A glimpse of our evening flamenco performance...

Everyone is just about to rise for the day and prepare to get on the plane. We're coming home...

Posted by Kempie at 05:59 AM | Permalink | Comments (0)

In Sidi Ifni

We are in the land of blue and white. Sidi Ifni has these old crumbly Spanish influenced buildings that look very horror-esque. We've been student leading and Abby and I are in charge of budget so we are furiously writing down every purchase.

I just dyed my hair with henna so it is a nice shiny orangey but my head smells like henna. The first time I tried to dye it I like any normal person bought the henna for hair, thinking it would turn my hair red. I didn't know that hair henna just conditions the hair and maybe tints it a liitttlle bit. So after a very messy and globby experience my hair just maybe felt softer and it was a bit disapointing. This time I bought the correct henna which is just body henna and real gloves this time and I kept it on overnight so that it would intensify and voila! My hair is excellently coloured now.

This student led business has made me really appreciate Kempie and Michelle's work to make everything run smoothly. We have people divided up to do transport, food, hotels, budget and etc but Kempie and Michelle do everything which is really admirable.

The American election is I guess tomorrow so the whole group is really into it...CaNADian elections already happened so it's not really my concerns, although probably it indirectly affects Canada.
Tomorrow we move onto Taroudant and hopefully some accessible internet! Cross your fingers for whoever you wish to win !

Jenny

I must preface this post with my zeal at the thought of public transportation; in San Francisco, I felt so moved by my experiences on the Muni, the local bus, that my roommate and I wrote a series of vignettes entitled “Adventures on the Muni”. In India, I collected newspaper clippings of the various tragedies involving electrocution due to the locals sitting atop moving trains (I longed to be one with the locals and sit atop the overspilling trains but had to make due with the newspaper cutouts seeing as my grandmother forbade me from even the thought of riding the local trains). In Manhattan, my experiences extend from someone threatening me with “imma stick this knife in you, if you bump me one more time” to being surrounded by a quartet of harmonizing vocalists. Certain experiences have since transformed my pure pleasure at public transit into a more skeptical enthusiasm, however I cannot deny that almost every experience, is a full-of-kinks adventure.

November First. The start of a new month, a new city, and new leaders. With our departure from Essaouira we felt the “winds of change”.
I naively remarked to Ella that we had been lucky with weather thus far on the journey, thinking that we were leaving behind the storm front which had approached Essaouira just as we had with the rains in Fes before Marrakesh and Marrakesh before the High Atlas. Alas! Such was not our fate as we took our voyaging into our own hands. The bad weather seemed to be travelling with us as we walked through festering puddles with our 20 lb packs strapped to our backs, braced ourselves against the damp air and held out in soaking wet clothing and dirt coated feet.

I suppose it taught me a think or two about appreciating comforts however.

Isabella

Hamak bizef or shwiya? Transl: very crazy or a little

Whenever i mention my homestay mother, L'aziza, the uniform response is for people to express that she is a bit "off". Its been something I take for granted when mentioning my host mother, and let is slide with a knowing chuckle. She is undeniably quite the character.
L'aziza had in the past requested my empty water bottles for various uses; however, now, I have begun to hand my empty bottles to her without being asked to. And each time, i give her an empty bottle, she wishes me "may god give you a good husband", i discovered thanks to the translation of my homestay sister.
Upping the crazy meter, however, a few days ago, L'aziza bade the family goodnight and went up to the second floor to sleep. About fifteen minutes upon her retreat however, we were jolted by her shrill cry of "eh Lamia!" (her daughter) and the pelting of apples from the above terrace. An important point to keep in mind firstly, is that the distance between the first and the second floors of my homestay isn't slight--at least six meters, so dropping apples from the terrace of the second floor to the first is hardly an effective method of transport (if in fact that is what l'aziza was going for) because any apple would break upon contact with the ground. Secondly, l'aziza had half peeled the apples, so we hardly found the dirty remnants appetizing when we picked them up off the ground. Lastly, however, and perhaps the most puzzling was that Lamia already had a basket of fruit on her lap downstairs, which l'aziza had handed her before going to bed. So what L'aziza thought she would want with more apples is beyond me.
Perhaps there's more to the exclamations of "L'aziza Hamak" than I had realized before....

Isabella

Posted by Kempie at 03:05 AM | Permalink | Comments (0)

We have been thoroughly enjoying our time in Spain and definitely feeling the cold in Granada (good preparations for our return home). This morning we toured the wonder that is the Alhambra and this evening we will celebrate Jenny's 16th Birthday and our final night with a local Flamenco performance.

We all look forward to reuniting with our families tomorrow evening!

Posted by Kempie at 06:44 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

The group has arrived at the semester's final destination, the alluring city of Granada. Home to the spectacular and mythical Alhambra palace dating from the 11th century, the sinuous Albayzin (the old Islamic quarter), aromatic tapas, and sensuous flamenco, Granada is truly a grand finale for this Morocco fall 2008 experience.

Alex

Posted by Alex Safos at 01:22 AM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Posted by Kempie at 03:06 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

This morning, we watched Morocco disappear into the distance and after a short ferry ride we arrived in Spain. The group is currently waiting on the train to Cordoba and we will arrive in the early evening. Tomorrow we will visit various historical and cultural sites including the Mezquita, the Sinogoga, and the Torre de la Calahorra...just to name a few.

More to come soon...

Posted by Kempie at 11:42 AM | Permalink | Comments (1)

Our last stop in Morocco...it's hard to believe our time in Morocco is coming to a close. Here are some images of what we have been up to in Tanja:

Enjoying Mint Tea at Cafe Halfa

Taking in the view of the Straits

Checking out the latest Moroccan/Spanish fusion designs

A visit to the fascinating museum in the Kasbah, Dar El Makhzen, which tracks the history of Tangier as well as some interesting information on the great traveler, Ibn Batuta

This evening, we will have a lecture on 20th Century Tangier and perhaps a local movie viewing. Tomorrow we will spend our last day with a visit to the Caves of Hercules and Cap Spartel as well as a visit to the American Legation, a museum dedicated to the long standing relationship between the US and Morocco.

Posted by Kempie at 12:38 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

The group has made it to cosmopolitan Tangier on the Atlantic Coast and astride the Strait of Gibraltar--less than 20 miles from Europe. This will draw an end to the African portion of the semester before the students make the symbolic crossing into Spain.

The group ate lunch today at "Darna", a restaurant rehabilitator for dispossessed Moroccan women, and will enjoy some mint tea overlooking the ocean at the famed ex-Beat hangout of Cafe Hafa.

Because of its strategic location, Tangier attracted the interest of many western powers and was deemed an "International Zone" in the 20th century, with several countries establishing a presence (and profiting from banking) before Morocco gained independece in 1956. Tangier's unusual status also made it a magnet for hedonists, con artists, exiles, and artists seeking inspiration on the African continent. The American Beat writers were especially drawn to Tangier's libertine ambience with Alan Ginsberg, Jack Kerouac, and William Burroughs spending time here. Tangier also became the adopted home of the late great American author, Paul Bowles, most famous for his existential novel, "The Sheltering Sky." Today, Tangier is undergoing a makeover, with significant investments in its tourism and trade infrastructure: plans are to re-introduce Tangier as a major resort rivaling Spain's Costa del Sol while also transforming its port facilities into one of Africa's largest.

Alex

Posted by Alex Safos at 05:47 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

The group hikes into the countryside to find a rich array of medicinal plants

Learning the process of the distillation of Myrtle

Posted by Kempie at 12:31 PM | Permalink | Comments (1)

The group has made it to the scenic Rif mountain village of Chefchaouen with its cozy whitewashed medina and pastel blue hued doors and arches. They will tour the placid medina today and check out the local hammam. Given Spain's historic influence over northern Morocco, Spanish will now begin to replace French as the secondary language. Hello "Hola!" and Au Revoir "Ca Va!."

Alex

Posted by Alex Safos at 03:23 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Our first and final view of Fes from above....

We will miss you, Fes, and all of the people who have enriched our lives here.

Posted by Kempie at 09:12 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

So I wanted to use the blog as a public way to thank my homestay family (of Fes, phase II). They have been so wonderful to me and I am very sad that I will be leaving them tomorrow. They have installed a shower head for me (well I assume it was for me), bought me a large mirror to use in my room, and last night gave me a very nice sweater -- that in addition to feeding me, housing me, and demonstrating immesurable amounts of warmth and love. I feel like I have become a better person simply by being around them, and hope that in the future I can show other people some of the kindness that they have shown me.

Thank you Halima, Toufique, Meryeme, Soukaina, Oumaima, Ahmed, and Amine. I love you all very much and wish you the best now and always.

Posted by Catherine at 04:06 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

We are wrapping up our time in Fes. It's hard to believe we only have about 36 hours left in this city that we have learned to call home. Today we had our ISP presentations. It was quite fascinating to learn about all of the student's topics in detail. They have really engaged and sought a deeper understanding of Moroccan culture through their ISPs.
Here's a taste:

Feel that kiis (hammam scrub). Isabella explores the deeper cultural significance as well as the everyday practices of the hammam (public bathes) experience in Morocco.

Ella demonstrates the technique for Moroccan wood painting.

Look what I made! Ella reveals her handmade Moroccan wedding earring.

Ben explains fascinating and complex issues of Moroccan history.

Coley prepares a delectable Moroccan juice for us all to enjoy!

Catherine shares her newfound knowledge of Islam with the group

Check out those hands! Tessa shows off the henna styles she has learned.

Jenny serenades us with a song on the Andalusian lute.

Abby explains her mixed media painting and her experience apprenticing with a local artist.

Check out those moves! Tessa and Isabella shake their bodies during their oriental/bellydancing performance.

Posted by Kempie at 10:04 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

So this is a bit of a belated entry....but this is a little soundtrack we came up with to a-mule-se ourselves on trek...

1. I Like To Mule It
2. Mule River
3. Please Don't Stop The Mule-sic
4. My Mule My Man
5. My Hobz Don't Lie
6. Mule Glorious Mule
7. I Kissed A Barbie (Tashelheit remix)
8. In Da Hobz
9. Tanjini in a Bottle
10. Berber-Ann

I am sorry if these make little to no sense to all you out there, perhaps we were a little delirious up there in the mountains.

Posted by Ella at 03:17 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Kempie and the students have returned to Fes and will conclude their ISPs and home-stay experience with a group celebration. All will relish their final few days in this adopted second home before heading north to Chefchaouen later this week.

Alex

Posted by Alex Safos at 02:51 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

The group and a royal guard at the Mohammed V Mausoleum

The Chellah still looks beautiful in the rain.

The group strolls the streets of Rabat

It would have been grand...The Hassan Tower, which would have been one of the largest minarets in the world at the time had it been completed.

The group participates in a lecture on Women, Islam, and the Family Code (Mudawana) Reforms at the Center for Cross-Cultural Learning.

Posted by Kempie at 10:31 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

We've received word that the group has arrived in Rabat for their excursion and are in search of Syrian food for dinner. Tajines will have this weekend off. More from Kempie and the students soon.

Alex

Posted by Alex Safos at 06:48 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Today we are headed to Rabat, the capital of Morocco, the seat of Moroccan political affairs, and home to the king himself, Mohammed the Sixth (or as we refer to him, Mo VI). We will spend the weekend visiting various historic sites around Rabat as well as participating in two lectures - Women, Islam, and the Family Law/Code (Mudawana) Reforms and Moroccan Politics. In addition, we hope to enjoy a taste of some of the international food available in this metropolitan capital...mmmm!

Posted by Kempie at 12:58 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Here are a few images from our Global LAb Thanksgiving in Fes. We learned how to make some Moroccan dishes for lunch (including turkey tagine) followed by pumkin pie for dessert!

Ella grates a tomato while Jenny and Abby give moral support

Abby and Tessa cut some b'sla (onions)

Ready to eat

Turkey!!!

And some delectable pumpkin pie

Posted by Kempie at 07:59 PM | Permalink | Comments (1)

Green Light

Red Light

Posted by Kempie at 10:05 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Abby paints with a local artist

Ella practices her metal sawing skills on a pair of wedding earrings

Jenny learns how to play the classical Andalusian instrument, the oud (lute).

Check out those moves!

Posted by Kempie at 07:23 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

While French is still the most prominent second or third language (depending on whether a Amazigh dialect is one's native tongue), English is gaining popularity quickly and Morocco has recognized it's importance as an "international language." This morning the Global LAB students taught English classes to local students from the Sefrou region (just half an hour outside of Fes). This program was established to serve those students who wish to have additional English training but cannot afford the often expensive lessons at a private institution. The Global LAB students offered these Moroccan students the opportunity to hear and speak with a native English speaker in addition to having some quality cross-cultural exchanges.

