Casablanca * Fes * Marrakech * Ouarzazate * The Draa Valley/Zagora * Erg Chicaga (The Sahara)

Each time I go to a place I have not seen before, I hope it will be as different as possible from the places I already know.- The late Paul Bowles, author of The Sheltering Sky, composer, traveler, Morocco expatriate

A mere 17 miles south of Europe, across the Strait of Gibraltar, a very different experience awaits--an intriguing place of great contrast, color, culture, history, and hospitality. The late King Hassan II described Morocco's complexity and essence best--"Rooted in Africa, watered by Islam and rustled by the winds of Europe"--and during our fortnight here, we will encounter this country's intriguing mélange. Through various guest lectures and language training, service learning, guided tours, cultural and spiritual performances, and intimate home-stay settings, we will uncover a layer of Morocco and Moroccans unrevealed to most visitors.

Our diverse journey will take us from the commercial pole of Casablanca with its striking modern-traditional contrasts and the third largest mosque in the world...to the soul of Fes and its inimitable medieval medina (old city)...from the Arab-African pulse of Marrakech, "The Rose City", and its hypnotic, carnivalesque Djemaa el Fna ("Square of the Dead")...to the fun-to-say town of Ouarzazate ("Where's az at") with its nearby stunning Kasbah of Ait Benhaddou (yet another UNESCO World Heritage Site, along with the medinas of Fes and Marrakech)...through the fantastic oases and spectacular geology of the Draa Valley...and finally, to the dramatic Sahara Desert with its shifting, hundreds-of-feet high dunes. And requisite camels, Bien sûr!

Since we'll be covering much ground in such a short period and since we'll be striving hard to explore, engage, decipher, and document, there is a Moroccan proverb to keep in mind: "Little by Little, the Camel goes into the Couscous." By travel's end, we'll only have tasted our first few grains. Spicy, sophisticated, and no doubt delicious, but much more will remain to savor in the future.

Posted by Alex Safos at 2:52 AM | Permalink

Mohamed Soudani, Lecturer on Berber-Sahara Culture, with Alex Safos, Global LAB Director

I was an anxious, rudderless college sophomore when he got the call. It was from Washington, DC—the State Department to be exact—and the beige rotary phone was ringing in a remote University of Texas at Austin professor’s office, some 1,500 miles plus away. This was 1986, and to me, 1,500 miles was a faraway place. Dr. James Bill politely and unpretentiously said, “Alex, have a seat. I need to take this call from State. They need some input—help, really—with their Iran policy.” Now this is pretty cool, I thought, eyes like saucers.

Continue reading "Welcome from Alex Safos, Director of Middle East & North Africa Programs" »

Posted by Alex Safos at 2:57 AM | Permalink

Follows is a list of content in various media that will provide useful background for your upcoming tour and help contextualize your experiences. If time allows, borrow or purchase a few of these titles before your travels--try to coordinate with fellow travelers so these may be shared during the tour. Many libraries are likely to carry some of these as well. A short-list of highly recommended readings is asterisked (*).

Continue reading "Recommended Multimedia Resources for Morocco Background" »

Posted by Alex Safos at 3:37 AM | Permalink

THINK LIGHT! You will have to put whatever you bring onto the tops of buses/taixs and you will have to carry your bag for long distances. Here's a list of all that you will need to stay warm, dry, cool and comfortable. When packing, think layers and do your best to stay away from cotton (save T-shirts) because cotton takes a long time to dry. We recommend that you only bring what's listed here. The lighter you pack, the happier you--and the rest of the group--will be. There will be opportunities to do "self-service" laundry where we'll be staying.

PLEASE NOTE: We strive to be model visitors, and therefore ask that students bring clothing that is lightweight and durable, but that also covers the body well, and looks respectable. Tie-dyed T-shirts, cut-off jeans, tight fitting leggings and tank tops are inappropriate, as they show disrespect for local cultures.

BAGS:
BACK PACK: Your main container to store your things. Something light weight and durable is best. An internal frame backpack functions well for easy mobility.
DAY PACK: For daily excursions (to carry camera, water bottle, jacket, notebook, etc).

Continue reading "Suggested Packing List" »

Posted by Alex Safos at 3:50 AM | Permalink

US -> Morocco
March 5
Depart JFK to Casablanca

Casablanca/Fes
March 6

Morning Arrival Casablanca

Instruction/Cultural Touring/Activities
o Transfer from Casablanca airport to Hassan II Mosque via private minibus or petit taxis
o Tour of Hassan II Mosque
o Lunch
o Tour of Jewish Museum, if time allows
o Transfer from Casablanca to Fes via private minibus, grand taxis, or train

Daily Instruction/Cultural Touring/Activities
o Fes pension check-in late afternoon
o Group Welcome Dinner in the medina

Continue reading "Program Itinerary" »

Posted by Alex Safos at 5:52 PM | Permalink

Wendy Levithan is very excited to be returning to Morocco for a second time with a group of Hotchkiss students under the guidance of Global LAB. The first trip, two years ago, was indescribable - her goal is to return this time able to better share the richness of the experience with friends and family. Wendy lives with her husband and their 6-year old son and their cat, Lilly. She loves to travel and to share smiles and laughter. In addition to teaching French, Wendy is interested in women's and girls' issues, enjoys moderate hikes, coffee in the morning, and tea at other times.

