, I live in Evansville, Indiana, and I graduated May 28, 2010, from The Hotchkiss School in Lakeville, Connecticut. I have accepted an offer of admission to the Class of 2014 at Colorado College, but my request to defer enrollment until 2011 has been granted so that I might participate in the Global LAB fall semester in Morocco. My academic interests include literature, history and linguistics; my extra-curricular interests include baseball, sailing and singing. I really look forward to the fall semester in Morocco, and to meeting everyone else in the program.

Hello from Gabriella

 

 

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Hello Everyone!

 

I'm Gabriella, a 17 year old graduate from New Hope- Solebury High School in Pennsylvania.  I decided to graduate high school a year early so that I could take a gap year. I can't even describe how excited I am to go on this adventure- it is everything I could ever want and more!  I love to explore new places, learn about different cultures, and most importantly, help others. I have always been interested in learning languages- I have been speaking French for 12 years now and have taken classes in Spanish and Chinese.  Therefore, I can't wait to further my French and to begin learning Arabic.  I am looking forward to meeting all of you and sharing life changing memories with everyone!


Hi from Kelsey

 

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Hi!  I'm Kelsey from Connecticut, and I deferred my acceptance at Northwestern University's Medill School of Journalism to take a gap year and explore the world.  I'm spending the other half of the year in Fiji, New Zealand, and Australia.  I'm so excited to learn about Moroccan culture and life and actually put my high school French to use.

Aside from my love of the world, I enjoy the TV show "Friends", Dave Matthews Band, Harry Potter books, tea, softball, and skiing.  I can't wait to meet everyone and expand my worldly adventures!


Hi from Emanne

 

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Hi, I'm Emanne, and I'm from Woodbridge, Connecticut. This past spring I graduated from Choate Rosemary Hall, and in the fall of 2011 I will be attending Oberlin College. I'm excited to travel to Morocco this fall, and to be able to experience a completely new and interesting culture. I have never traveled to Morocco, let alone any part of Africa, and I cannot wait for this new adventure. I'm also excited to be able to practice French, while learning some Arabic.


Fes Surround Sound

Audio from Elsewhere

Buckle up for Fes by checking out these amazing soundscapes of the medina produced by Jim Metzner's "Pulse of the Planet"...turn out the lights, turn up the volume, and whet your appetite for the old city of Fes.

Insurance FAQ

Please review the following document (FAQs for Global LAB with Starr May 2010.doc) your parents regarding insurance offered by our provider. Note that the Core Plan is offered complimentary to Global LAB semester participants who are interested, but there are options to upgrade (at a cost) if you so wish to acquire. Additional information beyond this document can be found at www.coretravelinsurance.com, or you can send an email to administrator@coretravelinsurance.com.

August 10, 2010

Asalamualaikum! ("Peace be Upon You!") from Kempie Blythe, Morocco Program Leader

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Kempie delicately feeds a hyenna raw meat in Harrar, Ethiopia

 

Asalamualaikum!

 

I'm thrilled to be a part of what will surely prove to be an amazing, challenging, and life-changing experience for you all! My life journey began much as yours will. I took a leap-decided there was something beyond (what I did not know)-and landed halfway across the world into something exotic, strange, frightening at times, but nonetheless exhilarating.

 

I have been leading the Global LAB Morocco semester program since it piloted in the Fall of 2007. For the past year, I ventured beyond North Africa - crossing the physical and cultural boundaries of the Sahara. From Senegal and Mali to Ethiopia, Zanzibar, Rwanda, and Uganda, I danced to the beats of the djembe on the beaches of Dakar, floated on the Niger, rafted the Nile, worked with formerly Internally Displaced People in Northern Uganda, hiked the active Nyiragongo volcano in the DRC, visited the desolate salt plains of Eastern Ethiopia, witnessed Rwandans remember their past in order to create a new future together, and connected with many wonderful people along the way. At the conclusion of this 8-month journey, I participated in a Conflict Transformation Peacebuilding Program at the School for International Training where I discussed and analyzed the nature and roots of conflict and devised peaceful solutions with leaders from Nigeria, Pakistan, and Iraq among others. With newfound perspective and insight, I look forward to returning to Morocco - a place I consider to be my second home. 

Continue reading "Asalamualaikum! ("Peace be Upon You!") from Kempie Blythe, Morocco Program Leader" »

August 11, 2010

Participant Handbook for Morocco Semester Program

Please review the Participant Handbook for the Morocco semester program, print it, sign it, and bring your copy to pre-travel orientation: Student_Handbook_Morocco_2010.pdf.

Ramadan begins...

As the holy Islamic month of fasting and reflection begins, here's an interesting article from The Washington Post: "For many Muslims, start of Ramadan stirs up centuries-old debate between science and doctrine"

An Introduction to Islam

Although a teaching tool and resource, An Introduction to Islam, published by Georgetown University's Center for Contemporary Arab Studies, is an excellent primer on this faith. Give it a read before the program begins and witness this religion in practice once you're in Morocco....

"Why The Maghreb Matters: Threats, Opportunities, and Options for Effective American Engagement in North Africa"

An interesting political science report published by The Potomac Institute for Policy Studies and The Conflict Management Program at SAIS: Why The Maghreb Matters

August 12, 2010

Hi from Stewart

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Hi, I'm Stewart, I'm 18 years old, and I'm from Louisville, Kentucky.  I just graduated from Episcopal High School in Alexandria, Virginia and after my gap year, I'll be headed to Middlebury College or Washington and Lee University where I've deferred.  I love to paint, cook, and do yoga-- and I look forward to learning about everyone else in the group!  After a couple of years in the "boarding school bubble," I'm so excited to travel and explore Morocco! 

 

August 13, 2010

Independent Study Project (ISP) Possibilities in Morocco

We hope you are getting excited about your upcoming journey to Morocco. In the next few weeks we encourage you to explore what particularly interests you about Morocco as this topic--or topics--could be something you could explore further while in Morocco.

Here is a list of possible independent study project (ISP) topics. There are endless possibilities for ISPs, so use this list as a starting point for what subject matter you would like to dive into once we hit Moroccan soil. It's always helpful to give your ISP some thought before we arrive. The following ideas can be enriched with photographs, creative writing pieces, or a video or audio documentary, so tap into your creative source.

Continue reading "Independent Study Project (ISP) Possibilities in Morocco" »

August 19, 2010

Student Pre-Travel Orientation: September 13-15

The Pre-Travel Orientation (PTO) will be held in Southfield, MA from Monday, September 13th to Wednesday, September 15th. Please plan on arriving in Southfield by 3:00pm. If you are driving, please email me (alex@global-lab.org) and I will provide you with directions. If you are flying to the East Coast, we would recommend that you arrive into New York City as there are many public transportation options for you to get to Southfield (see below). Our travel agent, Sue (sue@aviatravel.com) would be happy to assist you with any domestic flights in addition to the international flights that she is booking for you.

Here are the public transportation options that we recommend from New York to Southfield. A Global LAB Staff Member will pick you up at either the train or the bus and take you to the Orientation Site.

1) Peter Pan Bus (www.peterpanbus.com): Take the Bonanza Bus Lines (BZ 0710) from New York, Port Authority to Canaan, MA (it is the Great Barrington bus line). This bus leaves from Port Authority at 9:00am and arrives in Canaan at 12:20pm. 

2) Metro-North Train (http://www.mta.info/mnr/): Take Metro-North Train from New York, Grand Central Station to Wassaic, NY. This train leaves from Grand Central Station at 11:48am and arrives in Wassaic at 2:03pm.

Please email me (alex@global-lab.org) and let me know how you will be arriving on September 13th. Thank you.

August 25, 2010

Program Itinerary

Morocco Semester Program: Fall 2010 Planned Itinerary

Please note: This itinerary is planned in advance and may be modified in the field due to
group interest, local cultural events worth experiencing, health and safety concerns, or
other factors beyond the control of Global LAB.


September 15:  Flight departs JFK

 

September 16-17:  Casablanca

 

September 18-25:  Fes (Phase I)

 

September 26-27:  Asilah

 

September 28-October 2:  Fes


Continue reading "Program Itinerary" »

Pre-travel Orientation (PTO)

PTO will take place September 13-15 at the YMCA Camp Wa Wa Segowea (413-229-9110) in Southfield, MA. Please plan to arrive at 3pm.

For those of you who will take public transportation to one of the nearby cities noted previously, please inform alex@global-lab.org or kempie@global-lab.org so a pick-up can be coordinated. For those driving from NYC (about 2 hours and 45 minutes), directions follow:

Make your way onto Hutchinson River Parkway. 

At exit 26W merge left onto 684 and stay on that all the way up to Brewster, NY, about 30 miles.

At Brewster (pit stop at Brewster's Red Rooster for good unhealthy milk shakes and usually clean restrooms), continue north on Route 22 up to Amenia, NY. 

At the stoplight in Amenia, take a right onto Route 343 (this may be called Main Street at the stop light). 

Continue on 343 until you come to the 4-way intersection in Sharon, CT (you will see a big stone clock tower across the intersection) and take a left onto Route 41. 

Stay on 41 until it becomes Route 44 at the stop sign in Lakeville--turn right, staying on 44 until you reach Canaan, CT. 

At the first stoplight in Canaan, turn left onto Route 7N.

After approximately 1 mile, take a right onto Clayton Road toward Southfield. Clayton Road is immediately before a large, new auto parts store on the right. 

After 2 miles on Clayton Rd you will come to a four way stop sign. 

Turn left onto Canann-Southfield Road and continue 4.7 miles. 

Turn right onto Foley Hill Road (dirt). Camp Wa Wa Segowea is at the end of the road, approximately 1 mile.


Driving directions from other cites can be found HERE.

See you at 3pm on September 13th!

An Audio Postcard from Marrakech's "Djemaa el Fna"

Hopefully you had a chance to enjoy the incredible soundscape of Fes' medina referenced in a previous blog entry...so not to give Marrakech short-shrift, here's a little NPR audio dispatch to prepare you--well, that's incorrect--nothing prepares you--to stimulate your curiosity in Marrakech's famous and frenetic "Djemaa el Fna" ("Square of the Dead").

August 27, 2010

Turning Fog into Potable Water in Arid Morocco

See this interesting report from CNET on an innovative conservation endeavor.

Five Myths about Mosques in America

In addition to spawning passionate debates in the public, the news media, and the political class, the proposal to build a Muslim community center near Ground Zero in New York has revealed widespread misconceptions about the practice of Islam in this country -- and the role of mosques in particular. Read the Washington Post column, Five Myths about Mosques in America.

September 7, 2010

Receiving College Credit for Global LAB Semester Programs

Seattle Central Community College (SCCC) -

Cooperative Education & Service-Learning


Students who would like to earn credit for their Global LAB semester abroad program can do so through Seattle Central Community College's Office of Cooperative Education and Service-Learning. Seattle Central is an accredited institution and credit may be transferable to your university or college. Please check with your academic advisor at your home institution to make sure that the credits will be accepted.

Continue reading "Receiving College Credit for Global LAB Semester Programs" »

September 8, 2010

Morocco Cleans Up One of its Oldest Industries

See this interesting article and video from euronews  on Morocco's efforts to make tanning more environmentally-friendly.

Reaching us this weekend...

If you need to reach us this weekend prior to your arrival on Monday, you can email myself or Kempie or call us at 413-229-7509; we'll be at an off-site staff meeting in Southfield, MA.

See you at the Y Camp Wa Wa Segowea at 3pm on Monday!

Alex

September 12, 2010

Staff Orientation

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Kai, Ellie, and Kempie await the students at Camp Wa Wa Segowea

Staff orientation is well underway! We have been enjoying our time in the Berkshires and are eagerly awaiting the arrival of the students. The Pre-Travel Orientation location, Camp Wa-Wa Segowea, is a beautiful spot equipped with cabins, fire pits, and a fantastic lake! Safe travels and see you tomorrow at 3pm!

Kempie

September 14, 2010

Orientation

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Over the past few days, we've been in the Berkshires for orientation.  It's been a little bit chilly, and it's the end of the second day.  We've been spending a bunch of time around the fire while getting warm and getting to know all about each other.  Throughout the two days, we've had information sessions and team-building exercises.  Don't worry Mom and Dad, I learned how to use a squat toilet today.  That experience, along with the other activities we've been doing together- such as writing this blog post as a group- have brought us all together and taught us something.  We're excited to leave tomorrow!  The India Global LAB group has been participating in some of the activities as well, but tomorrow we will go our separate ways. 

Asalamualaikum from Fatima!

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Hi! I`m Fatima BENHABYB, 21 year old living in Fez city, Morocco. I just got a B.A in linguistics from Sais university in Fez. I am a counselor  at MAAC "Moroccan Access Alumni Club".  I am now in the US participating in the International Visitors Leadership Program, a program that seeks to build mutual understanding between the U.S. and other nations. I will be returning to Morocco later this week and will meet the group in Fes. I'm thrilled at being a part of a program that focuses on the same values and cultivates a sense of appreciation to other cultures.

I look forward to meeting with you all and hopefully making a valuable contribution to the program and the team as well. 



September 15, 2010

From MA to Metro North to JFK to...

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Super-Extra-Excited Morocco and India student groups on Metro North

We've just received word that the Morocco group (aka "Captain Kempie's Fes Five") has made it through security at JFK and will now await their 6pm Iberia Air departure to Madrid (currently on-time) and then push to their finish line in North Africa. Once the group settles into Casablanca tomorrow, we'll post word on this blog. Let the adventures begin! 


September 16, 2010

Some Images from Pre-travel Orientation at Camp Wa Wa Segowea

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The Morocco group stomps out their "fears" posted on a towel
and gets to know each other a bit better in the process....

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Discussing stereotypes we may have of Moroccans and
stereotypes Moroccans may have of Americans--and what
students can do to deconstruct them on the program


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Yes, this would be practice for the "Squat", or Turkish, toilet....

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In this "Whiteout" team-building exercise, students practice awareness of
surroundings and communication; Team Morocco won this year's competition


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"Captain Kempie's Fes Five", the team name the students created, with their signed
"Full Value Contract"--a set of norms and goals the group will aim to preserve and
achieve during the program


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A close-up of the "Full Value Contract"--the team slogan is:
"We Are Here."Enhanced by Zemanta

...And some Video from Pre-Travel Orientation



On a misty dawn, the students awake to Ravi Shankar pumped through the camp PA

Fes Five tackle the Whiteout

Kempie's Squat Toilet Tutorial

The Fes Five will surely Master the Technique by mid-semester

Arrival in Casablanca

We've received a message from Kempie stating that the group has arrived safely in "Casa" and has already completed a tour of its medina (old city) and Jewish Museum--the only one of its kind in the Arab World. An early dinner and a good night's rest are on the docket for the remainder of the day. The group will depart tomorrow for Fes--a day earlier than planned--so they can establish their bearings, acclimate, and begin their home-stays sooner. More on that in the coming days. Once we've received word of their arrival into Fes tomorrow, we'll note it on this blog.

September 17, 2010

Arrival in Fes

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The Exquisite 14th century Medersa (Quranic school) Bou Inania in Fes' medina (old city)

"Captain Kempie's Fes Five" have successfully made it by rail from Casablanca to Fes and will bunk in its 9th century medina for the next couple of nights before beginning their home-stays. At last word, they were sipping coffee and tea, coming to grips with the time-warp before their very eyes. On tap for tomorrow: a formal medina tour and a scavenger hunt through its maze of countless souqs (markets), winding alleys, and blind turns. Game on.

September 18, 2010

Fes Haiku

The old medina
Narrow streets we might get lost
More gazelle horns, please?

Fes Haiku

Fes what can I say
Wandering your streets today
And drinking mint thé

September 19, 2010

Fes "Medina" Adventures

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In front of the Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca

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Overlooking Fes' tanneries in the "medina"

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Near the Nejarrine Fountain in the Fes "medina"

Yesterday, we began our first full day in Fes with an official medina tour. Our guide, Hakim, was extremely knowledgeable and shared the hidden treasures of the old city! During the tour, we learned about and witnessed the intersection of tradition and modernity around every corner. The tour was a perfect balance of historical and cultural sites. On our way, we explored breathtaking Islamic architecture in the Medrasa Bouanania, visited the holy mausoleum of Moulay Idriss II (the patron saint of Fes and the son of the founder of Fes, Moulay Idriss I), and marveled at the oldest university in the world, the Kaourine, founded in 808. We learned about the process of tanning leather from from an incredible rooftop view, indulged in the opportunity to try different styles of scarf wearing in Morocco (Amazigh, Nomad, Sahara, etc) and learned about the rich Amazigh carpet traditions and styles. In addition, we shared cups of atay (Moroccan mint tea), squeezed through small alley ways, swerved around people, carts, donkeys, and horses, and became more familiar with our new home.

