May 8, 2008

India Semester Overview: Sept. 12 - Dec. 14, 2008

Go! Go forth to India and live! There's nothing that I've done that has been more expanding, more eye-opening, and more exciting all at once. I'd recommend this experience to anyone looking to learn a little about themselves and the world, but more about the vastness of all that there is to be learned, and the pleasure of learning it experientially.
--Julia Bloch, "From Brahma to Buddha" India semester alumna

indiasemsplash.jpg

Whenever I meet a ‘foreigner’, I always have the same feeling: ‘I am meeting another member of the human family.’ This attitude has deepened my affection and respect for all beings. May this natural wish be my small contribution to world peace. I pray for a more friendly, more caring, and more understanding human family on this planet. To all those who dislike suffering, who cherish lasting happiness, this is my heartfelt appeal.
--Tenzin Gyatso, the XIV Dalai Lama of Tibet

Exploring a traditional village perched on the Tibetan Plateau. Sipping butter tea around a kitchen fire. Smelling jasmine flowers and curries sold in the bazaar. Listening to horns and bells echo over ancient monastery walls. Watching colorful prayer flags blowing in the wind on top of a Himalayan mountain pass. Throughout this cultural immersion program, we will live and study in the country that gave birth to two of the world’s major religions—Hinduism and Buddhism—and will travel amid some of the most spectacular landscapes on earth. On this journey, we will meet many of the people who keep ancient traditions and spiritual practices alive, including possible audiences with the Dalai Lama and/or the Karmapa. And at the same time we will witness and study the forces of modernization and globalization that are influencing all aspects of traditional ways of life. Though it is impossible to predict the most memorable experience you will have during the Global LAB India semester, those who choose to participate can expect to embark on a journey of discovery that may well last a lifetime.

Continue reading "India Semester Overview: Sept. 12 - Dec. 14, 2008" »

Application Information

2008 India Fall Semester Tuition is $9,845. Tuition includes residential pre-trip orientation in the US; preparatory and educational materials; dedicated student website for program communications and resources; all logistical facilitation; all hotels and guest houses; all meals; all domestic air fares/taxis/buses/trains/boats; museum, park and temple entrance fees; Global LAB faculty and instruction as well as local coordinators, cooks, porters; all program elements (independent study projects and apprenticeships, community service projects, home-stays, guest lectures, community support/charitable contributions).

Please note: Additional expenses not covered by Global LAB include r/t international airfare and costs of domestic travel to point of departure (NYC), inoculations, travel insurance and international medical and evacuation insurance; visa/passport processing fees; personal costs (laundry, phone calls/emails, souvenirs, etc.).

Semesters are open to those ages 17-21. While Global LAB semesters are geared toward interim or ‘gap’ year students, high school seniors as well as university students are welcome to apply. No language prerequisite is required.

Global LAB accepts applications on a rolling admissions basis, accepting qualified applicants until programs are full. Each program has a maximum of 12 participants and 3 Global LAB instructors. For this reason, we recommend candidates submit their applications as early as possible.

To begin the application process, print out the preliminary application and FAQ below:
* Application Form
* FAQ

How to get your India Visa

You will find step by step instructions for applying for your visa in person or by mail by going to this link.

Feel free to contact Global LAB's admissions staff if you have any questions: admissions@global-lab.org

Packing & Gear Suggestions

He who would travel happily must travel light. - Antoine de Saint-Exupery

Lugging a heavy pack around for the entire time we are in Asia can be extremely tiresome for you, and for the rest of the group. There will be plenty of times when we'll be piling into a train or bus and we don't want to end up like this. Remember that we can find almost anything you’ll need in India, and you’ll also want to have room to pack gifts to take back to the U.S. Seriously challenge yourself to pack light, and lighter still…you definitely will not regret it! That said, you will not want to leave out any of the cold weather clothing/gear suggestions - our trek in the Himalaya will require appropriate protection against cold weather.

There will be opportunities to do “self-service” laundry where we’ll be staying.

PLEASE NOTE: We strive to be model visitors and therefore ask that everyone bring clothing that is lightweight and durable, but that also covers the body well, and looks respectable. Tie-dyed T-shirts, T-shirts sporting inappropriate phrases, cut-off jeans, clothing with rips or holes, tight fitting leggings, and tank tops are inappropriate as they show disrespect for local cultures.

BAGS
Internal Frame Backpack – Your main “suitcase” should be comfortable, durable, and as light as possible
Daypack – A book-bag to use for daily excursions.
Duffel Bag – While you’ll want to be able to fit all of your things in a backpack and daypack, an extra duffel can be handy for the trip back to the U.S. This bag should be nylon and durable.
Stuff Sacks – Light-weight and compact, using stuff sacks to separate clothes, food, toiletries for example, will bring order to your pack and allow you to pack and repack as we travel.
Ziploc Bags – Like stuff sacks, these can be invaluable for keeping things organized and dry.

Continue reading "Packing & Gear Suggestions" »

Participant Handbook

Please be sure to read your Participant Handbook before arriving at Orientation.

Global LAB Participant Handbook

Greetings from Tracy, your Program Director

tracy.jpg

Tshangma-la Jullay!
Greetings to all of you!