Continue reading "Wendy introduction (teacher)" »

Posted by Aaron Bos-Lun at 3:02 AM | Permalink

Sarinda Parsons Wilson has been teaching French at Hotchkiss for a good long time and loves travel with students in francophone environments. She is thrilled to be anticipating her second Global LAB trip to Morocco. She plans to travel with open eyes and ears and remembers well the calls to prayer from rooftop perches in Marrakech and Fés. (She looks forward to reconnecting with hosts in these cities and to checking in on the olive trees that the Hotchkiss group helped to plant in June of 2009 at Dar Taliba, a girls' school near Ourika.) Sarinda enjoys skiing and jogging, being slightly out of her comfort zone, having time to read, and sharing time with her husband and their two children.

Continue reading "Sarinda introduction (teacher)" »

Posted by Aaron Bos-Lun at 3:04 AM | Permalink

et salaam w aleikoum ("peace be upon you)!

My name is Alia and I'm so excited to be the program leader for our upcoming trip to Morocco. I've traveled, lived, and worked in Morocco for five years now, but somehow every time I return there, I have had new opportunities to learn, discover, and grow. I'm looking forward to this trip to not only share what I've learned over the years but to also learn new things beside you.

Despite all of my recent experience in Morocco, my first trip there still stands out vividly in my head-- much like this upcoming trip, I went there for a spring break trip in 2005 and was immediately swept up by the various sights, sounds, colors, and smells. I remember the feeling of excitement I had as I stepped off the ferry in Tangiers, the foreign sounds of guttural Arabic that washed over my head, the smells of delicious tagines that drifted through the streets, the feeling of vastness that I got when I traveled through the Moroccan countryside. More importantly, I remember leaving with more questions than answers and a burning desire to return.

Over the next year I began taking more classes in my International Relations major, specifically focusing on classes that covered the Middle East and North Africa. I also began to study Arabic in my free time; as I already spoke French and Spanish, this seemed like the logical next step.

When I finally made it back to Morocco, I was volunteering for a project in Rabat that fought against child labor through education. Little did I know that this would be the beginning of my extended relationship with the country. To make a long story short, I eventually started Kantara Crafts, a fair trade business importing carpets directly from women weavers in rural Morocco. It is this venture among other things that keep me coming back to a country that I've come to consider as my second home.

When it comes to Morocco, I've worn many hats-- I've been a tourist, I've worked in international development, I've studied the languages, and I've taught about the culture. This upcoming trip represents an opportunity to wear yet another hat...

So now, I've told you about why I chose Morocco-- I'm curious to hear about why YOU chose it. What do you know about it? Have you been there before? What are you most nervous about? What are you most excited about? What do you hope to accomplish?

If you have any questions as you prepare for this trip or just want to say hello, feel free to get in touch with me at alia.kate@gmail.com. In the meantime, happy packing et j'espère qu'on se verra bientôt!

Alia

Posted by Alex Safos at 10:55 PM | Permalink

Itzel is a junior at Hotchkiss. She came to Hotchkiss as a new incoming prep and loves being there. She currently lives in Brooklyn New York with her two brothers and both her parents. Itzel lived in Mexico for five years and so speaks Spanish really well. She decided to go on this trip because she has always secretly been obsessed with the Muslim culture, and so, now that the opportunity is available, she does not want to give it up. Itzel is really anxious to go on this trip and knows that she will love it!

Posted by Alex Safos at 10:56 PM | Permalink

Ruby is from Gaborone, Botswana and has lived there all of her life with her mother, father and younger brother. She came to Hotchkiss as a Post Graduate this year and really loves Hotchkiss. She loves travelling and seeing new places and is excited to be visiting Morocco so she can become more fluent in French, learn some Arabic and about the Muslim culture, and try some delicious new food. She cannot wait to spend her first spring break in Morocco.

Posted by Alex Safos at 10:57 PM | Permalink

Geordie is a new student to Hotchkiss in the class of 2014. It took Geordie very little time to realize that Hotchkiss was the perfect fit for him. He was born, raised, and currently lives in Montreal with his two older sisters and his parents. Geordie decided to travel with the school to Morocco to improve his French. He is thankful for the great opportunity and is excited to make the most of it!

Posted by Alex Safos at 11:00 PM | Permalink

Claire is a fifteen-year-old sophomore in her second year at Hotchkiss. Coming from residing in Newtown, Connecticut with her parents and older brother to boarding school, she enjoys the freedom of living amongst her teachers and peers. In her free time, Claire enjoys playing basketball, singing in the Hotchkiss gospel choir, and talking to her friends. Claire has been formally studying French since she was twelve years old, and is extremely excited to have the opportunity to finally visit a francophone country in Africa, study the Muslim culture, and try something completely different!

Posted by Alex Safos at 11:01 PM | Permalink

Mackenzie is a 2-year sophomore at Hotchkiss. She is from Fort Ann, a small town in Upstate New York. She has always loved languages, speaking both French and Spanish. She is excited because by the end of this 2-week trip, she will know some Arabic too. Her life goal is to visit all 7 continents and to live in a Francophone country.

Posted by Alex Safos at 11:02 PM | Permalink

Nick is a returning sophomore at Hotchkiss. He is currently in his second year of French, and his enjoyment of learning the language has development along with his enjoyment of being at Hotchkiss over the past two years. Though he grew up in Colorado, Nick now lives in Greenwich, Connecticut. Nick has also been interested in studying French because he his father served for the Peace Corps in Chad and Mali, where he learned French and his cousins live in France, so they are all fluent speakers of it. Nick went to Morocco two years ago (before he began taking French) with his family and climbed Mount Toubkal, and though he enjoyed the trip, he didn't see much of the native culture, or speak any of the country's native languages, so when he was given an opportunity to return, he accepted it excitedly.

