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I spoke with Tracy this morning and she reported that the group had arrived at the SECMOL school outside of Leh after a great stay in Domkhar village. Other than Justin suffering a minor ankle sprain on the volleyball court, all are well and enjoying time with the students at SECMOL. Tracy said the Internet was down for several days in Ladakh, but they are hoping to get some blog posts up before heading out on the trek in another few days.
John
I was told I have to blog.
I don’t have much to say.
I am finally over a rather literally gut wrenching illness which handicapped me from the ending of Domkhar until just today.
Unfortunately, for the final three days of home stays, I was bedridden and unable to eat much, but that does not taint the experience I had there at all.
Going into the experience, I was really nervous, and terribly anxious, and at times wanting to run to an airport and fly home, but of course… who would want to cop out. So, as shy and uncomfortable and awkward as I was, I managed to sit at meal times with a family of five. On the first night, I was sitting against the wall, drinking copious amounts of butter tea, and shrinking quickly into a fit of panic and fear, unsure if I was going to be able to deal with this new experience I had been thrust into. My mother, who was busy making dinner, turned to me right at the peak of an intense wave of anxiety, bordering slightly on an acute panic attack, and her face grew very concerned. She must have noticed my problem, because she frowned, stepped closer to me, and asked “Toilet?”. Yes, most definitely, toilet. At that moment, we acquired a bond that continued to grow through the course of my stay at their home. Her name was Angmo, and I was actually really sad when it was time to go. One night, I taught her how to play Go Fish. Now, to all American folk, I know that Go Fish is probably the easiest of all card games to learn how to play. However, due to language barriers and differences in culture that result in having no idea how to play any card games in the first place, teaching someone to play this was really hard. After about 20 minutes of explaining and re-explaining, she finally understood, and proceeded to thoroughly kick my butt. She is an incredible woman and I will never forget her. She told me that when I get home in December I have to call her, so that she could make sure I made it home safely.
My father, I am not sure of his name, he was very quiet and serious, and hardly made eye contact with me. I thought he could not speak a word of English due to the fact that we never spoke, but after a long, hot day of harvesting “cow’s grass” (hay) side by side in complete silence, we both stood up and he looked me straight in the eyes and said, in perfect English, “Thank you”, and then smiled. Epic.
My grandmother did not speak a word of English, and loved to shout fluent, quick sentences to me in Ladakhi which I could not understand at all, but we developed a mutual understanding and bond over the baby which lived in the household. He was a year old, and me and the grandmother would laugh together every time he did something ridiculous, like threw something across the room that beforehand he was so desperate to have in his possession, etcetc.
The baby and I also had a very interesting relationship. When his mother or grandmother were around, he would cry and moan and desperately do everything he could for their attention, but once they got fed up in not knowing how to satisfy him and left the room, he would slowly turn his head to me and start laughing. Awesome.
And then there was Angmo’s sister. Her name was Stenzin, and she was 19, and soon going to be off to college to study art. She was very quiet and shy, like almost all Ladakhi girls, but we developed a sisterly bond. She is my age, but she is one of the most incredible 19 year olds I have ever met. She cooked most of the meals, she harvested most of the crops, she took care of the baby most of the time, she took care of other family’s babies, she washed most of the clothes, she did almost everything around the house AND went to school every day. Wow.
So, I don’t know what else to say. I grew to love the children at Domkhar High School, and I really enjoyed my time with them playing games and singing songs. They are very sweet kids, like all of the kids I have met thus far here in India. I have a new, relearned love and appreciation for children, which is cool.
But other than that, I am not sure how I feel. I feel good I’m sure of that, but not as explosive with emotion as I did in the beginning of the trip. However, we leave on trek tomorrow, and I know that that will most definitely ignite some very serious whatevers and whatnots inside me. But who knows. I sure don’t. All I know is that I am here, in India, at a school called SECMOL which I am really loving and don’t want to leave just yet, with a bunch of people I am really growing to love a lot.
So much love, I guess.
So, yea, I think of all of you back at home often. You are constantly in my conversations and thoughts and most definitely in my dreams, which have been crazy might I add. And I love you all so much, so so so much. And I will see you soon And feel free to use the comment option to blog about your lives, I really want to know how all of you are doing. And I want to hear from all of you. So, seriously, comment, don’t just read.
Ok, it’s lunch time, and they made chow mein. Which is fantastic.
Ok, So, Love ya.
Peace out,
Mirise.
Ps, I guess the second line of this post was a lie, I did have much to say.
Jullay!
We spent a wonderful day exploring connections with the youth of Domkhar at the local government high school (High school means classes 1 - 10 and government means public). We engaged in conversations about cultural differences, played local games, and performed our best accapella rendition of "The Lion Sleeps Tonight" including a thrilling representation of actual lions by Wade and Justin that playfully frightened the school children into giggles.