In the afternoon, the students headed off on a scavenger hunt in the medina. Learning how to count in darija, bargaining, and trying new foods (prickly pear cactus), and the haiku blogs, of course, were highlights of this activity.

We have already made a new medina friend, Thami, who runs a delicious restaurant just inside Bab Boujloud. In addition to being a very  attentive and generous host, server, and cook, Thami has taught all the students how to count in dajia (the Moroccan Arabic dialect). Watch out for this rising star in our Global LAB video clips!

Today the students had their first darija class and moved into their homestay families. The students have been eagerly awaiting this day to immerse themselves into everyday life with local families! More stories to come in the upcoming days....

Tonight, the group will attend a djembe and gnawa (fushion of West African and Moroccan music) concert at a local café. The upcoming week will be filled with settling into homestays, darija lessons, lectures on Islam, Traditional Medina Restoration, and Social Movements in Morocco. The students will also begin their Independent Study Projects.

--Kempie

September 20, 2010

Learning to Count in "Darija" with Thami


Thami manages a delicious restaurant near Bab Boujeloud in the Fes "medina"

Some Images from Fes, Week 1

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The Fes Five receiving a guided tour of Medersa Bou Inania in the medina

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Moroccan Artisanship on Display: Magnificent Plasterwork,
Tilework and Woodwork at Medersa Bou Inania


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Gabriella poses in front of Bab Bou Jeloud, one of the medina's
famous gateways


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Going a bit native with hand-loomed scarves

September 22, 2010

Settling In...

We have been busy this week getting settled into Fes and exploring new surprizes around every corner! This week we explored the fine art of calligraphy with Master Mohamed Charkaoui and heard a facinating lecture on Traditional Islam and the Modern World with Niaz. We also ventured beyond the medina and walked the streets of Fes el-Jdid (a newer part of the city, but still over 700 years old). The medina of Fes is over 1200 years old! In Fes el-Jdid, we visited the King's Palace, the Mellah (traditional Jewish area marked by its characteristic balconies), a local synogoge, and the Jewish cemetary. In darija (Moroccan Arabic) class, the students are learning the Arabic alphabet in addition to phrases that will help them communicate with their homestay families. Tomorrow the students will begin their Independent Study Projects (ISPs).

More to come from the students soon....In the meantime here are some images from our week:

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Kelsey jams with Nomad, the Gnawa fusion band

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William observes Master Mohamed Charkaoui demonstrate the different styles of calligraphy

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Stewart models the desert scarf wearing style. We'll need her expertise when we go camel trekking!

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Emanne & William capture the action of the medina

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The group with Global LAB in-country coordinator, Fatima, in front of the King's Palace

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Kempie checks if the King Mohammed the Sixth is available

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The group in front of the Mellah

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The Jewish Cemetery

September 24, 2010

Around and About the Fes Medina


Once we arrived in Fes, we took a four-hour tour of the medina.  Some memorable shops:

At the weaving place, the man showed us how he weaved scarves, then he had us try them on in the various styles--desert, tuareg, nomad--and I was a nomad.

The leather shop, the tannery, smelled really bad, like poop and dead animal skin, so we got some mint sprigs to lessen it.  They had everything imaginable made out of leather, and we also got to see how they made the dyes.  It was so gross; there were so many vats where people were soaking the skin.

The man at the carpet shop served us tea and showed us many types of carpets even though we told him we weren't buying anything.  It was nice to sit down and relax after a lot of walking.  It would be cool to buy a small carpet to bring home because Morocco is world-renowned for its carpets, but a) they're expensive, b) it would be hard to pack, and c) I don't really have much of a use for one.

We did a scavenger hunt in our neighborhood and I asked the price of a hindiya (prickly pear) all by myself.  We also bought a souvenir camel, which was originally 20 dh, but I brought it down to 15 dh (my first bargaining!) and Emanne brought it down even further to 12 dh.  It was so nice to get integrated into the medina lifestyle!

Hello family and friends!!


Masae lkhayr (good afternoon)!  Today marks the Fes Fives first week in Fes and oh what a week its been!  After a few days orientating ourselves in the city and the medina specifically, weve finally settled into our homestays.  Its been such a wonderful experience so far!  My family is this lovely older couple who are so caring towards eachother and guests (including me) and are always happy and smiling.  However, their house is huge so there are always other family members around!  Actually, Kelseys homestay family has been living here for a few days so much time has been spent with Kelseys mom and her 2 children.  There is a 10 year old boy and a 6 year old girl and Im convinced they are the sweetest, smartest, and cutest children in the world.

There is no one moment in my homestay that stands out that has been amazing or life changing. Instead, the little moments have been special and memorable.  I look forward to helping the kids with their French and English homework each night and in return recieving help with my arabic! Also there have been many random, unexpected moments that make life so much fun!  Like Kelseys mom turning on some Moroccan music and us girls dancing in her room with the lights off!  Or trying on a traditional dress robe after seeing a picture of a family member in the clothes!  Or having lunch, couscous!!!!, with 10 family members all around a circular table and afterwards (trying) to play a game of cards!  I feel completely at home with my family and Im having some of the best experiences of my life!

I cant finish this post without commenting on two things...

1) The amount of tea I drink every day! Theres a few cups in the morning, then one or two at... midmorning, lunch, after lunch, at tea time, before dinner, at dinner, after dinner with dessert and one before bed! Its crazy! Thank goodness Im a tea fanatic! (Dont worry mom Im also drinking water!!!)

2)  There are cats everywhere here! Its pretty crazy! They are on street, in garbage, on streets, on roofs, on streets, in cafes and even restaraunts! They are not pets; however, when I walked into my homestay house what did I see but their pet cat! (They must be the only family in the medina with a pet cat!) They are following us!  This cat mob is very bad for already cat obsessed people like Emanne and I!

Much love to everyone,

Gabriella

 

September 25, 2010

Cous Cous Friday

To all of our family and friends who may not know of this,I introduce a beloved Moroccan phenomenon: Cous Cous Friday.  In Islam, Friday is a holy day.  Men are especially reverent about going to the mosque to pray, and the streets seem to quiet down just a little bit.  But even for non-Muslims in Morocco, the ritual of cous cous makes Friday special.  My host sister, (and our Darija teacher) Fatima Zahara, tells me that of course there are those who only prepare cous cous on a rare occasion- it is, after all, a very labor intensive dish to make.  Luckily for me, Fatima Zahara and her mother are not among this group.  They are avid lovers of cous cous (although I think most Moroccans are), and thus it is a central focus of the average Friday.  Fatima Zahara told me that in this house, the cous cous fanatacism goes so far as to indulge on even days that are not Friday- just because they can! 

  And so, lunch on Friday was greatly anticipated (not unlike every meal in this household, which my host mother prepares with unparalleled gourmet panache).  After a morning of careful crafting, my host mother Fatima presented a beautiful platter of red and blue porcelain as a mere backdrop to the endless pile of fluffy grain that sat atop it.  Too much, you ask?  Hardly.  The cous cous was accompanied by a stunning array of carrots, squash, and cauliflower stewed with what I believe was lamb.  I am a vegetarian, but even I could appreciate what appeared to be meat that all but fell off the bone.  The vegetables themselves were equally tender.  There was other food on the table, but who could pay attention to anything other than the starring dish?  Of particular note is the buttermillk that accompanies cous cous.  My family, who has played gracious host to innumberable foreigners in the past, informed me that their non-Moroccan guests rarely enjoy the buttermilk,but I found it to be a curious but well suited complement to the cous cous. 

  I proceeded through the meal with caution, lest I overindulge to the point of fatigue as is easy to do here, but nonetheless I thoroughly enjoyed this weekly decadence.  Just as we were all recovering from our midday feast (not until late in the day was the thought of more food even fathomable), and it seemed that the distant memory of such cous cous would have to sustain until the next Friday, a second platter appeared in time for dinner.  A lovely end to the holy day.

First days in Fez

After about a week in Fez, I finally feel settled in. I'm so much more familiar with my host family's routines as well as the family its self. There are the parents, Mohammad and Samira, who both speak only darija. There are also four children, two girls and two guys. One of the sisters is 26 and lives in London with her two children. The other daughter is 23 and speaks french, so I can easily communicate with her. The two brothers are 17 and 28, and they also speak french. Sena, the younger of the sisters, is works in the New City, but she is home often, and I eat most of my meals with her and the parents. They are all extremely nice and accomidating, especially when I was sick. The other day, due to a combination of dehydration and something I ate, I was unable to start my ISP, which will be pottery and Islamic art. I'm fairly sure that for the rest of the trip, I will be sure to drink plenty of water, because that was a horrible experience. I think that was the only time so far that I actually felt that I wanted to be home, where I could be totally in my comfort zone, in an uncomfortable situation. However, I'm enjoying living with the family; I can practice my french while learning words in darija.

The other day, on our way back from a lecture on Islam (which was great), Stewart, Kempie and I got a cab back to the Medina. It was getting dark and we had a to wait a while to find one, but eventually, we hopped into a cab and headed off to Bab Rcif. Kempie talked to the driver in the front seat while Stewart and I relaxed in the back, until suddently we pulled over. Except we really just stopped in the right lane as the driver hopped out and ran across four lanes of traffic to the rest stop across the way. Kempie tried to stop him and for a while Stewart and I were merely confused. I thought there was something wrong with the car until Kempie explained that he had gone to buy water. This was such a ridiculous idea to me that I couldn't help but to laugh. When he got back, he offered us some of the dates he had just bough, I declined as I thought of how unneccessary this stop was. As he started the car, he chugged down the milk he had also bought. He told us that he too was on his way home, but for some reason could not wait until he got there to eat. Eventually I made it home, after a swirving ride around the Medina, all the while the driver was eating and turning around to talk to us. While it may not have been the most comfortable ride, I don't think I'll ever forget it.

Off on our first excursion...

Salam from Fes! We have continued to contextualize our experience in Morocco during the end of this week. The students are beginning to be able to communicate in darija (Moroccan Arabic). They have been practicing with their host families over delicious couscous lunches! The student have also begun their Independent Study Projects (ISPs). On Thursday, we attended a contemporary art show of Jess Stephens, an expat working with artisan communities in the neighboring town of Sefrou. The ladies also celebrated their first week in Fes with their first henna! We also were fortunate enough to witness the Moulay Idriss Moussem, a festival in honor of Moulay Idriss II. A procession of dancers and men playing the ghrayat on horseback paraded the streets of Fes - it was quite an exciting event! This morning, the group participated in a fascinating lecture on Moroccan Social Movements with Fatima Sadiqi. She gracefully wove the women's, Amazigh (Berber), and Islamisist movement together to give us a more holistic view of Moroccan contemporary society. We were blessed to have this fantastic opportunity and all left more enlightened! This afternoon, we had tea on a rooftop cafe overlooking Bab Boujloud with a Peace Corps Volunteer who started a couscous rolling initiative in a small village in the Middle Atlas. We will partake in the fun of making couscous from scratch in a little over a month. So friends and family, look forward to a feast when your Global LAB student returns! Morocco is one of two North Africa/Middle East countries to host Peace Corps (the other is Jordan) and there are over 250 Peace Corps Volunteers in Morocco. Peace Corps Volunteers here are working in youth development, health, small business development, and environmental protection/conservation all over the country. Over sips of atay (Moroccan mint tea), the group learned more about the development, service, and cross-cultural experiences of the Peace Corps.

This weekend we will head off on our first excursion to the Atlantic seaside town of Asilah. Internationally known for its yearly Art Festival, Asilah boasts a quaint and colorful ambiance with mural painted medina walls. We will spend the next two days exploring this artist community - escaping the hustle and bustle of the Fes medina for a relaxing time filled with reflection on our past week and a half in Morocco and perhaps even a dip in the ocean on the other side of the Atlantic!


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Our first henna after Jess Stephen's art show

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The group with Fatima Sadiqi after an enlightening lecture on Moroccan Social Movements

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Dancers at the Moulay Idriss "moussem"

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William discusses Moroccan literature with some Moroccan graduate students

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Stewart learns how to wear a carpet during her apprenticeship with a local carpet expert

September 26, 2010

Arrival in Asilah

I spoke w/Kempie and The Fes Five have arrived safe and sound in the pretty Atlantic coast village of Asilah for two days of touring and relaxation befitting a seaside town. This low-key setting with its tidy, mural-flecked (courtesy of its annual summer cultural festival which attracts artists and performers throughout Africa), white-washed medina and its "Paradise Beach" will be a refreshing and airy downshift from the buzz of Fes.

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The Picturesque Tomb of Asilah's Marabout (Saint) Astride the Medina

September 28, 2010

Photos from Asilah

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Al fresco "Khobz" (bread) and Peanut Butter on Paradise Beach

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Nap Time...

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...Dreaming of Camels on a beach in North Africa

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Students in silhouette on Asilah's medina ramparts

Back Home...In Fes

The students have returned to Fes after their two nights in Asilah. Back to home-stays, ISPs, "darija" lessons, and they will begin a service activity at a shelter for homeless street boys tomorrow. More to come from the Fes Five soon.

Between Assilah and Fez

 

Currently, I'm sitting on the train back to Fez, and I cant quite decide if I'm more excited to go back or upset to leave Assilah. The train's brutally hot, especially since I prepared for a cold ride, like the one we had on the way down here. The novelty of a compartment, private and shut off for the rest of the train, has warn off. Assilah was the perfect break from the sticky bustle of Fez; the sea breeze, quiet town, and small, navigable Medina were perfect, and the white buildings seemed so clean. It was nice to have a break as well from the amount of food I've been fed in my home stay. While I know its only a form of hospitality, I can't quite take three large meals everyday. But in leaving Assilah, I'll be able to empty my overflowing day bag (mines not quite meant for weekend trips) and wash my clothes, in a familiar environment. On returning, I'll also get to work on my ISP of potter, which, after one lesson, has been great. Unfortunately, in neither place do I really have time to my self; in Assilah, we were almost always together as a group, and in Fez, I'm expected to spend all my time at home with the family. While I don't mind either, it would be nice to be alone for a bit and have some time to reflect, without the constant company. Like any place, both Fez and Assilah have their own unique pros and cons, as will any portion of our journey. I'm just so glad though that each portion will be broken up with excursions around the country. Not only does it allow for a change of pace, but it makes me appreciate the differences areas have to offer.


September 30, 2010

A visit to Ahli

Yesterday, the group visited Ahli, a center dedicated to addressing the social issue of street children in Fes. This association provides room and board to over 40 young boys who have for various reasons encountered the harsh life of living on the streets instead of going to school. Most of these boys lack a stable home environment, so Ahli provides this through food, shelter, education, and a dedicated and nuturing staff. Every semester, the Global LAB students engage in various enriching extracurricular activities with these boys.

After being warmly greeted by all of the boys individually, they sang a few songs for the group (including their own version of Shakira's World Cup song) - it was wonderful! We shared a few childhood songs as well and leanred the darija version of "Head, Shoulders, Knees, and Toes." Afterwards, the Global LAB students and Ahli boys taught each other games from our respective cultures. "Duck, duck, goose," "Red light, Green Light," and "the Blob" were our contributions (translated into darija, of course). The boys taught us an awesome number game as well as a game called "Old man, Hunter, and Lion." It was a fantastic experience and we all enjoyed playing and laughing with the boys! We will return next week to engage in an art exchange.

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Emanne "The Hunter"

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Goose!

Continue reading "A visit to Ahli" »

October 1, 2010

Party Crashing

Hard to believe it's Friday again. We started the day listening to Megan, a Fullbrighter, about her research on cultural identity and young women in Morocco.  I was surprised at how parallel some of her experience seemed to some of ours as a group-- Megan talked about trying to find her place in college, and again when she first came to Morocco-- I think each of us can identify with that in one way or another. 

At lunchtime, I headed back to Quartier Laayoune to my host family, where my sister Fatima Zohra was getting ready for a lunch party in the courtyard.  It looked like there were enough places to go around, so I invited myself to join.  The group was eclectic: FZ's best friend Miriam and business partner in FZ's language school; Robert, an American; Bonnie, also an American; and Bonnie's husband Gilles, who is French.  I felt lucky to be a part of such a diverse group- the conversation over the next few hours after they arrived covered everything from linguistics to blackmail.  My host mother prepared an incredible feast of couscous with chicken, squash, carrots, and cabbage, to which conversation played second fiddle.  As if that weren't enough, we had piles of fruit- apples, grapes, melon, and pomegranates.  Through the course of the meal, I learned a little about each of the guests and their work.  Robert and Miriam are both applying for Fulbrights, and Bonnie and Gilles restore old houses in the medina.  I was sort of a minority in my own right because I was the only one of the group not living permanently in Fes, and a good bit younger than the rest of the group-- and also not techincally invited, so I thought I'd just listen to the conversation, but it was impossible to resist getting involved.  Input from native and adoptive Moroccans and ex-pat Americans provided colorful discourse.  Darija, French, and English were used back and forth- amazing how seamless it was.  It was cool to hear about what brought the three foreigners to the country and drew them to Fes, as well as the work that kept the Fassi girls invested in their hometown.  All the while, everyone immensely enjoyed the meal, and as a tray of mint tea and cookies appeared, the guests and host were nearly falling asleep from such a big meal.  Lunch ran late into the afternoon, so there was no napping time before Arabic class.  Nothing formally planned in the morning, so I'm looking forward to a lazy morning tomorrow.