So, you’ve taken on the exciting responsibility as ambassadors of the youth of the United States; what an important role for you to be playing at a time when global conflict riddles the news media and our hearts. I enthusiastically welcome you to this traveling community where we will create new definitions of “home” and share with each other the invigorating reality of group living.

Continue reading "Greetings from Tracy, your Program Director" »

Greetings from Justin, Assistant Program Director

Justin.jpg

Namaste!!!

Congratulations on choosing such a wonderful way to spend time abroad. I’m so excited to share this opportunity with you. India holds a world of possibility, and it is up to all of us to make this journey everything it can be.

To begin with, I would like to tell a brief story about when I was first in India. On a hot and humid day I was sitting with a group of Sadhus (traveling Hindu ascetics) along a river bank and they told me that it takes seven lifetimes to experience their beloved country. This took a little while to sink in. Having already spent a few months in Northern India, I believed I was beginning to understand this foreign land. It was eye-opening to think that people’s scale of time could be so drastically different from my own. I was thinking in terms of months; years seemed long and lifetimes, come on. This bit of information transformed the way I was exploring, not only India, but the inner and outer world in general. India can have this effect on people, challenging the way we think, feel and interact with each other and the world. For me it challenged my concept of time; for you it may be different, but remaining open to whatever arises is the key. I would like to invite each of you to embrace this way of thinking: staying open to all India has to offer and seeing where this semester can lead us.

Continue reading "Greetings from Justin, Assistant Program Director" »

Julay from Namgial, our Ladakh Coordinator

Namgial's Intro Photo_small.jpg

Julay!

My name is Rinchen Namgial. I come from Domkar village, which is 118 km west of Leh, Ladakh. I grew up in that village, and received my high school education there. Afterwards I moved to Jammu for higher secondary school and college. I graduated in history, geography, economics and English. Later I went to Jammu University where I studied Buddhist philosophy.

To support my studies I worked as a freelance guide for the local travel agencies in Ladakh. This started my interest in working with people from different countries to help them understand Ladakhi culture.

Since then I have worked as a translator and guide with many different organizations, schools and universities, and with different travel agencies. As a guide, I have been leading treks since 1990 in Ladakh, Zanskar Valler, Changthang, Sikkim, Nepal, and Tibet. In 1996 I started the Yama Adventures travel agency, which is based in Leh, the capital of Ladakh. In addition to Ladakhi, I am able to speak English, German, Tibetan, Hindi, and Nepali.

As a guide/coordinator I have worked with the Smithsonian Institute, Earthwatch, Indian Wildlife Institute, and Agclon College from Switzerland. As a translator, I have worked for students from Oxford, Berkeley, Wisconsin, Oregon, New York, Michigan, Toronto and Ulm University in Germany with their research in Ladakh.

Over the last several years, I have been working with "From Brahma to Buddha" semester students and my experience with them has been wonderful. We have worked on many cleaning projects including the monastery area in Leh near the Palace and Namgyal Tsemo, at the base of Stok, at Tsokar and in the Markha valley. I have also arranged Independent Study Projects with a thangka painter, woodcarver, musician, Amchi ( local doctor), and Buddhist lama to give teachings. I have also introduced students to local community leaders to speak about different topics such as cultural information, Buddhist philosophy, etc.

I have coordinated treks, cultural trips to monasteries, and home stays as well. Sometimes I have been going as a translator when the groups visit Oracles and high Lamas. I truly enjoy sharing the knowledge I have gained with visitors, and making sure that they have a pleasurable and rewarding experience in Ladakh. I enjoy working with Global LAB semester students, and look forward to meeting you this fall in the Himalaya and helping you learn more about Ladakh.

Namgial

Tashi Delek from Peter, our Dharamsala Coordinator

Sonam Peter_small.jpg

Hello. My name is Sonam, but you can also call me Peter. I was born on the 10th of March, in 1979, in small village called Changthang Nyoma in Leh, Ladakh to a family of nomads. At a young age, I was sent to the Tibetan Childrens' Village School located in the town of Choglamsar, in Ladakh. After the 10th class, I completed two additional years at a school in South India and then completed my college-level courses at Delhi University in the field of Business. In March of 2000, I started to work in the travel business IATO (India Association of Tours Operation) company at New Delhi as a travel coordinator. I stayed with the company for six years.

Two years ago, I started my own travel business company at New Delhi in the name of SP Travels 24/7. I now work with a dedicated team, which combines the dynamism of youth with the experiences of age, to ensure a memorable tour experience to our clients. This work has allowed me to develop a good relationship with the native people. I look forward to sharing with you the actual lifestyle and culture of the people you will meet.

With regards,

Sonam (Peter)

Namaste from Shivani, our Jaipur Coordinator

Hi Everyone!

I wanted to introduce you to Shivani, our coordinator in Jaipur. We're so lucky to have the opportunity to work with Shivani. Check out her bio below!

Tracy

Shivani01-1.jpg

• Researcher • Educator • Meditator •

Shivani holds her masters in Science of Living. Her area of interest is research and experimental work in the field of education, teaching and training methods. She is currently working on her doctoral degree on developing non-violent behavior among children. As an educator, her major focus is value education among children and youth. She delivers lectures on themes like education, non-violence, yoga & meditation at several institutes.