Yesterday, we spent the afternoon on Namgial's fields harvesting buckwheat, then carrying the bundles of stalks up to the shucking place on the rooftop of his brother's house. The harvesting was accompanied by lots of laughter, breaks for tea and biscuts, and crop circles in the shape of hearts which reminded me of Harrison's beard-art from last spring.
Everyone seems to be settling in with their homestay families - enjoying learning more Ladakhi language, song and dance, and fending off small children who like to climb all over you. We're all taking this opportunity to connect more deeply with Ladakhi village culture, and sharpen our backgammon skills. We love Domkhar!
Tomorrow, we spend the day with our families and meet up in the afternoon for our second Hindi language class of many. Justin and I are looking forward to a walk up to the high pasture of Domkhar where we can test our skills at breathing air even LESS full of oxygen than at this 9,000ft above sea level. We'll get some good views of the surrounding peaks and hopefully have some images to share when we get back to Leh and have fast internet connections.
Hope all is well stateside!
Tracy and Justin
Wade contemplates the Wheel of Life at Lama Yuru Monastery
Oh boy, Oh boy- how I yearn to milk a Yak. Tomorrow the group sets out for the village of Domkhar, a five hour automobile trip away. Apparently, we will be able to choose between a public bus or jeep-esque vehicle for the excursion. I can't say that I have much of an opinion concerning that. It is in Domkhar that we will all begin our first home stays, which has individuals within the group either giddy with excitement or weighted down with fear. I'm not quite sure which category I fall into, as my attitude towards the upcoming experience fluctuates constantly. I simply want to be able to connect with my family there and have a good ol' time. I can see it now: My goofy self in the center of a Ladakhi household, sipping on sweet butter tea, ruining dinner in the kitchen, or giggling with the family child. I'm oh so very excited.
I just want to milk a yak and rest my head against it's heaving body during the process.
I could even make a butter sculpture using Yak's milk that I've extracted myself!
That's all an American boy could ask for.
With everlasting love,
Wa De-Ji
P.S. Expect a Yak poem upon my return to a place that sports an internet connection.
P.S.S. Familiarize yourself with this majestic creature while I'm gone:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/YAK
Greetings Planet Earth, it's 3:45 PM India time which means it's 6:15 AM in the land of my birth and 10:15 AM in the land of my comrades. It has been ten days since we first met in the backwoods of New Jersey and has been seven days since we arrived in India. There are still roughly one thousand nine hundred and ninety (1990) hours left in this trip. We started out with eleven people not including Tracy and Justin. We lost one before we even left for India, and by tomorrow we will have lost two more, both for reasons which out of respect I will not elaborate upon. That leaves eight out of eleven, that is beyond decimation, which literally means to lose one out of ten. Shit. The frequency might be courage, but right now I'm feeling a whole lot of sadness. It's a selfish sadness, after all I'm still here, again I'm not elaborating out of respect. But, really...shit. Shit. S-h-i-t, would accurately describe my emotional well being, I'm holding back tears as I type this, it might be because there are two beautiful Ladahki girls sitting next to me and I'm too embarrassed to, but believe me I want to cry. I was reading some Kurt Vonnegut today, he talked about how laughter and crying are essentially similar emotional responses because we resort to them when we feel absolutely helpless in a situation. I don't feel like laughing, I might later but I don't now. Laughing is good for your health, crying is too. I guess that means crying from laughter is about as healthy an activity as you can participate in...well I can still make jokes, even if they are not funny. The frequency is courage. There is a humorous back story to that, I suggest you Wikipedia it for a good laugh. Wikipedia is really slow here, it means I can't read about Scientology to cheer myself up. I understand the Marriott hotel in Islamabad no longer exists, I also understand Russia is to play "war games" off the coast of Venezuela...it's nice to know the world really has its priorities in order. Shit. Screw ending poverty, let's blow some shit up, I feel that is an appropriate motto not only for the nation of Russia, but for most other nations. God bless Iceland, they don't have an "armed forces," three cheers for Sweden too, they've given up on this horseshit as well. If there is one lesson to be learned from this blog post, it is that upstanding domestic and foreign policy results in the birth of extremely beautiful human beings, I speak of course of Denmark and Finland and Iceland and Norway and Sweden. Three cheers for Scandinavia! Wow, this is sure related to India. The two beautiful Ladahki girls have left...I can start crying now. Oh well, that's it for now. Don't worry about me too much Mom and Dad, I'll be fine, most everyone here is an absolutely beautiful human being, they tend to respect crying...and laughter.
We'll meet again, don't know where don't know when.
-Doug B.