Tessa, Catherine, Coley, and Ella taught the lower level classes about U.S. holidays (both secular/national and religious), while Ben, Jenny, Isabella and Abby engaged in discussions about urban, suburban, and rural life in the U.S./Canada with the upper level students. I was very impressed with the Global LAB students' teaching skills! We also learned more about the lives of Moroccan teenagers in Sefrou.

Tomorrow morning the group will continue to learn more about the artisan trades of Fes with a workshop on woodcarving - a delightful decorative element of most traditional Moroccan houses and buildings.

Posted by Kempie at 02:42 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

This morning, the group took a visit to Art Naji, a local zellij (mosaic tilework) and pottery factory. There we learned about the traditional process of creating this fantastic artisan work that Fes is famous for. We witnessed skilled potters throw tagines (the traditional pot for cooking many Moroccan dishes) and candlesticks in minutes on a manual wheel (fueled by the power of the potter's legs) as well as the process of creating intricate mosaic shapes that eventually will be placed together to make a table or a traditional Fes fountain (Fes is renowned for their beautiful zellij fountains all around the medina). The artisans apprentice for five to seven years and all of the artisans are led by a ma'lem (or master craftsman).

Omar explains the process of zellij making

In the afternoon, the students continued to dive into their ISP work. More to come from the students on their projects in the days to come...

But here's a taste...

Tessa tries out the "beldi" (or traditional) style of henna

Ella delves into a local jewelry art form - making wedding crowns, necklaces, and belts

Ben talks about Safi pirates and the controversial reign of Hassan II with a local history expert

Posted by Kempie at 09:52 PM | Permalink | Comments (1)

I believe that is the correct expression. I have been away from an English speaking country too long to remember.

Anyway, like everyone else, I am very happy to be back in Fes and have greatly enjoyed my first three days here again. Although Fes still feels like home for me, I have experienced two major changes...I have both a new ISP (like some other students) AND a new family (I am the only one)!

I met with my ISP mentor yesterday and we had a wonderful talk about Islam. How different it really is from what the majority of Westerners think! Who would have thought that for Muslims, the world began with Adam and continued with Noah, Moses, and Jesus (among other prophets), before of course eventually getting to Mohamed? The only main difference I have seen so far is that in Islam, Jesus is just considered to be another prophet and not the son of God. But my mentor has emphasized that Jesus, Moses, etc. are prophets in addition to Mohamed, and Muslims love them. I think I even heard from a Peace Corps volunteer in Morocco that Muslims believe that Jesus will be there at the day of judgement. (I would have to check on that one to be sure.) Anyway, my mentor and I talked about many things related to Islam, some involving culture, others about things written in the Koran, etc. I am trying to procure a copy of the Koran in English to help further our discussions, but I have so many things to ask and can't wait to continue my sessions.

When I was told the night before we moved back into homestays that I would not be with the same family, I was very sad. However, my new family has been wonderful. I have three sisters -- ages 14, 12, and 7 -- a 4 year old brother and a baby brother, and, of course, a mom and a dad. The mother is extremely welcoming and treats me like her own daughter. The only problem we have had so far is that she wants me to eat way more food than I have room for. I have been commanded many times 'culi bizaf!!!' (eat a lot!!!); 'no, more, you have to be fat!'! It gets frightening sometimes! However, one of my sisters and I were looking through a magazine yesterday and came upon a photo of a Caucasian woman who must weigh 600 or more pounds. I pointed at her and said 'culi bizaf!!!', and my mom thought that was the funniest thing ever. My sisters have also been wonderful. Yesterday, each of them wrote me love letters full of drawings of hearts. They told me that they love me, that they are so happy for me to be in Fes, and that they just want me to be happy in life. (All of this translated by the oldest sister, who has just started to learn English.) I created letters for them, all cut out in the shapes of hearts, and they immediately glued them into their notebooks and treasured them.

Although I miss my old family sometimes, I am very excited for the next couple of weeks in Fes and for all of the great times that I will surely have with my new family.

Catherine

Posted by Catherine at 04:12 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

One month passed; I think
And what are these new structures?
There is some displaced glory in these alleyways
The rain washed away the grime, I think
And the men creating smooth stone layers stop and say good morning
We sit on our beds and sigh the sighs weve waited one whole month
to sigh
And my bag sits empty in the corner
There is so much time, I think
And Fes continues to blossom, with a new sheen
With a new perspective

Posted by Jenny at 11:48 AM | Permalink | Comments (1)

We have all thoroughly enjoyed our travels in the South for the past month and now all the students are ready to get back to their homestay families and everyday life in Fes. This morning all the students were warmly greeted by their homestay families. They spent the morning getting settled again. In the afternoon, the group explored a new part of Fes – Fes El-Jdid. Even though the literal translation for Fes El-Jdid is “New Fes,” this part of the city dates back to the 13th Century during the Merenid dynasty. We strolled the streets of the Mellah (Jewish Quarter), visited the Ibn Danan Synagogue, tasted some delectable Moroccan cotton candy and sugared donuts, and gazed at the mannequins sporting the latest Moroccan fashion. We also admired the grandiose golden brass doors of the Royal Palace, home to the King when he is in Fes.

Tomorrow the students will resume their darija classes and begin their ISPs. Some students will continue to explore the same topic as during the first stay in Fes; while others have found new interests – all sound promising and intriguing. More to come from the students on the topics of choice...

Posted by Kempie at 09:16 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

The group is back in their adopted home of Fes and recommence their home-stays starting today. More from Kempie and the students soon.

Alex

Posted by Alex Safos at 06:29 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Jenny gets a hug from a Barbary Macaque

The oldest cedar tree in Morocco

The group takes a stroll through the Cedar Forest as Sara educates us all on the current ecological issues of the area

The group learns about the original cave houses of the Azrou area

Tessa, Jenny, and Isabella try out the gym facilities at Al Akhawayn University (AUI)

An engaging dinner discussion about education and employment with AUI students

Posted by Kempie at 10:16 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

The group has made its way to the Middle Atlas village of Ifrane, a ski resort with Swiss-inspired chalet architecture and home of the prestigious English language Al-Akhawayn University (AUI). Today the students will enage in a service activity at the nearby Azrou Center for Community Development, and tomorrow they will attend two cultural lectures by AUI professors. Then it's back "home" to Fes.

Alex

Posted by Alex Safos at 04:01 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Sunrise at Erg Chebbi

It was worth waking up at 5:30am!

Coley and Tessa wear their scarves the Saharan way

Enjoying the ride

Shadows in the Sand

Isabella tries out the "jockey" position

Ahh...the view doesn't get much better than this!

Such an interesting animal...

Posted by Kempie at 10:31 PM | Permalink | Comments (1)

Kempie texted to say that the group is having a fantastic camel trek among the dunes. They will spend one more night in the desert before making their way back north, traveling to Ifrane tomorrow. Expect to get some perspectives on the caravan then or shortly thereafter when they return to Fes.

Alex

Posted by Alex Safos at 06:34 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

The students have arrived in Merzouga, portal to The Sahara in southeast Morocco, and are off to play in the spectacular dunes of Erg Chebbi. The camels are being fed and rested in preparation for tomorrow's caravan into the desert. In Arabic, "Ya Salaam!" (literally, "Oh Peaceful One!", one of Allah's 99 names) is often exclaimed in reaction to the awesome and sublime. The desert expanse, the stillness, the silence, and its glowing colors at dawn and dusk should yield numerous "Ya Salaams!" among our group.

Alex

Posted by Alex Safos at 05:37 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Dear MoTen, (you should be back to ten again, now!)

I had an uneventful, though long return home on Thursday. I left you all at the hotel in Ourzazate about 4:30 am and got home to VT about midnight which meant about 24 hours in transit when you factor in the time difference- it was a long day and my thoughts were with you often...especially when the passenger sitting next to me on Royal Air Maroc advised me to look out for the falling drips of water coming from the linking ventilation system- a bit of de ja vu :)

When I got to JFK I saw a couple people walk by with small cups of Dunkin Donuts coffee and their 12 oz glasses looked ginormous compared to the tiny coffee cups I got used to in Maroc :) At home I made a 8 oz mug of coffee and even that looked indulgent compared to the more moderate serving sizes of the Nescafe Aalaits from the past few weeks. I expect I will readjust to the bigger servings here once again and will also soon cease to be surprised when hot water comes out in the shower every time, without even having to pay an extra 10 Ds!

I do miss not having an endless supply of olives and hubs, and I can't bring myself to consume the not-fresh-squeezed oj here yet either. I am glad to report that my love of cats has returned instantly upon coming home to the less scrappy felines of the world- my new kitten Salassie is a keeper and might even win over you non-cat students in the group...

It was such a pleasure to get to know and work with you all over the past three weeks of your Morocco term- I do hope you all will keep in touch. I have many fond memories of the time spent with all of you. For those of you in the greater Boston area I'd like to propose a tentative rendezvous at the Alewife Bertuccis on Dec 18- any and all are welcome, you can even bring your parents along if you'd like to :) If that does not work out, then I hope you are able to make it up to Vermont for a Moroccan meal at my place one day- my "bab" is always open for all of you.

Continue reading "Hello from Michelle" »

Posted by Aaron Bos-Lun at 04:11 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Ella, Isabella, and Abby show their enthusiasm towards tooth brushing!

Jenny and Tessa show the kids how it's done!

Don't miss a spot

Get those back teeth

Rinse away

Catherine shows the students how to keep their teeth cavity-free

The kids have it down!

Posted by Kempie at 09:15 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Posted by Kempie at 07:57 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

We just arrived back in Tinghir after a busy two days in the Taghzoute village. The group had an amazing time there! All of the students lived with Amazigh families - a good comparison to their urban and mostly Arab Fassi families. In the Taghzoute community, everyone speaks Tachelheit as a first language. The Amazigh movement is very strong there. The tribe there has lots of pride about the culture and traditions.

We spent our mornings designing and painting two murals -one with a peace theme and the other relating to hygiene and health - with local Moroccan high school students. In the afternoons, the group participated in tooth brushing lessons at the elementary school led by several Peace Corps Volunteers and Moroccan high school students. For some of the local students, this was the first time they had brushed their teeth. I must say the Global LAB students did an excellent job demonstrating the proper way to brush - don't miss those back teeth!

Today we will head into the Todra Gorge for two days for some rest and relaxation in stunning natural beauty. Tomorrow we will take a day hike through the area and visit a nomadic family for tea and learn a bit about their lives.

Posted by Kempie at 12:07 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

We have been on the road a lot lately leaving little time to write, but I just want to fill all of you blog readers in on our activities. Today we arrived in Tinghir - one of my favorite places in Morocco. It's located in the palmary region of SE Morocco. Today we visited an association for people with disabilities, Association Ighir. Ned, a local Peace Corps Volunteer, showed us around the association and the student learned how to do various craft work that is done there including jewelry-making, metal-smithing, candle-making, and embroidery. It was a wonderful experience!

Abby and Catherine draw with two girls at Association Ighir

Tomorrow we will head into a more rural village and participate in a community service project centered around health education and peace. The group will paint murals and teach the local youth about basic hygiene. Local Moroccan students studying English with assist with translation. This area is predominately Imazighen (the indigenous people of Morocco), so Tachelheit (not darija) is the main language. In addition, the students will live in rural homestays for 2 days. Everyone is excited for the activities to come.

We will most likely be out of internet contact for the next two days, but updates to come when we return...

Posted by Kempie at 06:28 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

The group continues its move towards the Sahara with a multi-day stopover in the oasis village of Tinerhir. The students will enter into two-day home-stays tomorrow and participate in a mural/health awareness project. Today they are touring Association Ighir which provides opportunities to people with disabilities.

Alex

Posted by Alex Safos at 03:45 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

The group has arrived in Ouarzazate for the night where they will tour the exquisite Ait Benhaddou Kasbah (another UNESCO World Heritage Site) and the Atlas Film Studios, set to several Hollywood films, including "Kundun", "Jewel of the Nile", and "Alexander the Great" among others.

Alex

Posted by Alex Safos at 03:07 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Today the group is having an enjoyable transit day in Tarradount. We rode in two "grand taxis" to get here (which happened to be bright teal Mercedes). Tomorrow we are going on to Ourzazate- a place with one of the best names ever which also happens to be the location of many a film that was made in Morocco, including one of my favorites; Kundun.

After lunch on the edge of the market, we broke into small groups to explore the town. While browsing through the Berber medina I encountered a young man who spoke good English who became very excited at seeing my Obama t-shirt. "I want to trade with you, really" he told me "You can have any shirt you want and I will take yours, Obama is great, Mc Cain is zero and Bush is zero but Obama is great". With an argument like that I felt I had to do my part to promote global understanding and exchange and literally give the guy the shirt off my back- this was a bit of a challenge as we were not in an area with anything close to a dressing room though so I recruited Catherine and Kempie to help hang a tapestry that I could change behind and voila! my Obama shirt went to a young Moroccan and I got myself a brand new tshirt with some camels on it- a good trade I think and it definitely made my new friend happy. Rarely have I had the chance to give something to someone who wanted something so much and it felt like the right thing to do even though I was enjoying the conversation my shirt was promoting all day. People here love Obama even more than they do in Vermont (and he at one point was predicted to win my state by a 30 pt margin).