She closely interacts and observes the practitioners and preachers of ahimsa and self-discipline. Thus regularly visits the monks and nuns to draw upon inspiration from the ancient teachings. Her increasing curiosity has led her to actively participate in peace walks, seminars and camps organized at various spiritual platforms.

She is a strong believer and practitioner of yoga and meditation. She has crafted a unique minimalist lifestyle for herself to live in peace within and harmony with the environment around.

May 28, 2008

Daily Itinerary

Fall 2008 Daily Itinerary

Please note: the below itinerary is planned months in advance and may change due to group interest, health and safety concerns, or other factors beyond the control of Global Learning Across Borders.

In United States:

Sept 12 - 14: Group orientation at Cross Roads Camp and Retreat Center

In India:

Sept 14 - 15: Flight--Newark to Delhi

Sept 15 - 17: In country orientation, introductory language lessons, and visits to key cultural and religious sites in Delhi

Sept 18 - 21: Arrival in Leh and introduction to Ladakh; Ladakhi language lessons and walking tours of Leh Old Town and Shanti Stupa; day excursions to Thiksay Gonpa and an audience with the Sabu Oracle; guest speakers to include local political figures, intellectuals, religious leaders from both Buddhist and Muslim communities, and youth activists

Sept 22 - 30:, Homestays and service work in Domkhar village. Continued Language Lessons. Volunteering with Domkhar Government High School. Excursions to Alchi and Likir Monasteries. Possible visit to SECMOL.

Oct 1 - 10: Trek to spectacular high mountain location. Please be sure to double check the packing list to ensure you have the right gear for this portion of the program!

Oct 11 - 14: Return to Leh. Finish guest speaker series, Visits to Tsemo Gonpa and Leh Palace.

Oct 15: Arrival in Delhi: Visit to Naz Foundation; Bollywood cinema experience in the afternoon, Nizammudin Sufi Shrine and lecture

Oct 17 - 19: Train to Amritsar, site of the Sikh pilgrimmage center the Golden Temple, experience nightly ritual flag-lowering ceremony at the Wagah Border, Jallianwala Bagh site visit

Oct 20 – 21: Train to Pathankot/bus to Dharamsala, Tibetan language lessons and orientation. Begin Dharamsala homestays, ISPs, guest lecture series, school/museum visits

Oct 22 - 31: Introduction to Buddhism retreat at Tushita Meditation Centre

Nov 1 - 13: Homestays in McLeod Ganj, Independent Study Projects, continued language lessons, and riveting guest speaker series focused on the experiences of Tibetans living in exile in India. Possible audience with His Holiness the 17th Gyalwa Karmapa

Nov 14 – 17: Travel to Delhi and Agra. Visit Taj Mahal, Fatehpur Sikri, Keoladeo National Park, Agra Fort

Nov 18– 30: Jaipur homestays, ISPs, language study, and possible desert excursions to Jodhpur, Jaisalmer, and Udaipur. Village excursion to Chomu and service work with Vidya Gram International School. Guest speaker series on Non Violence, Hinduism, Sikhism, and Jainism with possible audience with Jain monks and nuns.

Dec 1 - 4: Possible yoga and meditation retreat in the Hindu tradition.

Dec 5 – 11: Student-led portion (to be determined by students)

Dec 12 - 13: Return to Delhi

Dec 14 - 15: Flight to USA, arrival to Newark Airport early morning on the 15th

June 11, 2008

Book Your Tickets!

If you have received your notification of program acceptance and have not already done so, you should book your plane tickets with Sue Lai at Avia Travel by contacting her at Sue@aviatravel.com as soon as possible to secure your spot on the flight with the group. Be sure to identify yourself as a member of Global LAB's Fall 2008 India Semester.

June 30, 2008

Doug introduction

Doug Bernstein.JPG

Hi, my name is Doug. I'm 17 years old from the Washington DC suburb of Bethesda, MD. I have a very strong interest in Buddhism and Tibetan culture and a deep admiration and respect for the Tibetan people and the Dalai Lama. I'm especially looking forward to spending time in Dharamsala and experiencing Tibetan culture first-hand.

Wade introduction

Wade.JPG

Greetings from the Deep South, particularly: Alabama. My name is Wade and I'm a naive eighteen year old with a romantic vision of my own future. I live in Hoover, Alabama, which is a suburb of Birmingham and probably completely different from the average person's iea of any area within this state. Aside from living in a well-kept suburbia (where people wear shoes and fried chicken isn't the only food to devour, I might add), I'm a guy with lofty aspirations of a more free and creative life and plans to go to art school. I'm taking a gap year before college because I'm terribly afraid of jumping right into the more expensive and crucial part of education without more confidence in my person; I'd also like to have a more interesting and profound experience before college. Traveling to a different country is something I've always longed to do but have never been able to, and I cannot think of a better way to introduce myself to international but with a wonderful program sending young people to fascinating areas and fostering personal growth and development.

Christina Introduction

globallabpic.JPG

Hi everyone,
My name is Christina. I graduated this year from Lower Merion high school which is located in the suburbs of Philadelphia, pa. I don't have any plans set in stone for college but art school is definitely a possibility. I love live music, film photography, hiking, wildlife, good company, improvement,etc. So far this summer has been quite the trip; I look foward to opening a new chapter this fall and experiencing it with all of you.
Love from the illadelph,
see you all soon!
-Christina

Sandy introduction

Sandy.jpg

Hi everybody. Sandy here.