Wade said it, not me, but I figured it was fitting for a title.
Tomorrow we leave for Domkhar where homestays and short-term ISPs await. I am absolutely thrilled. It still hasn't even been a week yet and it already feels as though several lifetimes have passed. Ladakh is so rich, you can feel it with every oxygen deprived breath, every slow and steady step.
I cannot recall another time in my life where I have felt so artistically inspired. Everything I see somehow communicates this language to my spirit, igniting or awakening this intense artistic desire and passion that has been sleeping for too long. All I feel inclined to do is explore, photograph, write, draw. As many of you may know, this past year has been quite difficult for me in the creative sense. To remember why I love to create...
This may sound really lame, and Mom I know you will love it, but this is the truth. Sorry for being a sappy sap face.
I cannot describe the way that I feel, but it closely parallels incredible. Not yet ecstatic, but it is only the first week.
I am beyond excited to continue this journey, and to further uncover what greatness is left within these next 3 months.
Wow.
Ok.
ridiculous.
:)
Love you all exponentially,
Mirise
Greetings from the high altitudes- 3200 meters to give a rough estimate,
Life is peaceful here in the serene Indus River Valley, despite the perpetual chaos present in the group dynamic. I speak of a positive chaos, if you can imagine that. So many interesting folks constantly in close proximity, experiencing this tumultuous introduction into a foreign culture together- this is a situation that is bound to produce a hectic energy. Our western circus troupe of 12 has managed to tap into the force successfully and direct it's unruly nature towards productive bonding, exploration, and a rapid intake of Eastern knowledge. We could easily be compared to historic British explorers, venturing into blank spots on the map- you know, the sort with outlandish facial hair and funny names like Chester A. Witherspoon. The only exception in this comparison is that we generally make it a rule not to massacre the natives of the exotic locations we travel through.
On that note, I think I speak for everyone when I say that interaction with the local Indians has been absolutely delightful so far. From our run ins with handy-dandy transportation agent Amit and his brother Gaurav in madhouse metropolis Delhi to wise guide Namgyal and the prince of tea, Sonam, in pristine Ladakh, there has been something to learn in our time spent with those that inhabit this curious nation.
As much as I would love to speak about Delhi, the domain of spice, sweat, and exhilarating traffic, I'll save my thoughts concerning the place until we once again find ourselves in the midst of it's unique hustle and bustle. Besides, my good friend Doug undoubtedly has much more to say in regards to that populous city. As you may already know, the group is now spending it's time in Leh, an agricultural center turned tourist hot spot nestled in the foothills of the mighty Himalayans. This area has made a profound impact on us all, it seems, and rightly so, as it is quite an interesting place. Jammu and Kashmir, the country that Ladakh is a part of, is a source of conflict between India, Pakistan, and China in terms of it's borders. Apparently everyone wants a piece of this rather remote pie. Although the fight rages far from where we are currently residing, one cannot help but notice the firearm toting soldiers hanging around town and the fighter jets wailing through the surrounding airspace. Let me say that just yesterday I had the pleasure of observing a fancy military auto cruising down a Leh street as I shivered outside of a laundromat. This convalescent gem of a vehicle made the other cars look as primitive as horse drawn carriages. Joining the fight must be a bit more lucrative than the provincial farming practice.
Aside from nasty border disagreement business, there is a wonderful Tibetan Buddhist tradition to be found here and Leh itself is a prime example of the effects of modernization and growth on previously small self sustaining communities, which is definitely a topic that I'm not used to thinking about. Before I abandon this blog entry and sever all communication with my familiars back at home or those tracking the blog for some three weeks, let me just say that one aspect of Indian culture which was prevalent in Delhi has touched me deeply. The element of Indian culture that I find to be extremely foxy is the acceptance of exporting snot and congestion freely in public. "These are my people!", I exclaimed, upon confirming this fact of daily life with someone who knew the culture more intimately. What relief! A disgusting intolerance for blowing boogers and expectorating phlegm- NON EXISTENT! This may seem trivial or undeserving of such praise to some, but for a fellow plagued with throat drip goo like myself, it is truly a beacon of hope.
Sincerely,
Wa De-Ji
P.S. Backgammon is my new favorite hobby. I'm almost ashamed that it took exposure to a noble culture such as the one that I am immersed in at the moment to revive my inherent instinct to play the ancient game. Americans have unfortunately repressed the Backgammon skill that we all, as human beings, possess.
P.S. I don't care about the controversy surrounding Sathya Sai Baba. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sathya_Sai_Baba">That man has irrefutable style.