We are all eagerly waiting for the election news. It will be interesting to see how people respond to it here, there is a lot of hope that Obama will win and that that will be a good thing for the world. We shall see- Inshallah.

Michelle

Posted by Alex Safos at 06:33 PM | Permalink | Comments (1)

I have been enjoying my break from leading for the past four days. The students have done a wonderful job organizing and guiding me around for the student-led portion. I have been very impressed! After a long journey down to Sidi Ifni from Essaouira, we finally left the rain and embraced the sun once again. We spent the second day of the student-led portion at the weekly souk - where everything from the colorful sheet fabrics that the local women wear to fresh oranges and plump chickens are sold. On souk day, everyone closes their shop (at least for part of the day) to get their necessities for the week. It is also a wonderful space to stroll and catch up with friends and family. After the souk, part of the group explored the nearby Legzira beach with picturesque sandstone arches. We returned to the beach the following day for some chilly swimming and beach walking.

Souk day

Sandstone arches at Legzira Beach

Today we arrived in Taroudannt - known as a mini-Marrakesh. It's comforting to be back in the medina walls. We explored the Arab and Berber markets this afternoon. Tomorrow, we will head on to Ouarzazate, where we will visit one of the best preserved kasbahs in all of the country, Ait Benhaddou. We may even get a chance to have a tour at a local film studio.

Isabella and Tessa take the local transport to Ait Benhaddou

The group at the top of Ait Benhaddou - enjoying the view

Posted by Kempie at 04:11 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

The student-led portion of the semester is winding down in the Anti-Atlas Mountains. I received a text message from Tessa this morning signaling the group's arrival in Taroudant for 1 night before heading tomorrow to Ouarzazate--gateway to "Kasbah Country".

Alex

Posted by Alex Safos at 02:41 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

This morning we all enjoyed walking to the weekly souk in Sidi Ifni and looking through the vast amounts of produce, fabrics, and other miscellaneous items. A few of us even bought some delicious nougat! The afternoon consisted of an optional visit to a nearby beach with beautiful natural arches. We ate a delicious dinner -- everything from beef tagine to paella! Tomorrow's activities will be optional, with some returning to the beach with arches, some surfing, and others exploring the town.

Catherine

Posted by Alex Safos at 10:46 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

After a long bus ride, the group has landed safe and sound in Sidi Ifni on the southern coast. This commences the student-led portion of the semester (leaders present, of course), and in this spirit, I received a text message from Coley noting their arrival. Some desolate beaches with magnificent sandstone arches abutting the Atlantic could be in their near future.

Alex

Posted by Alex Safos at 10:03 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Posted by Kempie at 08:53 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Good to the last bite - lunch at the fish market

A windy walk to Jimi Hendrix's Castle Made of Sand

Warming Up

Tessa preps for the waves

Michelle rides the waves

Gnawa jam session

Enjoying tea (even in a tiny cup)

Posted by Kempie at 04:55 PM | Permalink | Comments (2)

The group has arrived in Essaouira, the Windsurfing Capital of Africa, for a few days of chill time on the beach. Grilled sardines, sunsets over the Atlantic, strolls through its cozy whitewashed medina, and some surfing lessons (weather permitting) could be on tap.

Alex

Posted by Alex Safos at 06:15 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

This afternoon we arrived in Essaouira. It's quite windy here - in fact, it is the windsurfing capital of Africa - but it's also nice and sunny. We enjoyed a pleasant lunch and an orientation to the city together. Essaouira was originally a Phoenician city named Migdol (watchtower) in the 7th Century. In the 15th Century, the Portuguese took hold of the city and named it Mogador. Later the name was changed to Essaouira meaning well-designed. Essaouira has a small medina with characteristic rich blue doors. In 2001, the medina was added as a UNESCO world heritage site. For decades, Essouira has hosted a rich artist community. Jimi Hendrix is rumored to have spent anywhere from a week to a few months in the nearby town of Diabat. Every year, the internationally recognized Gnawa music festival is held here. Essaouira was also the shooting site for Orson Wells' Othello and the more recent Kingdom of Heaven.

Tonight we will have a Gnawa music performance and tomorrow morning we are looking forward to surfing! We happen to be in Essaouira during an Andalusian Music festival, so we are psyched to hear some concerts later this week.

Posted by Kempie at 06:04 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Success!

Ben serves us up some atay - frothin' it up

The group at the final pass

Ella and Jenny carry an olive tree - heavier than it looks!

Diggin' it up

Posted by Kempie at 09:26 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

It is the third official day of the trek but our fourth day hiking. I think we are all feeling it a little. Personally I find the jagged slippery rocks to be really hard on my ankles and feet. It is very nice to curl up after a hard longish day and just get to eavesdrop on British people's conversations and read a book and do a lot of sleeping. Today was freezing which makes me very excited for winter. Ski season seems right around the corner. At our current altitude it is rain.
Typing on Kempie's normal keyboard is throwing me off!
An aging hippy in Toronto told me that the Atlas mountains were the mountains of red and green. She is right. The colours in Morocco are more vivid than anywhere else I've been.
The Amazighr villages here are so quaint and calm in such contrast to the cities. Berber children are rosy cheeked and they don't terrorize us like the kids in big cities do. There are sheep and goats and life here is so simple but so much more attractive than city life.
The clouds move really fast. Mom and dad and Kate and Chris and Ian I say hi and I think my family would really like this trek. It's hard to trek with many people with different skill levels and paces. I miss my guitar. The mountains feel like the best place to have singalongs.
:)

Posted by Jenny at 08:17 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Something I have discovered so far is that friends are very easy to make in Morocco. A common method seems to be buying things from people and the surprisingly natural friendship that ensues. I have had an interesting experience that doesn't fit this stereotype, however, that I thought would be fun to share...

It was the day of our train ride from Fes to Marrakech. Gigantic backpacks devouring our (mostly) small persons, we boarded the train and looked for empty cabins. As it worked out, I wanted more space to sprawl out and rest than was available in the cabins the group shared, so I decided to look farther down the train. I soon found a mostly empty cabin and settled down next to the window opposite a young, modern-looking Moroccan man. He started talking to me in English and I thought, “Oh, that's nice, he knows a little bit of English and wants to practice”. Wrong. We exchanged the normal bit of 'getting to know you information', but then he kept talking. And talking. And talking. After a good half hour, he decided to be quiet and I reached into my small daypack and ate some of the ridiculous amount of food I had bought for the ride. And that was how a large portion of the next seven or so hours unfolded, switching between talking with my new Moroccan friend and eating TONS of food. I learned lots of interesting things about this man, from the fact that he and his wife lived in Marrakech and had been traveling in Fes to the fact that he had wanted Hilary Clinton to become the next president of the United States. He seemed to find me interesting (and amusing) as well, as I learned on round five-ish of my snack consumption, when he burst out laughing and said that I had a very large appetite. He also told me that I was quite opinionated for being so young, and that I was very warm and open, like a Moroccan – and unlike many of the Europeans and Americans that visit Morocco. My favorite experience came when he and his wife pulled out their lunch. As I had been sharing some of my food with him, he politely offered to share his sandwiches with me. He put the first one between us and said “Eat with me”. I don't know what processing glitch took place in my brain, but I confidently extended my neck forward and started tearing off a piece with my teeth when he exclaimed “No, no, pull of a bit with your hands!”. I complied and pretended everything was normal as we shared two more of his sandwiches. However, by the time we got to oranges, I couldn't hold it in any longer and nearly fell over laughing in embarrassment at the fact that I had attempted to invade a near stranger's sandwich with my personal supply of germs and saliva. He looked dumbfounded, but after I explained why I was laughing – and apologized many times – he found it quite the funny thing too. The couple of hours after lunch were shared listening to my iPod. I had found that consuming sandwiches was quite traumatizing and that I wanted to (finally) rest and literally tune everyone out with my music. Once again, things didn't go as planned. As soon as I had taken out my iPod, my friend asked “Oh, can I listen to your iPod?”. I agreed and he immediately declared that he wanted Latin music, and NOT Reggaeton. I thought for a minute and then directed him to my short playlist of Bachata music. He absolutely loved it, saying that it was “too clean, too beautiful”. This is something that I would not have expected out of a Moroccan man – or most men in general. Eventually I fell asleep and woke up to him calling my name and welcoming me to his hometown. We parted ways, and I felt a strong connection to someone I had only spent seven hours with, and who's name I didn't even know.

Posted by Catherine at 08:15 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

In Marrakesh, we passed by the same sorry looking mule each day. The poor creature's rib cage protruded out of its coarse, mangy fur (if you can call it that). It was literally foaming at the mouth, and flies seemed to have made a home of the froth. And despite the poor poor creature's obvious misery, it nevertheless stood unnaturally still. Should this truly be the life of a mule? Yes, it is a pack animal, yes it lives in the crass streets of Morocco, but surely there is some greater calling for the mules of this earth.

I have found this calling: in the Atlas mountains. The mules here seem to be an entirely different animal; they walk our treacherous trails with the dexterity of a tightrope walker, frolic and roll about in the grassy plains like wee tots, are strapping young specimens of robust physique and rich golden-brown hues. What could account for such differences between the same animal, you may ask. And my seamless response is the mulesketeers. Now the mulesketeers may “technically” be Moroccan mulemasters, however the comraderie between mule and muleman is a bond so tender that the normal hierarchical relationship implicit in the term mulemaster leads one to a false conclusion about the duo. In truth, the mulesketeers, Rachid, Rachid, and Rahim, maintain a physical connection to their animals of hand-to-tail throughout their mountainous journey. The mulesketeers summon their mules not with whips, but with serenades of traditional Berber music, and gentle love taps of a crop upon their animals' smooth hides. The mules are given breaks more frequent than their mulesketeers even need, freely grazing along the breathtaking mountain tops of the high atlas—a privilege most Moroccans don't even enjoy. Lastly, the mulesketeers honor their prized companions by allowing them to have right of way throughout all the passes on the mountain top—that is, if the mulesketeers and their companions happen to approach any other hikers along their trek, the hikers are requested to stand aside for the mule precession in solemn respect of the prized pack animals.

I truly admire the work of the mulesketeers. Theirs is a combination of love, friendship, playfulness and traditional Berber customs which is a sight unbenownst to any western relationship I have observed thus far. Ride on mulesketeers.

Posted by Isabella at 08:14 PM | Permalink | Comments (1)

Today was our first day braving the High Atlas mountains on foot. With the aid of trail mix, my hiking boots, and internal chantings of “I Just Can't Wait To Be King” I managed to make it up the steep vertical inclines—all while avoiding rocks, sprinklings of mule dung pellets and treacherous torrents of water, i'll have you know. Although the small trail paths provided an interesting scenic change to any American landscape that I had ever encountered, I think I preferred the modern dirt roads; while the trails were dry, sparse, and rocky (excepting symmetric plantings of various poplar or pine trees etching the red soil), the modern roads provided an awesome (in the classic sense of the word) panoramic of an infinitely vast backdrop of green-hued cutouts, sheep checkering the opposing side of the landscape, resounding streams of fresh water and of course the majestic snow capped mountains, which were laced with an underlayer of clouds that flow across their tips like dry ice.

The way of life here is noticeably simpler, evidenced even just by the lack of hostility in the children-- who had previously menaced us throughout our urban journeys if you recollect. Yesterday, we passed by Berber women singing as they scrubbed clothes by a mini rivulet. And a sheep herder who controlled the movement of his flock by a mere whistley hiss and rubber staff. And men who appeared to be uselessly digging up piles of earth which made up an enormous plain of rock. We found out from our guide that they were foraging for materials for building which would be transported back to their villages. On our day hike yesterday, there were two women dressed in jellabas trekking down the same path as us, yelling with obvious discontentment at someone ahead of them—it was unclear whom. I shot a questioning glance at our guide, Rashid, who explained that the women were complaining that they were tired and wanted mules. I suggested that they weren't Berber women which he reaffirmed by their inappropriate medina pointy-toed slipper footwear-- Marrakchi women. It was really interesting what a significant contrast the urban women provided to their tougher Berber guide, for whom walking the path was a way of life.

On today's hike, I was asked if I was a Berber woman, which I take as a sign that I already have tougher skin. Or at least I can pretend?