Hospitable Non Sequiturs

 

From counting lessons--shift--to "darija" greetings--shift--to a pitch for the best tagine in Fes, Gabriella and William capture on film Moroccans' penchant for lively, friendly gab (and the friendly sell)  

 

October 2, 2010

macaroni and brains

Last night, before dinner, I smelt a wonderful smell coming from the kitchen: spicy, warm, and almost familiar. I sat back in my chair and continued to read as my sister, Senea, brought out a large plate of pasta and tomato sauce. This was a good meal at the house, in my opinion, since it didn't take much bread to eat it and it was usually consisten and tasty. The sauce was tangy and delicious, eventhough it was hardly like the pasta sauce we get in the US. When I went to sit down at the table, I also noticed plates of what looked like chicken in tomato sauce; I'd had something similar for lunch, which had been delicious, so I was excited, but I did wonder why it wasn't in the pasta, like the rest of the meat sauces we had had. When began to eat, the chicken was far from me, so I waited for someone to offre it to me. As the plate was passed, I noticed that these were not bits of chicken, and thought that they were eggs. I took a small portion, but not small enough so they'd think that I'd need a second helping. Looking at the plate, I realized that these were not eggs, they were brains. I could see the twisty pattern of the tissue mixed in with the sauce, and decided that I would just mix them into my pasta and try a little bit. However, as soon as I did this, I was stopped, given bread, and told to eat them with the bread, not the pasta. So, I scooped up a heap of tomato sauce and brains and ate it. At first, I could only taste the spicy tomato, but soon the brains came to the forefront of my palet. While the taste wasn't bad, it wasn't good either. It had a slight metalic taste, like blood almost, but what was bad was the texture. Mushy and slimy, the meat just mashed with the bread. As long as I didn't think of what organ I was eating, I was fine, but as soon as I looked at the twisty bits, my mouth froze and I just didn't want to keep chewing. Eventually, with plenty of sauce and bread, I finished my plate and went back to the pasta; however, the pasta now seemed to have the same texture as the brains, and so I tried to eat that while thinking of something completely different, like my plans for the next day. I finished dinner, and it was fine. While it may not have been my favorite meal so far, it in now way turned me off from trying unfamiliar foods in the future, and now I can say I've eaten brains!

First Morocco solar unit to be thermal: agency chief

(Reuters) - Morocco, which plans to invest $9 billion to build five solar power stations, had opted for solar thermal technology for the first unit, to be set up in the southern Ourzazate area, its solar energy agency chief said.

The North African country's government had previously not revealed which solar technology it would choose, with officials saying they were open to all types.

"The first stage of the $9 billion solar project will be achieved to satisfy the needs of the country's electricity operator ONE which required the storage of power," Moroccan Agency for Solar Energy (MASEN) Chief Executive Officer Mustapha Bakoury said on Friday.

"That why we opted for technology of thermal solar for this stage involving the building of a solar power unit to produce at least 125 megawatts," Bakoury told Reuters in the sidelines of a business conference.

Continue reading "First Morocco solar unit to be thermal: agency chief" »

Morocco co-operatives strengthen female independence

Co-operatives are changing the lives of women, teaching them new skills and rewarding them with financial freedom. Read the 9/30/10 article in Magharebia.

Morocco's Largest Arabic Newsweekly to Fold Under State Pressure

The Atlantic documents Morocco's latest media casualty and struggles for press and speech freedoms.

Talk, Play, Eat


September 29

We're back in Fes and had another darija class this morning.  I had lunch at Gabby's and we talked with a woman who was either a friend or family member in her last year of university, and she was very interesting.  She was saying how American TV shows like My Super Sweet Sixteen and The Hills are so crazy and lavish, and we told her that our lives aren't like that!

In the afternoon we went to Ahli, a center where 30 boys who have rough family lives or have taken to the streets live during the week.  We taught them how to play Red Light Green Light using our newfound knowledge of darija words for colors, and they taught us a game where one person shouts out numbers and you have to make groups of that many people; anyone not in a group is out.  It was a lot of fun and great to see them in a positive environment.

I went back to my host mom's house afterwards and we went to the neighborhood souq, the market, to shop for dinner.  We got meat and back at her house we rolled them into flat meatballs, sort of like tiny little hamburgers.  It was so cool to cook a Moroccan meal and it was delicious as well!

Traveling Back in Time...

Tomorrow the group will be traveling to the nearby historic cities of Meknes, Volubilis, and Moulay Idriss. In Volubilis, the group will explore the very well-perserved ruins of the Westernmost outpost of the Roman Empire. Following our visit to Roman times, we will move forward into the late 700s when Moulay Idriss, the founder of the Idrisid dynasty, founded Fes. His remains lay in the town of Moulay Idriss where is he revered as a saint. Every year, hundreds of pilgrims travel to this sacred site to pay homage to the late great. We will enjoy a delicious homecooked meal overlooking this beautiful and quaint city on a hill followed by a walking tour from a local resident. On Monday, we will wander the streets of Meknes, the capital of Morocco under Moulay Ismail's rule in the late 1600s/early 1700s and learn a bit more about Moulay Idriss' intellegently fortified city and his reign. We will return to Fes on Tuesday morning to resume our ISP activities, darija classes, and a few more lectures before we head to the South next Sunday.

October 3, 2010

Cozy in Meknes

We've received a message from Kempie relaying that the Fes Five have concluded a wonderful, full day of touring the Roman ruins of Volubilis, the holy village of Moulay Idriss, and enjoyed a delicious repast. They're now in Meknes, cozy in their hotel, and will tour this Imperial City tomorrow.

October 5, 2010

Back in Fes

A quick note to inform Fes Five followers that the group has returned to Fes after their Meknes/Volubilis/Moulay Idriss excursion. Word has it that a few of the females experienced their first hammam (public bath), so I'm sure we'll eventually get a report or two on how this went...some photos of the excursion are also in queue. But first, the group is off to an afternoon lecture on efforts to restore Fes' medina--part of greater discussion on cultural heritage preservation.

Arc de Triomphe, Volubilis

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More Photos from Volubilis, Moulay Idriss & Meknes

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A local guide in front of one of Volubilis' well-preserved mosaics

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Better than sunscreen, the Fes Five sport local hats while lunching on a terrace overlooking the holy hamlet of Moulay Idriss

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Emanne, Kelsey and William by an intricately painted, wooden window shutter in Moulay Idriss

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Gabriella and Stewart with Moulay Idriss as a backdrop

Continue reading "More Photos from Volubilis, Moulay Idriss & Meknes" »

October 6, 2010

Itinerary Changes for the "Southern Swing"

Here is the latest schedule from the field:

Oct. 10-15: Trekking in The High Atlas Mountains

Oct. 16-18: Service Learning in The High Atlas Mountains

Oct. 19-25: Marrakech

Oct. 26-28: Essaouria 

Oct. 29: Ouarzazate
Oct. 30-Nov. 2: Tinghir/Taghazout - Service Learning
Nov. 3: Todra Gorge
Nov. 4-6: Merzouga (The Sahara)
Nov. 7-8: Itzer


 

October 7, 2010

What we've been up to...

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Bonnie explains the complex process of traditional "medina" restoration

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Kelsey, William, and Gabriella trace an Ahli boy

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Both Ahli boys and Global LAB students proudly display their artwork

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Emanne painting at Ahli

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Stewart asks a local published short story author about his influences

October 8, 2010

Wednesday

We went back to Ahli today, and this time we did art stuff.  We brought chalk and the kids traced themselves with it, like at a crime scene.  We also did watercolors.  I was painting a beach scene, and two of the kids near me started to copy me--so cute!

I had my second meeting with my ISP mentor Hatim in the evening at Café Clock and we talked more about the Moroccan media.  The journalist who wasn't able to come last time was supposed to come today and he did, but he explained that he couldn't talk to me because he didn't want to get in trouble for anything he would say.  It's funny to hear that coming from a journalist because usually they're on the other end of that!  And also because it's not like I'm doing anything that would get him in trouble anyways.  But oh well; I was fine talking to Hatim again.

Meknes


Our 3 day venture to Meknes was filled with so many interesting attractions, beautiful views, and new experiences that I had to wait until today to find the time to give justice to our trip.  At first glance Meknes looked like a beautiful city- low buildings, clean streets, taxis that were baby blue, and it was surrounded by mountains and olive groves.  And after our 3 days in Meknes, my first glance of the city proved to be correct!  It really was a wonderful place!

            After dropping our bags off at the hotel, all 6 of us crammed into a grand taxi (it was good practice for our upcoming 2 hour ride in a grand taxi...all together... with our bags!) to go to Volubilis, the ancient Roman ruins of the Westermost post of the Roman Empire.  The view of the surrounding area was beautiful; the fertile land around this area that originally drew the Romans to settle there is still host to numerous olive groves.  The ruins themselves were well preserved, the mosaics were almost all intact and still retained their color!  Those were especially wonderful!

            We left Volubilis to travel only 4km to the town Moulay Idriss- which was nestled on 2 of the surrounding mountains.  We had lunch on one of the higher points of the city (the climb was great practice for our trek next week!) and the view was breathtaking.  I wish all of you were with me- this was one of the most spectacular views I've seen in my life!

            When we arrived back in Meknes the group refreshed and some of us went out to explore the city.  Our wandering led us to the square, Place el Hedim, where there was a storyteller, a snake charmer, and musicians.  It truly was something out of a book! Visiting the square got us all excited for Marrakech where the square is 3 times as large!  I hope Ill be able to take all that excitement after our calm trek!

            The next day was filled with a guided tour (in French!) of the medina, a visit to one of the best museums in Morocco, and the Mausoleum of Moulay Ismail (who made Meknes the capital under his reign in the late 17th century).  However, the best experience (for me) of that day, and one of the best of the trip so far, was us girls' first trip to the hammam.  A hammam is essentially a public bath that has 3 rooms that go up in temperature.  You have a bucket or two to fill up with water (both hot and cold) from the two taps to create our own perfect temperature of bathing water.  It felt just amazing to get really, really clean (and scrub off all our dry skin... and my tan!) and not feel rushed to do so (to many Moroccans, especially women, the hammam is a place to relax and gossip about their daily lives so some spend 3-4 hours there!).  However, it was hot so all of us left after an hour or so of just pure bliss!

            My love to everyone! 

October 9, 2010

Saying B'slama (Goodbye) to Fes for now...Heading South

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We began our last day in Fes with an enriching lecture on Sufism with a local scholar on the topic who is currently working on a book about Moroccan Sufism. In the afternoon, we attended a performance of Jazz in Riads, an annual festival in Fes celebrating the rich Jazz tradition both locally and internationally. We were fortunate to hear some bossa nova style Jazz sung by a spirited Brazilian woman, Monica Passos, who exhibited her amazing vocal talents! This evening, the students celebrated their time with their very hospitable, generous, and caring homestay families. The party included some heartfelt thank yous from the students in darija (Morocan Arabic) and lots of sweets. The homestay families also hoped that the students would share their experiences with other Americans to help build bridges of understanding.

Early tomorrow morning, the group will be heading to Southern Morocco. We will spend tomorrow on an epic train ride from Fes to Marrakesh and then hop in a grand taxi to travel to the High Atlas. Tomorrow night, we will sleep in the High Atlas gateway town of Imlil. On Monday we will begin our 5 day trek in the Atlas mountains with the highest peak in North Africa, Toubkal, as a majestic background for our days. During the trek, we will pass through Amazigh (indigenous) villages and enjoy the spectacular views of these mountain peaks and fertile valleys. It will be a wonderful opportunity for us all to reflect on the experiences we have had thus far. In addition, it will be a great introduction to the rural Amazigh life in Morocco.

We will be out of email contact for the next week. Alex will update the blog as we go and you'll hear from the group when we arrive in Marrakesh on October 19th.

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Continue reading "Saying B'slama (Goodbye) to Fes for now...Heading South" »

October 10, 2010

Morocco draws on the elements for its green energy project

AFP

Sunday, 10 October 2010

Water, sun and wind: Morocco has launched an ambitious programme to harness the elements to produce "green" electricity to reduce its dependence on energy imports.

And eventually it even hopes to export the energy produced.

Lining the hills of Dhar Saadane, 126 windmills overlook the city of Tangiers, in what site manager Loubna Farabi says is the largest windmill park in Africa.

King Mohammed VI himself launched the site in June, one of the first steps towards Morocco's avowed aim of exploiting renewable energy sources. It has a capacity of 140 megawatts (MW).

But to get that green energy requires a lot of money up front, especially when you are dealing with relatively new technology.

Continue reading "Morocco draws on the elements for its green energy project" »

In Imlil, readying for the trek

After a long day of travel, the group has arrived safely in the village of Imlil--gateway to trekking in The High Atlas Mountains. As Kempie noted, the group will likely be out of contact over the next several days as they explore this region and meets its native North African inhabitants, the Imazighen ("The Free Men"), or "Berber", as commonly reffered to. If we receive any updates during their trek, we'll be sure to post them to this blog.HighAtlasBerbergirls_small.jpgAn Amazigh family portrait in The High Atlas Mountains  

October 12, 2010

In the Mideast, An Online Music Site with a Message

[See this NPR Story in full]

A new website dedicated to underground music from the Arab and Islamic world hopes to be a MySpace for musicians pushing for social change. Fans of hits like "I Shot You Babe" -- an Iraqi ditty based on the Sonny and Cher tune -- can find the songs on the Bahrain-based Mideast Tunes site [which currently includes a few bands from Morocco].

October 13, 2010

Midway through Trek, All is very good

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A High Atlas scene the Fes Five have likely basked in on their trek

"Sunny weather. All in good health & spirits. Enjoying the serenity of nature. 1/2 through trek." This was Kempie's text message today, and it's an enviable one. All is well in the high country....

October 15, 2010

The Trek has Ended...Happy Feet

And all are back--amazingly blister-free--in Imlil to stretch, sit, get horizontal, and likely seek a shower. If not hot, lukewarm will be just fine. The group is off to Ourika tomorrow after breakfast to begin their service-learning activities for a few days. We'll post another note once they've arrived at their destination.

October 16, 2010

In Douar Sgour

The group has made it to the Ourika valley village of Douar Sgour and at last word were enjoying a meal with their Amazigh home-stay families. Tonight they will attend an Ahwach--a traditional musical Amazigh performance. And tomorrow it's roll-up-your-sleeves Sunday as the students will plant scores of trees for the local community.

October 19, 2010

Morocco Makes Strides in Fight for Women & Peace

October 18, 2010

The north African country of Morocco is rarely the focus of U.S. media coverage, but its impressive record on increasing women's rights and fighting global terrorism is being noticed around the world. Because of the traditional Muslim country's progressive approach, Morocco is now a strong U.S. ally and a reliable U.N. partner.

Host Michel Martin discusses Morocco's strides with Mbarka Bouaida, the youngest member of Morocco's parliament and chairwoman of its Committee of Foreign Affairs, National Defense and Religious Affairs. Listen to the NPR interview.

Arrival in Marrakech

The Fes Five have made their way to "The Pearl of the South", Marrakech, which they'll call home for the next 6 days. Back to the buzz of the city after a long stretch in the mountains. Look out for photos from their High Atlas jouney and blog postings soon.

October 20, 2010

Jammin' Out in the High Atlas

 

In the evening after the fourth day of trekking which was a long and strenuous hike, we had a jam sesh with our guide Hassan, the mulemen/chefs Mohammed and Hussein, and the guesthouse staff. All the Moroccan guys were playing pans and buckets and singing, and I got the chance to play the cutting board banging against a bench. All the guys were moving in synch like they'd practiced the movement so many times, and Hassan and Mohammed had a really funny dance with their shoulders and acted like they were in a dance-off.


After a fun and entertaining evening we decided to sleep outside, but because there was risk of rain we had to sleep under a roof so we weren't able to see the stars. Luckily it didn't get too cold!


Glimpses into Rural Amazigh Life

Leaving Imlil to begin our trek, I didn't really know what to expect. The only thing I was quite sure of was that it was going to be hot and challenging. And, yes while at times it was both (and filled with me singing Eye of the Tiger in my head), much of the experience was a great deal more!

