Hotchkiss Morocco 2009

In Morocco, an Alternative to Iran

By Anne Applebaum
Tuesday, June 30, 2009

RABAT -- If you want an antidote to the photographs of police officers beating demonstrators and girls dying on the streets of the Iranian capital, take a drive through the streets of the Moroccan capital. You might see demonstrators, but not under attack: On the day I visited, a group of people politely waving signs stood outside the parliament. You might see girls, but they will not be sniper targets, and they will not all look like their Iranian counterparts: Though there is clearly a fashion for long, flowing headscarves and blue jeans, many women would not look out of place in New York or Paris.

Welcome to the kingdom of Morocco, a place which, in the light of the past two week's events in Iran, merits a few minutes of reflection. Unlike Turkey, Morocco is not a secular state: The king claims direct descent from the prophet Mohammed. Nor does Morocco aspire to be European: Though French is still the language of business and higher education, the country is linguistically and culturally part of the Arabic-speaking world. But unlike most of its Arab neighbors, the country has over the past decade undergone a slow but profound transformation from traditional monarchy to constitutional monarchy, acquiring along the way real political parties, a relatively free press, new political leaders -- the mayor of Marrakesh is a 33-year-old woman -- and a set of family laws that strive to be compatible both with sharia and international conventions on human rights.

The result is not what anyone would call a liberal democratic paradise. One human rights activist painted for me a byzantine portrait of electoral corruption, involving "mediators" who "organize" votes on behalf of candidates. Others point out that if the demonstrators I saw at the parliament had been Islamic radicals or Western Saharan guerrilla leaders, rather than trade unionists, the police might not have been quite so blasé. Though women have legal rights, cultural restraints remain. A tiny fraction of the population reads newspapers, even fewer have Internet access, and somewhere between 40 and 50 percent of the country is illiterate; as a result, election turnout is very low. Political posters feature symbols, not words.

Yet in at least one sense, Morocco truly stands out: Alone in the region, the Moroccan government has admitted to carrying out political crimes, and it has set up a "Truth Commission" along South African and South American lines. Beginning in 2004, the commission investigated crimes, held televised hearings and paid compensation to some 23,000 victims and their families. The crimes in question -- arbitrary arrests, "disappearances," torture, executions -- occurred during the reign of King Hassan II, who died in 1999. The Truth Commission is the creation of his son, King Mohammed VI. But although this acknowledgement of wrongdoing was made possible by a generational change, it did not require a regime change. There was no revolution, no violence. The king is still the king, and he still has his collection of antique cars.

The result of the Truth Commission's work is a kind of social peace. Not everybody likes the monarchy, but even its opponents concede that the break with the past is real: If nothing else, people feel it's safe to speak openly, safe to form civil rights groups, safe to criticize the electoral process, even safe to complain about the king. Saadia Belmir -- a Moroccan judge and the first female Muslim member of the U.N. Committee on Torture -- told me that despite obstacles, "we can now build the future on the basis of our good understanding of the past." Controversially, perpetrators were allowed to fade into the background. But the crosscurrents of anger and revenge that might otherwise have marked the young king's reign have subsided.

Is this a model for others? The Moroccans think so, and they have quietly "shared their experiences" with African and Middle Eastern neighbors. Belmir told me that an informal group had been working on setting up a Truth Commission in Togo; others hint at Jordan, though of course that's unofficial. They all hasten to point out that their formula -- slow transformation under the aegis of a (so far) popular king -- doesn't apply everywhere. One thinks wistfully of the shah of Iran and of what might have been.