Posted by Isabella at 08:11 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Musical exchanges

It is our third day of hiking. We are in a small ski town that is virtually abandoned since there is no snow in the area yet (though there is a fair bit at higher altitudes not to far away. It is very beautiful in a rugged, but also lush way, and there are lots of sheep, Berber people, and some other travelers going along the mountain paths. Today we did not encounter many people but we did see a lot of sheep and goats and had a great picnic in an open valley. The hiking includes a lot of ups and downs but that means also amazing views from many vantage points. It feels great to just put one foot in front of another as we make our way up the mountains, enjoy the views, and then hike on down again.

Continue reading "Ski Town and Berber Music, by Michelle" »

Posted by Aaron Bos-Lun at 05:52 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

This morning we returned to Marrakesh after a very successful community service project at Dar Tabila in the Ourika Valley. We planted olive tress along with turnips, carrots, corriander, and peas. We also engaged in a very thrilling basketball game with the students yesterday. The Global LAB students led a lesson in "American" cooking as well. We taught the girls to make macaroni and cheese, garlic bread, and mashed potatoes - not all originally "American" foods, but they are eaten commonly enough in the US and the ingredients were readily available. The dishes were a huge hit with the Moroccan girls! During this lesson, the Global LABers taught some English cooking vocabulary and we learned some words in Tachelheit.

Today we will spend our final day in Marrakesh enjoying a sunset over Djema El Fna before we head on to our next destination.

Posted by Kempie at 11:55 AM | Permalink | Comments (0)

We received a text message from Kempie today, informing us of the group's safe arrival at Dar Taliba and that the students have already begun planting olive trees as part of their service experience. More soon.

Alex

Posted by Alex Safos at 05:49 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

We received word from Kempie today that the group has returned from a successful six-day trek of the High Atlas Mountains. They will transfer to the Ourika Valley tomorrow where they will engage in a two-day community service project with our local partner, Global Diversity Foundation. Students have already drafted blog entries about their High Atlas experience and these will be posted once they return to Marrakech on Tuesday.

Alex

Posted by Alex Safos at 05:41 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Today the group successfully completed a 6 day trek in the High Atlas! We all enjoyed the beautiful scenery, the sounds of our mule men singing along the way, evening singing, drumming, and card playing together, and even the feeling of our sore muscles at the end of each day.

Tomorrow, we will head towards Marrakesh, but we will remain in the High Atlas region. We will spend the next 2 days in the Ourika Valley at Dar Taliba, a boarding house for high school girls. There we will plant a garden of fruit bearing trees in addition to having some cultural exchanges through cooking.

More to come when we return to Marrakesh (including some pictures of our trek).

Posted by Kempie at 05:10 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Michelle just sent us a text message: "Day 3 in the High Atlas and all is well all are in good health and spirits and are loving our time here." Looks like the mountains and Amazigh people ("Free Men" aka Berbers) are working their centuries-old magic.

Alex

Posted by Alex Safos at 06:29 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

We arrived in Imlil yesterday and have been adjusting to the cold. It's not too cold, but most certainly a little chillier than Marrakesh. We have been comforted by lots of warm blankets and hot soup! Today we took a day hike to the village of Sidi Chamarouche, a site of baraka or blessing since a marabout or saint once lived here. Moroccans from all over the country come to this site to heal their ailments and receive blessings.

We will spend tonight in Imlil again and head out into the mountains tomorrow. The group enjoyed our "warm-up" hike and are looking forward to more days enjoying the stunning landscape.

Posted by Kempie at 05:45 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

I received a text message from Kempie affirming the group's arrival in the Berber mountain village of Imlil. The students will rest and acclimatize in advance of their planned week-long trek which begins tomorrow. Some grand vistas and pastoral settings await. Any updates we receive by text or phone from Kempie will be posted here.

Alex

Posted by Alex Safos at 05:59 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Today we will head into the High Atlas to enjoy the breathtaking landscaping and some challenging, but rewarding hiking around the region. After much time in cities, the students are looking forward to the some time to reflect in a quieter setting. We all look forward to passing through the awe-inspiring landscape dotted with Imazighen (plural of Amazigh) villages. We will stop in these villages along the way and enjoy some tea and laughter with the locals.

Michelle and I will be in touch with John and Alex via phone, but we will have limited access to the internet, a much needed break from technology :)

Updates to come upon our return back to Marrakesh...

Posted by Kempie at 10:18 AM | Permalink | Comments (0)

I arrived this morning to join the Morocco group for the next three weeks.

This morning I got to our riad in Marrakech just as the students were finishing their language lessons in Tasheilheit (one of the tribal languages spoken in the High Atlas mountains) where we will be going tomorrow for our trek and village experiences for the next six days.

All seemed in good spirits as we went out for lunch at the Earth Cafe-perhaps the only vegetarian restaurant in the city. The owner invited us to visit his farm outside the city someday- he raises animals and vegetables there which later end up at the Earth Cafe. Perhaps future Global LAB groups can have a taste of a local agricultural experience there.

In the afternoon after some time for shopping for snacks and other items for the trek, we met for presentations of mini-ISPs. People's projects were quite varied, including the following: Isabella- traditional Berber dance (with a dance presentation that Kempie and our friend Aisha joined in on). Tessa and Coley- herbalogy (including a sample of a special healthful tea they ground for us). Ben talked about development issues in Marrekech. Catherine told us about her work exploring henna, Ella read and wrote about Marrekech, telling us both about existing literature she encountered and some personal vignettes she is working on. Abby showed some beautiful photos she has taken, and Jenny this evening will give a short demonstration of the stringed native instrument she has been studying.

The group seems to have very much enjoyed their time in Marrekech but all are excited to be heading out for out trek and time in the mountains as well.

Tomorrow morning we will say our goodbyes to Sammer who will be returning to the US on Tuesday as we head deeper into our mountain adventures.

It is a joy and honor to get to join this fine group of young people- I am very much looking forward to our shared experiences together in the weeks to come.

Posted by Kempie at 08:05 PM | Permalink | Comments (1)

I have countless times heard Moroccans describe Islam as different from other monotheistic religions in that Islam is a religion which is intrinsically woven with daily life. Such a concept seems hardly unique--Christianity and Judaism are just as much pious lifestyles as is Islam; after all, Christians go to sunday school, and Jews eat Kosher...But after being in Morocco just over a month, the saturated permeance of Islam in each and every facet of Moroccans' lives is undeniable: Moroccan dress; as one of our lecturers mentioned, in Islam, one's outward appearance is a reflection of one's inward devotion to Allah, the call to prayer which becomes a timekeeping melody issued five times daily, the Islamic geometric art adorning all from decrepit houses to palaces and mosques, and the colloquial phrase "In Shah Allah", or "God willing".
However, there is no fair translation of the worn in phrase that is peppered into virtually every daily exchange made with a Moroccan. In America, the phrase "God willing" would fail not only because of the fact that not every American believes that there is a God, but more importantly, because no exceptions are made for variations in one's tentative schedule. And I use the word tentative deliberately, because one can only be in control of one's life to a certain extent. So many uncontrollable factors influence everything that happens in a day, that it's hardly fair to hold yourself so stiffly to a plan. Whether it be Allah, a slow car in front of you, an unexpected case of the flu, or anything else which may pop up to threaten your punctuality, there are loose ends in your plan which are always waiting to go astray. But in in western culture, if you miss an appointment, you miss an appointment. There's no room for explanation or lenience. Point blank, the issue is that YOU should have been more prepared.
In Morocco, I once returned to my homestay house an hour late after our medina restoration project ran over. My family and I had had plans to visit the public baths called Hammams at twelve, and there i was, heaving from having sprinted through the medina streets in an effort to make my appointment, so to speak. I burst in with a pained
"sooorry!
wewereworkingonamedinaprojectanditranoverandiranhomeihopeiamnottoolateandwecanstillgotothehammam...".
My host family sister proceeded to look at me with an expression of surprise and countered with,
"Not at all a problem! Lets eat a little something first and then we'll go!"
I shouldn't have been surprised by this customary response to lateness after having been held up by an hour by my calligraphy teacher, stood up by my belly dance teacher, and spent time with Moroccans who seem to be by no means in a hurry. Moroccans have accepted the fact that situations arise which result in their accepting everything granted that "god [is] willing". This isn't to say that Moroccans take no responsibility for their own plans or drift along in life with nothing defined. They just have a more tolerable attitude towards the inevitable ebb and flow of life, a mindset I think Americans could borrow a bit of.

Posted by Isabella at 08:06 PM | Permalink | Comments (2)

The group has spent the past couple of days learning Tachelheit, the Amazigh (the indigenous people of Morocco) dialect spoken in Southern Morocco, and participating in engaging lectures on Sufism and the Tradition of Storytelling. We also had an opportunity to exchange stories and experiences with some SIT Study Abroad students, who are currently studying in Rabat. We all enjoyed a Sufi dhikr afterwards. A dhikr involves the chanting and invocation of Allah in an a capella style. It was beautiful experience! The students have also been engaging in their Marrakesh ISP activities. Tomorrow, they will conclude their research and present what they have learned on Saturday.

A glimpse of the Sufi dhkir - truly a spiritual experience!

Posted by Kempie at 11:42 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

The group at Riad Arabesca

Learning about the Marrakesh souk carpet auction

Exploring the exotic landscape of the Jardin Majorelle

Jenny learns to play the gimbri

Isabella learns some Amazigh dances moves from the Middle Atlas

The group gets all decked out in Morocco fashion

The group at the Medrasa Ben Youseff

Learning about the dyeing process in the Marrakesh souk

Recycled tires can make for some comfortable chairs

Isabella, Ben, Coley, and Ella recreate a scene from Hitchcock's "The Man Who Knew Too Much"

Feeling the rhythms of Gnawa music

The girls model a pair of one-size-fits-all Moroccan bloomers

Posted by Kempie at 11:50 AM | Permalink | Comments (0)

The students began their Marrakesh ISPs today. Some danced and learned to play new musical instruments, others captured the magic of Djem El Fna through photography and writing, while others searched for herbal remedies for everything from a common cold to asthma from local herbalists.

Tomorrow the group will enjoy a day of exploration of the French section/New City of Marrakesh, Gueliz, named after a Arabized name for the French word for church, igelese (sp?). We will also enjoy a nice stroll through Jardin Marjorelle, followed by a visit to the local hamman (public bathes) and some henna in the evening.

Posted by Kempie at 11:58 PM | Permalink | Comments (1)

A couple of days ago, we left the rainy and slightly cold Fes for a warmer, sunnier Marrakesh. Since we have arrived, we have been learning the ropes of the city by exploring historic monuments like the Koutba, the Marrakesh Museum, the Ben Youseff Medrasa, and the Dar Si Said Museum in addition to adventuring through the souks with a mix of traditional crafts and the latest Moroccan fashion trends. Gita, our local expert - a wonderful Swedish women who has been studying and learning about Moroccan and Marrakeshi culture for over 40 years - has been sharing some fascinating knowledge with the group.

We have been spending our evenings in the Djem El Fna, a fantastical square filled with hundreds of food stalls, musicians, acrobats, snake charmers, and even male belly dancers (dressed as women).

The students will begin their mini-ISPs tomorrow. Some will explore the same topics they did in Fes, others will explore new topics of interest. More to come....(including pictures)

Posted by Kempie at 07:02 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Ive been scolded into typing with capitals but Ill never find the apostrophe.
We are in the red city or the Rose city or the Pink city because of the gay population here. My family was pretty confused by the whole idea of homosexuality- it is not a heard of thing in Morocco. And lesbians are non existant.
I was sad to leave my family and that comfort zone but this city is beautiful and there are motorbikes everywhere about to kill us but Im learning to get out of the way quickly. There are so many tourists! I see as many white chubby faces as I see Moroccans.
Our riad is excellent. Ella and I have the honeymoon suite and the owner Gita is a Swedish dancer who will be very helpful in navigating and shopping and knowing whats what.
ISPs start soon here and Im learning a three stringed guitar used in Gnawa music.
Kinda miss you guys at home but you probably will miss me when your CANADIAN THANKSGIVING table is one person short
have a good one!

Posted by Jenny at 05:03 PM | Permalink | Comments (1)

Sammer has emailed, signaling the group's arrival in "The Pearl of the South", Marrakech (or Marrakesh). A new phase of exploration and experience has begun. Check back later for more.

Alex

Posted by Alex Safos at 10:40 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Tonight we wrapped up our first phase in Fes with a homestay party. Sweets, laughter, and a fantastic thank you speech in darija were enjoyed by all!

We also had a lecture on Amazigh Identity and learned a bit about the different indigenous groups in Morocco which we will encounter along our travels for the next month.

So we stay b'slama to Fes for now and head into new regions of Morocco yet unseen by our eyes (except mine and Sammer's, of course).

Pictures to come...

Posted by Kempie at 10:36 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

One of the staples for the Eid holiday as I noticed was lots of sweets Here is an especially popular recipe as witnessed by me.