I'm 17 and just graduated from high school in Concord, Massachuestts.
I'm headed to Vassar in fall 2009, where I'm hoping to go into International
Development type-y stuff, so there seemed no better use for this year than
to defer and get out and be in the world.

So let's see, more about me:
I love spontaneous dance eruptions and/or bursting out into
random song, strawberry cheesequake blizzards from Dairy Queen, ice cream in
general, fireflies, stargazing, building forts, traveling, pushing myself to
try new things, collaging, scrubs, and shopping for craft supplies with my
mom for all the random projects we only sometimes get around to doing.

This summer I'm spending time doing a lot of babysitting and helping out at
my mom's school. For three weeks in August, too, I'm going to the mountains
of northern India (near Tibet), with a Tibetan Buddhist monk I know, to
visit a school he opened for local children a few years ago, which should be
so great. Knowing him has I think deepened my interest in India and eastern
culture, and was part of what drew me to this program as opposed to other
locations.

I am so excited. I can't believe we're leaving in a matter of weeks-- I
can't wait to meet you all soon!!
Love,
<3 sandy
p.s. This is me and my adorbsicle cousin Catie. :)

Kate introduction

Kate.jpg

Hi everyone!

My name is Kate, and I'm from Chicago. I just finished my senior year and I'm deferring for a year. I want to experience some new things before I go back to school...I'm kind of burnt out. I'm so excited! We're going to have a great time- I've always wanted to go to India :)

See you all in September!

Sam introduction

Sam.JPG

Hi I am Sam, I am from Larchmont, NY, and I summer on Martha's Vineyard, MA...I love music and being on the water although I am also really into skiing. Looking forward to this trip!

Natalie introduction

Natalie.jpg

My name is Natalie. I am a rising junior at Columbia University and live in New York City. I study art and like painting and photography, especially. I love Andy Warhol, Dylan's Desire, Lost, and The Wire.

Mirise introduction

Mirise.JPG

Hey everyone! I'm Mirise and I'm from North Salem, New York. I am currently taking
time off from school to travel and experience the world, as opposed to sit in a
classroom. Aside from travelling and experiencing, I enjoy photography, painting,
climbing mountains, music, etc etc. I chose to be a part of this upcoming journey to
India for a variety of reasons I'm sure I'll have a lot of time to talk to you all
about when we meet in the future, so I won't get into them here. I am really excited
to meet everyone and am even more excited to experience India with all of you.

Until we meet,
Mirise

Jake introduction

Jake.jpg

Hi, my name is Jake. I am a senior in high school. I plan to go to art school in fall of 2009. I am also a drummer. I am very excited about spending time in India and learning about Indian culture and music. I like to hang out with my friends and make music.

Tim introduction

Timothy Clayton.JPG

Hey everyone, my name is Timothy and I’m a graduating senior from a high school in New Orleans. I’ve lived in New Orleans for the past two years, after moving there from New Jersey in August of 2006 (yes, after Katrina). My deepest passion is creative writing, but I don’t know what I want to pursue as a career. I’m really looking forward to this trip and I hope that it’ll help guide me towards a career/college choice. It’s going to be a blast. I look forward to meeting all of you.

Ari introduction

Ari Chomitz.jpg

"Hey," as they say in Bethesda, Maryland! I'm Ariana, but I go by Ari. I'm 18, and this semester is the start of my gap year. I'm currently enrolled in Kenyon College, but decided to defer so I could go to India with you guys and then to France. My biggest passions are dancing (anything from hip hop to ballet to flamenco), creative writing, and traveling. Being half-Filipino, visiting many countries, and living near Washington, D.C. has given me a taste for how fascinating diversity is. I can't wait to go to India-a place I haven't been, with friends I haven't met. We're going to have fun.

For your Indian Visa

For your Indian visa application

Below is an address you can list as a local India contact on the visa
application. Namgial is the local coordinator for the Ladakh portion of
our program in the far northern part of India.

You can put a parent (or any family member or friend) down as a US contact.

Michelle


Rinchen Namgial
Yama Adventures/Himalayan Treks
P.O.Box 187, Head Post Office
Leh, Ladakh
194 101, India

Notice from Michelle Bos-Lun, Director of Admissions

Hello Fall 08 India Students-

Here are some important reminders for you:

1) Please send in a digital picture of yourself to go along with your self-introduction on the blog (email to aaron@global-lab.org)

2) Tuition balances are now due- if you have received an acceptance letter for our program, please send the balance due to our Woodside NY office immediately (if for some reason you need an extension contact
michelle@global-lab.org)

3) Our pre-travel orientation will be held at Cross Roads Camp & Retreat Center in New Jersey, less than 1 hour from NYC. (We are renting this space to run our own orientation program there).

4) You should apply for your Indian visa soon. You can do so via this link: https://www.indian-visa.com/get-a-visa.html
Be sure to apply for a TOURIST visa (not a student visa which is only granted for those studying in long term Indian institution-based programs).

5) If you have not already done so, you should contact Sue Lai at sue@aviatravel.com to book your ticket to India on the flight selected for your group as soon as possible.

6) Get in the habit of checking the blog regularly as news of your program and pre-travel orientation plans will be posted here.