Posted by Alex Safos at 11:03 PM | Permalink

Allison is a Junior at Hotchkiss. This is my first year here and it feels like I've been here since prep year. I live in Montreal with my parents and older brother and have spoken french my whole life. I want to go on this trip because I want to experience a lot of different cultures and would like to travel when I'm older, why not start now. I think this trip will be amazing and can't wait to be over there in the sandy desert.

Posted by Alex Safos at 11:05 PM | Permalink

My name is Bernard. I am 15 and I love playing lacrosse and football. I am very excited to be traveling to Morocco because I have never really traveled outside the country in the manner that we will be doing during the trip, and I think that it will be a cool, new experience.

Posted by Alex Safos at 11:10 PM | Permalink

Jessica is a lower mid (sophomore) at Hotchkiss. She is 15, and comes from Westchester County, New York. Jessica has taken french for three years, and really enjoys speaking and learning more of it. She chose to go on this trip because it seemed like an amazing opportunity, and she really wanted to experience another completely new culture, meanwhile practicing her French.

Posted by Alex Safos at 11:12 PM | Permalink

Laura is a new junior at Hotchkiss. She is from Romania and even though she had a little bit of trouble adapting to the American way of life at first, now she loves it there! She's crazy about learning as many foreign languages as possible, so the exposure to two foreign languages (Arabic and French) made the trip to Morocco extremely appealing to her! Laura is also very excited that she will have visited 2 continents in less than a year. She recently dyed her hair blue as a social experiment and is curios what Moroccan people are going to think of it.

Posted by Alex Safos at 3:09 AM | Permalink

Nera is currently a prep at Hotchkiss. She's from Shanghai, China. Living at Hotchkiss with those awesome people makes her not homesick at all though she does miss her parents sometimes. Nera decided to go to Morocco as she heard the introduction in the auditorium. She loves traveling and eating all kinds of food. Plus, she hasn't tried any Muslim food yet. Nera has the feeling that the trip is gonna be wonderful.

Posted by Alex Safos at 3:10 AM | Permalink

Please review the latest recommendations from the for CDC Morocco travelers, including vaccine guidance.

Posted by Alex Safos at 11:00 PM | Permalink

Forecasts for every major city on our itinerary (Fes, Marrakech, and Ouarzazate) can be found here on Weather Underground.

Posted by Alex Safos at 11:05 PM | Permalink

Audio from Elsewhere

Buckle up for Fes by checking out these amazing soundscapes of the medina produced by Jim Metzner's "Pulse of the Planet"...turn out the lights, turn up the volume, and whet your appetite for the old city of Fes....

Posted by Alex Safos at 11:10 PM | Permalink

Hopefully you had a chance to enjoy the incredible soundscape of Fes' medina referenced in a previous blog entry...so not to give Marrakech short-shrift, here's a little NPR audio dispatch to prepare you--well, that's incorrect--nothing prepares you--to stimulate your curiosity in Marrakech's famous and frenetic "Djemaa el Fna" ("Square of the Dead").

Posted by Alex Safos at 11:26 PM | Permalink

An interesting political science report published by The Potomac Institute for Policy Studies and The Conflict Management Program at SAIS, Why The Maghreb Matters: NorthAfricaPolicyPaper033109.pdf

Posted by Alex Safos at 11:34 PM | Permalink

Although a teaching tool and resource, An Introduction to Islam, published by Georgetown University's Center for Contemporary Arab Studies, is an excellent primer on this faith. Give it a read before the program begins and witness this religion in practice once you're in Morocco....

Posted by Alex Safos at 4:46 PM | Permalink

Morocco possesses an incredibly rich and diverse musical tradition, including Arab, Moorish, European, African, and indigenous North African ("Berber") contributions and styles. Here's your first concert, courtesy of the 2009 Arabesque Arts Festival held at The Kennedy Center in Washington, DC: Andalusian (from Andalusia in southern Spain, historic home of the Moors) music by Chabab Al Andalous Rabat Orchestra with Mohammed Bajeddoub and Bahae Ronda. Enjoy!

Posted by Alex Safos at 10:43 PM | Permalink

And now, for concert #2, some traditional, sincere Berber songs and dances to contrast with the prior orchestral Andalusian ensemble. Have a listen to Bnet Houariyat ("Daughters of Houara"--a region in the Anti-Atlas Mountains of southwestern Morocco).

Posted by Alex Safos at 12:55 AM | Permalink

And to conclude this mini-course, here is a concert from Hoba Hoba Spirit, a popular band from Casablanca fusing reggae, rock, punk, and gnawa (the Sufi music brought to Morocco by slaves from Mali and other West African countries) rhythms.

Posted by Alex Safos at 1:39 AM | Permalink

By Philippe Sauvagnargues (AFP) - February 10, 2011

CASABLANCA, Morocco -- A white building tucked into a residential neighbourhood of this cosmopolitan city holds a treasure trove few here know about: the Arab region's only Jewish museum.

"To be frank, I didn't even know there were Jews of Moroccan origin," said high school student Sidi Ahmed, who visited the Museum of Moroccan Judaism of Casablanca with his class from the Western Sahara town of Dakhla.