The daily hikes were wonderful and set against dramatic sights: towering red mountains, goat and sheep covered hills, gurgling and rushing streams (even a waterfall!) and stretches of fertile land. There was also much time to reflect on the trip and Morocco thus far and to think about all sorts of things. I appreciated the time to look at my life back at home and to see it from a different perspective.

 

However, the most memorable times (for me!) were not the hikes but our nightly stops at guesthouses in different Berber villages. I enjoyed seeing a whole new aspect of Moroccan life and culture. And we had so much fun during the evenings! We enjoyed delicious soup made by our great "mule men", slept (almost) under the stars, and ate a lot of well deserved chocolate and candy bars! But nothing compares to the dancing and singing and music fiesta that occurred on our last night of the trek. The guesthouse staff, our mule man, and our guide Hassan (who deserves a blog post solely about him!) took empty plastic bottles, pots, and pans and performed Berber music for us. At first the group was just sitting around, clapping along, but by the end all of us were up dancing and just having a great time!

 

The last day, when the group was standing on top of the highest pass, all of us felt so accomplished. There were some verses of Be a Man (which will soon be turned into the Fes Five's own version of "Be Emanne") as we climbed down the rocky mountain and finished our awesome, dirty, strenuous, and memorable trek.


Reflections from Meknes

After being in Morocco for a few weeks, I couldn't shake the presence of religion in my thoughts. Before the trip, I didn't tend to give much thought to religion in my day-to-day life, nor do I practice it with any regularity. But it is hard to keep the idea far from my mind when Islam is so deeply ingrained in every aspect of life here. I've done some writing as I've tried to better understand the way that the culture of a religion shapes this country, and in doing so, I've been thinking about how that relates to me and my life now and back in the US.

 

A withered woman, weary eyed

Reflects my gaze, clouded, fatigued.

 

Shame heats my blood, aware

of a life and trials I'll never know-

God willing- across the Mahgrib,

so the hope echoes.

The sounds adorn an edifice,

filled with chambers of the heart

built on trust in Allah's presence,

doors I cannot part.

 

An ancient land belabored

by sewage rivers after rain

claims common denominator

across classes and terrains

 

In my country, some know their god,

but for patrimony preserved,

a devoted secularism,

my soul stays unperturbed

Towering minarets of jade,

the inescapable sight

further reminded four times each day,

a fifth on sleepless nights

We pass one another,

her pious stare is resolute,

and though she quavers as she walks,

I struggle to feel moved.

Our Colorful Guide, Hassan

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Hassan, 2nd from the left, leads an impromptu jam session with fellow Imazighen

Perhaps more so than the deep red clay of the mountains, or the pastel streaks in the sunrise, it was the personality of our guide Hassan that colored much of our trek experience. Hassan was not the stoic, sage old mountain man that I was expecting to have as a guide for our trip. He is only a few years older than most of us, and a few younger than Kempie, and so either due to personality or immaturity, he had as many ups and downs in demeanor as we had in physical altitude. From day one, Hassan was constantly listening to his music with headphones. Depending on his mood, which would change dramatically at the drop of a hat, he could be singing aloud boisterously or seeming to sulk a bit to himself with the music as his consolation. Hassan wasted no time in informing us that he loved to joke. Sometimes we all laughed with him, but other times it seemed that the punch line got lost in translation, leaving Hassan to characteristically cackle while we shrugged our shoulders to one another. Apart from the occasional joking outburst, however, Hassan kept to himself at first. We did see him come out of his shell more during the times when we walked along with his good friends, our mule guides/cooks. But after a bit of nudging from Kempie, he spent more time engaged with us, and we were all the more entertained for it. Kempie was victim to a number of pet names, and apart from that William was the only one who's name Hassan cared to remember for awhile. He very much appreciated having William around for male camaraderie. He made note of Kelsey in the way that he was very excited whenever she smiled- he was under the impression that she was too somber our first day. Gabby was known mostly as 'Little Girl,' with great affection, and Emanne was 'Palestinian Girl' until Hassan learned her first and last name via her backpack. I don't think I had a particular nickname, other than being called 'Berber Girl' once or twice. Hassan enjoyed impressing us with his knowledge of America, and told us of his grand dream of seeing the White House. Occasionally, however, we had to ask Hassan to pause his ever running commentary, when he would get going about his peculiar love for Dutch women, or his desire to explain to us the unexpected consequences of a "massage" in a city. And somehow admidst Hassan's often confusing 'jokes,' we still learned a lot about our surroundings. He would answer any of our questions about the local way of life or the crops we saw, and enlist the help of the nearest villager when he didn't know the answer. He told us about each village we passed through, and of course, fearlessly led us across the mountains to our destinations each night. Good times were had all around when Hassan made use of his singing habit on the nights when he would lead the other guides and guest house staff men in impromptu jam-sessions, complete with chanting, dancing, and pots and pans for percussion. Needless to say, we were all sad to bid Hassan farewell this morning, but 'Inchallah,' we'll see him when he comes to the United States to visit us at the White House.

Some Reluctant Thoughts

In awaiting the chance to complete some lengthier work, I have decided to post a bit of my response to the Global Lab internal survey about the first third of the trip, a short reflection I wrote in response to the series of questions "'What was your most meaningful experience in Fes Phase I? How were you stretched during this experience? What did you learn about yourself? What could you have done without?'"

 

The day at Moulay Idriss and Volubilis stands out in my mind as the most meaningful experience of this part of the trip. Volubilis, the Roman ruin which has stood for millennia, continues to fade into the hillside, and tourists leave their mark on the surrounding areas (and sometimes even within the old city). This societal transience has left a lasting impression on me and an urgency that we must make the most of the little time given us. The decay of the walls of Moulay Ismail's fortresses in the comparatively short period of the three centuries or so since the end of his reign in Meknes brings to mind a sense of the limited importance of individuals, and even generations as a whole, and that action is the only absolution for a previously idle life. The above thoughts and the example of the intriguing people I have met have inspired me to take a less passive view of the world at large and the courage to take a more active role in the society around me.

 

Those thoughts, however, are not strictly original: they were paraphrased and, in some cases, copied verbatim from a letter I wrote after the Hotchkiss trip to Antarctica now nearly two years ago. Nothing really changed, even though the language of the letter would certainly suggest so. I'm not sure this trip so far really has stretched me, and on reflection on that idea, I'm not sure if I actually understand what people really mean when they talk about being "stretched." I don't know how much I can say that any one experience in my life has on its own elicited any great changes in me. I believe less in the idea of "life-changing experiences" than in the idea that events are only made important by how we apply them going forward. Rather obviously, I have no idea how I will apply my three months in Morocco in the future.

 

It wasn't anything new to me, but I received further confirmation I rely on intellectual stimulation for my own peace of mind. For a while in Fes, I felt the sort of "cabin fever" often associated with retirees who suddenly find themselves unfulfilled. I filled this by printing my own reading material and spending more time at internet cafes reading the news and talking to my parents than was probably necessary. At the same time, I think it is difficult, and somewhat patronizing to prescribe someone's experience, and looking at some of my old writing living in a country whose literary culture is thoroughly submerged in postcolonialism was eye-opening, and, in fact, the topic of my upcoming blog entry, which you should expect to see published sometime between now and my execution for lack of publication.


Postcolonialism and the Mind

I'll begin by saying I don't particularly care for blogs, writing them at least. I am rather adverse to spontaneous forms of composition, which probably says a great deal about me as a person. I even have largely tended to avoid journaling, as I become too engrossed in the minutiae of quotidian efforts two write meaningfully, and become too frustrated by the demands on my time of writing down everything I have already lived. Additionally, my own personal code dictates that critical analysis of events at their occurrence is necessarily almost entirely futile: only in time can their significance be ascertained, largely due to our underlying human psychological need for our life's stories to conform to a comprehensible pattern. For these reasons, I have spent an inordinate amount of time preparing this.

At first I was wracked by tremendous uncertainty as far as a writing subject goes. What would be worth writing about? What would I want posted for anyone to see? What would be something more than simply typing drivel to fulfill a quota? Not much came to mind. My impressions of places I have visited are not yet coherent enough to describe them with meaning; I'm not sure if anything gives me the right to broadcast the daily lives of my homestay family into the nebulous cloud of the internet. My experiences are largely individual and I believe of little value to any reader. Perhaps this even shares that same inutility.

After reflection, however, I found that sharing my discussions and later musings on the first meeting of my Moroccan Literature may shed some light on both my thoughts in-country and on some of the material I have been studying. September 23, (how long ago) I met with Fatima, our in-country coordinator, and two Moroccan graduate students of linguistics and sociology (I believe), Al-Ghali and Ilyas to discuss Moroccan literature. I am currently pressed for time, lacking some of the resources I need to complete this, and have my program leader and fellow students waiting for me for us all to have the chance to explore Jemaa' el-Fna (sp?), so I will leave this post here, and return to it when I have the chance.


October 21, 2010

Explorations in Marrakesh

On Tuesday, we left the quiet and quaint surroundings of the Ourika Valley for Marrakesh, the bustling "Pearl of the South." We transitioned from desolate dirt roads to cobblestone city streets filled with motorcycles, bicycles, and many pedestrians - each trying to weaving around the other. While the contrast between the two surroundings is stark, the group is enjoying the exciting vibrancy of this great city! We have spent our first 3 days in the city getting oriented to our new surroundings. We have visited the well-presented Dar Si Said museum, learned how the skilled Marrakeshi craftsmen make everything from iron lamps and "poofs" (traditional Moroccan cushions) to recycled tire chairs and tin can picture frames. We have also visited the Mellah (old Jewish neighborhood) now occupied by numerous herbalists selling traditional medicine and even some "black magic" remedies. Yesterday afternoon, our wonderful Swedish host, Gita, offered a traditional garment demonstration in which the group learned about the rich and creative fashion trends in Morocco. We also had the opportunity to model some of the ornate costumes and have a photo shoot in the beautiful surroundings of the riad (house with an open courtyard and 4 gardens) we are staying in. The students also had an introductory music lesson in a local shop. They experimented with gnawa instruments of the karkabas (castanets) and the gimbri (a 3 stringed guitar originating from West Africa) - practice for our upcoming Gnawa concert in Essaouira. The students also learned some Arab, Berber, and African beats on the drums.

This morning, we had an fascinating lecture on Berber-Sahara Identity and Race Relations in Morocco. Our speaker, Mohammed Soudani, educated us on the history of migration and race relations throughout the dynasties of Morocco and also shared a touching personal story of his grandfather who as a boy was sold in the slave market in Marrakesh. Marrakesh was a prominent stop along the trans-Saharan trade route coming from Timbuktu. In the afternoon, the group explored the souks (markets). We wandered through the alleyways of babouches (slippers), leather goods, recently dyed yarn and sweets and spices to name a few. After a delicious lunch on a terrace overlooking Rahba Kedima square, we visited a carpet shop and witnessed the daily carpet auction where men from the surrounding villages come to sell the carpets made by their wives and mothers. The students also had a chance to begin their Independent Research in Marrakesh.

Tomorrow we will begin our Amazigh/Berber language lessons - learning some Tachelheit and Tamazight (2 of the 3 prominent Berber languages in Morocco) - to help us communicate as we continue our journey throughout the South. We will also have a lecture on the Traditions of Storytelling in Morocco.


Images from our High Atlas Trek

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First Pass of the Trek.jpg

October 22, 2010

New talks in November on WSahara dispute: UN envoy

ALGIERS -- Morocco and the Polisario Front will hold a fresh round of talks on the future of Western Sahara in early November, the UN special envoy for Western Sahara said.

Polisario had indicated it was available to take part in the talks scheduled for the beginning of next month, the Sahrawi news agency SPS reported, Christopher Ross said during a tour of the region.

Ross was talking to journalists before leaving the Algerian capital for Nouakchott in Mauritania.

Talks he had Wednesday with Polisario chief Mohamed Abdelaziz in Sahrawi refugee camps in Tindouf, southwest Algeria, had covered "the need to lessen tensions and avoid any incident that could worsen the situation or hamper discussions," he said.

Earlier, Algeria's APS news agency reported Ross as saying he hoped for advances in a settlement to the conflict over the region. Morocco annexed Western Sahara in 1975.

His talks with Abdelaziz had enabled them to look at ways to calm tensions and avoid complications to the negotiations, he said.

It was his fourth trip to the region since becoming special envoy in January 2009.

The Polisario Front, supported by Algeria, wants a referendum on self-determination, with independence as one of the options.

Morocco has pledged to grant the territory widespread autonomy but rules out independence.

Ross has already met Algerian President Abdelaziz Bouteflika on his trip. He is due next in Mauritania and Morocco.

The last informal meeting between Morocco and the Polisario Front took place in February near New York, but broke up without progress after two days.

A UN-sponsored ceasefire has held in the Western Sahara, which lies south of Morocco on the Atlantic seaboard, since 1991.

Morocco controls the bulk of the territory and Polisario runs the rest, with bases and refugee camps around Tindouf in neighbouring Algeria.

October 23, 2010

Images from Marrakech

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Dress Rehearsal

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All Dressed Up

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In the Dyers Souq

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The Fes Five recreate a scene from the Hitchcock film, "The Man Who Knew Too Much," which was filmed in Marrakech

Continue reading "Images from Marrakech" »

October 24, 2010

Images from Service-Learning in Ourika

Emanne and Mohamed (from the Global Diversity Foundation) get their hands dirty.jpg

Emanne and Mohamed (from the Global Diversity Foundation) get their hands dirty

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Kelsey plants an olive tree

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We got by with a little help from our (Moroccan) friends

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A local boy waters the planted trees

Continue reading "Images from Service-Learning in Ourika" »

October 26, 2010

In Essaouira

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Ships of the Desert & Surf: Essaouira

The Fes Five have made their way to the precious Atlantic coastal town of Essaouira, the "Windsurfing Capital of Africa", where they'll spend the next few days. With its own UNESCO World Heritage-minted medina, impressive ramparts, and a mellow vibe attracting artists and musicians, the group will have plenty to absorb at a leisurely, seaside pace.

October 27, 2010

Everybody's going surfing...

Yesterday we concluded our week in Marrakesh and headed for the quaint fishing town of Essaouira. In our last days in Marrakesh, the students learned how to conjugate verbs and identify family members (very important in Moroccan culture!) in Tachelheit (one of the 3 main Amazigh/Berber languages). We also explored the Jardin Majorelle gardens and enjoyed this haven away from the bustling medina. The garden was purchased by fashion designer Yves St Laurent and given as a gift to Marrakesh before he died. On Sunday evening, we had the privilege of experiencing a Sufi dhikr in which religious invocations are sung a cappella. The Sufi dhikr serves to both praise and remember God simultaneously. The power of these Sufi men's voices was truly remarkable! On Monday, the students learned how to make a characteristically Marrakeshi dish, tanjia (meat cooked in a special pot and left to simmer at the fires behind the public bath for hours). We finished our time in Marrakesh with one last sunset over Djema El Fna and one last delicious meal in the square - there is no place like it! The ladies also got some intricate henna before we left the city.

Now, the group is enjoying the quiet and relaxed surroundings of the seaside town of Essouaira, a city known for its yearly Gnawa Music Festival. Yesterday, we explored the Portuguese, Arab, Jewish, and French heritage of this well designed city. This afternoon the group is going surfing! Everyone is very excited for their first surf experience and it's a beautiful day! We couldn't ask for more. In the next 2 days we will also have the opportunity to hear some local Gnawa music and visit an argan oil cooperative. The argan tree is unique to Morocco and produces some of the richest oil (both for culinary and cosmetic purposes) in the world.

Atay

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Kelsey prepares tea at sunset in Essaouira

In Marrakech we're staying in a guesthouse owned by a Swedish woman named Gita who's traveled to so many places to learn about different types of dance and has been living here for quite some time so she knows a lot about the area. The place is so pretty; it's a riad so there's a big courtyard in the center with gardens and Moroccan architecture. Stewart and I's room is turquoise and sea theme and so pretty.

Marrakech is known for its square, Jemaa el Fna, which hosts many stands and street performers. It really comes alive at night when all the restaurant area gets set up and more performers start working.

I'm doing a mini independent study project on tea while we're in Marrakech, and have been reading a Moroccan cuisine book from Gita's library, but I also went to an herb store to learn about tea firsthand. The man I talked to was really nice and I was really happy because we were speaking in French and we could understand each other easily! This is definitely due to all the speaking practice I've gotten here; no way would I have been able to have an in-depth conversation about tea before the trip.