7) If you have any questions do not hesitate to contact one of us at Global LAB:

michelle@global-lab.org (Director of Admissions)
john@global-lab.org (Executive Director)
aaron@global-lab.org (Blog-poster/Admin Asst.)

Or give a call at 800 984 4522.

Looking forward to meeting you all at pre-travel orientation on September 12!

Michelle

July 9, 2008

Michelle out of office July 9-16

Michelle Bos-Lun, Director of Admissions will be out of the office from
July 9- July 16.

If you have questions about preparing for your Global LAB Fall Semester
program you can contact Alex Safos (Director of North African and Middle
Eastern Programs for Global LAB) at alex@global-lab.org

July 22, 2008

Leave your cells and laptops at home... :)

A couple families have asked recently about the need or desirability of bringing cell phones or laptops to India and Morocco. Each program has a laptop which comes along and is kept by the leaders (but available to the students for blogging and sending photos). Each Global LAB leader also has a cell phone. We recommend that students do not bring along laptops or cell phones (or blackberries or anything along those lines). They are likely to get lost, broken or even stolen and computer labs and phone booth/stalls are widely available in most regions where our semester programs spend time.

If you have other questions do not hesitate to ask.

Michelle (Director of Admissions)
michelle@global-lab.org or 800 984 4522
PS- The CORE medical insurance program we provide for students is still working on upgrading its website-we'll have more information about that for students soon..

July 29, 2008

How do I get to the retreat center on September 12th??

Hi India Semester Students!

Below is information about how to get from your domestic flight into the New York City area to Cross Roads Camp and Retreat Center, the site of our Pre-Travel Orientation starting on September 12. We're aiming to have all of you meet up to catch the same train from Newark Penn Station. I strongly suggest (if you haven't booked your domestic flight yet) to fly into Newark (EWR) as transferring from there would be easiest. Second easiest would be Kennedy (JFK) and third LaGuardia (LGA). Please book your flights in the morning so you can meet at the Newark Penn Station train station to catch the 3 pm train to High Bridge, NJ (on the Raritan Valley Line).

Please let us know how you are getting to the retreat center on Friday September 12. You can email Tracy at tracy@global-lab.org with that information as soon as you know it.

For those of you who would like to drive to the center directly, please follow the directions from the retreat center's website.

If you're flying into Newark, make your way to Newark Penn Station where you will catch your train out to High Bridge, NJ on the Raritan Valley Line. You can purchase your ticket at Newark Liberty Airport, hop on the AirTrain, and arrive at Newark Penn Station to catch your train to High Bridge, NJ (the last stop). The train departs Newark Penn Station at 3:06 pm and arrives at High Bridge at 4:27 pm. A Global LAB staff member will meet you at the High Bridge station and help you transfer to the retreat center.

If you're flying in to JFK, you need to catch the A Express subway train from the airport to New York Penn Station where you will purchase your train ticket for High Bridge, NJ on the Raritan Valley Line. You'll want to catch the 2:32 pm Northeast Corridor (NEC) Line train to Newark Penn Station. There, you will switch lines and take the 3:06 pm train to High Bridge which arrives at 4:27 pm. A Global LAB staff member will meet you at the High Bridge station and help you transfer to the retreat center.

If you're flying in to LaGuardia, you can take a fairly short cab ride into New York Penn Station where you will purchase your train ticket for High Bridge, NJ on the Raritan Valley Line. You'll want to catch the 2:32 pm Northeast Corridor (NEC) Line train to Newark Penn Station. There, you will switch lines and take the 3:06 pm train to High Bridge which arrives at 4:27 pm. A Global LAB staff member will meet you at the High Bridge station and help you transfer to the retreat center.

Don't hesitate to get in touch with any questions you might have regarding this day full of travel before we all meet together at the retreat center!

More soon,

Tracy

August 6, 2008

Important Insurance Information

All Global LAB participants are covered for medical and emergency evacuation insurance through a policy we purchase through CORE travel.

We provide each participant with the basic CORE coverage. If you wish to upgrade or select additional policies provided by CORE (such as lost luggage insurance or increased protection) please see the attached document, which can be found at the end of this post. If you have questions about upgrading, please contact the CORE administrator, Fiona Lally. Her contact information is available in the attached document, as well.

Download file

Michelle

August 13, 2008

Check out these Books and Films!

Namaste Everyone,

We've collected a list of some highly recommended books and movies which might help you better prepare for your experiences in India. While we do recommend a visit to your local library (for the movies too!) to pick some of these up, we also have a small library stored in Delhi with many of the same titles listed below and much more. There is certainly more out there, so let us know what you fine.

Feel free to comment on this entry and let us all know what you've watched/read/enjoyed already!

History:

Mahatma Gandhi, (Louis Fischer, ed.) The Essential Gandhi, Vintage, 1962.

Avedon, John. In Exile From the Land of Snows, NY: A Knopf, 1984
This excellent book as it offers a clear and concise background on Tibetan culture, and details the events surrounding the occupation of Tibet by the Chinese.

Tenzin Gyatso, H. H. the Dalai Lama. My Land and My People. NY: Potala, 1983
This is an autobiographical account of the history of modern Tibet, told by His Holiness Tenzin Gyatso, the XIVth Dalai Lama. We also recommend any other publication by His Holiness such as Ethics for a New Millennium , The Art of Happiness and The World of Tibetan Buddhism.