While material resources such as hand sanitizer or toilet paper or soap might seem like the most indispensable things we carry with us on this journey, the most treasured resources lay untapped within us. I realize that is a very weak lead-in, blame the public school system if you must. Today I've come to realize a message which may well prove invaluable in the days to come: The Frequency is Courage (a la Dan Rather). The courage which we will all need to tackle the hardships we will face lies within us, it is just waiting to be tapped. It provides us a means to do the simple and the extraordinary. From trying new foods to walking the 3.5 kilometers between the Sheh and Thiksey monasteries or taking the hundreds of stairs to the top of Thiksey monastery when a jeep could have taken you...the frequency is courage. Whether we are facing our innermost demons or our apprehensions about not using toilet paper...the frequency is courage. To Natalie's annoyance, when things have gotten really tough I've made a habit of saying 'death could not come quick enough.' No more! From now on I solemnly promise when I feel that 'death could not come quick enough' I shall instead declare that the frequency is courage. She will likely come to detest that as well, too bad for her, I like the way it sounds. The frequency is courage, put that on a bumper sticker god dammit! On an unrelated note, we are heading to Domkhar tomorrow to begin our home stays. There is no internet, also known as a series of tubes, in Domkhar so don't be worried Mom if there are no posts for a week or two. That's all for now, and remember, when hardships arise...the Frequency is Courage!
We'll meet again, don't know where don't know when.
-Doug B.
Greetings, it's 6:13 PM in Leh, which means it's 8:43 AM in the US and 12:43 PM in Morocco. I don't have much time so this one will be a quickie. Today we climbed (walked/staggered/crawled) up a mountain on the outskirts of Leh. At the summit, 3700 meters up, is the original royal palace of the Namgil dynasty. There we were given a quick history lesson on Ladakh as well as a crash course on prayer flags and stuppas by our local contact Namgil (no relation to the royal family). While we were up there, an Indian air force C-141 Starlifter happened to fly over. I just sneezed, gesundheit, any way, a single dog had made its home at the top of that mountain...I feel there is some hidden meaning in that, I've yet to figure it out, will let you know when I do. From what few newspaper headlines I've seen it looks as though the world is falling apart, what else is new. That's it for now.
We'll meet again, don't know where don't know when.
-Doug B.
I’m trying to write a blog post but these obnoxious people keep talking! Justin (one of our Program Directors) is telling us where babies come from. He said that babies come from snow leopard eggs that are distributed across the five continents by the great garuda, a pregnant tiger, and a yeti.
You can’t get bedtime stories like this at home.
Anyways, India rocks, blah blah blah, I’m sure others have addressed that. Other people probably mentioned how awesome the terrible movie we watched last night was. What I don’t think others have told you about is an ancient game that me and a few others have rediscovered. I’m talking, of course, about backgammon.
Backgammon is the most ancient game known to man. It’s a game of conquering that which lies within. All you need to play is courage, dexterous fingers, and a trusty bar of soap. Backgammon can be played alone, or with a friend. I’ve played twice, and Wade-Ji (pronounced Wad-ee-gee) has played twice, but we have yet to play together.
Now, I know that many of you will not understand the kind of backgammon I’m talking about. You won’t read about it in any paper. But, backgammon cannot be explained in mere words or with a motion of your left hand. It’s a game that can only be played by the brave, the humble, and the desperate.
But, backgammon is a great, great game. And when a man is up to his wrist in glorious victory, having flushed out all opposition, he discovers a freedom that he never knew before. A freedom that can only be obtained in the murky, yet mysterious depths of India.
Sincerely,
Tim (missing his dogs but definitely not his parents)
I’m sure other people have written about how beautiful Leh is, but I just have to add that it’s SPECTACULAR. I’ve barely taken any pictures of the landscape, because I don’t think that I’ll be able to do it justice. There are thousands of flowers and trees everywhere. As Tracy put it, they’re all the most beautiful that you’ve ever seen. The mountains are incredible and every morning, they’re even more snow-peaked. I’ve been listening to “The Sound of Music,” because it seems to fit the mood :) All of us are so happy and peaceful here.
We have been sleeping a lot these past few days to adjust to the altitude, so yesterday, Natalie and I woke up around 5:00 AM. We went into the tea room and watched the sun rise while I was reading and she was drawing (her drawings are incredible!). The morning is such a great time of day- I’ll have to start waking up earlier at home!
In a couple of days, we’re going to Domkhar and we won’t have a chance to e-mail.
Hope everything’s going well for all of our friends and family at home!