"Thanks to this visit, I found out there were Moroccan Jews in Fez, in Meknes and in other cities" in Morocco, Ahmed added."I am happy to have learnt this."

Founded in 1997, the Jewish museum assembles a hodgepodge of objects -- clothes, tools, even a jeweller's studio -- that attest to the rich history of the country's 2,000-year-old Jewish community.

"It's the only Jewish museum in the Arab world," said museum curator Zhor Rehihil, a Moroccan civil servant who is Muslim.

Some 5,000 Jews live in Morocco today -- including 2,000 in Casablanca, according to Rehihil's estimates.

Continue reading "In Casablanca, only Jewish Museum in the Arab World" »

Posted by Alex Safos at 4:09 PM | Permalink

All have made it through security and have boarded their flight to Morocco. Rihla Sa'ida (Bon Voyage)! Check back here often to get the latest student and teacher program updates and reflections.

Posted by Alex Safos at 9:58 PM | Permalink

We've received word that the group has arrived in the medieval "medina" (old city) of Fes after a long day of travel and initial sightseeing. Some rest is in order before home-stays and language lessons begin tomorrow. Expect some initial impressions in the next day or so.

Posted by Alex Safos at 9:18 PM | Permalink

Continue reading "The coolest thing I've seen today was..." »

Posted by Alia at 10:42 PM | Permalink

And to follow up on that last post, here are some more priceless first day impressions...

• "How green the land is" - Nick
• "Live chickens at the meat shop and donkeys on the highway" - Mackenzie
• "How carefree the children were" - Jessica
• "Turkish baths below the mosque at Hassan II" - Mackenzie
• "Patterns" - Jessica
• "Luxe et misere au meme place." - Laura
• "How beautiful the inside of homes were... also how narrow and steep the stairs were." - Itzel
• "The vast expanses of beautiful green agricultural land on the way to Fez." - Claire
• "How modern the Turkish toilets look." - Ruby
• "I didn't expect to see my breath! We're wearing our layers! And the sun is warm and welcome! - SPW
• "How modern and how diverse the cities are." - Nera

Posted by Alia at 12:30 AM | Permalink

Salamu Ealikum! Labas? It's Claire, Laura and Nera writing here, and that's part of the Arabic that we just learned in our first class. We are all safe and having a great time here!

We learned all sorts of exciting things about Moroccan culture in the last two days. Did you know Moroccan people are very welcoming to foreigners ? Outside Sqala, a traditional Moroccan restaurant, they performed a song and dance for us! Some of us even joined in; it was unexpected, but really fun. Another challenging but interesting custom that we have been trying to get used to is only eating with our right hands. Here people are very sensitive about this, since your left hand is considered to be the hand you wash yourself with.

Everything is incredibly beautiful here. The weather is a refreshing break from the cold and depressing Lakeville winter; it's sunny and spring-like outside. Yesterday, after we landed in Casablanca, we visited the Mosque of Hassan II, the third largest mosque in the world. The detailed architecure was breath-taking with beautiful colors of vivid red, blue, yellow, and green.

Many things were not as we had expected ... Something that Mrs. Wilson had wanted to write since we arrived is that when we landed in Casablanca it was so cold that a woman was wearing her fur jacket ... However, our experience is far from limited to the places we've seen so far. Touching the Atlantic Ocean and smelling the sea breeze, seeing beautifully decorated ceiling everywhere, seeing cats roaming on the streets, people offering to sell us things all the time, tasting all kinds of food (such as tajine, falafel and couscous) and drinking the distinctive orange juice and the overly sugared mint tea, taking a ride with the "petit taxi's", seeing the donkey carrying crates of oranges and horses carrying people are among the most memorable moments so far. It's only been a day and a half and we have already done so many things!

Posted by Alia at 12:00 PM | Permalink

As one of the French teachers aptly put it-- we could go back to the States today and we would have still had a fully engaging, absolutely inspiring experience.

... and to think this is only our second day!

What she means to say, is that our days have been full, our stomachs have been satiated, and our minds have been racing a million miles a minute. Just to give you an idea, today started with breakfast of freshly squeezed orange juice, homemade raib yogurt, harsha bread fresh out of the oven, and Morocco's infamous nis-nis (literally, "half-half") coffee.

After that we headed out to school-- Darija first, followed by French. You'd think everyone would be confused by the constant back and forth and code-switching between French, Darija, and English but everyone seemed to eat it right up. I can't wait until we get down south in the desert and all of a sudden we throw in the Amazigh languages-- talk about linguistic complexities!

After class, we met our host families, moved in, relaxed ever-so-briefly over lunch, where I'm sure all the students were encouraged to, "Eat! Eat! Eat!" only to rush off to our next activity-- a full-blown tour of the Fes medina. This was no small feat as the Fes medina ia a world heritage site known for its thousands of mazelike roads. Along the way, we admired the architecture while stopping at the leather tanneries, a workshop of male weavers, and several ancient mosques and universities. The tour wove itself back and forth through the medina's twisty/turny streets only to deposit us once again at the Cafe Clock where we attended a lecture on Islam.

Between language classes, meeting new families, running up and down the medina, learning about Islam, and trying new foods, it's safe to say that we really have accomplished quite a bit. Even though they're probably tired and jet-lagged, the students' interest has only grown with each new visit and every new challenge. As the leader, it's remarkable to see everyone's enthusiasm and passion for learning and for understanding each new cultural situation.

I'm sure you're all eager to hear from the students themselves and to see pictures, so tomorrow I'll take advantage of a 'quiet' moment to post a few pictures and share some more writing from the students!