To begin, set out a large ceramic bowl (about 2ft diameter) on the floor of your foreign host student's room at about 9 o'clock at night when the student is getting ready for bed.
Mix in the bowl:
The zest of one lemon (extracted with a cheese grater)
8 eggs
One harira (soup) bowl of olive oil
One harira bowl of powdered sugar
3 packets of Alsa (yeast I believe)
5-6 harira bowls of coconut, or enough for the mixture to become doughlike
3 handfulls of flour
2 small handfulls of rosewater
Mix dough well with right hand.
Form into balls and press in powdered sugar.
Bake in a random 3rd floor bedroom oven with no heat gauge for an ambiguous amount of time.
Have done this enough times that they all come out perfectly.
For best results, turn the TV to Arabic music videos and have your elderly host father quietly finger his rosary in the corner. Giving at least 2 of your 9 children motherly advice on a cell phone in very loud Arabic is also recommended.

Makes enough cookies to comprise an impressive display of sweets for several extended family members and one cookie-loving American.

Posted by Ella at 02:04 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Ramadan is over and things are running pretty smoothly in Fes. We have a packed week of enriching activities to engage in!

Yesterday, the group visited the home for street children, Ahli, where the students lead some arts activities as well as a game of musical chairs and freeze dance. In the next two days, the students will be wrapping up their ISPs for first phase of Fes and will resume their ISP activities when we return to Fes again in a month.

Tomorrow, we will participate in some medina restoration efforts in this UNESCO World Heritage Site. We will learn about the traditional materials and processes of restoring this important cultural and historical city.

Teamwork! Making lime mortar

Coley re-learns the fine art of hammering...and he's still got all of his fingers - alhamdoulilah!

In the evening, the girls will participate in a henna workshop and learn this celebratory art form.

Isabella tests her new henna skills on Jenny

Sammer donates his body to the new hennayas (henna artists)

On Thursday, the students will have their final darija lesson of the first phase of Fes followed by a lecture on Amazigh (the indigenous people of Morocco) Identity. We will finish the night with a final party to celebrate our time in Fes and express our gratitude for the fantastic homestay families and their generous hospitality.

Posted by Kempie at 08:28 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

I am studying henna for my ISP and have had two sessions now -- each with a different instructor. During my first session, I observed the lady prepare the henna paste, and then she created elaborate henna designs on the tops and bottoms of both of my hands. Yesterday I learned from a lady who has been doing henna since 1984 and was very knowledgeable. I asked some general questions so I would have information to give for my ISP presentation later on in the program. The lady also had me practice some basic patterns and get the feel of using the syringe (that doesn't penetrate the skin!), which is used as the tool to make the henna designs -- all on pre-cut cardboard hands of course! On Wednesday there is a henna workshop open to all of the students, so I will get to continue practicing while the other students learn a little bit about henna. And then to continue my henna ISP in Marrakesh...

Posted by Catherine at 02:05 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

My first attempts at an ISP were a bit frustrating. I decided to study Islamic Architecture after long internal debates on what to focus on. The first week, I had a few unsuccessful walks around the Fes medina, hoping to simply absorb the architecture and meaning through a simple osmosis-like process. Unfortunately, this did not exactly happen as I found myself noticing very little as I wandered the narrow streets of the old city. All I saw were the tall, tannish walls with very small windows and almost no outside indication of what lies inside. Finally I met with Maryam, a Fassi woman with some knowledge of the architectural styles of Fes. As she talked to me about the buildings of Fes, my previous attempts of study seemed so obviously wrong. Islam is a very cohesive religion in my opinion – the same theories apply to the veiling of the women I see every day on the streets to the bland walls of the medina. Behind it all is the firm belief that the inside is the most important part of anything. Outside manifestations of Islam serve mainly to emphasize the inside growth that they represent, though the external processes are also important. By keeping the architecture of the medina so simple, there is no competition for superficial wealth and show. A palace and a simple dar look exactly the same from the outside. This proves a challenging study, but also forces me to look for the small indications of the Islamic architecture. One notices that the entrance to every house includes a sharp corner before opening into the courtyard – an important privacy measure. Also, many dars and ryads have open or half-open courtyards in the center of the house in order to have a more direct connection with Allah and the divine, as well as sometimes to collect water and allow more light into the house. After Maryam expressed the possibility of disguising me in a jellaba and headscarf and sneaking into a mosque to experience the architecture of this essential part to any Moroccan neighborhood, I am extremely excited for our next meeting.

Posted by Ella at 10:58 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

This weekend, the group took an excursion to some nearby Middle Atlas cities and towns. On Friday, we spent the morning at the Roman ruins of Volubilis, followed by a visit to the sacred city of Moulay Idriss, a site of pilgrimage for those Muslims who cannot make the journey to Mecca (and visit this site 5 times in their life instead).

At Moulay Idriss, a whitewashed picturesque city nestled in the hills, the group enjoyed a feast of a meal (with locally grown vegetables) at a fantastic viewpoint and following our digestion rest under olive trees, we toured the town with a local expert. We learned about the original Arab and Berber sides of the city, visited the local olive press (the olive oil here is supposed to be the best in Morocco), saw one of 5 round minarets in the world,

and stood at the gateway to the Mausoleum for Moulay Idriss.

Surrounding the mosque and mausoleum, candles and incense carrying the baraka (blessing) of this sacred place were sold.

On Friday evening, we arrived in Meknes and explored the nightlife of Place Haddim, a square with herbalists, storytellers, musicians, and a few camels and horses to have one's picture taken on (a smaller version of Marrakesh's Djemma El Fna). The next morning, we toured the medina of Meknes - visiting the beautiful Medrasa Bou Inani,

once an important university for Islamic learning with an impressive number of calligraphy styles represented in addition to some beautiful plaster carving and woodwork. We also visited the granneries of Moulay Ismail and learned about the powerful leader that successfully defended Morocco from the Ottomans.

We also enjoyed some more horse cart riding

and Sammer's reunion with his Moroccan friends from a carpet shop that he met 8 years ago.

This morning, we arrived back in Fes and the students jumped back into their ISPs - learning about henna, bellydancing, Islamic architecture, tilework and Moroccan literature.

The students will spend their last week in Fes (before we head to the South) savoring their time with homestay families, wrapping up their ISPs for the first phase of Fes, and further exploring the medina that has come to be their second home.

Posted by Kempie at 08:56 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

It's a bit difficult to learn a new style of dance when one is battling a high volume of the music coupled with a slight language handicap. However, when all else fails, a dancer uses her body as the main instrument in communication. I figured speaking wouldn't be necessary; a trained dancer such as myself could be able to observe the ways in which my teacher's body moved, and correspondingly mimic. I have realized however, that i am a slave to the mirror in such cases, in order to constantly check in that i am in fact moving with a vague resemblence to how i am supposed. Belly dance at Cafe Clock, however, consists of a tiled dining room floor in which the benches are pushed against the walls in order to create a small open area...ie no mirror. But no worries, it's a lesson in trusting my physical intuition which i have never been that good at. I never realized how self conscious i am about the way i move, and Asmae, our teacher, is all about the feeling-the-music-and-going-with-it approach.

Another slight obstacle is that belly dancing is not a very intuitive dance-its all about illusions. And it's very very very difficult to decipher what part of Asmae's body is actually initiating the movement. But, I have become a bit of the master at the hip up hip down move i must say. And this other hoppy thing (that i question is belly dancing) and which basically involves a bucking bronco type weight shift thing.

Posted by Isabella at 02:26 PM | Permalink | Comments (1)

The group is in the midst of their latest weekend excursion, including: a guided tour of the Roman ruins of Volubilis; a visit to the adjacent, holy village of Moulay Idriss; and a stay in Meknes, another Moroccan Imperial City about an hour from Fes. Both Volubilis and Meknes (its "medina", specifically) are yet two more UNESCO World Heritage Sites, whereas Moulay Idriss is a major pilgrimage site--named after the founder of Fes who is a descendant of the Prophet Muhammed and is buried here.

More from Kempie, Sammer and the group shortly.

Alex

Posted by Alex Safos at 06:54 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Celebrate! Ramadan has finished, Sammer's a year older...time to eat some sweets!

Posted by Kempie at 09:06 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Just some of the activities we've been up to...

Catherine learns the fine artistry of henna from a local pro.

Ella and Abby test their tile chipping skills (it's much harder than it looks)

Ella learns the basic designs of woodpainting from a local artist

Posted by Kempie at 08:58 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Posted by Global LAB at 05:11 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

hi weve been asked to write a little about our isps and im super keen as usual. i had two music isp sessions which is basically this guy named something i forget right now talking to me about the diffrernt types of moroccan music and i take notes. super interesting and so far i have learnt about berber folklore and the diffferent trypes of that. hes rezally knowledgable.
its eid right noaw so everyone is eating tons of yu,,y sugary things. im stuffed. our actual dinner tonight was sugary couscous. that was awesome. also there are sixteen people in my house all day long and being a young person i musplay with the five kids for hours upon hours or else i get pulled apart and scolded. i gave them lollipops today and i erzally regret that as they keep asking me for more and im afraid they will break into myu room now.
but i get to rest if i can escape to the roof .
i miss my guitar and all you canadians
signin off

Posted by Jenny at 11:23 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

So as group writer during the weekend in Asilah I should have gotte this up a little quicker but better late than never right? After a long train ride crammed "hogwarts style" into the cabin of a train we arrived in Asilah. I couldnt have been happier to see the water and breath air that didnt smell of ... well whatever the Fes streets smell of. Not that the smells of Fes arent lovely too. Jenny and I spent an evening battling bugs but for the beach day that followed it was worth it. When Kempie told us our rides would be outside I think we all expected taxis but instead we were created with horsecarts. If you want to ride in style Id suggest calling these guys. The beach itself was gorgeous and thankfully uncrowded. We all dropped our stuff and ran straight for the waves. By the end of the day we were all tired and salty which was the perfect excuse for the girls to take a trip to the hammam. With that and dinner our weekend in Asilah came to and end. And Sunday we all found ourselves back in Fes ready for fatour with our homestay families.

Posted by Abby at 04:58 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

There are only a couple of days left in Ramadan. The silence at 6pm will soon be lost to the normal hustle and bustle of daily life in Fes.

We had a lovely, relaxing weekend in Asilah. Highlights included a horse cart ride to Paradise Beach, lots of swimming in the chilly, but manageable Atlantic waters, and a hammam (public bath) trip for the ladies. We returned to Fes on Sunday and spent Sunday night jamming along to the sounds of Gnawa music

and the girls got some henna done (a tradition for all young girls on the 27th day of Ramadan - even though we are not exactly young girls we decided to join in the fun).

This week, the students will continue their darija lessons, ISP activities, and attend a lecture on Islam. As soon as the Moroccans see the moon on Tuesday or Wednesday evening (the end of Ramadan is determined by the lunar Islamic calendar), the party will begin. Everyone young and old will dress up in their finest attire and feast for a couple of days. It will be quite an experience for all of the students! They will be spending these days with their homestay families.

Posted by Kempie at 10:06 PM | Permalink | Comments (1)

The group has returned to its Fes base after a couple of days in Asilah. Check back shortly for any musings and photos from the weekend.

Alex

Posted by Alex Safos at 06:56 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Here we are, living "Where the sun sets"... Morocco. We have been busy in Fes, each student learning of things like henna, belly dancing, Darija, music, cooking, herbs and spices, history, culture, and more.

It was a special time for us this Saturday, to be playing in the Atlantic Ocean, clear cold water. Our home coast of the U.S. just across the big pond. North Carolina, Virginia, Maryland... right over there. The students do well looking over themselves, as they alternate the roles every three days of group leader, educator, writer, and safety. Our "Group leader" helps the group achieve common goals, navigating to a location, delegating shoppers for group food, facilitating group decisions. Our "Educator" teaches us two new Darija words a day along with a short educational lesson. Our "Writer" keeps up the blogging, and our "Safety" does what he/she can to look out for the others, reminding of sunscreen, water, keeping together as we walk.

Laughter is shared often within our group, and when not, smiling has usually taken its place. It's easy to keep care over them in the evenings while we are traveling as a group, I hear their laughter late into the night as I fall asleep. "You must live between the Earth and the heavens, not entirely in one or the other." -Hamidoe, Moroccan tour guide.

Sammer

Posted by Aaron Bos-Lun at 04:18 AM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Sammer left a message noting the group's safe arrival in the Atlantic coast village of Asilah. With a forecast of sun and a high of 78F tomorrow, the beach should beckon. Ideal medina-wandering weather too.

Alex

Posted by Alex Safos at 08:56 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Playing games with the street children at Ahli

Exploring creativity & calligraphy

Visiting a local artist who draws inspiration from the urban landscape of Fes...

...And his palace

Posted by Kempie at 11:17 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

After only four days here in Fes, we have seen many amazing things. However, three things which stick out in my mind as themes are laughter, love, and massive amounts of mint tea and sweets (which will surely result in many cavities and large dentists' bills).