Continue reading "Check out these Books and Films!" »

FAQ's: Global LAB's CORE Insurance Policy

In the file below you will find frequently asked questions, as well as their answers, regarding the complimentary travel insurance Global LAB provides its participants.

Download file

Best,
Aaron

August 19, 2008

Snow Leopards in Ladakh

This National Geographic article was published in the June 2008 issue - the location of the photos are Hemis National Park, which is one of the most popular options for our trek this fall while we are in Ladakh.

In three years of leading programs in Ladakh, I have yet to see a snow leopard - keeps things exciting! Maybe we'll get the chance to see some evidence of one this fall while we're trekking.

Hope packing is going well for everyone - be in touch if you have any questions as we get closer to departure time. Also, keep checking back here on the blog as valuable information will be shared in the coming days that will help you start thinking more about what our time together will be like.

Tracy

August 29, 2008

Greetings from Amit, in Delhi

Amit_kids.jpg

Namaste,

I am Amit from Delhi and I've been working with the Brahma to Buddha semester for more than two years now. I love to meet different people, understand the diversity of cultures, and love traveling to new places and exploring new ideas. The last semester groups were wonderful--I learned so many things from them, enjoyed traveling with them, from Holi Festival in my house to each and every day was something new like visiting the blind school, visiting the Golden Temple in Amritsar, taking a boat down the Ganges River, watching Bollywood movies and taking Bollywood dance lessons, etc.

About my qualifications I went to a boarding school which is 175 km from Delhi and I studied there up to grade 10TH and then came back to Delhi, finished my grade 12TH and college from DELHI COLLEGE OF ARTS AND COMMERCE IN HISTORY (HONS).

You are very lucky as you are coming in a very good festival season--almost all the big festivals of India are in the following months, including Diwali, the festival of lights.

So here I sign out and for more information you have to meet me. Wishing you love and luck for the fall semester 2008.

Amit

Considering college credit?

Some students have expressed interest in earning college credit for their semester with Global LAB. This is possible through a partnership with Seattle Central Community College (SCCC). Students can sign on for 1-3 courses which mesh with the planned itineraries for each program. They complete a variety of written and hourly requirements for each course and return their assignments to a professor in the US. The financing of this program is independent of Global LAB and is coordinated directly between program participants and the college. If you might be interested in doing this please follow the five-step instructions listed below:

1) Go to: www.seattlecentral.edu/coop
2) Click on travel, language study
3) Click on registration
4) Print out the 3 page registration form
5) Mail in or fax the completed form, along with check (or credit card
info) for $89 per credit hour

Possible courses include:

• ITL 197: INTERNATIONAL COOPERATIVE EDUCATION (5 credits)
Assignments relate to 66 hours of community service and 40 hours of language

• EDU 291: USING THE WORLD AS A CLASSROOM (5 credits)
Assignments include a daily journal, ethnographic paper, two critical thinking assignments (based on program-relevant articles), and one related project

• SSC 297: TRAVEL/STUDY EXPERIENCE (10 credits)
Assignments include a daily journal, three research papers relating to service and/or your Independent Service Project, and four critical thinking papers (based on program-relevant articles)

September 12, 2008

Greetings from Cross Roads Retreat Center!

staff.jpg
John, Justin, Harrison, Galen, Kempie, Sharon, Sammer, Alex, Tracy

We are eagerly awaiting the India and Morocco semester students arrival later today after having enjoyed a productive and fun staff retreat here at Cross Roads.

After all the students have arrived here we'll post another message. If anyone needs to contact us before flight departures on Sunday, please call Global LAB's 800 number.

Here's to a safe and rewarding cross-cultural adventure in the months ahead.

Global LAB Program Directors

September 13, 2008

Team Global LAB Fall '08

Hey,

We are all still together and having a great time, even though we are in New Jersey. A bunch of us on the train from Newark to High Bridge got a bunch of strange looks after replying to the question "Where are you going?" with Morocco/India. One guy countered with, "India's cool, I guess."

Terese and Richard Bernstein I am still alive (along with everyone else).

Peace.

The chai and chocolate chip cookies are good.

Sam's first entry

Movement Exercise.JPG

Shy yet open
everyone lingers
people talk yet,
souls are still timid
two groups unite as one
one rhythm beats
our heart is the bass drum
the one continuous beat,
that never stops
people aren't so shy
not now, not now
that we have been
broken in, like an
old pair of smelly sneakers.
We dance and frolic
fearful and happy
We dance, as ONE

A reflection on an imminent departure

Cross Cultural Finger Commune.JPG

Things I am leaving behind:
My addiction to my cell phone. My addiction to the internet. All my vices, really, like omnipresent coffee, facebook, makeup, silly clothes, instant gratification in all manners of shapes and sizes. These are things I formerly and hyperbollically thought I could not live without, but once separated from them, I do feel lighter and more content. However, the separation from my family and friends was, on the train at least, not as easy to deal with. (The amazing people and new friends I have found here help a lot though.)