I asked him how to prepare tea the Moroccan way and what he told me confirmed what I had read in the book, but it was good to hear an explanation from an actual Moroccan. Then I asked him what herbs were good to put in tea, aside from the green tea and fresh mint that are the staples of Moroccan tea. What I ended up getting is anise, which came in a star-shape form, and can be used for soothing the stomach, and vervaine, which adds flavor.

On my way back, it was raining really hard and the street, which was not as narrow as the ones in Fes but still cobblestone and not very wide, was literally a river with no dry place to walk. I'm so glad I was wearing my flip-flops and had thought to bring my rain jacket!

The next evening Emanne and I walked around the restaurant stalls in Jemaa el Fna to do some ISP research. I went to a stall that was selling mint tea and harira, Moroccan soup. The man there was too busy to talk to me and I think might not have spoken much French, but he directed me to one of the customers. I asked him my tea questions and he was very helpful and nice. I don't know whether he has professional experience with making tea, or just knows about it from being Moroccan!

Tea wasn't my only foray into the world of Moroccan cuisine. On our last day in Marrakech, we cooked our own lunch: tangia, a Marrakech speciality. We went to a Moroccan house down the street and two of women living there helped us make it. Tangia is meat (we used lamb) cooked in a special vase-shaped clay pot with saffron, cumin, garlic, butter, lemon, and water. We brought the pot to the hammam to cook it. It was really good, and afterwards the women gave us each an orange picked right off their tree!

We took the bus today to Essaouira, a small coastal city. We walked around for a bit and it seems like a really chill and relaxing place but with plenty of things to see and do.

We presented the ISPs we did in Marrakech to each other, and to show off my project on tea I threw a tea party for the group. I had already gotten some of the herbs, but I had to find fresh mint. I made mint tea flavored with vervaine and anise and prepared it in the traditional Moroccan way; it was very delicious.

Goat Hammam

Our last night in the village in the Ourika Valley, we decided to take advantage of the shower there. Kempie told us they had mini, two person hammams, which sounded nice and refreshing. At my home stay, Kelsey, who was also staying there, and I really didn't get a chance to explore most of the house, and were only familiar with our room and the bathroom. However, when we went to take a shower, we were lead to an area of the house that I had no idea even existed. We walked across the court yard, down a few steps and then into a dimly lit room, where we found a cow, goats, sheep, chickens, and so many rabbits. I was so surprised. But then it made sense since I had heard extremely laud mooing earlier and our host mother had indicated milking a cow earlier, which I just had assumed meant milk. We walked into the stable area and then into a little nook. On the ground were about fifteen bunnies curled up by the wall. They were so cute and looked completely terrified. We ducked down and entered the room of the hammam with buckets of steaming hot water. The bathing area was very small, but well insulated and cozy. It was wonderful and refreshing to take a nice hot shower, and it was nice to have a contrasting experience of a city hammam and a village one. Coming out of it, the cow mooed at us and a sheep and goat started to but heads together, and the whole time I had had no idea that there were even any animals under this roof.

Marrakech Mini-ISP Presentations

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Emanne explains the dynamics of food stalls in Djema El Fna

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Gabbi shares her Herbalist knowledge

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Stewart shares her sketches of Marrakech

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Stewart's sketch from the terrace of Riad Arabesca

Surf's Up!

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Getting our Surfing Feet Ready...On Land...Before Testing the Atlantic

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Heading to the Waves

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Learning the Basics

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Ready to Go

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Post-Surf Satisfaction!

October 28, 2010

Liquid Gold in Morocco

Although this New York Times Travel Magazine story is a few years old, it still provides a relevant glimpse into the burgeoning Argan Oil industry in Morocco--not far from Essaouira where the group is currently. The students did visit an Argan Oil Co-op the other day so look out for details/photos of this excursion.

On the Move...

Tomorrow morning, the group will head east into the land of kasbahs and palm trees. We will be in Ouarzazzate tomorrow exploring one of the most well-preserved kasbahs in Morocco, Ait Benhaddou. We also hope to visit a film studio. Ouarzazzate is known as the North African movie capital or Moroccan Hollywood. Movies such as Gladitor, Star Wars, and Kundun have been filmed in this city. After a breif overnight stay in Ouarzazate, we will head further east to Tinghir where we will spend a few days participating in some service-learning activities in a close by village. We will be collaborating with local Peace Corps Volunteers on a health and mural project in the village. The students will also get the opportunity to stay with a Amazigh/Berber family here as well. After our service-learning activities, we will head into the Todra Gorge for some relaxing in the serene natural surroundings. Then we will head further into the silence of nature by enjoying a few days reflecting in the desert. Since we will be on the move and in more rural surroundings in the next week, we will be mostly out of email touch, but Alex will inform all of our loyal blog readers as to our whereabouts and activities.

October 29, 2010

In Ouarzazate ("Where's Ez At")...and so is the King

The Fes Five have made their way across the dramatic High Atlas Mountain pass of Tizi n Tichka (7,414 feet) and have arrived safely in Ouarzazate. Apparently King Mohammed VI is in town as well. Nice company. This afternoon, the group will tour the magnificent kasbah of Ait Benhaddou and possibly have a fairy-tale reverie or two.

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Ait Benhaddou at Dawn, courtesy of Michael Trezzi

In the Souks of Marrakesh

When we first arrived in Marrakesh, I felt quite overwhelmed with all the places to see, shops to visit, performers to watch. Moreover, it was an extreme change from the trek and my home stay in Ourika Valley where I was surrounded only by nature and was unconnected from the rest of the world. However, after a day or two I felt clear headed and was greatly enjoying our "holiday". It was fun to people watch in cafes, shop for gifts, take pictures, ect. But I still felt much too touristy and was longing to connect with some of the residents on a level that was not purely business, which seemed almost impossible in Marrakesh where tourism is like a plague.

Then one day while wandering the souks with Emanne and Kelsey, I started talking with one of the owners of the shops with wooded decorations and figures. What's even more fun is that some of the items (like kebobs sticks) are carved not with hands, but with feet! I was searching for a specific item (which can't be said because it will ruin the surprise) for my dad and this man had the best quality around. But after inquiring the price, a daunting 1200 dirham, I knew bargaining was fruitless and just did it for fun (it has become my favorite activity!). I left the shop with the price down to 500 (still too expensive) but with both of us on good terms. I thought that would be the end of our acquaintance but fate had it (or the fact that one can get completely turned about in a souk) that we passed him again. All three of us stopped in to say hello and I again asked him to lower the price. Finally, we settled on a most agreeable price and, now that business was done, all of us sat down for a little bit to talk to him. While in the States it might be considered quite odd to be asked, and ask, the number of family members one has, their names, what they do, ect by a stranger; in Morocco its normal, even almost rude not to! While we got up to go he said how he hoped that tomorrow we would come back for some mint tea. Of course we expressed our thanks, said yes, inshallah ("If God Wills It") and wandered off into the souk.

And the next day we wandered back into the souk and went back to our friendly shopkeeper (picking up some Moroccan cookies for him on the way). We sat down, drank mint tea, and chatted. It was so nice to practice darija and talk to a Marrakesh resident without having to whip one's wallet out afterwards! As we were finishing up our last sips of tea, he asked us how many more days we were staying in Marrakesh. We told him this was our last night there. He looked sad and said how that was such a shame because he wanted all of us to come over his parent's house for couscous and to meet his sisters and parents. When we said how we would have loved that too and hopefully next time we come to Marrakesh with family or friends we could go, he got happy again. We left the shop with smiles and much thanks on both sides.

While this wasn't a huge event by any means, it was still one of my favorite experiences in Morocco thus far. It was such a heartfelt wish and it just warmed by heart, and surprised by brain, to hear such genuine hospitality. Which is something most Westerners can learn more about!

Reflections on place

I think of myself as a city person. I love the pace, the noise, the chaos. But in Morocco, I have found myself most fond of our time spent in nature. Asilah, early on, and Essaouira, more recently, have made me able to relax in a way that I couldn't in Fes or Marrakesh. Though the two former are certainly cities in their own right, I think of them more in the context of their setting. The ocean air hits you right as you step off the bus or train, and for me, that is usually a signal that I'm in a happy place. My favorite moments so far were spent in the mountains and the countryside. After spending a few weeks surrounded by a dramatically new environment, the mountains seemed like a welcome break. They were foreign terrain, but something about the feeling of self reliance and camaraderie that accompany camping made me feel more at home than I have in the Moroccan cities. Speaking the language and understanding how to get somewhere or where to buy something are secondary to sleeping, eating, and hiking. I realize that the familiarity of these settings is what draws me to them. The ocean is the ocean, whether I am at the beach in Georgia with my family or attempting to surf in Esssaouira with our group. The mountains are still mountains whether I am at camp in the Blue Ridge or trekking through the Atlas. I am more aware now of how familiarity helps me to contextualize and process new experiences. When I am reminded of the people and places I love in the midst of a new adventure, it makes it easier for me to enjoy the situation at hand. Of course, as I write, I find exception to my own rule. I am on the rooftop of a restaurant outside of Ourzazate. It is evening, and no one else is around me- as the group hikes up the Kasbah, I've stayed behind because of a knee problem. The sun has just set, and the sky is streaked electric orange in its reflection in the clouds above pink, flat-topped hills. Below, I see palms stretch endlessly along a little river. This new land, with its gigantic palms and Kasbah, standing solemnly before me, makes the scene feel exotic and unfamiliar. It doesn't remind me of any place I've ever seen before, but it provides a beautiful new context in its own right.

October 30, 2010

More Adventures in Essaouira...

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Choices, choices....

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Gabby, Kelsey, and Emanne at Essaouira's fish market

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A Gnawa Jam Session

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Kelsey gives Argan Nut cracking a try

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The manual process of making Argan Oil at a Women's Cooperative

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Mmmmm. To-the-bone delicious!

Images from 'round Ouarzazate: Ait Benhaddou Kasbah & Atlas Film Studios

Kasbahs and palm trees.jpg

Kasbah amidst Palm Trees

Getting on a mule is not as easy as it seems.jpg

Getting on a Mule is not as easy as it seems

William and Gabi mule it over the river to Ait Benhaddou.jpg

William and Gabby "mule it" over the river to Ait Benhaddou

Sunset at the top of Ait Benhaddou.jpg

Sunset at the top of Ait Benhaddou

When in Egypt.jpg

When in Egypt...

Gabriella gets a ride on the camera trolley.jpg

Gabriella gets a ride on the camera trolley

Stupa from Kundun.jpg

Stupa from the motion picture, "Kundun," which was filmed in Morocco

No King Mohammed VI or Hillary Clinton sightings, but we still enjoyed our time in Moroccan Hollywood!

When we arrived in Ouarzazate, the streets were lined with Moroccan flags. In Morocco, this always means the King is visiting the city. Although we didn't catch a glimpse of King Mohammed VI or Hillary Clinton (who was apparently in town as well), we did thoroughly enjoy our time here! The group had a blast exploring the film sets at the Atlas Film Studio. We saw sets from The Jewel of the Nile, Kundun, Gladiator, Kingdom of Heaven, and The Mummy among others. We also hiked up to the top of a UNESCO world heritage site, Ait Benhaddou, one of the most well preserved fortresses or kasbahs in the country. Riding a mule to cross the river to get there and the view from the top were both thrilling highlights! Today, the group enjoying a relaxing day by the pool. Yes, we are thrilled to still be in a warm climate when it's almost November! Although the pool was a bit chilly. 

Tomorrow the group will head directly to a village near the city of Tinghir. The students will be living with homestay families in the area for a couple of days and participating in hygiene and mural service-learning projects with local students and Peace Corps Volunteers. Afterwards, we will enjoy a relaxing day in the Todra Gorge - one of the most beautiful places in Morocco, in my opinion. Afterwards the group will head to Merzouga for some camel trekking in the dunes of the Sahara!

Everyone is excited for Halloween tomorrow and we look forward to dressing up and celebrating with the locals! It will most certainly be a Halloween to remember. So Happy Halloween to all of our blog readers! We'll be celebrating a few hours earlier than you, but with the same festive spirit!

October 31, 2010

En Route to Douar Taghzoute

I received a text from Kempie relaying that the group had made its way to Tinghir by bus and were in a grand taxi en route to their final destination: the small Douar (village) of Taghzoute. They will likely be out of cell range (not to mention Internet) for the next few days, busy co-mingling with local Peace Corps Volunteers and engaging in home-stays and health awareness service learning activities. If I receive any update, I will post them to this blog.

November 2, 2010

Inside the Todra Gorge

Todra_nexus_uk.jpg
A view of the Todra Gorge, courtesy of Nexus_UK

The Fes Five have arrived in the Todra Gorge where they will stay the next 2 nights, enjoying these spectacular canyon narrows before moving on to The Sahara.

Global LAB's Halloween Morocco Traditions

Kelsey Apple Bob.jpg

Kelsey tests her Apple-Bobbing Skills in the Annual Global LAB Morocco Halloween Contest

William Apple Bob.jpg

Aerial View: William goes deep

Stewart Apple Bob.jpg

Stewart scores!

Apple Bob Kempie.jpg

The reigning champ, Kempie, shows how it's done

Cookie Making.jpg

Halloween Cookie Preparation

Cookies.jpg

The Sweet Ending....

November 4, 2010

At Desert's Doorstep in Merzouga

Big_Sandy.jpg
The Fantastic Dunes of Erg Chebbi: what's in store for the Fes Five the next few days

On a chilly rainy day along the east coast, warmth and envy are provoked by Kempie's text of today: all are hanging out by the pool on a Saharan fall afternoon, a sunrise hike along the dunes is planned for tomorrow--only to be trumped by the overnight camel caravan deeper into the desert tomorrow afternoon. Most zween (the darija word for "nice", "great", "beautiful" and other superlatives). A "Wish You Were Here" on their behalf to all.

November 6, 2010

Diplomacy over Western Sahara: Morocco v Algeria

Can yet another bout of talks break a 35-year-old stalemate?

Read the latest on this issue in The Economist.

Phosphate: Morocco's White Gold

Phosphate is used in everything from fertilizer to rechargeable batteries. And Morocco's King Mohammed VI has cornered the market.

Read the article in Bloomberg BusinessWeek.

Cyberspaces and Jewish Places

Volunteers around the world are mapping the ancient Jewish communities of North Africa and the Middle East using GPS, Google Earth, and other 21st century technologies, while virtually recreating almost-lost communities along the way. Morocco is home to 60%+ of the sites thus far documented....

Read the article in Haaretz.

November 7, 2010

Arrival in Itzer


View Larger Map

The group has safely arrived in Itzer (unmarked on the map above, but just due south of Bou Ani, off the serpentine secondary road), a small village in The Middle Atlas Mountains, where they will spend the next two nights coordinating activities/experiences with a local Peace Corps volunteer. A couscous-making workshop is on tap for tomorrow....Slowly but surely, Captain Kempie and the Fes Five are making their way back to Fes. 

November 9, 2010

In Ifrane

The students have made their way to Ifrane, a scenic "alpine hamlet" and ski resort noted for its Swiss chalet architecture and home to Al Akhawayn University (AUI). AUI is Morocco's noted English-language institute of higher learning and where the group will enjoy a couple of lectures in addition to meeting Moroccan students. The Fes Five seem to have inside information on the King's schedule: he was to arrive in Ifrane today, so the group was going to try to catch a roadside glimpse. Over the next two days, they will also visit the nearby village of Azrou, perhaps tour a carpet-making co-op, and hike through the Cedar Forest with the hope of spotting endangered Barbary Macaques. Then on Thursday all will return "home" to Fes, having concluded the comprehensive "southern circuit" of the semester.

November 10, 2010

Taghzoute Homestay Experience

So currently we are in the Todra Gorge, but it's taken us a while to get here. Between Essaouria and here, we stopped in a village near Tinghir and stayed with families. I was expecting something very similar to the other village home stay we had had, which had been wonderful, though a little difficult due to the language barrier. However, upon arriving to the village, I realized that this would be very different. Unlike the previous village, we easily got there by taxi; in addition, I immediately noticed that the houses and buildings looked very modern. The area was flat, and so they were not built into the mountains, but rather arranged like many American towns. The first thing we did was talk and meet some high school English students, which was tons of fun. It was also interesting that they even had a high school there, which the earlier village did not have. All of the students were very nice and we had a great time, but after, Stewart and I went to go with out home stay father, who was the English teacher. We soon learned that he and his wife had recently moved there from Casablanca, and they were seen as outsiders, not only because they were new to the area, but because they were considered Arab and not Berber. This distinction made their transition to life there much more difficult, especially since they did not speak Tamazight, the Berber dialect of the area. While many people spoke Darija, it just set them apart again. When we got to the house, we met Calta, our home stay mother. She and Aziz, the father, had a 18 month old son as well. They were used to having lots to do in a city and had been appointed to work at the school by the government; they were currently applying to change locations. They were both English teachers, and so they spoke English extremely well. This was the first time that I had had a home stay where anyone spoke English, since my family in Fez spoke Darija, except for the children who also spoke french. However, the ability to communicate did not necessarily mean that we did not run into miss communications. There was an issue one morning about when we were leaving, which was easy to sort out, but I had not had similar problems in either of my home stays. There was still a strong uncomfortable feeling of living in a stranger's home, even though I could speak to them easily. Also, both of the parents seemed very busy, which was not the case in either of my other experiences. It was nice to be able to discus things with Aziz and Calta (though I could do much of the same with Senea in Fez) but I would not say that the home stay was any better than the others. I liked being able to observe a family that seemed more different from my own and to be able to learn more about Moroccan culture. I feel that Aziz and Calta had many western elements to their lives, which was fine, but not a learning experience from their way of life. I learned much more though from their experiences in the village as outsiders though, which brought to light some issues that I had only heard in passing previously.