I have a wonderful homestay. Currently only the mother and five year old daughter are in Fes, and on the first day of my homestay, I was blown away by the amount of affection the mother shows the daughter. She seemed so happy to see the daughter when she returned home from school and spent a good five to ten minutes hugging, kissing, and playing with her, welcoming her home. Also striking is how kind my homestay mother and sister have been to me. I have done homestays in different countries before, but never have I been taken in with such open arms and been made to feel like such a part of the family. Even children on the street take pleasure in helping me find my way around the medina.

During these days in Fes, laughter has been an invaluable way to relieve stress and feel rejuvenated after a long, tiring day. I can't remember having laughed so hard and so often as in the few days I have spent with my homestay mother and sister (and extended family). We laugh at everything – me trying to communicate, random things on the television, my homestay sister being silly, me getting a word or phrase in darija correct...Two nights ago we went to break the fast with my homestay mother's brother, wife, and two year old daughter. For some reason only known to her, the two year old decided to lift up her skirt and show us that there was nothing underneath. As fate had it, I decided to look in that direction and must have let out some remark of surprise because my homestay mother looked at me, then at the two year old, and then collapsed into my lap, laughing. Soon all of us (minus the two year old) were laughing; even my young homestay sister decided to join in for the fun of it.

I have also been brushing my teeth twice as much as I do in the United States. I definitely inherited a sweet tooth and try to sneak sweets all the time at home. However, I think this is the first time I have wished that I wasn't consuming as many sweets! With an average of at least three cups a day of sugar-filled mint tea, many honey “crepes”, and the occasional deep-fried pastry dripping with syrup, I am wearing out my tooth brushes!

We at home in the United States (and perhaps in Canada too) could take a lesson from the Moroccans. With more laughter, love, and perhaps a few more sweets, life proves a lot easier.

Posted by Catherine at 11:14 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

After the usual morning Darija class and group meeting at Batha Square in the Medina, I decided to take another shot at my independent project - studying the architecture of Fes. Yesterday's attempt with the "Bab to Bab" (Door to Door) book was a bit of a failure...I ended up completely losing track of my path and being followed home by a persistent man who insisted he could show me the way to where I wanted to go. At least I showed him that I knew what I was doing even if I did not convince myself quite so well.

Leaving the group at Batha, I borrowed Kempie's Fes book and rode off in a Petit Taxi for the Mellah, or former Jewish area of Fes el-Jdid. The cab driver initially did not understand my request, but about halfway through the ride exclaimed "Ah! MellaH!" Apparently saying Mella is not close enough...? I once prided myself on my sense of direction, but Fes has me completely stumped. I entered the Mellah, passing the golden doors of the Royal Palace, and was immediately lost again. None of the landmarks in the book were clear at all, but I walked along the narrow street looking at the many balconies of this area - something you will not find in the Medina. The medieval castle-like ramparts and gates were very beautiful, but I conceded that I was not going to find any serious landmarks. Hoping for better luck in another entirely new part of the city, I hopped in another taxi to Bab Ftouh in Al-Andalous, the part of the city where in the 9th century Spanish Muslims settled.

Across the street from the bab I was in complete awe of the Bab Ftouh Cemetary. From afar, the white headstones of this enormous cemetary on a hill almost mirror the light colored buildings of the Fes medina on the hill.
Finally I entered Bab Ftouh and took a seat on a wall to orient myself - hoping for a more successful walk to the Al-Andalous Mosque (supposedly in the middle of Al-Andalous) and the nearby theological colleges, or medersas. My planning was soon interrupted my three pre-teen girls. They were SO ANNOYING. It is hard to tell what approach to take with these girls - do I humor them and answer their French/DArija mix questions? Do I harshly tell them to go away? Do I ignore them completely? The only conclusion I've come to is that a combination of the three does not work well. Once the only things they had left to say involved asking me for a pen or money I left. Wandering through the food market I really had no agenda. I felt frustrated, hungry, hot, annoyed, and useless. My independent project was a complete waste of time. I couldn't go home because I had told my host mother that I wouldn't be back for another 4 hours.

Turning off the main market street, I found a small alleyway where I could collect my thoughts and finally eat my lunch without offending the masses fasting for Ramadan. I had barely opened my bag when I noticed a Moroccan woman of about 25 looking at me while gathering water from her neighborhood fountain. She looked back a few times and finally approached me. Are you eating? she motioned. Her simple manner was not threatening, but I was still afraid I was offending her. She continued this motion and then grabbed my hand and started leading me away. I followed, hoping for the best. Across the street, through a doorway, up some stairs, down an open hallway. We passed several clotheslines before she turned into a cloth covered door. The small room contained two beds, a dresser, a TV, and a man who I assume was her brother. She motioned for me to sit down, turned on the TV, and left the room. Returning shortly, she handed me a glass of fruit juice and motioned for me to eat. I was and am still shocked. This extent of hospitality is unheard of in American culture. Inviting a random stranger in off the street to eat in your bedroom? It just doesnt happen. I ate my egg sandwich, watched a few minutes of a random American movie with arabic subtitles on TV, exchanged a few words with the brother, and left. It was a simple exchange, but it made all the difference in my day. Even if I did not find the "architecturally and culturally significant medersas" as I had hoped, the day was not a waste because I was exposed to another small facet of a few Moroccans' lives.

This rambling account is simply my attempt to document an awesome experience before the details leave my mind! These are the types of stories I had always heard of coming from Morocco - the amazing generosity and kindness to anyone and everyone is just inspiring. A couple of days ago Kempie had a similar contrast of experiences that often characterizes a visit to Morocco - a random man on a bike shouted ever English obscenity he knew at her, but minutes later she met an old acquaintance who insisted on her coming to tea at his house. This is really an inspiring culture, and I can't wait to delve even deeper into it!

-Ella (from Jenny's account, mine isnt working)

Posted by Jenny at 03:45 PM | Permalink | Comments (3)

some girls were hissing at me and it might have been a blessing because my hair is wet or quite literally a hiss. I started my ISP today chatting with a man about moroccan literature. he doesnt speak much english but hes nice and i learned some random facts that may or may not have been interpreted differently because of the lan,guage barrier. the sun is hot here and theres a lizard on my ceiling. this weekend is asilah and im so excioted because just when fes is getting old we are whisked away for an adventure.
a lot of people are surprised to learn im 15 and im kinda surprisd too beause im not crying for my mummy and im getting along quite well. i do miss the familiar comforts of home. i am proud of myself and the whole group because we are all a bit lost and unco,fortqble sometimes but pushin through.
i would like to live in a palace like the ne we visited today. dilapitated and covered in duck f*eathers.
farewell

Posted by Jenny at 05:46 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=539zCn8ySbc

Posted by Isabella at 03:23 PM | Permalink | Comments (1)

The female contingent of global lab fall 2008 [a much needed nickname is in the making]--ie teen girl squad-- was warned of the evidently accepted and commonplace custom of cat calling in the streets of Morocco. Honestly, i find it more amusing than anything else...the majority of the offenders are young boys with raging hormones, anywhere from 9 years old. It is definitely targeted at foreigners so in a sort of twisted way, it doesnt bother me so much because i know moroccan women are given more respect--its more of a novelty than anything else and being a foreigner, i cant expect too much [needless to say, id feel less forgiving if sweet nothings were hissed into my ear while i was travelling alone down the maze of the medina alone at sundown...] Namecalling in Morocco is like a paitime; Indeed i believe it deserves such credit because of the effort put into the various creative titles which teen girl squad has collectively been awarded:
flower girls
hot fever
teacher
and my favorite, hollywood honeys

Only when, the badgering borders on hostility do i cease to be amused and become genuinely angry. This has only happened once so far; unsurprisingly the culprits were little school boys. I was sitting in the Batha, or a greenish [?] patch of the medina, minding my own buisness, when a rock washurled into my leg. This was no accidental pebble blown my way. No! this was a good size rock lobbed into my thigh--a deliberate act of hostility against me as a female outsider. I was furious! times like this i wish i knew hardcore darija so i could bust it out on these troublesome bandits. Alas, a beastly facial expression and staredown sufficed for that moment.
For now, however, expect me to relay only amusing marketplace anecdotes.

Posted by Isabella at 03:10 PM | Permalink | Comments (3)

Isabella, Tessa, Abby, and Ella at Place Nejjarine

An example of the elaborate zellij (tile) work in the fountains of Fes

Coley makes a wish at the Moulay Idriss Mosque

Ben Prepares for the Sahara

The Chouwara Tanneries of Fes (notice the number of satellite dishes on the Fes rooftops in the distance)

Abby clears her sinuses at a local herbalist shop

The group learns the local process of weaving

Posted by Kempie at 10:36 PM | Permalink | Comments (4)

The students are on their ways to becoming experts of the Fes medina and it 9,000+ streets - I must say, I am impressed! Even though, I have spent quite a bit of time in Fes, the students are showing me shortcuts - there are some natural navigators in the group, not an easy task when presented with the characteristically confusing streets that lie within this walled city.

It seems the charm of Fes has enchanted everyone and the students are beginning to feel at home in the second home. Yesterday, we explored the heart of the medina with our resident guide, Hamidou, a knwoedlgable local who has a profound love for music (especially Cat Stevens/Yousif Islam). We enjoyed a couple of serenades throughout our tour. Some notable sites along the tour included visits to: the Kairouine Mosque-medrasa (not only the largest mosque in Africa, but also the oldest university in the world -disputed only by Al-Azahar Mosque in Cairo), the Moulay Idriss (founder of Fes) mosque, ancient funduqs (motel-type buildings for traders along the caravan route that have been converted into handicraft workshops today), a local herbalist selling everything from spices and perfumes to herbal medicinal remedies for the common cold and sexual enhancement potions, and the tanneries where we learned about (and smelled) the local process of tanning leather. We also learned about the rich artisan culture of Fes, stopping in several factories and workshops to observe skilled craftsman creating products in the same way that they have done for centuries. By the way, Fes recently celebrated its 12th Century anniversary - a history quite overwhelming to take in coming from a country that is only a couple of centuries old.

We also had the privilege of attending a Sa'ma Madih concert last night. Two men beautifully sang religious songs in celebration of Ramadan in acapello. It was truly a wonderful experience.

The students had their second darija (Moroccan Arabic) class today and they are picking up the language well. This afternoon, we volunteered at a local home for street children, Ahli. There the students joined in a game of soccer in addition to leading some games including "zip, zap, zop" which became "wahid, zjuez, teleta (1,2,3,)" and a game of "duck, duck, goose", which became "bacara, baraca, hmar (cow, cow, mule)." It was great fun!

Tomorrow most of the students will begin their Independent Study Projects (ISPs)...more details to come for the students regarding their topics of choice.

On Wednesday, we will visit a local artist and visit the historically important and breathtakingly beautiful Glauoi Palace that he resides in.

Posted by Kempie at 09:48 PM | Permalink | Comments (1)

After hiking up through the small streets of Akebt Sbaia, another part of the Medina, I finally reached the orange door of my family for the next 3 months or so, ALHumdulaH (thank god). "Je Conde" they call out, meaning who is it, then the door opens to reviel stairs that go up 4 stories. ( hug me hug me squeeze me squeeze me - this is the song curently playing they seem to be a fan of random slightly in appropriate american songs at unexpected times such as breakfast ) Anyways on the first floor lives an American fulbright scholar who speaks english, spanish, a little french, and is learning arabic but is mainly here for art. On the second floor there is the main room boardered with red couches and off the sides are two rooms that mirror each other completing the symmetrical style. One room is minne and the other is where my 17 year old sister, KRadya, sleeps. Then upstairs my mothers , Fatimas, sister and husband live. The house is build, as seems to be common here, up rather then out, the doors are large curtains creating a palace like atmosphere, and the many windows are bordered by intricate carvings.

In other news we went on a tour of part of the Medina, which is 56 square kilometers and has 9000 streets, in which we saw the extensive tannery eww (i might join you soon mille) and we also visited an herbaliste. There is so much going on here and almost everyone here is extremely nice and hospitable. The food is delicious although my family never believes i am full always insisting that I couli couli ( eat eat) and instead of salt and pepper they have salt and cummin on the table.

Posted by Tessa at 03:50 PM | Permalink | Comments (1)

so, weve started our homestay...my moroccan mama goes by haja laziza, and i go by zenib. the origin of this name is unclear; i know only "isabewa" isnt working for her, so she re-christened me. my first day at the house consisted of my repeating the few darija words i know over and over again (chokran, wacha, mezien, shubet) and being talked at in arabic as if i am a colprehensive speaker. in response, i was forced to repeat my arabic vocabulary (chokran, wacha; mezien, shubet) or stare dumbly with a stupid smile plastered on my face. i did give haja laziza a friendship bracelet however, which she seemed very impressed with. i neglected to explain that its not really considered an elaborate form of handiwork in the US as the art is reserved primarily for the under ten age bracket--some things are better left with a bit of mystery as ive begun to learn here....