Posted by Alia at 9:14 PM | Permalink

And just to give you an idea of what the medina of Fes is like once you get off the beaten path, this video shows you the way from Geordie and Nick's homestay family's house to the main Medina road.

Posted by Alia at 10:20 AM | Permalink

The trip begins with promise in the JFK airport..

Eight hours later we jump in our minivan and set out into the Casablanca morning...

The mosque Hassan II awaits us...

But our energy was bound to run out at some point..

Only to return full force the next day...

and the next day...

and the next, and the next, and the next, I'm sure.

(thanks to Geordie, Jessica, and Itzel for the photos)

Posted by Alia at 11:14 AM | Permalink | Comments (1)

Salaam w Aleikoum! (that means peace be with you in Arabic - we've learned so much!)

So, this is Itzel and Jessica. Wow, its so different to be writing in English for a change - we're actually thinking in French right now!

Yestesrday was amazing! After eating breakfast with our homestay families (which was a new and awesome experience), we sped off to our Arabic and Moroccan culture classes (all in French). It was really interesting to get a new viewpoint on life, religion, and government policy here in Morocco, from a renowned professor, Prof. Tazi. After that, we had lunch at our homestay. They made couscous especially for us! Even though they normally only make it on Fridays after prayers, they took the time and effort to make it especially for us, on a Tuesday. Words can't even describe the rich, delicious, spice filled flavor. We took lots of pictures, we'll attach one.

After that, we went to a "Centre D'Acceuil" ( A center of Welcoming). It was a home for boys in difficult housing/financial circumstances, aged 7-15. We met them all (they were absolutely adorable - see the pictures, they loved the camera) practiced our Arabic, taught them songs, and played games. We tried to teach them 'Head, Shoulders, Knees and toes" and a bunch of others. Then, we played the hug game.

Nick was the reigning champion, pulling kids playfully and doing all he could to secure a win. We all had a great time.

Another huge thing here is 'taxi hunting'. Its definitely a skill to master. We haven't quite gotten it down yet, but we;'re working on it. We can only fit three people in one car, so its annoying that we always have to flag down four cars - finding one is hard enough!

To us, the best part is the homestays. There is a bit of a language barrier, but its fascinating to see how we communicate with our body. Its mind-blowing what eye contact, a simple laugh or a smile can do. Only two people in our family speak french, so its a bit of a struggle. Its still fun though! They're some of the kindest people we have ever met, and they treat us like family. They enjoy playing with us, and dressing us up in typical Muslim wear (see the pictures). We were surprised to discover that our family was very familiar with American music. Our host brother, who had heard the song "I'm in Miami Trick" by LMFAO, and he came up to us and asked, "Have you ever been to 'Miamitrick?", thinking that 'Miamitrick' was the actual name of the city! We had a ball explaining the separation. The eveing was filled with instances like that and lots of shared laughter. Leaving tomorrow will be truly heartbreaking.

The weather here is not what we expected. Actually, it hailed last night! It gets a little cold in the mornings and evenings, but once the sun comes out, its mizien (good, in arabic). Its definitely better than in Lakeville.

So, thats it for now. Jessica sends her love to her mom, dad, and sister Julia. Itzel sends hugs and kisses to her brothers, Mom and Dad.

LOVE, Itzel and Jessica

Bslama!!

Posted by Alia at 11:53 AM | Permalink

BBC Reports that Morocco's King Mohammed VI has promised "comprehensive constitutional reform" in the north African country.

Posted by Alex Safos at 4:02 PM | Permalink

This is Mackenzie writing to pass some time on the 7-hour train taking us from Fes down to Marrakech.

Taking a shower with one hand is very difficult. Yesterday was our last day in Fes, so Fatima-Zahra, one of the kindest host mothers, hosted a farewell party in the middle of her courtyard. Along with a live Moroccan band and traditional mint tea, there was a woman who did henna designs. She began with an intricate vine design on my ring finger, but little did I know that she would continue to henna all the way up my arm. The brown, freezing cold mud solidified on my skin, and the ink seeped into my skin, which actually was painful. The only downfall to getting henna is the limited mobility for the next 24 hours. I slept with a Ziploc bag and lemon juice on my hand last night to preserve the color, and I showered with my left hand. At breakfast this morning, my host mom, Ghizlan, took a washcloth, wiped it across my skin to rid the solid brown mud, and she revealed a beautiful burnt orange pattern of flowers reaching from my nails all the way past my wrist. I'm so excited to raise my hand in class when we get back to Hotchkiss because I can flaunt the beautiful henna tattoo. Even Geordie and Nick, the two boys of our group, have incredible designs on their forearms (although they were definitely peer pressured by us 8 girls to get henna!)

Yesterday we took a road trip to Moulay Idris. We climbed what felt like ten thousands of steep stairs (something which I was very out of shape to do... I guess this goes to show how much I love the Moroccan food) to arrive at a villa lodged into the a cliff overlooking the beautiful panorama of the entire city. There, we were surprised with a traditional Moroccan meal: cous cous, chicken, beets, tomatos, carrots, you name it. The woman who prepared the meal began cooking at 6am for us; it was truly a memorable experience because of how elaborately the meal was served. We ate on the edge of the roof, feet dangling and stomachs queasing from the elevation of the villa. After digesting, we visited Volubilis, the Roman ruins in Morocco from about 200AD. In the center of the ruins, there is a replica of l'Arc de Triomphe from le Champs Elysees in Paris. When the tour guide asked for the name of the structure, I replied in french, "l'Arc de Triomphe." He looked so surprised and replied, "Tu es americaine, mais les americans n'ont pas l'accent si beau comme le tien. Enchante." Translation: "you're american, but americans don't have accents as beautiful as yours. I'm impressed." I was so happy when he said this; it just goes to show how well we are all seamlessly fitting into Moroccan culture.