Still, watching the extraordinary range of clothing and skin colors on the Moroccan streets, one takes away at least one thought: Transformation from authoritarianism to democracy is possible, even in an avowedly Islamic state, even with an ethnically mixed population, even with the presence of a jihadist fringe. More importantly: It is possible to acknowledge and discuss human rights violations in this culture, just as they can be discussed elsewhere. Just because much of the Arab world lacks the political will to change doesn't mean that change is always and forever impossible.

applebaumletters@washpost.com

Posted by Alex Safos at 4:59 PM | Permalink

So here we sit, Kevin et moi (Sarinda) on a cool green bench in the middle of the Jardin Majorelle – a bamboo, floral, bird-filled palm oasis in Marrakech, Yves Saint Laurent's dream and creation. We'll blog a bit together.

So what do we feel about Marrakech?
KX: it's cooler, the weather is more pleasant than in Fes. The roads are more spacious even though we have to jump to the side to avoid being hit by speeding motorcycles!
SPW: Pedestrians certainly don't have the right of way. I do miss seeing donkeys (and the donkey 'trash truck' passing each day in Fes Medina.) But we learned quickly to walk in a line, listen for the quick series of beeps, whistles, honks or shouts of “balek!” which means “attention!” in French or “watch out” in English I guess.
KX: I really like the square Jamaa el Fna. Lots of cafes, petits magasins, performing artists (snake charmers, story tellers, dancers, traditional Berber musicians) Most important is the food! There must be like 100 restaurants there. And the orange juice which you can find nowhere else in the world. Oh...don't forget the gelati... I haven't had such a taste since my last summer in the Amalfi coast.
SPW: The bees like the gelati too. Each morning we share our jam and honey with them, too. Copious Moroccan breakfasts (homemade bread in our homestays, tea, a variety of crepes, honey, confitures, cafe au lait, brioches, baguette, pistachio/banana yogurt, hard-boiled eggs when we're in hotels...) start us off well. Happily, while breakfast isn't so new to us, (most of) our digestive systems are agreeing with all these vetetable and chicken or beef tagines, couscous, beef and chicken brochettes, pastillas (chicken or pigeon and almonds in a flaky pastry dusted with cinnamon and powdered sugar – I admit to having ordered chicken rather than pigeon!
So we've already had one person decide he'll come back here for his honeymoon. (Christina just came by our bench and says she will, too.) It IS a romantic city in many ways: sitting inside a riad like Gita's listening to a gentle fountain, coexisting peacefully with so many other people in this city and then hearing the calls to prayer, we feel the harmony of busy activity and more spiritual introspection.
OK - Kevin's feeling left out: I'll pass back to him with a question: Kevin, what are three things that have surprised you in Marrakech?
KX: Well, it's not easy to pick up only three things... Anyway, I would say they are the well-preserved Riads, the incredible food, and the friendly people. Through the Riads, we've learned a lot about traditional Moroccan architecture as well as the Islam cultures. Personally, I've always loved eating and just one thing, you've got to try the fresh juices here. Bargaining is a kind of art here.
SPW: OUI! What's the secret, Kevin, in your mind?
KX: You need to make friends with the shopkeeper, which is actually not that difficult. You start with “Salam Alikum” (President Obama used the same way in his Cairo speech), and tell them a little bit about yourself. As Kempie told us earlier, very few things in Morocco have a fixed price. So, we must be very patient in haggling down the prices. I always tell them “Je suis un etudiant et Je n'ai pas d'argent,” hoping they will give a “special” price for me. Sometimes you even need to pretend that you can't afford the price they asked and walk out of the shop, slowly. Then they'll probably drag you back and agree to the price you've offered if they can accept it.
SPW: Time is up, and we're off to Ourika (the high Atlas mountains) so I want to just add something about waking up in Morocco. For the past two days I've wondered if the 4 am call to prayer has even happened. This morning I finally heard it, loud and crisp projecting from the minaret just next to our hotel. It's a nice snooze button – three more hours to slumber until the roosters begin to wake me. The other day I asked everyone how they were waking up each day. Genevieve's response wins the prize: “Well, I set my alarm each day for 7 but there's a donkey outside my homestay front door, so he gets me going by 6:30.”