Things I am bringing with me:
Forty pounds of gear, either crammed into or hanging off of an orange backpack almost as big as I. Pictures of people who I care about, and who care about me. The good wishes and support that these people have given me, too. I am bringing a fountain pen that leaves stains on my right thumb and middle finger, a fancy leather notebook, and all my writerly pretensions. I am bringing 8 GB of music and 14 GB of camera memory. I am bringing Doug Bernstein, who shares a hometown and 12 years of school acquaintance with me.
Also with me I bring a sense of adventure, and bundles of preconceived notions I won't even notice I have until they are shattered.

I am having a wonderful time already, although I can't wait to get to India and start living like I've never lived before! I love everyone I've met- the place is brimming with optimism, enthusiasm and friendship. It's a shame that we'll lose half of the group here to Morocco, but I really appreciate the chance to have made contact with such amazing people first.

September 14, 2008

Low Ropes

stretch.jpg
Isabella and Jake seeking balance

DSC_04180001.JPG
Tracy and Kempie at peak performance

Orientation Closing Circle

council.jpg

Coming together in the yurt for a group council, Morocco and India students share their hopes and concerns and excitement about the upcoming international adventure.

September 15, 2008

Taking Off

Group_Gladstone.jpg
A van to a bus to a train to a plane and they are off, following a terrific group orientation at Cross Roads Retreat Center. Stay tuned for updates from India here on the group blog.

Safe in India

Hi All,

Tracy sent us a text message confirming that the group arrived safe and sound in Delhi and will be resting up at their guest house before heading out to explore the capital.

John

September 16, 2008

*Waves at Morocco 10*

Hi friends and family, it’s currently 12:13 AM India time, which means its 2:43 PM in the US and 6:43 PM in Morocco. India is different in so many ways, whether it be the smells or the anarchy of the road way or simply the 16 different knobs in the bathroom, it is both intimidating and enthralling. I’ll admit some of the first feelings I had after getting off the plane were of home, the familiarity, the comforts, my dog Jessie…at times I found myself questioning my very existence. What was I doing so far from home, why did I ever think I could even make it here for three months, is this actually happening, what the hell was I thinking? Then we got on the “party bus” and were on the way to the hotel with our local contact Ahmit leading the way. The sights of shantytowns next to construction sights, whole families sleeping next to the side of the road, construction everywhere, barbed wire and concrete barricades surround buildings and apartment complexes…to be honest I was waiting for a horde of zombies to come rushing out of the jungle darkness. At least the humidity was familiar. Then we had a sort of informal council, over the course of which my fears and apprehensions melted away as I drank cup after cup of the most delicious chai. But I’m still carrying some emotional baggage; I can’t stop thinking of all the friends I made who are currently in Morocco. It was such a truly Shakespearean twist of fate to create such deep bonds and to be ripped apart just as those bonds were blossoming into beautiful friendships. I’d especially like to thank Tessa for lending me an apple on the train, you have no idea how much better that apple made me feel after that awful bus ride. If only we could’ve stayed together on our trip. I guess that’s it for now.

We’ll meet again, don’t know where don’t know when
-Doug B.

September 17, 2008

The First Steps are Always the Hardest

Namaste everyone, it's 10:16 AM in India, which means it's 12:47 AM in the US and 4:47 AM in Morocco. We leave for Ladakh tomorrow. Delhi has been intense (that is an understatement to say the least). I'm having a fantastic time, but it hasn't just been shits and giggles. Yesterday brought a lot of uncomfortable realities and feelings to bare. I came to India thinking I could stomach the injustice I would see, I thought my emotional walls could withstand it but, pardon the analogy, they came crashing down faster than the US stock market. I had a feeling that I would be the first person to cry in India...I was right. As everyone on the trip knows, I'm awful at hiding my emotions. A few one on one discussions as well as council last night brought those emotions full circle. I'm still having difficulties dealing with the poverty, as my family knows well, I'm somebody who tends to feel things with every fiber of my being, not to say that I am somehow more morally righteous than anyone else, just more likely to let it affect me. By the way Dad, what you said, about the first days being the hardest has proven invaluable, without your words of comfort I would be in some very deep emotional shit. But, thanks to you, and the kind words of Justin and Tracy, Kate, Natalie, Sam, Jake, Wade, Tim, Sandy, Ari, and Marisa I have a hovercraft of love with which to pilot across this waterway of intense emotion. Not to say I don't feel it now, by Odin's beard do I feel it, I'm just not being engulfed by it. On a happier note, this may be the most amazing group of human beings I've ever encountered in my sheltered 18 years of existence. And now for Kurt Vonnegut allusion number #17 of the trip. In Cat's Cradle the religion of Bokononism talks of special groups of people called a Karass, which Wikipedia defines as: a group of people who, often unknowingly, are working together to do God's will. The people can be thought of as fingers in a Cat's Cradle. I don't know if we're that magical, but it feels as though our whole lives are inextricably linked, I like to think of us as the Megazord from Power Rangers, each of us being an individual zord, all of us being indespensible if we are to form the Megazord and survive this physical, emotional, and spiritual crucible. I think that's it for now, I still have so much kicking around in my head but I'll save it for another time.

We'll meet again, don't know where don't know when.
-Doug B.

P.S. Mom, Dad, Bek, and Jessie, being 12,000 kilometers away has really helped me to realize just how much I love each of you, even if you can be really annoying.

P.P.S. Apparently, I'm the funny kid on the trip, who knew!

Getting used to sweating again!