Bisous to mom and dad.. love and miss you guys! Only 6 more hours to go on the train...

Posted by Alia at 9:40 PM | Permalink

All have successfully made their way from Fes to Marrakech via the "Marrakech Express" and are comfortably tucked away in a riad, or traditional courtyard home, in the medina. More from this electric city later. While Fes is known as the spiritual soul of Morocco, Marrakech has a frontier-like flavor all its own.  

Posted by Alex Safos at 10:04 PM | Permalink

Salaamu Aleikum, Ruby!

Wa aleikum salaam, Madame!

So let's write about where we are right now... it's 10 pm and we're in a riad, Riad Arabesca, chez Gita Sellman. What a place... and what a hostess.

R: Gita's hair is as bright on fire as the lights of the motorcycles we see in the streets of the rose colored medina here in Marrakech.

SPW: We had a full day today beginning with breakfast here at Arabesca: two kinds of bread, three kinds of jam (including figue - j'adore) , hard boiled eggs, cheese (Gouda et La Vache Qui Rit), cucumber, a kind of ham/bologna. Ruby just said that in Botswana it's called Polony.

R: I feel very taken care of, here. The rooms are so beautiful. The one that looks like a honeymoon suite is so romantic.

SPW: and there are so many decorative aspects to our rooms: the fine pottery, lanterns, beautiful woven bed spreads like the textiles we saw being woven in Fes, copper topped coffee tables, the poofs for our feet (ottomans). One student bought one the other day... shhhhh it's a gift...

R: color coded robes, towels, plastic shower slippers, the blankets, the carved walls - on clothes it would be embroidery - and the showers are "real."

SPW: and all the rooms open up onto the courtyard. We are wrapped in lovely shawls and woolen wraps borrowed from the riad - we just learned that it snowed in the mountains where we're headed and none of us has mittens or parkas here!

R: and it has been pouring! My pants were soaked. Today we went on two tours: a museum tour which was interesting and I did learn a lot about the jewelry and instruments and clothes of Morocco's past.

SPW: this museum was Dar Si Said - a house that probably 20 sons and their families lived in. And the palace we saw afterward was the Stork Palace! Badia Palace.

R: We could see the Atlas Mountains from the terrace. And afterwards, we had a tasty lunch.

SPW: more incredible FOOD!

R: We tried lemon chicken which was awesome with the bread. And the kebabs were... ah! I don't know the word.

SPW: Ldid? (= delicious in moroccan arabic)

R: and the dessert: I felt like I was having cookie dough! Then we basically went shopping in the rain. After we all went to the herbalist.

SPW: and some of us had 20 dh shoulder massages as we learned about oils, flowers, saffron grown in Morocco.

R: I got saffron for my Mum which was so inexpensive here. And some mint tea for my family to try.

SPW: I got herbs and spices, too. Since last evening in the Place Djma el Fna I've had tea (spice tea, mint tea or ginger tea) five different times!

R: speaking of tea, the glasses are beautiful. And so are the teapots. In the souk (market) I saw a lot of beautiful cutlery, and not just that. The carpets, scarves, shoes (baboush), lamps,

SPW: aprictos, mint, spices,

R: oranges,

SPW: dates, nuts,

R: everything, really...

SPW: we're forgetting the friendly (??), eager vendors!

R: then we had the men singing for the dikhr.

SPW: this was back at Arabesca, between our two blocks of free time: an hour-long introduction to sufi chanting/singing/prayer. Candles lit, us around the salon on the low moroccan sofas, some of us meditating, some dozing, some studying the backs of our eyelids, some watching - here was just another aspect of this culture. OH! We totally forgot this morning's talk/lecture on the Berber culture! Wonderful Mohamed Soudani. Great to see and hear him again.

R: I didn't take any notes, but he was really engaging. It didn't feel like two hours! I was really happy to learn about the positive differences between the women of the Berber cultures and the Arabic city culture.

SPW: and that each of Morocco's kings has had a berber or common (or muggle!) wife. Right up to Mohammed VI whose wife is a Fessie (woman from Fes).

R: I don't know if it's because of where we've been, but more women are covered, here.

SPW: but also, they ride mopeds through the medina, even in their jellabas and veils.

R: I'm trying to end this blog entry: maybe just end with the Friday couscous that we had. Which we cleaned. It was really good: beef, not the usual chicken. And you can talk about the dessert -

SPW: fresh squeezed orange juice mixed with finely shredded carrots! Another delicious moroccan treat.

R: Eeyah, Ldid!

SPW: mizzyan bezzef!

Posted by Alia at 11:36 PM | Permalink | Comments (1)

A few of the students (I'm not naming any names, but you know who you are!) fell in love with this song during our last-night-in-Fes-henna-going-away party in which we were serenaded by oud players and singers. It has a long intro, but the singing starts around 1:15. Enjoy, habibis!

Posted by Alia at 12:20 AM | Permalink

Posted by Alex Safos at 7:16 PM | Permalink

Salaam W Aleikoum!