(I LOVE India)
Kate
Hello (I know everyone else said Julley...), it's 12:15 PM India time, which means it is 2:45 AM in the US and 6:45 AM in Morocco. This little collection of electrons is coming from the Himalayan Cyber Cafe in Leh, Ladakh. This land of mountains and MIG-29's is a close to paradise as I have ever come. On an interesting note, it is a blissful fusion of my interest in Buddhism and a simple relaxed life style coupled with my long standing fascination of military hardware...it's somewhat of a paradox. When we got off the plane at Leh Airport/Airbase Tracy said something like half of all people in Kashmir are with the military, it's safe to say she was right. Standing on the tarmac, my eye was drawn to radars, parked MIG-29 fighters, and what looked to be a C-141 Starlifter coming in to land. The morning seems to be the height of military activity, as throughout the wee hours of the day the placid air is ripped apart by the silhouettes of MIG-29's and SU-27's roaring through the sky on full afterburner, no doubt participating in the aerial ballet between the Pakistani, Indian, and Chinese air forces which is as much a part of life here as the cacophony of dog's at night or the Westerners looking for their next adrenaline fix. Hey, it's not like there is terrible poverty or some other problem which needs the money...I'm in no position to criticize, after all, the US does spend more on "defense" than every other country on Earth combined (about $700,000,000,000 in 2007). I hate to end on such a somber note, so I won't. At the Kidar Guest house, where we are staying, there is a young boy named Sonam. If there is hope for the world, he is it...I'm a close second.
We'll meet again, don't know where don't know when.
-Doug B
P.S. Mom and Dad I got both your e-mails.
P.P.S. I swear I saw a collie on the way from the airport to Kidar Guest house, that made my day along with everything else in this Shangri-la.
By Sam Henderson
Red.
Poodle.
Blue.
Chihuahua.
Green.
Mastiff.
Orange.
Shiatsu.
RED!
POODLE!
Yell Lab
Golden Retriever
Purple cosmic space sheep dog
Shoulders touchfingers connect like ET
Black Collie
We begin to understand
And respect
We are patient
We are ready!
Jullay!!
A good friend told me that Leh had a magnificence that was difficult to describe. Well, they hit the nail on the head. It is breath taking, both physically and emotionally, and because of this, it is difficult to put into words what is occurring. But, I am going to try anyways…
As we sat around Choktse’s (traditional Ladakhi tables in which you eat from on the ground) and ate our breakfast today, the students shared about the overall energetic difference between Delhi and Ladakh; the emotional release many of them felt as we walked off the plane and into this new world. Delhi offered us loads of opportunities to explore the rich cultural history of the Indian people, as well as contemporary Indian cultural and Ladakh is providing us with peace and ease to reflect a bit on where we are and what we are here to do.
It is amazing to think that we have traveled from small town New Jersey to the Jama Masjid (the largest Mosque in India) in Delhi and now to Ladakh, a hidden kingdom for much of history, in the span of five days. Our time together thus far has been invigorating and it seems as if each turn we take provides some new experience to strengthen the bonds between each other. In the coming days we will be exploring both urban and rural Ladakhi life, engaging with local people to learn about their customs and exploring some of the foothills that surround this mountain city, but until then, we rest, preparing for another leg of our journey together.
I hope you all are well and appreciate you following us during our time in India.
That is all for now,
Justin
Leh, Ladakh September 18, 2008
By Sam Henderson
I am one with the mountains, a place I feel safe, a place that feels like home.
I can be who I choose in the mountains.
Mountains do not judge.
I do not judge anyone or anything in the mountains.
They have strength and power yet if you treat the mountains with respect they can bring you peace and love.
Hi Everyone,
Sandy here. I haven’t read all the other blog entries, so apologies if I repeat things that have already been said.
It’s wonderful here. Delhi is so full of energy. The traffic is crazy. Everything is very hodgepodge, and helter skelter out the wazoo.
We went shopping at FabIndia a few days ago (which Tracy describes as the Indian equivalent of the GAP). We’re all decked out in our salwar kameezes. It’s fantastic. We still stick out like sore thumbs, I know, but it feels like we’re less conspicuous, and maybe the confidence that comes with that feeling makes it slightly more true. Plus they’re super excitingly beautiful.
We flew to Ladakh yesterday. It is stunning here. Everyone was breathless when we landed (and not just because of the altitude), and smiling just to be surrounded by this atmosphere. It’s beautiful—both the place itself, and to see how much everyone’s eyes light just to be in it. It’s incredible to look out across the mountains, and while most of the environment is arid and brown and dry, Leh itself (the city we’re in) is beautiful and lush(-er), built around a river. (You could see the dramatically distinct patch of green as we flew in). The guest house has the most beautiful garden, and there are these trees, that are enormously tall and reach straight up to the sky, with white trunks that I want to call stems, and dotted with light green leaves on delicate, vertical branches that shiver like glitter when the wind blows. It seems like something a child would doodle from imagination in the margin of a notebook.
The air is brisk and crisp, and it smells like the air when we go up to New Hampshire for Thanksgiving. I guess I won’t be completely missing fall.