Posted by Marie at 8:29 PM | Permalink

Although I'm sifting through unexpected sicknesses (nothing too worrying, Mummy!), I've found myself really enjoying all that Morocco offers. One of the most surprising and noteworthy experiences I've had thus far was in Fes. Genevieve and I were strolling through the medina and encountered an interesting shop, filled with assorted touristy items (camel toys, small tajines, etc). We entered and were greeted by a friendly shopkeeper. After purchasing a few items (and bargaining, of course!), the shopkeeper invited us to have tea with him later in the afternoon. This kind of generosity is unsurpassed in most other countries I've visited, and yet this is only one example of the continuous gestures of kindness.

I love/miss my Mummy, Daddy, and tibbies very much. Hope all is well!

Love,
Anne

P.S. Anne is feeling much better now and according to her, she is back to her normal self! Alhamdoulilah!

Posted by Marie at 8:26 PM | Permalink

6/26 – Marrakech, 6:30 PM

We are all finding it surprisingly difficult to write down what we are living, except perhaps in a private journal, which a number of us are keeping. Right now I am alone in one of the main sitting rooms of Gita Sellman's Riad. I hear the fan, the beautiful and constant song of birds, a few voices from below, and the now familiar and wonderful aroma of Moroccan cooking is making its way up to me. I am torn between launching myself into a run-down of everything we have done – just today – and going downstairs to settle into Gita's library, which is a feast unto itself. In fact, I think that I am going to do the latter. I want to share that I think that many of us are simultaneously more stimulated and more reflective than we are accustomed to being in our everyday lives. The two experiences are a bit difficult to reconcile, because they draw our energies in different directions. We will be processing for weeks, months, and some of us possibly years to come, so apologies to those friends and family who have been looking for the instant gratification blog entries that we naively promised pre-departure. Many pictures will soon be available, and the images may well speak better than our words. Like others, I miss friends and family, but am feeling incredibly blessed. Hum dullah.

Posted by Marie at 8:24 PM | Permalink

At Emmy's homestay in Fes, the shower had been broken for over a year, so she had to use a bucket of water and a little bowl to dump water over her head! The first icy bowl was always the worst, but when in Rome...

Before arriving in her homestay, Lauren was expecting an intimate experience with a traditional Moroccan family of 5, speaking purely French. Little did she know she would be spending 5 nights in a multi-cultural bed and breakfast consisting of a Spanish couple, a French couple, and two other American students! In addition, of course, to the family members themselves and 50 of their closest friends – I guess you can never deny the impeccable Moroccan hospitality.

Walking through the streets of Fes, Lauren was quickly offered 5,000 camels for her hand in marriage! We were all quite impressed with this offer until Emmy received a bid for the whole desert!!! Too bad they both refused – think of all the money their parents could have made.

After arriving in Marrakech, shopping for our friends and family was a top priority. Lauren caught sight of “a lustrous bangle” and we hurried over to the stand to inspect. The man started out at a ridiculous price – 450DH! Lauren bargained it down to a mere 200DH, and insisted on being shown a test to prove that the metal was real silver. The vendor promptly produced a dagger and began sawing at the bracelet, leaving no mark: we were convinced. About 10 minutes later, in a second jewelry store, Lauren tried to buy a silver ring, and cited the price of her bracelet as a bargaining tool. Unfortunately, the seller quickly showed the bangle to be a fraud; it wasn't really silver!

Despite periods of discomfort while pulling through colds and stomach aches, it is clear that both Emmy and Lauren are experiencing a culture unlike they have ever seen before, and enjoying every minute of it!

Lauren & Emmy

Posted by Marie at 8:21 PM | Permalink

I spoke with Kempie and the group had just returned from a pleasant day-hike in the High Atlas foothills. Tonight, group home-stays commence with home-cooked mountain fare, many laughing children, and prodigious amounts of mint tea. There is no Internet connectivity in the village, so student postings will have to wait until the next leg in Essaouira.