So for travel-related health reasons that will go unnamed, I wasn't really participating in today's exciting adventure, but I did a lot of vicarious adventuring and took so much pleasure in soaking up the beautiful views and the laughter and shrieks of our kids and their El Araki hosts as they zipped across a most beautiful landscape at Terre d'Amanar in the mountains outside of Marrakech. (www.terresdamanar.com) Check it out!

The weather was spectacular and after four hours of high-rope bridge crossing, Hotchkiss student and El Araki student, Hotchkiss and so on, we enjoyed yet another amazing tagine with poulet citron.

The students are speaking so much French - even with their very competent English speaking hosts, the linguistic mix is very impressive. Our few days of Darija lessons back in Fes also still come in handy - our Moroccan hosts appreciate our few words and gestures. Their pride and delight in sharing their country and culture are absolutely heart-warming.

Our next and last stop of the day, before delivering the students back to their host families for the evening, was at at Enfance Espoir, an orphanage for babies and toddlers run by the Moroccan Ministry of Health. We left the fifteen minutes that turned into a half hour that turned into an hour, along with the lovely tea ritual. When we got back on the bus, we realized that we'd left Claire, Ruby and Mme Wilson in the newborn room, and I don't think they'd have noticed that we'd left until around midnight.

Tomorrow we head for Ouarzazate, and we will make a number of very varied stops along the way.

We hope you are still following us - we look forward to sharing all this with you in person, but time is going too fast now...

Layla Saida,

Wendy

Posted by Alia at 10:54 PM | Permalink

Today we begin our long journey up over Morocco's Atlas mountains and down the other side into the fringe of the Sahara desert. What awaits us on the other side are ancient Kasbahs, oasis towns, sunset camel rides, and a rich Amazigh (or indiginous) culture.

As we prepare to leave the rose city of Marrakech and embark upon the final leg of our journey, I think back on all the things weve done, everything we have accomplished over the last week (has it only been a week?!). In particular, I'd like to share with you two poems written by Gita Sellman, our gracious host for part of our Marrakech stay. On our last night in her lovely riad, she read these poems to us as a fond bon voyage:

La Mélodie de ta Vie

Il faut chercher,

il faut trouver

la mélodie de ta vie

Il faut la chanter

il faut la danser,

si non, tu n'es qu'une poupée

And one more...

Printemps du Monde

La joie est toujours là,

calme et profonde.

Elle est pleine comme une rivière

au printemps du monde.

Et le temps ouvre ses ailes

pour voler aux cieux.

La distance n'est plus réelle.

elle prend ses adieux. 

 Thank you, Gita for these lovely poems and your generous hospitality at Riad Arabesca!

Posted by Alia at 10:14 AM | Permalink

The group has successfully made its way across the stunning Tizi n Tichka pass (2,260 meters/7,414 feet) and down into Ouarzazate where there are reports of more sun and less rain. To get a better idea of the switchback-filled road (N9) over the High Atlas Mountains--engineered by the French in 1936--zoom into the map below. I suspect there were some stops en route for panoramic photos (yes, there is snow in Morocco!) and vertigo relief....

View Larger Map

Posted by Alex Safos at 8:07 PM | Permalink

The group has continued its southeast trajectory, through the cinematic oases of the Draa Valley, and has arrived safely in the town of Zagora late this afternoon. Tomorrow: The Sahara Desert. Soon: photos and missives from the students themselves.

Posted by Alex Safos at 9:38 PM | Permalink

If we say that Morocco is a place of contrasts, it's because...

...we drove through snowy mountains and desert and verdant valleys all in one day yesterday. It's because we see 14^th century casbahs within kilometers of cybercafes. It's because we're hearing (and trying to say) "Uhu" and "La" and "Non" and "No" in a single conversation... it's because the architecture changes with each city, and the petit taxis follow suit. It's because our senses are challenged and stimulated regularly. Moroccan air greets with a chill and sun and snow flurries and driving rain! There's contrast in the patterns of the rugs we've seen on looms, expertly handled by weathered and agile hands - these very patterns exist in reality in the hills we drove through today as a wide rainbow led us to Zagora. Choukran, El Maghrib!    -Sarinda

there are many different sides to this country. While we were in the city in Marrakech, I could've sworn that we were in the U.S; there were the same types of stores and boutiques, taxies going left and right, and of course there was a McDonalds. It was modern and beautiul at the same time. On the drive to Ouarzazate, Our surroundings transformed from the bustling city to snow capped mountains, to the vast, sandy desert. Approaching the occupied part of Ouarzazate, the scene was incredible. If you looked to the left, you saw mountains drenched in snow. To the right, sand dunes that reached toward the night sky. Looking forward, the bright lights of the city twinkled like a cluster of stars in the distance. It's incredible how you can find so many drastically different environments in the same place. -Claire

I have seen the veiled women walking silently on the male-domained, narrow streets of Medina and I have laughed with girls of my age so loudly on the wide roads with cars running by us. Seeing both sides of Morocco made the trip intense and interesting. My host sister and a bunch of her friends took me to a shopping center, where I found Zara and other brands. I have never expected to see those familiar brands in Morocco. When I walked into the shops, people from all over the world were doing shopping as in the states. It is hard to imagine that one day ago, I was in the market and bargaining for a leather bag from an unbelievable high price to an acceptable one. Moreover, when we walked into the private school, girls were all in heels, jeans, which was really contradictary from what we have heard or seen days ago. Even the food varied from places to places. In the host family in Fez, we had traditional bread, tajine, couscous., This time in Marrakech, I had the best pizza and cakes made by the host mother. The contrasts we experienced in these days made me think about China, the USA and other countries that I have been to. I want to be here with my parents, to see all the contrasts with them. That's one idea that the contrasts didn't change in my mind. -Nera