The people are so wonderful and smiley. There is an 11 (I think?) year old boy who works here at the guest house. He is so eager to serve us, and takes such good care of us. Yesterday during dinner I went to fill up my water bottle: he saw me from the other end of the hall, said “Oh my god,” and rushed over to take the task from my hands. He smiles endlessly, says “thank you” back after we thank him, and brings us chai to no end. (ILOVECHAIILOVECHAIILOVECHAI- it’s subtle..).
Hindi lesson of the day: Mere chai atchi lakti he (-ish? I think?). (Literally: to me chai good is).
It reminds me of back home (away from home) in A.P., which I miss like a motherflippin. I wrote a letter to my Monpa babies yesterday afternoon (Sonam read it over my shoulder—his English is great and he’s so enthusiastic—and helped me spell place names right, and write Tashi Delek in Tibetan).
There are a million windswept and sun-bleached prayer flags adorning the whole town, and a haphazard ladder made out of logs, nailed together and tied with mismatched cloth and rope, leading up to the roof from where you can see everything. The architecture is so open. I could there for hours.
Today we’re going to walk around the town some, I do believe, and in a few days will be going to Domkhar to do village homestays for a week and a bit.
I’m having a wonderful time. Hope college is going excitingly for everyone there,
Love you all lots,
and lots and lots,
<3 sandy
By Sam Henderson
I feel
Alive
I feel happiness
I feel in touch with my inner self
Feelings I’ve never experienced
I feel
For the first time in my life
Like I am one with nature
And my surroundings
I feel
Another smile overcoming me
And another and another
I can’t stop smiling
Or feeling so happy
I feel freed from my past
The future is of no concern
Only the present
Only that, which surrounds me
I smell, smells like wood, leaves, flowers and fresh air
I smell nature
I smell myself being set free like
A bird from a cage
I fell like air, not light headed
But as if there is no weight on my shoulders
And whatever weight there was
Is gone forever
I’ve never breathed air so pure
I feel at home with myself
Every flower has a different and unique smell
The white mountains all around me
Yet not all are white
Some are brown and sandy
The peaks jagged and steep.
View from Leh, across the Indus River valley
Hey y’all,
The first blog post of hopefully many. I’m not quite sure what to write about, so ima wing this. Bear with me. We are now in Leh, the capitol of Ladakh. It’s the only major city in the entirety of the state, if you can even refer to this as a city. It is breathtaking. Surrounded by the Himalayas no matter which way you look out. Snowy high peaks, rougher and more epic than any mountain I have ever seen. Unfortunately, we do not get the opportunity to summit any of these mountains (apparently it takes a lot of skill), but one of our coordinators here, Namgyal, owns a company that sends people out on treks through the Himalayas to summit mountains. That might be something I’ll have to come back and do with a buddy or two. These mountains are way too incredible for me not to climb atleast one in my lifetime, and now I know someone that would arrange such an adventure for me. Plus, I am absolutely in love with Leh. I have never been any place so quiet and peaceful and beautiful and calm in my entire life. It is such a drastic difference compared to Delhi, the city we just left. Congested, loud, crowded, crazy traffic, but incredible as well. Although all of those adjectives describe Delhi, I have never been in a city where everybody was so happy. Children were always running through the streets, laughing and smiling and playing. They were all so intrigued by us, watching what we do but not in a rude way at all. They were all so curious and it was beautiful, atleast to me.
But now we are in Leh. And we are about to eat breakfast. And I don’t really have much to say, I am just really happy and so grateful to be here. I prefer the slow, quiet way of life up here in the mountains to the loud craziness of Delhi. The lack of oxygen is definitely getting to all of our heads, and laughing fits have become a regular thing.
I am having so much fun. And I am so in love with all of my new friends. I’m excited to see where the rest of this journey takes us; it hasn’t even been a week yet and I already love every place I’ve been, and am so close to each and every member of this Global Lab community.
To everyone back at home, I love you and have been thinking of you often. I hope all is well and I will be making phone calls as soon as I can. I’m not quite sure when that’ll be, but hopefully soon.
Julley (Ladakhi for hello, goodbye, thank you, etcetcetc. Basically the universal word),
Mirise
There was a lot of culture shock upon reaching Delhi, such as the socially accepted spitting and snorting (watch where you step), or the unavailability of toilet paper in most bathrooms. Also, the traffic is at once the most terrifying and hilarious thing I’ve ever experienced. Traffic lanes are just a suggestion- people weave in and out of lanes, straddle the line, lean on the horn or, in the case of one of our drivers, lean down and switch on the siren (which no one acknowledges) to warn people that they are coming through whether or not they like it. Surprisingly, no one dies. It’s quite impressive.