Into the Desert

Yesterday we had our longest Grand Taxi ride yet- all six of us, and a driver, piled into a Mercedes as we drove toward the desert.  Around lunch time, we stopped for a bite, and continued on our way to the end of the road.  As our surroundings turned from arid to completely barren, we made a sharp turn off of the main road, lest we approach the closed Algerian border.  A sign announced that Auberge du Sud, our destination, was 8 km down the road.  It was certainly a bumpy 8 km, considering it was more of a set of tire tracks through gravel that we followed, rather than a paved road.  Our taxi driver took it in stride, and the car managed well enough in spite of the fact that all of the other cars that passed us were better-equipped SUVs.  The closer we were to the sand dunes, the more in awe of them we were.  In the late afternoon sun, rolling hills of orange, rust colored sand rose up before us.  At the base of the impressive dunes, Auberge du Sud stands like a fortress in defiance of its surroundings.  After a pleasant tea time, we checked into our rooms.  The hotel itself is beautiful, and our rooms were no exception.  We even had beds with real mattresses and showers en suite that were hot (most of the time).  Best of all was the beautiful, clear swimming pool on a deck beyond our rooms.  Even after our surprise visit to the pool in Ourzazate, we were still ecstatic to see the promise of poolside relaxing before us.  We all enjoyed a lazy afternoon, followed the sunset from a short hike into the dunes, and then indulged in a rather extravagant feast for dinner.  Today has been similarly relaxing- much lounging around, punctuated by breakfast and lunch, as we wait for our camel trek to begin late this afternoon.

Camel Riding

Our time in the desert was short but it was great fun and much different then our other experiences here. Just the landscape was nothing like I had seen thus far in Morocco: sand dunes that seemed to go for miles and miles, sparse vegetation, what you normally think of when someone says "desert". While there were unsurprisingly few people living there, we did stop for tea and shelter for the high afternoon sun at one family's house. There after a great picnic lunch, Emanne and I climbed a surrounding dune and rolled down it. The children saw us and instead of joining in, ran down and a few minutes arrived back with small squares of plastic with string on the end. We had no idea what they were until the kids slipped their feet through the string and then "sledded" down the sand. It quickly blew away our rolling down the dune technique! However, the most memorable experience of the 3 days was our method of transport...

 

For as long as I can remember I've had this picture of my dad riding a camel in Egypt and thought it was "the coolest thing EVER" so, of course, I was quite excited for our 3 days through the desert on camel. I didn't have any idea what it would be like and the only expectation I had was that riding a camel equals an awesome photo. And, yes, while many great photos were taken (on the camels at sun set, the shadows of our camels, on the camels on sun rise) photos cannot fully give justice to the experience. So that is where this post comes in, to enlighten all of you back home on the finer things of camel riding.

Getting on a camel is surprising and nothing like mounting a horse! The camels are laying down when you hop on to sit on them and then they stand up. It's almost like an amusement park ride with the back and forth as the camel gets up and suddenly you are 7 feet in the air!

We usually rode in two hour increments and while at first I thought it was just so the camels can take a break, it's a much as a break for the riders. While, no doubt about it, riding a camel is fun and I suggest that everyone should go to their local zoo and quickly try it, it can be quite uncomfortable. While Kelsey mastered the side-saddle position, others of us had to endure sore thighs and, to be blunt, chafed skin!

 

And then there is the whole ordeal of getting down from a camel. The camel again lays down but it can be sudden and shaky and if you don't have a grip you could definitely go toppling over the camel's head (though, lhumd'Allah this didn't happen to any of us).


Oh, the Places We've Been!

After being out of internet (and blogging) reach for over a week, we are back within reach, so enjoy the recent blog posts and a few more to come along with photos of our adventures in Southern Morocco!

Since the group left Ouarzazate, we have been on the move every few days taking every (reliable) type of transportation to reach the ends of the Earth - the Sahara/Algerian border. After Ouarzazate, the group ventured eastward to a town called Taghzoute (outside of Tinghir) where we collaborated on a service learning project with local Peace Corps Volunteers. With the assistance of a local dentist and our Peace Corps friends, we led dental hygiene lessons at 2 local elementary schools in different villages. The Global LAB students helped distribute toothbrushes, teach the children how to brush, and helped the young ones determine which foods are good and bad for the health and longevity of their teeth. In addition, we had the opportunity to have a cross-cultural exchange with local high school students and discuss and dispel stereotypes. We also collaborated with these students to create a Peace Mural that we painted together at the school. While we were in Taghzoute, the students lived with homestay families and we also celebrated Halloween with costumes, sweets, and apple bobbing - great fun!

Satisfied with our rewarding experience of service-learning in Taghzoute, we headed to the Todra Gorge for some rest and relaxation. Our hotel was nestled at the foot of the gorge - rock walls towering above us and a beautiful palmary and river below. We spent half a day hiking through the gorge. Along the way, we stopped to have tea with a local family and learned more about the nomadic lifestyle in this area. On our way back, we walked through the palmary and learned about this fertile valley and all the varieties of vegetables that grow there. In the afternoon, the group visited a local artist who showed us the unique art form of painting with saffron and tea. The students also gave this a try!

From the gorge, we squeezed into "the grand taxi ride of our lives" as I like to call it. While we had had some experience squeezing all six of us into a taxi beforehand, this 4 hour ride definitely made us closer as a group and we learned the words of an Amazigh song along the way! We drove through the lush palmary of the Southeast. Dates branches lined the street as the seasonal date pick just finished. We witnessed the landscape become more and more barren until we reach the dunes of Erg Chebbi.

Pleasantly surprised by the new pool at our auberge, we took advantage of our surroundings by basking in the sun by the pool with the sand dunes feet away. The next day we rose early for a sunrise hike - trekking through the mountains of sand by headlamps only to be rewarded by a gorgeous yellow sun breaking over the dunes. That day, we began our 2 day camel trek. We spent our days getting to know our camels a bit better, chatting with each other sometimes, but also enjoying the utter silence of the desert. The night sky revealed more stars than most of us (if not all) have seen in our lives! On the last day of our camel trek, we mounted our camels before daybreak and saw the sunrise from our camel's humps. We continued onto Itzer (about 45 minutes North of Midelt) passing through the Ziz Valley along the way.

The small town of Itzer is situated between the High and Middle Atlas mountains which provided stunning views! After spending the past 3 weeks in the warm sunny South, the winter cold of Itzer took us by surprise, but most of us enjoyed the change of weather. While in Itzer, the students lived with homestay families and we were hosted by a local association. In addition to learning about the local artisan work in this area (mostly carpet weaving, but we also met a talented artist), we had the opportunity to learn how to make couscous from scratch! It look about 4 hours, but it was well worth it! We also had a chance to hammam (go to the public bathes) and try some b'sara (a split-pea like bean soup dish perfect to keep you warm in the winter) before we departed.

As the group left Itzer, we noticed quite a few police officers along the road. We knew that the King Mohammed VI was in Midelt and it turns out he was headed in our direction. So when we arrived in Ifrane, we quickly hurried to get our spot to see the King drive through town. The Moroccan time estimates for his arrival were just a few hours off, but we waved our flags when he drove by and all got a glimpse of royalty - well worth the wait! Last night, we dined with some bright and active students from Al-Alkhawayn University (AUI). AUI is an elite university that was created in partnership between the former Saudi Arabian King and the late King Hassan II. At AUI, all classes are taught in Enlgish and the education system is modeled off of that of the States. During our dinner, we learned about their experience as students, they inquired about our lives in the US, and we shared a lot of laughs. This morning, we participated in two lectures given by AUI professors - one on the pressing conflict in the Western Sahara and the other on Rai music. In the afternoon, we had a tour of the beautiful Al-Alkhawayn University campus.

Tomorrow the group will spend the morning in Azrou exploring the cedar forests in hopes of spotting some endangered Barbary macaque. We will also discuss some pertinent ecological issues. Afterwards, we will head home to Fes. All the students are looking forward to rejoining their homestay families. While we have loved our journeys in the South, we have missed Fes and eagerly await our return.

November 11, 2010

Reflections on coming "home"

Here is a recent (as in an hour ago!) entry from my journal:
 
 Almost 3  Nov 11, 2010 
     
         Sitting in this restaurant that we came to our very first day in Fes,a thousand thoughts are buzzing in my head.  But there is also this immense feeling of bliss and contentment.  I don't feel awkward being here, nor do I feel out of place.  Walking the narrow streets here with their dark alleyways and occasional residents neither intimadates or confines me.  The hanging raw meat, live poultry, and numerous cats does not make me stare with disgust or shock.  My interactions with the people here (my waiter, the hanout man, even the faux tour guides) are fluid and fun now- there's no "deer in the headlights" when someone says something to me.  And, even better, they are all in darija! I hadn't realized how comfortable I felt here in Fez, in Morocco, until now.  Nor did it occur to me how much I've changed (even if the changes are small things).
         The call to prayer just began.  Remember when this was the most foreign sound?  When it was so startling?  Unlike before, I'm not startled out of my thoughts because of the call.  Rather, I'm startled because of how normal it sounds.  And no longer is this a sound of foreign thought and religion, foreign customs or people.  No, no, no- not any more!  Now it reminds me of how much more I understand Islam and how many of my new friends "answer" to this call.  What a change!
         While our time in the south was interesting and exciting, I'm so happy to be back in Fes.  Not only have I been able to realize how much my actions (or rather my reactions) and thoughts have changed but it's nice to be surrounded by comforting sights, in a place I know well and in a place that, ever so slowly, is becoming like another home.

November 13, 2010

Images from the South

Here are some more photos of our adventures in Southern Morocco:

Shaking the Tanjia Marrakesh.jpg

William shaking the local speciality, tanjia, in Marrakesh

Finished product tanjia.jpgFinished Product! Mmmm...tanjia

Favorite food stall in Marrakesh_ Chez Rachida.jpg

Our favorite Marrakeshi food stall, Chez Rachida

Kelsey Skala de Ville.jpg

Kelsey gets windblown in the Skala de Ville in Essaouira

Emanne Skala de ville.jpg

Check out that hair!

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Trick or Treat in Taghzoute!

Homestay Taghzoute.jpgAmazigh Homestay Family in Taghzoute

peace mural planning Taghzoute.jpg

Peace Mural Planning

Emanne mixing paint for mural Taghzoute.jpgEmanne makes Moroccan green 

William mural painting Taghzoute.jpgWilliam and some local high school students paint the Peace Mural

Gabriella mural painting.jpgGabriella paints the American flag

Todra Gorge.jpg

Todra Gorge!

Emanne nomadic weaving.jpgEmanne learns the nomadic weaving style

Gabriella nomadic weaving.jpgGabriella adds the finishing touches to the carpet

Heating up the Saffron.jpg

A local painter shows up how to paint with saffron & tea 

Warming the saffron painting.jpg

William warms the painted saffron

Group sand dunes.jpg

Sunset in the dunes.jpg

Sunset in the dunes of Erg Chebbi

Emanne sand angel.jpgEmanne makes a sand angel

Making Couscous.jpgMaking couscous from scratch

Couscous Time!.jpgCouscous time!

 

Getting cold in Ifrane.jpgCooling off in Ifrane

dinner with AUI students.jpg

Dinner with AUI students

King Sighting in Ifrane.jpg

King sighting in Ifrane!

Camel Time!

 Stewart experiences her first camel mount.jpg

Stewart experiences her first camel mount

Ready to go riding.jpg

Ready to go riding

Beginning the camel trek.jpg

Beginning the Camel Trek

Into the Dunes.jpg

Into the Dunes

Sunrise in the Desert 2.jpg

Sunrise

Taking Flight Part 1.jpg

Taking Flight Part I

Taking Flight Part 2.jpg

Taking Flight Part II

What could be better.jpg

What could be better?!

Lovin it.jpg

Lovin' it!

Oasis.jpg

Oasis

Shadows in the Sand.jpgShadows in the Sand

November 14, 2010

Waiting for the Eid

Now settled back in their homestays, the students feel like they have returned home. The streets of Fes are lined with sheep for the uncoming holiday, Eid, commemerating Abraham's sacrafice. All the students have added extra members to their families in the past days - a sheep or two in addition to all of the family members coming in from other cities to celebrate the feast to come! The sacrafice and feast will take place on Wednesday and most likely continue well into Thursday. The students have remarked numerous times that this holiday reminds them of both Thanksgiving (the feast) and Christmas (equating the sheep-buying to Christmas tree shopping). Families are very excited and proud of their new purchases. I was invited into all of the houses to check out their sheep - some are inside the courtyard and others are on the terrace - temporary pets.

In addition to preparing for the Eid, the students has been busy resuming their normal Fes schedule. They have restarted their darija (Moroccan Arabic) classes and Independent Study Projects. We have also had an engaging lecture on Migration in which we learned about the prevalence and importance of migration in Morocco and explored its role in relation to the development of the country. On Sunday, the female students tried their hands at henna. We had a professional hennaya teach us about the various uses of henna as well as learning how to mix it and make designs - a bit more difficult than she makes it look - but I was impressed at how well the students were able to transfer their skills from paper to hand in a couple of hours!

After the Eid, the students will have a lesson in wood carving and painting from a local artisan in Fes. This weekend will be an important and exciting event for all - the marriage of our in-country coordinator, Fatima! We look forward to dancing, feasting, and celebrating this two day event with our Moroccan friend!

Migration Lecture with Moha.jpg Migration Lecture with Moha Ennaji

Gnawa Fushion Concert at Cafe Clock.jpg

Gnawa Fusion Concert

Kesley dancing at gnawa fushion concert.jpg

Kesley busts-a-move

Sheep!.jpg

Sheep for the Eid!

dessert at cafe clock.jpgChocoloate cake and tarts, oh my!

Eid is Fast Approaching

 

For this second phase of living in Fes I'm doing an independent study project on Moroccan cuisine.  I had my first lesson today with our in-country coordinator, Fatima, and we baked peanut butter cookies covered in sesame seeds and filled with strawberry jam.  We made the peanut butter from scratch which was really cool because I've never seen or done that before.  It was sort of hard to form the cookies because after we formed the peanut butter dough into a ball we had to make an indent in it, like a bowl, to put the jam into, but this was hard to do without it breaking apart a little.  Overall my first baking experience was very fun and delicious!

Eid el-Kabir is this week, which means there are sheep everywhere.  Eid is celebrated by sacrificing a sheep, like Adam did in the Qur'an, so everyone is buying sheep and bringing them to their house for the holiday.  Most families only get one sheep, but my family (slash Gabby's family because we're related) got three sheep and a goat.  All the extended family is coming over so there needs to be a lot of meat.

A lot of extended family moved in in the span of less than five hours; when I got back from cooking the house(s) were filled with people.  Everyone was catching up and talking about the holiday and it was fun (albeit a tad overwhelming) to meet everyone, or see the family I had met before.  The whole time everyone, kids and adults, kept saying, "Where's Romeo?  Romeo!" and looking around for him.  Romeo is the family cat; it's not common to have cats as pets in Morocco so I'd imagine that all the family gets a kick out of him and they look forward to seeing him whenever they go to Mohammed and Aziza's.

The animals arrived yesterday night, and it was so exciting.  First one of the cousins, Eunice, came into the house carrying the goat across his shoulders and everyone went crazy, he was like Santa Claus.  All the kids ran towards him and the goat and were screaming with excitement.  It was a little unsettling knowing that the cute little goat all these kids were petting and riding was going to be slaughtered in a few days, but really this is just like Thanksgiving with everyone eating (though not killing in their home) turkeys.  Eunice carried the goat up to the roof where it's staying until Eid starts and then we waited for the sheep to come.