Continue reading "Morocco is a Country of Contrasts because..." »

Posted by Alia at 8:30 AM | Permalink

Posted by Alex Safos at 6:42 PM | Permalink

I spoke with Alia a few moments ago--the group has returned from its southern excursion (sounded more like a very filling and fulfilling expedition to me) and has returned to Ouarzazate for everyone's farewell night in Morocco. The hotel's Internet was down, so posts about the group's travels to Zagora and then to the desert may be delayed a day or two. But definitely check back as the photos and stories will be rich and worthwhile. 

Safe journey back to the US tomorrow and "until next time in Maroc".... 

Posted by Alex Safos at 7:50 PM | Permalink

Last night as we lingered around after dinner on our last night in Morocco, Itzel came up with the idea to give everyone on our trip their own nickname. Through half-closed eyes and sleepy nostalgia, we worked together to assign everyone a nickname and then passed the computer around so that each person might write a little vignette explaining someone else's nickname. What you see below is a glimpse into the moments that passed between us over the last two weeks.

At this point, as you know, your globetrotting teenagers are on a plane flying back over the Atlantic Ocean. Stories and pictures are still to come, especially from our desert excursion, but for the meantime, I leave you with this.

Geordie "Does this Come in Peach?" Henderson One of Geordie's goals on this trip was to find gifts for all the important women in his life. He always had his eyeballs peeled for the silken scarf in that perfect shade of peach - his girlfriend's favorite color. Finally, one day he returned to our house in Marrakech with a glowing smile stamped on his face, shouting at us, "Guys! I found the scarf!" Pulling out a brown plastic bag with exuberant enthusiasm, he showed us a gorgeous silken scarf in the lightest, pastel-like shade of peach. From then on, we all teased him whenever we saw something peach: and every time, his eyes always lit up.

Mackenzie "Johnny" Moore Sitting around the fire in the desert, after what seemed like hours of drumming and singing, the group broke into the necessary scary story telling session. We had just visited the movie set of the B-horror movie, "The Hills Have Eyes" and so Geordie was inspired to share his own scary story about Johnny, a one-legged axe murderer-- "hack-hack-hack"... he freaked Mackenzie out so much that she flinched and squealed when an Amazigh dressed in glow sticks came close to approaching her. But that was only the beginning of her paranoia. Later when she was en route to the bathroom to brush her teeth, another Saharan nomad followed her and screamed out in Arabic. Mackenzie swears that he said "Johnny," so she screeched, sprinted to the bathroom, dropped her things on the ground and feared that Johnny was going to cut her legs off and she would be stuck in the Sahara forever. Geordie and Nick had a great laugh when they walked in the bathroom to find her on the brink of hyperventilation in the middle of the floor.

Continue reading "Shnou Smitek? My name is..." »

Posted by Alia at 4:10 PM | Permalink

I never think about Dido except for when I return from a trip to Morocco--kind of like I don't think of Celine Dion except for when I'm in Fes (it's a long story but it has to do with riding around in Moustapha's collectors Mercedes Benz which you've all now experienced)... Anyway, back to Norah Jones--you know her song that starts: "I still have sand in my shoes..."? Well, this time it's literal as well as figurative.

Our Morocco trip is over and once again, I still have sand in my shoes from our magical night in the Erg Chicaga dunes. I'm having a hard time expressing myself but there are certain images of that desert excursion that I'll always carry with me. Here are a few to ruminate on:

...by the end of our trip we had gotten so good at our quick egress-photoshoot-remount into the van that it was no different when we pulled up to that dusty roadside scarf shop in Tagounite. It felt like a rite of passage to buy the blue-tinted scarves and have the shopboys symbolically wrap our heads to protect them from the sun and the wind. Like a force to be reckoned with, we came, we bought, and in no time we were back in the van, heads wrapped and full of anticipation...

...we passed the last gas station with 'cold/oolo beer for 200 miles' (except this was the fake gas station that was part of the movie set for 'The Hills Have Eyes') and then we really passed "the last gas station"...

Continue reading "i still have sand in my shoes..." »

Posted by Alia at 1:29 AM | Permalink

To Wendy and Sarinda: While the students were passed out in the back of the van (really-- how DID they do that??) I have a feeling you were rocking out to some of my Moroccan music, like Hoba Hoba Spirit.

This is my favorite song by them and is sung in mostly French and Darija. The song, 'Fine ghadi biya khoya," literally means, 'Where are you going, Brother?' and is a modern day interpretation of a Nass el Ghiwane song from the 1970s with the same name.

To our partners at El Araki: thanks for all of your hard work in setting up the homestays and our adventurous day ziplining in the mountain. Also, thanks for turning me onto this Moroccan group, Jil Jilala-- I've already bought two of their CDs and have been listening to them nonstop as I continue my trip throughout Morocco.

And finally, to the students: Not quite our Saharaoui serenador from the last night in Ouarzazate, here is a classic rendition of the famous song, Aicha, by Algerian Cheb Khaled.

Posted by Alia at 11:59 PM | Permalink

Watch the full episode. See more PBS NewsHour.

Posted by Alex Safos at 3:22 AM | Permalink