The food here is AMAZINGGG. I have heartily enjoyed every meal here, with the one exception of the fried rice with bits of uncooked globby chicken in it. I don’t really understand how all their food is always so good. Maybe because it’s real? We are all addicted to chai tea by now. I think Sam is on his sixth cup of the morning right now. The music is also fantastic- every song I hear is so catchy and danceable. There seems to be a preoccupation with American rappers though. It’s a bit disorienting to turn on the radio and hear “Yo, this is big Snoop D-O-double-G.” It doesn’t stop us from turning every ride into a dance party, though.
I really liked Delhi, but that was before we got to Ladakh. Ladakh is the most beautiful place on earth- when we got off the plane, we had a 360 view of mountains and blue sky. It took our breath away. Or that might have been the lack of oxygen. In my opinion, all the high altitude symptoms I’ve been dealing with- a constantly parched throat, quickened heart rate and trouble catching my breath- are completely worth the view I got to wake up to this morning. Then again, I’m pretty well off compared to the rest of the group- a few people have gotten really sick and others have headaches.
But I could really just sit and watch the scenery the entire day.
Ari
Tracy sent a report from the Himalaya this morning: the group had a smooth flight from Delhi up to Leh, where they are spending the day resting and acclimating to the altitude, enjoying the crisp temperatures after Delhi's sweltering heat, and looking forward to watching a film on Ladakhi culture this evening. She said folks are also working on some blog posts to share their impressions of the first days of the semester, so stay tuned for more.
John
(NYC)
Namaste Friends and Families,
We are all well and engaged as we start our second morning here in India. As always, India has settled powerfully in our psyches during our first hours, and the students have reacted with poise, patience, depth, strength, and courage. This country continues to be the catalyst and main teacher for us as we take our small steps forward exploring Delhi.
Yesterday, we had a full day driving around in sweltering Delhi traffic listening to the latest Bollywood tunes brought to us by our wonderful local coordinators Amit and Gaurav. We tried new foods, drank lots of chai, learned about Indira Gandhi and her son Rajiv and how they shaped the political and social history of this country. We also visited the site where Mahatma Gandhi spent his last hours of his life. A highlight, as well, proven by our sharp attire this morning as we all emerged from our rooms for the first chai of the day, was our visit to the ready-made salwar kameez store - Fab India (photos to come!).
I'm encouraged and inspired by the hour with the students - families and friends, I'm thanking you for letting Justin and me borrow these amazing people from your lives for three months! I'm already a better person for knowing each and every one of them.
Stay tuned to the blog for more updates as we explore Old Delhi today and share iftar for Ramadan tonight after sunset with a good friend.
Be well,
Tracy
Namaste everyone, it's 10:16 AM in India, which means it's 12:47 AM in the US and 4:47 AM in Morocco. We leave for Ladakh tomorrow. Delhi has been intense (that is an understatement to say the least). I'm having a fantastic time, but it hasn't just been shits and giggles. Yesterday brought a lot of uncomfortable realities and feelings to bare. I came to India thinking I could stomach the injustice I would see, I thought my emotional walls could withstand it but, pardon the analogy, they came crashing down faster than the US stock market. I had a feeling that I would be the first person to cry in India...I was right. As everyone on the trip knows, I'm awful at hiding my emotions. A few one on one discussions as well as council last night brought those emotions full circle. I'm still having difficulties dealing with the poverty, as my family knows well, I'm somebody who tends to feel things with every fiber of my being, not to say that I am somehow more morally righteous than anyone else, just more likely to let it affect me. By the way Dad, what you said, about the first days being the hardest has proven invaluable, without your words of comfort I would be in some very deep emotional shit. But, thanks to you, and the kind words of Justin and Tracy, Kate, Natalie, Sam, Jake, Wade, Tim, Sandy, Ari, and Marisa I have a hovercraft of love with which to pilot across this waterway of intense emotion. Not to say I don't feel it now, by Odin's beard do I feel it, I'm just not being engulfed by it. On a happier note, this may be the most amazing group of human beings I've ever encountered in my sheltered 18 years of existence. And now for Kurt Vonnegut allusion number #17 of the trip. In Cat's Cradle the religion of Bokononism talks of special groups of people called a Karass, which Wikipedia defines as: a group of people who, often unknowingly, are working together to do God's will. The people can be thought of as fingers in a Cat's Cradle. I don't know if we're that magical, but it feels as though our whole lives are inextricably linked, I like to think of us as the Megazord from Power Rangers, each of us being an individual zord, all of us being indespensible if we are to form the Megazord and survive this physical, emotional, and spiritual crucible. I think that's it for now, I still have so much kicking around in my head but I'll save it for another time.