Posted by Isabella at 02:42 PM | Permalink | Comments (3)

are whack
this is jenny; cant figure out how to do periods so semicolons will work; we are in fes and just started homestays yesterday; im living with our darija teacher, her mom and sis, a japanese girl here studying darija and an american girl here on a research grant; the house is lovely and i have a western toilet and my own room; so far we are just gettin to know eacxhother and the medina; this is a new area so i am very confused and it is super winding and small so far i can onlyh access ellas house confidently; we all live within ,aybe 15 minutes which is nice;
yesterday i was invited to go to a magic party night at the cafe clock; a cafe frequented by westerners but i didnt go because i was tired so instead my sister fatima zohra and i went and visited everyone because we were all sort of awkward and alone
im excited to stqrt isp soon and get to know the area
shout out to india

Posted by Jenny at 01:24 PM | Permalink | Comments (1)

Our days have been busy ever since we arrived in Morocco. During our two day stay in Casa, the group visited the third largest mosque in the world, Hassan II Mosque, and the only Jewish Museum in the Arab world. Additionally, we explored pressing social issues in Morocco by visiting Solidarite Feminine, an organization that provides support for single mothers, and Bayti, a home for street children. Both were informative and inspiring visits.

We arrived in Fes three days ago and have been exploring medina life thus far - wandering the narrow alleyways and sampling some local delicacies. Ramadan always presents a unique silence in the medina (during certain hours) - it is truly an interesting time to experience Fes! Life usually returns to its normal bustle after everyone has broken their fast for the day.

In other exciting news, the students are picking up darija (Moroccan Arabic) quite well for only having been in country less than a week. They have had one official darija lesson and it seems that all the students are eager to communicate. Communicating, mostly non-verbally and some verbally, is what the students are doing now as they are embracing their first day with their homestay families. This morning, Sammer, Zineb (Global LAB's in-country coordinator) and I dropped all of the students off with their new families - we look forward to hearing some fun and entertaining stories tomorrow about the first 24 hours. All of the families are thrilled to be sharing their home, culture, language, cuisine, and hospitality among other things with their homestay students. Now that the students are in homestays, the pace of life will slow down a bit. Ramadan is a time for contemplation, prayer, rest, and visiting with one's family.

Tomorrow the group will attend a lecture on Ramadan and learn more about the essential and spiritual aspect of this practice. On Sunday, we will have an official tour of the ancient medina and be exposed to some insider knowledge of this charming city.

More to come...

Posted by Kempie at 04:57 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Or in other words peace be upon you. We've had an eventful first few days in Morocco starting with a two day stint in Casablanca. Casablanca boasted a strong western influence and enough tourist attractions to keep the group busy from early in the morning until a much needed bedtime. The train ride to Fez was useful because it gave the group the opportunity to spend time a good chunk of the day getting to know each other. We arrived in Fes around midday and were given the oppor to explore the Medina at length under the guidance of Kempe and Sammer. The exploration of this foreign country so far has been both educational, rewarding, and fun. Bsalama or Goodbye.

Posted by Ben at 04:00 PM | Permalink | Comments (1)

Kempie called to let me know the group has arrived safely in Fes. "Darija" (Moroccan dialect) language classes begin tomorrow, and all are excited about their imminent cultural immersion in this special city. Home-stays on-deck as well. More to come.

Alex

Posted by Alex Safos at 12:11 AM | Permalink | Comments (0)

The group in front of the grandeur of the Hassan II Mosque

Tessa capturing the beauty of the Hassan II Mosque

The retractable roof of Hassan II Mosque opens to reveal some glorious skies.

The group in front of a train car converted into a computer lab at Bayti, an organization supporting street children in Casa.

Posted by Kempie at 10:19 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

The way it happened was anticlimactic really. I mean, Kempie gave us a bit of a debriefing about the basics of relieving oneself through the “squat method”, however, I had expected a more specific lesson to occur before it was necessary for me to be a guinea pig. But caffeine isn't patient, and conditions occurred which were beyond my control. In short, I found myself in a cafe and in need of using the facilities. Other than a questionable boy guarding the external of the “washroom” (shoutout to canada), and the dilemma of shoes on/shoes off while in the squatter, it was a great success. Needless to say, I think I'll stick to western toilets for the time being. Assuming there's any toilet paper.

On another note, Team Girl Squad back in force (including the-ugly-one), we had the great fortune to listen to an unusual song choice with Mustapha, gift of Ziggy Marley, and the Ninja dominates.

Posted by Isabella at 12:48 AM | Permalink | Comments (1)

I spoke with Kempie and the group has arrived safe and sound in Casablanca. They were touring the Casa medina (old city) and about to sample their first "mmllawi", or Moroccan crepe. More direct from the source(s) soon.

Alex

Posted by Alex Safos at 07:42 PM | Permalink | Comments (1)

A van to a bus to a train to a plane and they are off, following a terrific group orientation at Cross Roads Retreat Center. Stay tuned for updates from Morocco here on the group blog.

Posted by Global LAB at 12:13 AM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Coming together in the yurt for a group council, Morocco and India students share their hopes and concerns and excitement about the upcoming international adventure.

Posted by Global LAB at 03:45 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Isabella and Jake seeking balance

Tracy and Kempie at peak performance

Posted by Global LAB at 05:05 AM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Hi Mom,

Camp is good. Send more gummy bears.

We have been playing get-to-know-you games and mingling. Most of the day is full of activities that involve the whole group.

Don't judge us--this is just a test of the blogging system. Please stand by.

We're pumped. And talkative.

Peace be upon you,

The Morocco 10

Posted by Global LAB at 04:05 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

John, Justin, Harrison, Galen, Kempie, Sharon, Sammer, Alex, Tracy

We are eagerly awaiting the India and Morocco semester students arrival later today after having enjoyed a productive and fun staff retreat here at Cross Roads.

After all the students have arrived here we'll post another message. If anyone needs to contact us before flight departures on Sunday, please call Global LAB's 800 number.

Here's to a safe and rewarding cross-cultural adventure in the months ahead.

Global LAB Program Directors

Posted by Global LAB at 03:29 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Hi everybody, this is Sammer. I am looking forward to meeting you all, and sharing three months of our lives together. The spirit of adventure is high for our journey in Morocco, our journeys together, and our journeys within. I can’t wait to learn of the wonderfulness about each one of you, while anticipating all the treasured unique experiences and memories that are soon to come.

Continue reading "Introduction from Sammer, Co-Program Director" »

Posted by Aaron Bos-Lun at 03:50 AM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Some students have expressed interest in earning college credit for their semester with Global LAB. This is possible through a partnership with Seattle Central Community College (SCCC). Students can sign on for 1-3 courses which mesh with the planned itineraries for each program. They complete a variety of written and hourly requirements for each course and return their assignments to a professor in the US. The financing of this program is independent of Global LAB and is coordinated directly between program participants and the college. If you might be interested in doing this please follow the five-step instructions listed below:

1) Go to: www.seattlecentral.edu/coop
2) Click on travel, language study
3) Click on registration
4) Print out the 3 page registration form
5) Mail in or fax the completed form, along with check (or credit card
info) for $89 per credit hour

Possible courses include:

• ITL 197: INTERNATIONAL COOPERATIVE EDUCATION (5 credits)
Assignments relate to 66 hours of community service and 40 hours of language

• EDU 291: USING THE WORLD AS A CLASSROOM (5 credits)
Assignments include a daily journal, ethnographic paper, two critical thinking assignments (based on program-relevant articles), and one related project

• SSC 297: TRAVEL/STUDY EXPERIENCE (10 credits)
Assignments include a daily journal, three research papers relating to service and/or your Independent Service Project, and four critical thinking papers (based on program-relevant articles)

Posted by Aaron Bos-Lun at 05:51 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Hi everyone. I hope you are getting excited about our upcoming journey together! In the next few weeks I encourage you to explore what particularly interests you about Morocco. What would you like to study or explore further while in Morocco?

Continue reading "Independent Study Project (ISP) Possibilities" »

Posted by Aaron Bos-Lun at 04:31 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Follows is a list of content in various media that will provide useful background for our upcoming tour and help contextualize your experiences. If time allows, borrow or purchase a few of these titles before your travels--try to coordinate with fellow travelers so these may be shared during the tour. Many libraries are likely to carry some of these as well. A short-list of highly recommended readings is asterisked (*).

General / Travel Guides

*Lonely Planet Guide to Morocco OR *The Rough Guide to Morocco

History (Arab, North African, Moroccan, and Moorish)

A History of the Arab Peoples, Albert Hourani (Harvard University Press, 2003). Emeritus Fellow at St. Anthony's College in Oxford, Hourani begins with Islam's rise in the 7th century and carries the rich and imposing story of Arab civilization to the late 1980s. In broad, sweeping strokes, Hourani moves easily from mosque to marketplace, from sultan to imam, from nomad to city-dweller, from Mohammed to Anwar Sadat. He focuses on the Ottoman Empire and on the European colonialism that followed, and concludes with a discussion of the modern resurgence of Islam that offers hope to thousands of Muslims and appears so threatening to Westerners.

Continue reading "Recommended Reading List – Morocco Semester Program" »

Posted by Aaron Bos-Lun at 04:12 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Please note: This itinerary is planned months in advance and may change due to group interest, health and safety concerns, or other factors beyond the control of Global LAB.

United States:

Sept. 12 - 14: Group orientation at Cross Roads, Hunterdon County, NJ

Morocco:

Sept. 14 - 15: Flight – JFK to Casablanca

Sept. 15 - 16: Casablanca
In country orientation, visits to key cultural and religious sites in the commercial capital of Morocco.

Continue reading "Morocco Fall Semester 2008 Daily Itinerary" »

Posted by Aaron Bos-Lun at 03:59 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

In the file below you will find frequently asked questions, as well as their answers, regarding the complimentary travel insurance Global LAB provides its participants.

Download file

Best,
Aaron

Posted by Aaron Bos-Lun at 02:25 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

All Global LAB participants are covered for medical and emergency evacuation insurance through a policy we purchase through CORE travel.

We provide each participant with the basic CORE coverage. If you wish to upgrade or select additional policies provided by CORE (such as lost luggage insurance or increased protection) please see the attached document, which can be found at the end of this post. If you have questions about upgrading, please contact the CORE administrator, Fiona Lally. Her contact information is available in the attached document, as well.

Download file

Michelle

Posted by Aaron Bos-Lun at 07:28 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Hi Morocco Semester Students!

Below is information about how to get from your domestic flight into the New York City area to the site of our Pre-Travel Orientation on September 12. We're aiming to have all of you meet up to catch the same train from either Newark Penn Station or New York Penn Station. Please book your flights in the morning so you can meet at New York Penn Station to catch the 2:32 NEC train to the Newark Penn Station train station or catch the 3pm train directly from Newark Penn Station to High Bridge, NJ (on the Raritan Valley Line). Please note that if you are flying into JFK, it may take you up to 2 hours to get to New York Penn Station.

Please let us know how you are getting to the retreat center on Friday September 12. You can email Tracy at tracy@global-lab.org with that information as soon as you know it.

For those of you who would like to drive to the center directly, please follow the directions from the retreat center's website.

If you're flying in to JFK, you need to catch the A Express subway train from the airport to New York Penn Station where you will purchase your train ticket for High Bridge, NJ on the Raritan Valley Line. You'll want to catch the 2:32 pm Northeast Corridor (NEC) Line train to Newark Penn Station. There, you will switch lines and take the 3:06 pm train to High Bridge which arrives at 4:27 pm. A Global LAB staff member will meet you at the High Bridge station and help you transfer to the retreat center.

If you're flying into Newark, make your way to Newark Penn Station where you will catch your train out to High Bridge, NJ on the Raritan Valley Line. You can purchase your ticket at Newark Liberty Airport, hop on the AirTrain, and arrive at Newark Penn Station to catch your train to High Bridge, NJ (the last stop). The train departs Newark Penn Station at 3:06 pm and arrives at High Bridge at 4:27 pm. A Global LAB staff member will meet you at the High Bridge station and help you transfer to the retreat center.

If you're flying in to LaGuardia, New York Penn Station where you will purchase your train ticket for High Bridge, NJ on the Raritan Valley Line. You'll want to catch the 2:32 pm Northeast Corridor (NEC) Line train to Newark Penn Station. There, you will switch lines and take the 3:06 pm train to High Bridge which arrives at 4:27 pm. A Global LAB staff member will meet you at the High Bridge station and help you transfer to the retreat center.

Also, for transit in New Jersey, this link might be helpful in terms of visualizing the path we'll all need to travel on Sunday the 14th: http://www.njtransit.com/pdf/rail/Rail_System_Map.pdf

Don't hesitate to get in touch with any questions you might have regarding this day full of travel before we all meet together at the retreat center!