The sheep didn't arrive until after midnight and when they did get there it took a long time for us to get them settled.  The sheep are too big for the men to put on their shoulders so they had to half carry-half push the three sheep up all four flights of stairs to the roof.  All the little kids, who of course were still up at one in the morning after waiting for the sheep to arrive, were so happy and they were running around, petting the sheep, feeding the sheep, and trying to get Romeo to come out of hiding so he also could join in on the sheep festivities.  It was similar to American kids going through the process of getting a Christmas tree and decorating it--so much excitement, holiday spirit, and family bonding.  It was so fun to join in on the celebrations and it isn't even Eid yet so there's even more to come!

November 16, 2010

Henna Workshop

 

Orange Blossom water blessing before we begin.jpg

Stewart gets a little orange blossom water blessing before we begin

Gabby identifies this spice and its use in henna.jpg

Gabby identifies a spice used in the henna process - black pepper (used after henna application)

Layla & Fatima henna workshop.jpg

Fatima translate the expertise of our local hennaya, Layla

Mixing the henna.jpg 

Mixing the henna -> henna power + orange blossom water

Straining the henna.jpg

Straining the henna to make it smooth for application

Stewart drawing designs.jpg

Stewart draws some practice henna designs on paper

Gabby henna drawing.jpg

Henna to paper

Emanne practices her henna on Jess.jpgEmanne tries some real hand application

guineapig.jpg

Guinea Pig!

Kelsey getting henna done.jpg

Kelsey gets some professional henna

Henna!.jpg

The Joy of Henna!

 

November 18, 2010

Woodcarving & Painting Workshop


Emanne woodcarving.jpgwoodpainting fun.jpg

Wood painting malem.jpg

Learning from the pro.jpg

Woodpainting.jpg

 

Look what I made!.jpg 

November 20, 2010

Sharing Our Moroccan Experience with Our Home Communities

Our very own Kelsey Ott has written several articles for her hometown newspaper, the Darien News, sharing her experiences in Morocco with her community at home. Here are the links to her articles:

Missives from Morocco:

http://www.dariennewsonline.com/default/article/Missives-from-Morocco-Kelsey-Ott-691756.php

http://www.dariennewsonline.com/default/article/Musings-from-Morocco-798341.php

http://www.dariennewsonline.com/default/article/Missives-from-Morocco-Kelsey-Ott-820624.php

Enjoy!
 

Wedding Belles (or Rather Women's Orartory Calls)

This weekend, the group is celebrating the wedding of our in-country coordinator, Fatima! Last night, the ladies attended the first night of the wedding in which the bride gets intricate henna done on her hands and feet while the guest snack on delicious sweets, milk, and tea and dance around her (entertaining her) for hours! Tonight the whole group will attend the second ceremony where the groom will present gifts to the bride and they will sign the official marriage certificate. We will be up all night dancing and celebrating!

On Sunday, we will catch up on some sleep as well as meet with a group of university students to discuss higher education and employment in Morocco and the States.

November 21, 2010

Moroccan Wedding!!!

 In addition to these pictures, check out the video!

 Wedding enjoyment.jpg 

Henna evening enjoyment

Meeting Family Members.jpg

Kelsey and Gabby meet some guests (young and old)

Procession of the Gifts.jpg

The procession of the groom's gifts

Arrival of the groom.jpg

Arrival of the groom

Dancing the night away.jpgDancing the night away

William dancing.jpgWilliam dancing with the crowd

White outfit.jpg

The new couple! 

Bride in Green.jpg

Oh, the outfits! The bride in green

Foot of dress.jpg

At the foot of her dress...blessing the bride

Gabby oratory call.jpg

Bride and groom Feeding each other dates.jpg

The bride and groom feeding each other dates

Bride purple.jpg

The bride in purple
Newlywed Fatima with students.jpg

The students with the new bride, Fatima!

November 22, 2010

Post Eid Festivities

Eid, which was last Wednesday, was quite quiet compared to what I thought it was going to be like. We had people come over, but they only stayed for about ten minutes, just enough time to get tea and then leave. I thought that we'd have lots and lots of people over all day, but this was not the case at all. However, this all changed the day after. First, we had a cousin and two uncles come over. I thought the cousin was around 14, but she turned out to also be 18. She was very close with my home stay siblings, and I definitely felt out of places when they would all joke around and I'd have no idea what was happening. Especially, when later, I found out that she also spoke french, but I guess was choosing not to interact with me. She ended up staying the night, but left by the next afternoon. However, that day, I came home to find the living room filled with people. I went to my room to put my stuff down, and a little girl followed me. We had gotten little toy animals in chocolate eggs on Halloween, so we played with those and made houses for them out of my darija note cards. Then a boy came in and started speaking english to me. He was a cousin and I was then with his little sister, and their family was visiting from Oujda. I learned that he'd learned english from his older brothers, who were also there, along with his father and another uncle, and from wathing american movies. Anyway,  the house was quiet hectic, and I missed the nice quiet evenings we'd had before. I still haven't figured out how everyone's related, but I've basically given up on that. It's as though everyday, a few new people pop up, which has been a really interesting experience.

November 24, 2010

Happy Thanksgiving - Moroccan style!

Since we will be on the road to the capital, Rabat, tomorrow, we celebrated Thanksgiving a day early. Enjoy these photos from our Moroccan/American feast of bibi (turkey) tajine, mashed potatoes, zalouk (an eggplant and tomato dish), squash, Moroccan salad, and pumpkie pie! We are all still very satisfied!

Cooking away.jpg

Cooking away

Mashed potatoes.jpgMashed potatoes!

The colors of our meal.jpg

What a colorful meal!

All hands on deck.jpg

All hands on deck

Kesley helps make the zaluk.jpg

Kelsey helps make the zalouk - a Moroccan touch to our American meal

Thanksgiving!.jpg

Giving thanks for each other, our families, and the opportunity to be in Morocco!

Pumpkin pie.jpg

The finishing touch - Pumpkin Pie!

November 25, 2010

Safe Arrival in the capital, Rabat

I received a message that the group has arrived in Rabat where they will spend the next two nights exploring the capital's ancient and cosmopolitan sites and attending discussions/lectures. Happy Thanksgiving greetings from North Africa! 

November 27, 2010

Revised final circuit Itinerary

The group will stay one more night (tonight) in Rabat before traveling north for their final Moroccan circuit, then they'll cross the Strait of Gibraltar and dock in Spain for the program's conclusion. Here is the latest itinerary:

Nov 28-30: Chefchaouen

Dec 1-3: Tetouan (student-led...with Captain Kempie present, of course)

Dec 4-5: Tangier

Dec 6-7: Cordoba

Dec 8-10: Granada

Dec 11: the Fes Four return to the US...Morocco fall '10 semester concludes!

November 28, 2010

Arrival in Chefchaouen (aka Chaouen, Xaouen)

The students have made it to the scenic Rif Mountain village of Chefchaouen where they will settle and "hang their djellabas" for the next 3 days. Home to an enchanting, blue-on-white medina and with excellent day-hiking opportunities abundant, the group will have plenty to explore before embarking on their student-led excursion to Tetouan. More from Kempie et al later. 

Cozy in the Rif Mountains

After a long day of traveling, the group arrived to the welcoming pale blue city of Chefchaouen this afternoon. This quaint city nestled in the Rif mountains has already enchanted us all! Tomorrow the group will take an excursion into the mountains around us to visit a bee-keeping and honey-producing cooperative. We will also learn how to make a hearty winter soup, b'sara, often eaten for breakfast in Morocco, and we may get the opportunity to also visit a goat-cheese cooperative.

 

For the past few days, we enjoyed being in Morocco's capital, Rabat. In addition to getting the opportunity to eat some of Morocco's' finest ethnic food - Lebanese and Asian - we had the opportunity to attend some enlightening lectures. Upon arrival in Rabat, we were fortunate to have the opportunity to discuss the Truth and Reconciliation Commission with an American Fulbrighter in the peaceful setting of the Kasbah des Oudaias. The Commission was established to bring the injustices of the reign of Hassan II to light and compensate the victims. The Fulbrighter shared stories of former political prisoners she has met and the institutions that have been put in place to help support those dealing with the trauma of past injustices. She was also able to shed light on how Morocco's Truth and Reconciliation Commission compares with others around the world. We also had the opportunity to participate in lectures on Women's Rights, Islam, and the Family Code (Mudawana) Reforms. and well as Moroccan Politics and Democracy from the distinguished faculty at the Center for Cross-cultural Learning. These lectures further help contextualize our experiences in and knowledge of Morocco.

 

In addition to the enriching lectures, the group visited the historic sites of Rabat since Roman times. While Rabat has been the capital of Morocco since 1912, the city has been inhabited by different groups of people since Roman times. Strategically situated on the coast, Rabat served as a settlement for the Romans, Phoenicians, and Portuguese among others. We strolled through the Roman ruins of the Chellah watching the storks perched on top of ancient buildings. We also visited the Hassan Tower, an unfinished minaret, that at the time of building would have been the second largest in the world! Paying homage to Morocco's former kings, we visited the beautiful mausoleum that houses both King Mohammed V and Hassan II.


I'm Thankful For...

It's been a great surprise when I've had the opportunity to not only share but show my culture and my traditions with Moroccans, which again happened yesterday when we celebrated our own Moroccan Thanksgiving! The day started off early when we all meet to do our shopping at a food souk close to Bab Riciff, where most of us live. The souks are timeless and upon entering one experiences such a transportation from the modern world only outside the wall.

There the meat is just slammed on the white tiled counter with nothing between, the vegetables are piled high and are sold by weighing them by a scale that looks like its been in used for 50 years at least, the chickens are live and squawking in their cages, and there are cats all about trying to scavenge their meals from the butcher.

After using a mixture of darija and french and english trying to figure out and buying everything we needed we headed back (with our fresh turkey breast and kilos of vegetables just in plastic mekas) to Haja's house (Stewart's homestay mother) to cook our feast. Emanne and I made, if I may say so myself, wonderful mashed potatoes while Kelsey, Kempie and William spent much time peeling vegetables for the tagine and working on our shalada. Even Fatima joined the fun by mashing and mixing a few potatoes! Haja used her fantastic cooking skills to teach us how to make a turkey (which is bibi in darija by the way!) tagine. After a few hours working away in the kitchen, the table was set and all the food (that looked so lovely) was brought out.

After photos of our beautiful meal we all settled around the table and shared with Fatima the tradition of saying what you're thankful for on Thanksgiving. All of us, in our own words, expressed how we were thankful for the opportunities we've had in the past two and a half months, and how we were able to share all these experiences with each other.

 

Completely full, humd'allah, after countless helpings the group headed out to the souks to buy gifts during our last day in Fes, our very own Black Friday shopping spree!


Images from Rabat

 

the view from the Kasbah des Oudaias.jpg

The students take in the view of the ocean from the Kasbah

Catherine Truth.jpgDiscussion with Fulbright researcher, Catherine, on the Truth & Reconcilliation Commission at the Kasbah des Oudaias

Flowers in garden at Kasbah.jpgAdmiring the beauty of the Kasbah gardens

Group Hassan Tower.jpg

The group in front of the Hassan Tower

Group Maseleoum.jpg

With the Royal Guards...in front of the Mausoleum

Emanne Kelsey Chellah.jpg

Emanne and Kelsey at the Chellah - check out the storks at the top of the minaret

Kelsey completes Roman statue.jpg

Kelsey completes the Roman statue at the Chellah

Gabby view from CCCL.jpg

The view of Rabat from the Center for Cross-Cultural Learning's Terrace

Lecture Moroccan Politics.jpgLecture on Moroccan Politics and Democracy with Abdhelhay Moudden

kelsey haik.jpg

Kelsey models the traditional dress for Moroccan women, the haik

Emanne traditional dress.jpg

Our lecturer, Farah Cherif d'Ouezzan, demonstrates the evolution of Moroccan dress on Emanne

Using Chopsticks in Morocco.jpgChopsticks in Morocco! The group enjoys a meal at an Asian restaurant in Rabat

November 30, 2010

Single Mothers in Morocco Abandoned Thousands of Babies Each Year

Thousands of babies are abandoned in Morocco every year because their single mothers are too afraid to face family and friends. Instead of just taking in abandoned children, one nonprofit has begun working with families to help single mothers find ways to keep their babies.

Read the full article in: Voice of America News

Heading North

Despite the heavy rain we have experienced for the past few days in Chefchaouen, we have enjoyed our time in this oh-so-blue city! Tomorrow, the student-led portion of the trip begins. For the next 3 days, the students are the leaders of the program. They have chosen our location, Tetouan, and will arrange all the logisitcs (including activities, lodging, meals, etc.) for the next few days. More from the student leaders about what we're up to in a couple of days...

December 1, 2010

In Tetouan

The students have safely made it to the northern Moroccan city of Tetouan where they will orchestrate their excursion for the next 3 days. They are blazing new geographic ground in Morocco, so we look forward to their impressions and images of this unique, Spanish- and Berber-influenced city whose medina is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site...more from the Fes Four soon.

December 2, 2010

We Got Sole (Student-Led Portion Collaborative Post)


Our first day in Tetouan has been an eye opener, which, incidentally, is what the name means in Rifian Amazigh dialect. After passing through green mountains and lush fields, we arrived from Chefchaouen, and found our cozy abode, where we will be living for the next three days. After unloading our growing amount of baggage, we stumbled upon, with the help of a nice old man, a tasty meal. We entered the median and walked in the direction that our hearts desired (to the right, which was more interesting looking, lots of stuff). We believe that we passed through the flea market souks, due to the vast amount of retro fashions and other miscellaneous objects, including some Christmas memorabilia (happy holiday season!). Eventually, we found the palace and stopped for tea. There we ducked out of the rain and observed the elegant and pristine colonial architecture, instigated by the Spanish. While they were here, the Spanish deemed Tetouan worthy of the title "capital" (pronounced like a Spaniard would: caapeetaal). We had further lessons in Spanish when we walked into the Spanish Cultural Center, where we observed people reading in Spanish (of course at the biblioteca) and learned of cultural happenings in Andalucia. To further escape the downpour, we fled (just as the Jewish and Muslim populations did out of ancient Andalucia in the fifteenth century, who found sanctuary in Tetouan [who ever expects the Spanish Inquisition?]) to the other side of the medina via cab, where it was not raining. Again, we found ourselves in another Moroccan museum, which, like the others, dabbled in different aspects of Moroccan life. This museum was especially interesting because of a beautiful terrace, with an excellent view, and an array of examples of Tetouani embroidery, for which the city is celebrated. We even saw the traditional dress of the "Chaddah," which is a Tetouani celebration on the 28th day of Ramadan, where seven year old girls dress up and are decorated with henna. We walked back to the hotel first through the Mellah, or old Jewish neighborhood. It had colorful walls and low hanging ally ways; however, unlike previous other Mellahs we have seen, it did not have the traditional wooden balconies, or at least we did not catch sight of any. After a short break at the hotel, we had a lovely dinner. At a typical Moroccan joint. Where we discovered that some of us got sole. Yum. Tomorrow, we hope to visit the Artisan School, and later, enchallah, the beach and near by ancient Amazigher ruins. There may soon be a picnic lunch or a fish market visit, we'll keep you updated. Tata for now...love Captain Kempie and the Fez Four (we love and miss you, Stewart!). 

Ravines Deep and Near


     I wrote a shell of this poem the night before arriving in Marrakesh, and have been intermittently refining it ever since.

 

Ravines Deep and Near

 

who should have been a pillar of salt

never before have prison bars looked so welcoming

     learn and laugh on the hill

and may I be a portion for the lowest creatures of the earth before any part of my past leaves me

and so I should have been a pillar of salt.

 

She dared look back on the fires of the cities of the plain

look back on the screams

look back on the sinful drowning in their own tears

look back on what was home before corruption

and so she became a pillar of salt.

 

Can you hear the song?

Can you hear the plaintive voice mourning ships departing the familiar coast?

Can you hear the deep bass chords of the piano?

I can.

Just like the crows circling over a decaying cadaver

Just like clouds forming over the damned

Relinquish the rains, flood over-

 

What is the value of the simple comfort of a firm armchair before the luxury of a stoked fireplace?

Or even more the same chair with an open door to the scent of April rains?

Can you denominate the familiar?

Welcome to the inland shores of Moulay Idriss Zerhoun

Look down on a city that stood even after Alaric burned Rome

The language of conquerors may still have been heard until a new wave came years later

and columns still stand even after the tyrant razed what remained for his walls.

Continue reading "Ravines Deep and Near" »

Scenes from Tetouan

 Tetouan7.jpg

 

Tetouan2.jpg

 

Tetouan3.jpg

 

Tetouan4.jpg

 

Tetouan5.jpg

Continue reading "Scenes from Tetouan" »

December 4, 2010

At the last Morocco stop: Tangier

Alas, we've received confirmation that Captain Kempie and the Fes Four have made their way to the Moroccan terminus of the program, Tangier, before they will cross into Europe on Monday. After a full first day of activities, they were off to the famous Cafe Hafa for mint tea, sunset, and a view of the Spanish mainland over the Strait of Gibraltar depending on cloud cover, en shallah. Read about Tangier's makeover in the Sydney Morning Herald's article, "Mint Tea and Desert Haze".