We'll meet again, don't know where don't know when.
-Doug B.
P.S. Mom, Dad, Bek, and Jessie, being 12,000 kilometers away has really helped me to realize just how much I love each of you, even if you can be really annoying.
P.P.S. Apparently, I'm the funny kid on the trip, who knew!
Hi friends and family, it’s currently 12:13 AM India time, which means its 2:43 PM in the US and 6:43 PM in Morocco. India is different in so many ways, whether it be the smells or the anarchy of the road way or simply the 16 different knobs in the bathroom, it is both intimidating and enthralling. I’ll admit some of the first feelings I had after getting off the plane were of home, the familiarity, the comforts, my dog Jessie…at times I found myself questioning my very existence. What was I doing so far from home, why did I ever think I could even make it here for three months, is this actually happening, what the hell was I thinking? Then we got on the “party bus” and were on the way to the hotel with our local contact Ahmit leading the way. The sights of shantytowns next to construction sights, whole families sleeping next to the side of the road, construction everywhere, barbed wire and concrete barricades surround buildings and apartment complexes…to be honest I was waiting for a horde of zombies to come rushing out of the jungle darkness. At least the humidity was familiar. Then we had a sort of informal council, over the course of which my fears and apprehensions melted away as I drank cup after cup of the most delicious chai. But I’m still carrying some emotional baggage; I can’t stop thinking of all the friends I made who are currently in Morocco. It was such a truly Shakespearean twist of fate to create such deep bonds and to be ripped apart just as those bonds were blossoming into beautiful friendships. I’d especially like to thank Tessa for lending me an apple on the train, you have no idea how much better that apple made me feel after that awful bus ride. If only we could’ve stayed together on our trip. I guess that’s it for now.
We’ll meet again, don’t know where don’t know when
-Doug B.
Hi All,
Tracy sent us a text message confirming that the group arrived safe and sound in Delhi and will be resting up at their guest house before heading out to explore the capital.
John
A van to a bus to a train to a plane and they are off, following a terrific group orientation at Cross Roads Retreat Center. Stay tuned for updates from India here on the group blog.
Coming together in the yurt for a group council, Morocco and India students share their hopes and concerns and excitement about the upcoming international adventure.
Isabella and Jake seeking balance
Tracy and Kempie at peak performance
Things I am leaving behind:
My addiction to my cell phone. My addiction to the internet. All my vices, really, like omnipresent coffee, facebook, makeup, silly clothes, instant gratification in all manners of shapes and sizes. These are things I formerly and hyperbollically thought I could not live without, but once separated from them, I do feel lighter and more content. However, the separation from my family and friends was, on the train at least, not as easy to deal with. (The amazing people and new friends I have found here help a lot though.)
Things I am bringing with me:
Forty pounds of gear, either crammed into or hanging off of an orange backpack almost as big as I. Pictures of people who I care about, and who care about me. The good wishes and support that these people have given me, too. I am bringing a fountain pen that leaves stains on my right thumb and middle finger, a fancy leather notebook, and all my writerly pretensions. I am bringing 8 GB of music and 14 GB of camera memory. I am bringing Doug Bernstein, who shares a hometown and 12 years of school acquaintance with me.
Also with me I bring a sense of adventure, and bundles of preconceived notions I won't even notice I have until they are shattered.
I am having a wonderful time already, although I can't wait to get to India and start living like I've never lived before! I love everyone I've met- the place is brimming with optimism, enthusiasm and friendship. It's a shame that we'll lose half of the group here to Morocco, but I really appreciate the chance to have made contact with such amazing people first.
Shy yet open
everyone lingers
people talk yet,
souls are still timid
two groups unite as one
one rhythm beats
our heart is the bass drum
the one continuous beat,
that never stops
people aren't so shy
not now, not now
that we have been
broken in, like an
old pair of smelly sneakers.
We dance and frolic
fearful and happy
We dance, as ONE
Hey,
We are all still together and having a great time, even though we are in New Jersey. A bunch of us on the train from Newark to High Bridge got a bunch of strange looks after replying to the question "Where are you going?" with Morocco/India. One guy countered with, "India's cool, I guess."
Terese and Richard Bernstein I am still alive (along with everyone else).
Peace.
The chai and chocolate chip cookies are good.
John, Justin, Harrison, Galen, Kempie, Sharon, Sammer, Alex, Tracy
We are eagerly awaiting the India and Morocco semester students arrival later today after having enjoyed a productive and fun staff retreat here at Cross Roads.
After all the students have arrived here we'll post another message. If anyone needs to contact us before flight departures on Sunday, please call Global LAB's 800 number.
Here's to a safe and rewarding cross-cultural adventure in the months ahead.
Global LAB Program Directors