More soon,

Kempie

Posted by Aaron Bos-Lun at 07:23 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Hello, my name is Ben. I'm from Cambridge, MA. I'm excited to be able to work, travel and get to know you all. This program will be able to give me an experience that I've never imagined. Hope to see you soon!

Posted by Aaron Bos-Lun at 07:23 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Greetings! I'm Isabella from Boston, Massachusetts. Born and bred within the same few city blocks, I am ready to explore Morocco and expand my worldview! I just graduated from a small all girls high school in the city, and spent
every waking hour of my middle/high school experience dancing ballet with the boston ballet school. I love theatre, singing, dabble in guitar, and appreciate the arts in general. I also love to travel and look forward to all the exciting doors global LAB opens up for me. Look forward to meeting all of you and starting the adventure!

Posted by Aaron Bos-Lun at 07:23 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Hi! I'm Ella from Minnesota, and I'm really excited for Morocco this fall! Coming from a small town outside of Minneapolis, I look forward to Morocco as a chance to expand and build upon my past travels to Switzerland, France, and Senegal, among others. Before heading to Georgetown University in September 2009, I hope to use this gap year as an opportunity for further language and culture study, as well as a chance to explore myself and my interests in a new environment. Some of my hobbies are going to concerts, traveling, and going out on the lakes in MN. I can't wait to meet everyone come September!

Thanks, Ella

Posted by Aaron Bos-Lun at 07:23 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Hey everyone,
This is Coley. I have just recently graduated high school a year early and am looking to travel the world. I have lived my whole life in Ithaca, NY, a place with many hippies who settled down after the 60's. I love music, every type except techno. I have two jobs this summer, one at Cornell's world-renowned Statler Hotel, and the other at a local winery. I look forward to meeting everyone soon.

Posted by Aaron Bos-Lun at 01:41 AM | Permalink | Comments (0)

A couple families have asked recently about the need or desirability of bringing cell phones or laptops to India and Morocco. Each program has a laptop which comes along and is kept by the leaders (but available to the students for blogging and sending photos). Each Global LAB leader also has a cell phone. We recommend that students do not bring along laptops or cell phones (or blackberries or anything along those lines). They are likely to get lost, broken or even stolen and computer labs and phone booth/stalls are widely available in most regions where our semester programs spend time.

If you have other questions do not hesitate to ask.

Michelle (Director of Admissions)
michelle@global-lab.org or 800 984 4522
PS- The CORE medical insurance program we provide for students is still working on upgrading its website-we'll have more information about that for students soon..

Posted by Aaron Bos-Lun at 11:08 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Michelle Bos-Lun, Director of Admissions will be out of the office from
July 9- July 16.

If you have questions about preparing for your Global LAB Fall Semester
program you can contact Alex Safos (Director of North African and Middle
Eastern Programs for Global LAB) at alex@global-lab.org

Posted by Aaron Bos-Lun at 09:54 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Hi my name is Jenny and I'm from Toronto, Canada. I'll be going into grade 11 next
year so that makes me the youngster of the group. I like to read, write, ski (in the
winter) and I also play the flute and guitar. Morocco has since this year sounded
kind of made up and magical but ever since I found out that programs offered it as a
destination it has become my number 1 desire to go there. Toronto is a fun place but
I just want to learn about other cultures and religions and explore countries and
gain life experience and my school isn't nearly enriching enough for that. I'm
nervous too because my French, though I've taken it in school for 8 years, isn't
very fluent and Arabic is entirely alien to me. Also curious about the usual
city-kid worries: bathrooms? showers? telephones?

So I'm 15 but I'll turn 16 on December 13th which I think is one of the last days of
the program. I'm a vegetarian (plus fish) and I like music and art and singing and
dancing and people. I'm pumped to meet everyone and I hope we can all obsess and
enthuse about Morocco together!

Posted by Aaron Bos-Lun at 12:45 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Hi I'm Abby, I'm 18 and I live in Winchester, MA. I've deferred my acceptance from Occidental College in LA for a year to come to Morocco with you guys. I love painting, photography, reading, writing, and I can't wait to meet all of you soon. It's going to be an amazing time.

Posted by Aaron Bos-Lun at 12:45 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Hey my name is Tessa and I'm from the small town of Roxbury, Connecticut. I am going into my senior year of high school and will be 17 in September. I like to bike, play tennis, ski and snowboard, play flute and saxophone, dance, laugh etc. For me the discovery of this program sprang from a week of procrastination. Last summer I traveled to Costa Rica to study sea turtles which was one of the best experiences and also led me to want to study abroad. So when I was putting off school work, as every diligent student does in the end of spring, I started
searching for places that I would like to study abroad in and programs that could take me there, which is when I came across this program. I can't wait to meet you all and among other things tackle arabic with you guys, which proves to be a challenging language as I discovered after being boggled by the Arabic for Dummies guide.

Posted by Aaron Bos-Lun at 12:45 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Hey, my name is Catherine, and I’m from Charleston, South Carolina. I’m really excited about going to Morocco and gaining an in-depth understanding of the Arabic world. I have had a very unconventional educational experience, which has led up to taking a second gap year so I can go to Morocco with you guys this fall. I have traveled a lot before, and going to Morocco will mark the sixth continent I have been to!

As far as hobbies go, I am an avid dancer. I have learned some ballroom and salsa, but am crazy about Lindy Hop and Balboa (types of swing dancing). I obviously love to travel, and enjoy writing, photography, and working with animals. I will be spending this summer dancing, looking at colleges for a year from this fall, participating in a NOLS horse packing trip and, of course, preparing for our coming adventure in Morocco. I can’t wait to meet all of you in September!

Posted by Aaron Bos-Lun at 12:44 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Flights for the Global LAB Fall Morocco program have been selected.

Students who have been accepted for the Fall Semester program to Morocco
should contact Sue Lai (sue@aviatravel.com) as soon as possible to book
their tickets with the group.

Posted by Aaron Bos-Lun at 12:40 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Hello Fall 08 Morocco Students-

Here are some important reminders for you:

1) Please send in a digital picture of yourself to go along with your self-introduction on the blog (email to aaron@global-lab.org)

2) Tuition balances are now due- if you have received an acceptance letter for our program, please send the balance due to our Woodside NY office immediately (if for some reason you need an extension contact michelle@global-lab.org)

3) Our pre-travel orientation will be held at a facility called Cross Roads Camp & Retreat Center
in New Jersey, not far from NYC. (We are renting this space but running our own program there) http://www.crossroadsretreat.com/

4) Get in the habit of checking the blog regularly as news of your program and pre-travel orientation plans will be posted here.

5) If you have any questions do not hesitate to contact one of us at Global LAB

michelle@global-lab.org (Director of Admissions),
alex@global-lab.org (Director of North African/Middle Eastern programs)
aaron@global-lab.org (Blog-poster/Admin Asst.)
Or give a call at 800 984 4522.

6) International Flights for your program will be selected next week. You will be notified on the blog when it is time to reserve your ticket.

Looking forward to meeting you all at pre-travel orientation on September 12!

Michelle

Posted by Aaron Bos-Lun at 09:17 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Asalamualaikum!

I’m thrilled to be a part of what will surely prove to be an amazing, challenging, and life-changing experience for you all! My life journey began much as yours will. I took a leap–decided there was something beyond (what I did not know)–and landed halfway across the world into something exotic, strange, frightening at times, but nonetheless exhilarating.

Morocco is an incredible place filled with vivid sounds, smells, tastes, and images that will stimulate you, drive your curiosity, and eventually all come together in a myriad of ways in your mind, body, and soul.

I know that, at this moment, you’re wondering what it is like and thus I have chosen to share a piece of my writing…a piece of my Moroccan experience…

Continue reading "Greetings from Kempie Blythe, Morocco Semester Director" »

Posted by Global LAB at 07:13 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Alex (at right) with Berber-Sahara specialist, Mohamed Soudani, in Marrakesh, Morocco

I was an anxious, rudderless college sophomore when he got the call. It was from Washington, DC—the State Department to be exact—and the beige rotary phone was ringing in a remote University of Texas at Austin professor’s office, some 1,500 miles plus away. This was 1986, and to me, 1,500 miles was a faraway place. Dr. James Bill politely and unpretentiously said, “Alex, have a seat. I need to take this call from State. They need some input—help, really—with their Iran policy.” Now this is pretty cool, I thought, eyes like saucers.

So this moment isn’t how I bit on the Morocco lure, but it represents my seminal brush with “The Middle East”. In reality, the geo-political conflicts drew me in. And how we, Americans, perceived—and misperceived—related—and unrelated—to this diverse and complex region rich in culture and history. For a 20 year old, the menu was overwhelming and fascinating at once: the US reaction to the Iranian Revolution; the intractable Arab and Palestinian conflict with Israel; the Iran-Iraq war; Qaddafi’s provocations in Libya; the civil war in Lebanon; the phenomenon of political Islam; how the Gulf States influenced the world economy—the challenges and kinetic energy seemed inexhaustible. I think you get the picture.

Continue reading "Welcome from Alex Safos, Director of Middle East and North Africa Programs" »

Posted by Global LAB at 07:11 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

THINK LIGHT! You will have to put whatever you bring onto the tops of buses and you will have to carry your bag for long distances. Here's a list of all that you will need to stay warm, dry, cool and comfortable. When packing, think layers and do your best to stay away from cotton (save T-shirts) because cotton takes a long time to dry. We recommend that you only bring what's listed here. The lighter you pack, the happier you--and the rest of the group--will be. There will be opportunities to do “self-service” laundry where we’ll be staying.

PLEASE NOTE: We strive to be model visitors, and therefore ask that students bring clothing that is lightweight and durable, but that also covers the body well, and looks respectable. Tie-dyed T-shirts, cut-off jeans, tight fitting leggings and tank tops are inappropriate, as they show disrespect for local cultures.

BAGS:
BACK PACK/SUITCASE: Your main container to store your things. Something light weight and durable is best. An internal frame backpack functions well for easy mobility.
DAY PACK: A book-bag or fanny-pack to use for daily excursions (to carry camera, water bottle, jacket, notebook, etc).

Continue reading "Packing Suggestions" »

Posted by Global LAB at 07:09 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Fall 2008 Morocco Semester Program Tuition: $11,845

Tuition includes residential pre-trip orientation in the US, preparatory and educational materials; dedicated student website for program communications and resources; all logistical facilitation; all hotels and guest houses; all meals; all domestic air fares/taxis/buses/trains/boats; museum, park and temple entrance fees; Global LAB faculty and instruction as well as local coordinators, cooks, porters; all program elements (independent study projects and apprenticeships, community service projects, home-stays, guest lectures, community support/charitable contributions).

Please note: Additional expenses not covered by Global LAB include r/t international airfare and costs of domestic travel to point of departure (NYC), inoculations, travel insurance and international medical and evacuation insurance; visa/passport processing fees; personal costs (laundry, phone calls/emails, souvenirs, etc.).

Semesters are open to those ages 17-21. While Global LAB semesters are geared toward interim or ‘gap’ year students, high school seniors as well as university students are welcome to apply. No language prerequisite is required.

Global LAB accepts applications on a rolling admissions basis, accepting qualified applicants until programs are full. Each program has a maximum of 12 participants and 3 Global LAB instructors. For this reason, we recommend candidates submit their applications as early as possible.

To begin the application process, print out the preliminary application and FAQ below:
* Application Form
* Dates & Details
* FAQ

Posted by Global LAB at 06:59 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Each time I go to a place I have not seen before, I hope it will be as different as possible from the places I already know.
–Paul Bowles, author of The Sheltering Sky, desert explorer, Morocco expatriate

A mere 17 miles south of Europe, across the Strait of Gibraltar, a very different experience awaits—an intriguing place of great contrast, color, culture, history, and hospitality: Morocco was the first nation to recognize the United States as an independent nation in 1777. The Moroccan-American Treaty of Friendship stands as the U.S.'s oldest non-broken friendship treaty. Signed by John Adams and Thomas Jefferson, it has been in continuous effect since 1783.

"Rooted in Africa, watered by Islam and rustled by the winds of Europe" in the words of its late King Hassan II, Morocco is a captivating and multifaceted country. If you are you motivated to learn firsthand about a culture rich in African, European, Arab, and Islamic traditions…if you are eager to explore an ecological diversity ranging from Atlantic Ocean to High Atlas Mountains to Mediterranean Coast to Saharan Desert…and if you desire close interaction with people of legendary hospitality, the Morocco semester will be intensely rewarding and enduring....

Audio from Elsewhere
“Sounds from the old city of Fes”
“Sounds from Marrakesh’s ‘Square of the Dead’”

Continue reading "Morocco Semester Overview: Fall 2008" »

Posted by Global LAB at 06:55 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)