The group is not staying exactly in this setting, but to provide some perspective, this is a typical summer scene in the High Atlas Mountains (the highest in North Africa--with Morocco laying claim to the highest peak, Mount Toubkal, at 13,671 feet):

Posted by Alex Safos at 9:01 PM | Permalink

The group has arrived in the mountain village of Ourika where they've just enjoyed a delicious welcome lunch with requisite Berber hospitality. After urban perspectives in Casablanca, Fes, and Marrakech, all will now experience a more rugged, rural setting for the next few days. This afternoon, the students will survey their rural development project--creating a sustainable garden, planting trees, and building an irrigation system all for a local school--and will begin their community service effort tomorrow. Kempie and Marie have collected some additional student blog entries, and these will be posted as soon as they can acquire a reliable Internet connection (which may not be until their arrival in Essaouira). So check back for these reflections.

--Alex

Posted by Alex Safos at 3:23 PM | Permalink

Hi families! We are Taesoo, Christina and Da, and it is our eighth day in Morocco. We all are exhausted after our seven-hour-long train ride from Fes to Marrakesh. Our days in Fes went by pretty quickly, and we all miss our home stay families and their hospitality. In Fes, we found out that our stereotype of Arabic women doesn't seem to apply to the Moroccan women. They are free to wear what they want, although some choose to remain conservative by wearing Hijabs (the head coverings). Contrary to our expectation, a lot of them are very well educated and are already playing important roles in the society.

So we are in Marrakesh! Marrkesh is also known as the rose city for its roses, and the queen city for its acceptance of the homosexual community. We are excited about and looking forward to our three days in Marrakesh!

Posted by Marie at 10:57 PM | Permalink

We received a message from Kempie that the group has made its way to Marrakech, Morocco's buzzing, 2nd largest city. They will begin their introduction with an evening tour of the famous Djemaa el Fna--a square teeming with acrobats, henna artists, musicians, fortune-tellers, magicians, snake charmers, storytellers, and countless vendors of kebabs, fresh-squeezed OJ, and dates. There's no place else like it. Check back for their impressions.

-Alex

Posted by Alex Safos at 6:06 PM | Permalink

Our last days in Fes are going quickly! The daily French and Darija (Moroccan Arabic) classes have been enlightening academically as well as useful in our day-to-day interactions with Moroccans in restaurants, shops, and our cultural activities. Everyone is learning conversational Arabic at an impressive rate! After our final classes today we had a lunchtime discussion with Fatima Amrani, a noted feminist scholar who spoke about the history and current state of feminism in Islam and in Morocco as well as the recent reforms to the family code. She was a bright and engaging speaker whose lecture sparked many questions and a lot of informative discussion.

Our afternoons have been spent learning about restoration and preservation of the beautiful architecture and tilework of the old city of Fes, and yesterday we were able to try our hand at creating a piece of traditional Moroccan plasterwork – much harder than the skilled craftsmen make it look!

Last night, we were able to take in a concert of Issawa (drums, horns, and singing) music last night at a local cafe – and a few of us were even brave enough to dance.

Today we had a calligraphy lesson from a classically trained artist who works both in the traditional style and who has participated in fusion projects like “Calligraffiti”, tying together modern and ancient art forms.

Posted by Marie at 10:12 PM | Permalink

After waking up for the first time in our home stays, we enjoyed our second round of language lessons. It is wonderful to see how each experience increases the ease of the other. We returned to our home stays for lunch and a quick break before heading back out. In the early afternoon we toured the medina homes where we will be working on restorations tomorrow afternoon. We are all enjoying a bit of free time now and looking forward to an evening lecture, “Intro to Islam” at Cafe Clock.

-Genevieve

Posted by Marie at 10:06 AM | Permalink

Christina examines a beautiful hammered bronze plate in the Fes medina.

Posted by Marie at 9:50 AM | Permalink

Salaam Alaykum from Fes!