We Can See Clearly Now, the Rain is Gone, but It May be Back Tomorrow

After a delicious breakfast of malawi and cookies, we walked through the medina to the Tetouan Artisan School. The Artisan School educates high school-aged kids from difficult situations in traditional crafts and techniques, such as wood carving, embroidery (the only female trade at the school), brass work, plaster carving, and more. The school also reduces the time of apprenticeship from seven years to four, and instructs the kids in math and language as well as other typical subjects. While tiptoeing through the cemetery, we had a grand panorama of the Mediterranean Sea, the city of Tetouan, and the Rif mountains. Adding a few spots of color to a rather dismal place were the fauxlij (fake zellij tilework) which decorated couch and bathtub-esque gravestones, each with a garden. For lunch we went to our favorite restaurant, and this time they had harira. In the afternoon we met up with Romeo, a recently arrived Fulbrighter and Ph.D. candidate in ethnomusicology. He brought along his homestay brother Yassin and explained to us what he is planning to study. The discussion took many turns, touching on various aspects of music in Morocco, particularly his topic, taktim jebeli ("music of the mountain"). Afterward, we went to dinner next to our favorite restaurant, at a place that served falafel and Syrian specialty pizza. We finished our lovely day with desert at a patisserie, one of many which far outnumber actual restaurants here in Tetouan. After a quick bite of breakfast, we declined to go to a nearby beach due to inclement weather, and, after a free morning, walked into the medina to eat lunch at a palace. This meal, our last couscous Friday, was bittersweet, but delicious. :( We were unable to shuffle off to our usual post-couscous hibernation, and instead went to a hammam, our nicest yet. We were offered facemask mud from the family next to us. Friends! Post-hammam, we shared a bite of falafel (This was not our decision, but fate brought us to the hotspot of Tetouan.) with Fulbrigher Matt Strieb, who discussed his research on political activists in Morocco. He focused on seven separate groups: feminism in Tetouan, free speech in Casablanca, Marxism in Khenitra, gay rights in Rabat, the Amazigh movement in Agadir, hip-hop in Fes, and Islamism in Sale. Someday we will all be able to read his book. It was nice to have this culminatory talk bringing together many discussions we had throughout the trip. He also brought his friend Bree, an American currently teaching English here in Tetouan, who afterward invited us to guest star in her class at the American Language Center. We had a final meal at our favorite restaurant, and turned in for the night. Tomorrow morning we head to Tangier.

Fes Four


Moroccan Recipes

Bisara

 

Put the ebowen (dried and skinless) in almost boiling water

Throw a handful of salt into the water (maybe two if you're Kempie) and stir

Boil for five minutes

Spoon out froth continuously, and save it for a tasty snack later

After ten minutes of boiling pressure cook for ten to fifteen minutes on high heat

Stir

Let cool with open top

Put through the smasher

It wont taste good at this point, don't worry, it may get better

Pour mush back into pot

Throw one tablespoon of salt into the pot

Add a half a tablespoon of cumin (making it Moroccan food)

Place back on medium high heat and boil

Smush ten cloves of garlic with the bottom of a glass

It still wont be green

Bring to a boil, and let it boil for a bit

Take off heat and cover

Fifteen minutes later, cook on low heat uncovered

After three minutes, put on higher heat

Keep heating and add a wee bit of water

FIN!

 

Bread (xobz)

 

Make a dough of salt, flour, hot water, and yeast

Let it rise

Form it into balls of desired size (we used the size of a softball, that seemed to work really well)

Make sure there is flour (or its equivalent) to keep everything from sticking

Let it rest for 5 mins

After, smash it into bigger, flat circles with the palm of your hand (again make sure there is enough flour to avoid sticking!)

Put cloth over bread

After a half hour, poke hole in bread with your thumb and put bread (without cloth to avoid fires) in oven

After 5 mins bring down the temperature

Now flip the bread upside down and let it sit for another 5 mins in the cooler section of the oven

The xobz should be golden brown and delicious

Complied by the Fes Four

Approaching Our Last Day in Morocco

We arrived in Tangier this morning after a wonderful 3 days in Tetuoan! The students led me around for the past few days and did a great job - they're definitely travel and cultural savvy leaders now!

We had a full day today visiting the St. Andrew's Church, an Anglican Church built by the British with Moorish architectural influence - including the Lord's Prayer written in Arabic and the mosque-like layout with a miherab, a nook typically reserved for the Qur'an facing the East towards Mecca. After our visit to the church, we visited the facade of the Grand Teatro Cervantes exploring the rich multicultural heritage of Tangier. We ate lunch at Darna, an organization supporting women and youth in difficult situations through a variety of projects. After a delicious 3 course meal, we headed to the Darna Farm, one of its six centers, to learn more about their horticultural projects with youth. It was amazing! 

To further contextualize our understanding of the rich cultural influences of this city, we visited the impressive Dar El Makhzen, a museum chronicling Tangier's history since pre-Roman times. Strategically located, Tangier has been a major hub and center of commerce throughout history. It also boasts one of the world's greatest explorers, Ibn Battouta.

We finished our afternoon with some tea at the famous Cafe Hafa, where beat poets and writers such as Jack Kerouac and William Burroughs in addition to Truman Capote and Tennessee Williams spent days seeking inspiration. We also were fortunate to get a clear view of Spain - a mere 17km from us.

Tomorrow will be our last day in Morocco! We can't believe it has come so soon! Everyone is looking forward to Spain, but we will miss Morocco dearly! On our last day, we plan to visit the American Legation and take a trip to the Cave of Hercules and Cap Spartel, where the Atlantic meets the Mediterranean.

December 6, 2010

From Africa to Europe...Tangier to Cordoba

Captain Kempie and The Fes Four have arrived in the Andalusian city of Cordoba after a full day of travel including the crossing of the Strait of Gibraltar this morning. They've already enjoyed their first delicious meal of Spanish tapas and will tour the Cathedral and Great Mosque (Mezquita), yet another World Heritage Site, tomorrow. More from the group in the next day or two.

December 7, 2010

Vamos a España!

Yesterday was our last day in Morocco, which was weird because it hasn't hit me yet that we're gone. I spent my last dirhams, ate my last tagine, and packed my bag.

These past two days have been spent in Tangier, a city on the very northern tip of Morocco where the Mediterranean meets the ocean. Before independence it was an international zone, and there are remnants of the French, the Spanish, and the Americans. But for me, the highlight was its Moroccan atmosphere. I was glad to have some more time walking around the souqs, which I will definitely miss when I leave. We also visited a farm association on the outskirts of the city that had the cutest gardens and a pond with ducks, which inspired me to start a garden! Even though I already have a garden.

 Looking out across the water I could see Spain. It's like how I can see Long Island from my house except for it's a whole different continent with a whole different lifestyle. There's an immigration problem with Moroccans trying to cross illegally in small boats or even swimming--it's 17 kilometers. Today we took the ferry across the Strait of Gibraltar.

 

Now we're in Spain and everything is so different from Morocco; there's much more a modern feel. We walked around in the rain our first night and soaked in the new culture, and today we toured the sights of Córdoba. We saw the Mesquita, which was a mosque in the Muslim days of Andalucía but was turned into a cathedral, a synagogue (we're staying in the Jewish quarter), and two museums, one of which was a "living museum" meaning we walked around to different displays and dioramas wearing headsets that played music and explained things to us. A very wonderful part of Spain is the food--so delicious after almost three months of the same dishes. I had my first salad tonight after so long of not being able to eat lettuce!

Select Photos from Tangier

Group Grand Socco.jpg

Darna Farm.jpg

William_Darna Farm.jpg

Look to Spain.jpg

Cap Spartel.jpg

Cap Spartel Group.jpg

Hercules.jpg

Hafa.jpg

Cordoba Scenes

Spanish Breakfast.jpg

Mezquita.jpg

Mezquita2.jpg

Mezquita3.jpg

Mezquita_group.jpg

Gabby_Emanne_Pool.jpg

Synagogue.jpg


Averroes.jpg

December 8, 2010

Final Stop: Granada

A quick note to relay that the group has safely reached its final point of the fall '10 semester: Granada. Tours of the romantic Albayzin and sublime Alhambra along with attending a live Flamenco performance will comprise some of the program's last few days. A very good way to end three unforgettable months in North Africa and Europe's southwestern edge.

December 10, 2010

Fires Unleashed

 

Fires Unleashed

     To help set the scene, let me first opine on travel writing. I really don't like it, at least the few forays I've had into those books. The little of it I've read seems to be the poorly sketched musings of self-hating authors who inflate their own bitter deficiency of self-importance and insist on their own permanent alienation in cultures they want nothing more from than acceptance, and in that quest fret of losing their own individuality. I'm sure there is some very good travel writing out there. Someone please direct me to it. Fiction is more palatable, largely in that it can avoid that insidious pretense to authenticity. In fiction, I don't have to endure the scrutiny of those questioning my verisimilitude or personal conscience: it's fiction, after all.

     In Marrakesh, my "mini-ISP" was storytelling, which I at first assumed would be simple; Marrakesh is, after all, famed for its storytellers. I never met one. In the end, I had to resort to my own experiences and research. This is a modified transcription of the halqa I held in a tent in the desert near Merzouga.


Continue reading "Fires Unleashed" »

Circular Thoughts on Niqab and Advertisement


 

Circular Thoughts on Niqab and Advertisement


     We heard from multiple sources that the niqab, also known in some countries as the burqa, that all-concealing style of dress associated with Somalia, Saudi Arabia, and Afghanistan, was a relatively recent introduction to Morocco, only within the last fifteen years or so. The reasons for this are debatable. That time period has seen a religious awakening, but such dress had never been popular in Morocco (and still isn't). Certainly, women dressed modestly, wearing Berber headdresses or less stringent veils, and then the rise of the hijab in the late 70s, but something this complete was unheard of. We also heard that it had been popular in Marrakesh among a certain class of woman for much longer. Niqab makes it difficult to make clear a woman's identity, and so the prostitutes of Jama'a el Fna used it to dissociate their humanity from any neighbors who might see them in the square, and thus hide the shame of their "profession." Modesty conceptually necessitates the notion of exposure. The fig leaf requires the thought that there is no fig leaf. In this are aura and epistemology inextricably linked. Part of my thoughts here concern the irony of the prostitutes' cloth of choice, but they must also extend to their venue. Jama'a el Fna is ancient, and has been a place of bizarre uniqueness for its entire existence. Now, though, with tourists coming from abroad, and mechanization of everything related to the square's business, it is economically (at least in the traditional sense of the pre-tourist/pre-service economy) obsolete, and socially losing its importance to "real" Marrakshi culture, which can certainly also be said to rely on it. Of course Morocco has modern dentistry and those gaudy false teeth are no longer needed; of course much of what is sold is foreign-made, but the changes run deeper. To quote one of our lecturers, it "deteriorated from a culture of minds to a culture of stomachs." The square was once rife with bookstores, but now it is all food and touristy junk. Yet still with this entropy that contradictorily accompanies progress, Jama'a el Fna is raised up as the exotic jewel of not just Marrakesh, but now broadcast abroad.

     A huge part of the problem, if we can even say there is a problem, is that thin and elusive line between kitsch and authenticity. At what point is preserving Jama'a el Fna in a way accessible to tourists only destroying whatever cultural value it once had? How can one merge the art of conservation with the science of marketing?

     This unrepresentative promotion extends beyond just Jama'a el Fna. Erg Chebbi is about as representative of Morocco as handing a foreigner a brochure on Hawaii and saying "This is America." Yet why do so many Americans immediately associate Morocco with desert and dunes, if any association comes to mind at all? Certainly, deserts comprise much of the Arab world, but Morocco is closer geographically to London than to Mecca. Fortunately or unfortunately, due to the divide of the Atlantic Ocean, we are not as inundated as Europeans with Moroccan tourism ads showing a land of sand and camels, but that image still manages to reach Americans.

     It is often said about Moroccan houses that they are symbolic of nearly everything in the culture: the jewel hides within. Unmemorable exteriors belie whatever sumptuous environs linger within. While I am not at all suggesting one look for a prostitute's "inner treasure," I must implore people to (and extend this example to everything, not just tourism ads) dig beneath the facade of selected imagery and find out both what is not being shown, and why what is being shown was chosen. Your answers will give you infinitely more than just accepting the pretty picture on the postcard.

Mass in Morocco

Mass in Morocco

     Now more familiar with the city, and with a more relaxed schedule than the first interval in Fes, I found time the two Sunday mornings of Fes Phase II to attend Mass at Église Saint François d'Assise, the Catholic church in the Ville Nouvelle. From a combination of my own presuppositions and offhand remarks from people with whom I had spoken, I had a very set image in my mind of how the church would look. It would be a small building blending in with the surrounding architecture, an almost Calvinist austerity on the interior, and a ramshackle parish of tired relics of bygone colonial days. As assumptions tend to be, this was markedly wrong.

     In a large, modern church easily identifiable in the surrounding neighborhood, I attended Mass with a congregation of West African migrants; perhaps no more than ten of us were not among their ranks. The service was in French as I expected, but the parish office provided prayer sheets in English, Spanish, Portuguese, and Arabic as well, and several hymns were sung in some African language I couldn't identify. I was stunned mostly by the sheer number of migrants. In the insular world of the medina, I had grown accustomed to a world that was wholly Moroccan; fresh on the heels of a lecture on Moroccan migrant labor, the at least 200 clearly non-Moroccan, mostly male, churchgoers around me in the pews fascinated me as an irrefutable example of the ever-elusive allure of a new world. As a side note, three women who appeared to be a mother and her daughters, all wearing hijab, joined about halfway through the service. I determined to know more about this group about which I had previously known nothing.

     I arrived early my second Sunday in Fes, and took my seat in one of the pews as fellow worshipers trickled in. A number of men signed a sheet ofs paper on a table near the entrance, something I hadn't seen before. After the recessional, I read the sheet the men had been signing earlier, and they were parish sign-ups for new arrivals, a number near-equally balanced with parishioners announcing their departures. In long rolls above the prayer sheets, as is also custom for churches in America, the parish posts contacts for helping its members integrate. Here, they were all listed by country. In columns, the immigrants listed their names, and where available, phone numbers and email addresses. Hosts from Burkina Faso, Togo, Cameroon, the Congos, and the greatest number from Guinea-Bissau, put themselves out to help their countrymen in either a new home, a refuge, or just another stop on the long road north. I left the courtyard of the church only a few paces behind three men from the congregation, one of whom I recognized as the man who sat across the aisle, a man who, too, arrived early, and, after signing what I believe, imagine, was the departures list, sat silently in prayer until the service began.

     "D'où viens-tu?" "Où vas-tu?" I could ask them. "Comment trouves-tu habiter dans un pays musulmane?" "Aimes-tu le Maroc?" "Quel sont des conditions des immigrants ici?" Those, too, I could have asked. For two blocks, we walked, I only a few paces behind them. The tall man from the pew across the aisle from me bent down to fix his shoe, and I finally spoke.

     "Pardon."

     I passed them and walked the rest of the way to the taxi stand.

William Goes Sheep Shopping; Hilarity Ensues

William Goes Sheep Shopping; Hilarity Ensues


The Sunday before Eid I was invited to join my homestay brothers Mustapha and Ismail and my fellow guest, a Dutch teacher named Kees, at the livestock souq to select a sheep for the festivities. I didn't really know what to expect, but thought it would be something like the produce and poultry sections of the souqs in the medina. No. Oh, lah, lah, lah. I have a meeting with my MSA mentor in the afternoon, but this can't take too long.


12:55 - We hire a grand taxi at Ain Azilten to get there. The four of us occupy the back seat while a very large woman singing to herself sits in the front seat for half the way there.

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Leaving Tangier

 Leaving Tangier

     For me, this post marks three milestones. Milestone one: I am spending my last night in Morocco. Milestone two: I am posting a conventional blog post, not a poem or a rant or a story - a simple descriptive post. Milestone three: I am actually posting. This is cause for celebration in and of itself. I'm not used to this kind of writing, but I might as well give it a try. The following post is a combination of my first impressions on Tetouan and my thoughts on the impending end of the journey.

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December 11, 2010

And They're Off...

All the students are now enroute back home after a wonderful 3 months in Morocco (and our last 5 days in Spain). We spent our last day exploring the wonders of Alhambra and topping it off with a traditional Spanish meal and an amazing flamenco performance in a cave! The students all miss Morocco, but are excited to see their friends and families and be home for the holidays!