We arrived yesterday afternoon after spending a whirlwind two days in Casa. A dinnertime chat with journalist Hannah gave us some perspective on current issues affecting the press in Morocco. We visited the Hassan II mosque overlooking the ocean - the third largest mosque in the world, and stunningly beautiful.

Today the French and Darija classes began, giving us yet another window into the culture. Afterwards, we enjoyed a medina tour from our guide Mohammad, visiting a pottery workshop on the outskirts of the old part of the city and then venturing in to visit the largest tannery in Fes. Being in the medina gave us a chance to look at the beautiful architecture that we will be helping to preserve through our medina restoration project which begins tomorrow. A lecture from Youssef, our leader in this project, cemented these ideas. This evening everyone retreated to their homestays for the first night of cultural immersion (and their first homecooked meal in the country!)

The group above the landscape of the densely packed Fes medina

We hope all is well at home!

Posted by Marie at 10:19 PM | Permalink

We've received word from Kempie that the group has made its way to Fes where they've had their first tour of the fantastic 1200 year old "medina" (old city)--a UNESCO World Heritage site--and are heading to dinner at Cafe Clock, home to the most delicious Camel Burger in the Maghreb. We should be hearing from participants shortly once they settle into Fes, their unique home for the next several days.

--Alex

Posted by Alex Safos at 8:32 PM | Permalink

Marie sent an email letting us know the group has arrived safely in Casablanca. The flight was smooth and all are hungry. After lunch, they will begin their tour of this largest city in Morocco. Much more to come.

--Alex

Posted by Alex Safos at 1:41 PM | Permalink | Comments (3)

The plane has left the gate at JFK and sights are set on a Wednesday sunrise in North Africa. Let the Maroc journey commence. Check back for what should be fascinating dispatches from the field.

--Alex

Posted by Alex Safos at 1:42 AM | Permalink

The Morocco-bound travelers about to go through security at JFK for their flight to Casablanca, where they will meet the boys in the group.

Bon Voyage!

Posted by Global LAB at 1:38 AM | Permalink

In case you missed last week's historic speech, including references to Morocco's longstanding friendship with the US, check it out here:

Posted by Global LAB at 5:09 PM | Permalink

While not Morocco-specific, this article addresses the enduring misperceptions and stereotypes of Arabs and Muslims--and the role of greater awareness and understanding in debunking them.

===============

As the Myths Abound, So Does Islamic Outreach

By Eli Saslow
Washington Post Staff Writer
Wednesday, June 3, 2009

HARTFORD, Conn. -- Aida Mansoor expects a skeptical crowd for her diversity training class, so she arrives an hour early to create a reassuring atmosphere. She tapes serene posters of mountains and rivers to the walls of the Hartford Public Library and displays a stack of pamphlets emphasizing that, yes, "Muslims also love and respect Jesus." A snack table outside the room is divided into two sections, with homemade samosas on one half and generic sugar cookies from a local grocery on the other.

"We don't want to risk insulting anybody," says Mansoor, 41.

Seventeen years in this city, a house in the suburbs, almost a decade spent explaining Islam at training seminars across the state -- and still Mansoor walks on eggshells. Even in Hartford, a liberal city rich in diversity, practicing Islam in 2009 means she ignores the jokes about her hijab and dismisses the hate mail sent to her mosque. It means she spends a Thursday morning in late May standing here, a few steps inside the entrance to the library, repeating a Muslim greeting to 30 strangers as they file silently past. "Assalaam alaikum," she says, over and over, and then translates. "Peace be with you."

Her attempts at cross-cultural connection can sometimes feel futile, Mansoor says, but her energy this year has been fortified by a powerful new ally: President Obama, a Christian who has promised unprecedented outreach to the Muslim world. More than 85 percent of Muslims in the United States approve of Obama's performance as president, according to a recent Gallup poll, which is his strongest endorsement from any religious group. Obama will travel to Egypt to give a speech about Islam on Thursday, his attempt to bridge two cultures -- America and Islam -- so often at odds.

"What he says could go a long way toward dispelling the myths," Mansoor says. "For a long time, Muslims have been the bad guys in this country. There is so much hate and misunderstanding, and he might be able to help the world overcome some of it."

Before Obama hosts his global diversity seminar, Mansoor begins her local equivalent. Her class of 30 includes Christians, Jews, blacks, whites and Latinos. Most are here at the recommendation of their bosses. A nurse and a teacher were told that diversity training would help them interact with Muslim clients; a human-relations expert from the city of Hartford takes copious notes to share later with co-workers. Three representatives from the U.S. Census sit in the front row with a list of basic questions -- "How do you greet a Muslim? What are the Muslim holidays?" -- aimed to improve their 2010 survey.

Mansoor has enlisted help from a few Muslim panelists and Kashif Abdul-Karim, the resident imam at her mosque. She sits near the front of the room while Abdul-Karim begins the seminar with a question.

"What do you think of when you hear the word 'Muslim?' " he asks the students. In his hand, he carries a packet of statistics from the American Religious Identification Survey that offers some possible answers: 67 percent are younger than 40; 46 percent are college-educated; 12.4 percent are engineers. "Just shout out your answers," Abdul-Karim says, and the students oblige.

"Poor, uneducated immigrant."

"Arab!"

"Foreigner."

"Terrorist."

Mansoor watches intently, sensing a crossroads that will send the seminar in one of two directions. Maybe this will be one of the good sessions, when attendees exchange business cards and say, "Peace be with you," as they walk out the door. Or maybe it will be one of the bad sessions, such as when an attendee said he was surprised she spoke English, or a student undermined her by distributing fliers headlined, "What They're Hiding: The Real Islam."

The mother of two pre-teens, wife of a cardiologist and a recent participant in an American Patriots tour of Civil War battlefields, Mansoor had never planned to answer for so much hostility. Originally from Sri Lanka and raised in England, she moved to the United States in early 1992 and rarely spoke publicly about her faith to non-Muslims until Sept. 12, 2001. Hours after the terrorist attacks, a church in nearby Newington, Conn., invited Mansoor and her husband, Reza, to explain their faith to the Catholic congregation. The Mansoors asked for time to consider. A local imam had told all hijab-wearing women to stay in their homes for at least three weeks, and the local newspaper had printed a story about the possibility of Muslim internment camps.

"We were terrified, but we decided either we face this now or we pack up and leave," said Reza Mansoor, also originally from Sri Lanka. "If we were going to stay, we had to explain our faith. What was the other choice? To live in a country without self respect or dignity?"

The Mansoors walked into St. Mary's in Newington on Sept. 12 to eerie silence. They explained the basic tenets of their faith, condemned terrorism and left without incident. News of their visit spread to more churches, to more towns, and the Mansoors were transformed into accidental ambassadors.

If the passage of time has eased Aida Mansoor's timidity as a public speaker, it has done little to soften her audience. According to a recent Washington Post-ABC News poll, 29 percent of Americans see mainstream Islam as advocating violence and 48 percent have unfavorable views of Islam, the highest such percentage since 2001.

Mansoor's class includes Rickey Reed, a census worker in attendance because he wants to "know more about them beyond September 11th." Ken Steller, 63, came in part so he can educate friends who believe all Muslims are extremists. "In America, we hear one thing and assume it's that way for all Muslims," Steller says. "So many people just wait for the information to come to them. I like to go get it."

After Abdul-Karim finishes his introductory lecture at the library, Mansoor plays a series of media clips compiled during the past year. The 2008 presidential election, Mansoor says, revealed the worst of Islamophobia in the United States. "Anytime you turned on the TV, they were saying, 'You know, maybe Obama is a Muslim,' " she tells the class. "Well, first of all, he's not a Muslim. But more important: So what if he was? What's wrong with that?"

Mansoor turns out the lights and starts the projector, which the class takes as a cue to relax. The nurse pulls out her BlackBerry and types out an e-mail. The human-resources director for the City of Hartford doodles on her notepad. One of the census employees closes his eyes as Mansoor plays the first sound bite, from a broadcast of Michael Savage's radio show:

"We have a right to know if [Obama's] a so-called friendly Muslim or one who aspires to more radical teachings," Savage says.

Then comes a clip of Sen. John McCain at one of his campaign rallies, responding to a woman who asked whether Obama was Arab: "No ma'am," McCain says. "He's a decent, family man, citizen . . . ."

Eventually, Mansoor finishes with a video of an experiment conducted by a television station. The clerk at a bagel shop pretends to refuse service to a Muslim woman, and the camera focuses on other customers' responses. Three customers congratulate the clerk for taking a stand against "un-American terrorists." Several others leave the store in protest. One man, moved to tears, tells the clerk, "Every person deserves to be treated with respect, dignity."

Mansoor stops the tape and turns on the lights. She's crying. The attendees set down their pens and cellphones. They're watching now.

"This always brings tears to my eyes when I see it," Mansoor says. "This is what we face every day. Every day. Maybe it gives you a little bit of an idea what it must feel like. What are your reactions?"

Nobody speaks.

In a few minutes, Mansoor will begin to collect a stack of forms labeled "Professional Development Evaluation," on which attendees rate their experience in diversity training class. They will judge Mansoor's effectiveness on a scale of 1 to 4, and she will receive mostly 2s, for "satisfactory," and some 3s for "very good." But the feedback she cares most about is whatever happens next, standing in front of 30 strangers, teary-eyed, and waiting for somebody to respond.

Finally, Lillian Ruiz, the human-relations director, raises her hand.

"I think we need to stand up like we did in the 1950s," Ruiz said. "You watch things like this and it makes you want to just fight back and do something, because it's so sad. Obviously, discrimination is still very alive."

"Yes," Mansoor says. "Yes. Thank you."

Posted by Alex Safos at 12:08 AM | Permalink

Salaam!

I am so excited to meet all of you and experience Moroccan life together! My first few moments in Fes, hearing the call to prayer while waiting for my scalding hot, sweet mint tea to cool down, are some of my most vivid memories.

Morocco is a colorful swirl of action, and my favorite times there were when I simply got swept up in their way of life. I have attended weddings, been taken on secret tours through the medina, and been invited into countless homes and family occasions. Moroccans are eager to share their lives with newcomers, and I know we will be greeted with graciousness and warmth everywhere we go. You can look forward to making many friends in Morocco and through these friendships you will become deeply connected to a foreign country. My experiences also helped me to appreciate the forces of human reality that are not culture-bound, our hopes as people to connect, accept, and teach each other.

I graduated in May from the University of Mary Washington with a degree in Arabic and Linguistics, focusing on intercultural communication. I began my study of Arabic in 2006, and while I was initially interested in it as a language, that enthusiasm quickly expanded into a desire to understand the culture, which I was able to do through classes on Islam and Arab history. I was also lucky enough to be exposed to some French at an early age and have studied it for many years through high school and college, which certainly enriched and informed my understanding of communication between cultures.

During the summer of 2007 I was lucky enough to participate in a UMW program through which I was placed in a homestay in Fes. In high school I had a foreign exchange student brother from Germany, so I was familiar with the homestay experience and really enjoyed being on the other side of it. Living in a homestay means that every moment of your life becomes part of your cultural education, which is a wonderful feeling! On that trip, I also had the wonderful opportunity to study at ALIF, visit Marrakesh, Casablanca, and the Sahara, so I am familiar with many of the particular joys and challenges that we will experience together.

There is so much joy and many eye-opening experiences to be gained through travel, and I am happy that you have chosen to come with us as we make our world just a little bit bigger!

Until then,
Marie

Posted by Aaron Bos-Lun at 9:29 AM | Permalink