Namaste Friends and Families,

We are all well and engaged as we start our second morning here in India. As always, India has settled powerfully in our psyches during our first hours, and the students have reacted with poise, patience, depth, strength, and courage. This country continues to be the catalyst and main teacher for us as we take our small steps forward exploring Delhi.

Yesterday, we had a full day driving around in sweltering Delhi traffic listening to the latest Bollywood tunes brought to us by our wonderful local coordinators Amit and Gaurav. We tried new foods, drank lots of chai, learned about Indira Gandhi and her son Rajiv and how they shaped the political and social history of this country. We also visited the site where Mahatma Gandhi spent his last hours of his life. A highlight, as well, proven by our sharp attire this morning as we all emerged from our rooms for the first chai of the day, was our visit to the ready-made salwar kameez store - Fab India (photos to come!).

I'm encouraged and inspired by the hour with the students - families and friends, I'm thanking you for letting Justin and me borrow these amazing people from your lives for three months! I'm already a better person for knowing each and every one of them.

Stay tuned to the blog for more updates as we explore Old Delhi today and share iftar for Ramadan tonight after sunset with a good friend.

Be well,

Tracy

September 18, 2008

No more sweating

Tracy sent a report from the Himalaya this morning: the group had a smooth flight from Delhi up to Leh, where they are spending the day resting and acclimating to the altitude, enjoying the crisp temperatures after Delhi's sweltering heat, and looking forward to watching a film on Ladakhi culture this evening. She said folks are also working on some blog posts to share their impressions of the first days of the semester, so stay tuned for more.

John
(NYC)

September 19, 2008

General impressions of India:

There was a lot of culture shock upon reaching Delhi, such as the socially accepted spitting and snorting (watch where you step), or the unavailability of toilet paper in most bathrooms. Also, the traffic is at once the most terrifying and hilarious thing I’ve ever experienced. Traffic lanes are just a suggestion- people weave in and out of lanes, straddle the line, lean on the horn or, in the case of one of our drivers, lean down and switch on the siren (which no one acknowledges) to warn people that they are coming through whether or not they like it. Surprisingly, no one dies. It’s quite impressive.

The food here is AMAZINGGG. I have heartily enjoyed every meal here, with the one exception of the fried rice with bits of uncooked globby chicken in it. I don’t really understand how all their food is always so good. Maybe because it’s real? We are all addicted to chai tea by now. I think Sam is on his sixth cup of the morning right now. The music is also fantastic- every song I hear is so catchy and danceable. There seems to be a preoccupation with American rappers though. It’s a bit disorienting to turn on the radio and hear “Yo, this is big Snoop D-O-double-G.” It doesn’t stop us from turning every ride into a dance party, though.

I really liked Delhi, but that was before we got to Ladakh. Ladakh is the most beautiful place on earth- when we got off the plane, we had a 360 view of mountains and blue sky. It took our breath away. Or that might have been the lack of oxygen. In my opinion, all the high altitude symptoms I’ve been dealing with- a constantly parched throat, quickened heart rate and trouble catching my breath- are completely worth the view I got to wake up to this morning. Then again, I’m pretty well off compared to the rest of the group- a few people have gotten really sick and others have headaches.

But I could really just sit and watch the scenery the entire day.

Ari

Julay!!!!

lehview.jpg
View from Leh, across the Indus River valley

Hey y’all,
The first blog post of hopefully many. I’m not quite sure what to write about, so ima wing this. Bear with me. We are now in Leh, the capitol of Ladakh. It’s the only major city in the entirety of the state, if you can even refer to this as a city. It is breathtaking. Surrounded by the Himalayas no matter which way you look out. Snowy high peaks, rougher and more epic than any mountain I have ever seen. Unfortunately, we do not get the opportunity to summit any of these mountains (apparently it takes a lot of skill), but one of our coordinators here, Namgyal, owns a company that sends people out on treks through the Himalayas to summit mountains. That might be something I’ll have to come back and do with a buddy or two. These mountains are way too incredible for me not to climb atleast one in my lifetime, and now I know someone that would arrange such an adventure for me. Plus, I am absolutely in love with Leh. I have never been any place so quiet and peaceful and beautiful and calm in my entire life. It is such a drastic difference compared to Delhi, the city we just left. Congested, loud, crowded, crazy traffic, but incredible as well. Although all of those adjectives describe Delhi, I have never been in a city where everybody was so happy. Children were always running through the streets, laughing and smiling and playing. They were all so intrigued by us, watching what we do but not in a rude way at all. They were all so curious and it was beautiful, atleast to me.
But now we are in Leh. And we are about to eat breakfast. And I don’t really have much to say, I am just really happy and so grateful to be here. I prefer the slow, quiet way of life up here in the mountains to the loud craziness of Delhi. The lack of oxygen is definitely getting to all of our heads, and laughing fits have become a regular thing.
I am having so much fun. And I am so in love with all of my new friends. I’m excited to see where the rest of this journey takes us; it hasn’t even been a week yet and I already love every place I’ve been, and am so close to each and every member of this Global Lab community.
To everyone back at home, I love you and have been thinking of you often. I hope all is well and I will be making phone calls as soon as I can. I’m not quite sure when that’ll be, but hopefully soon.
Julley (Ladakhi for hello, goodbye, thank you, etcetcetc. Basically the universal word),

Mirise

I Feel

By Sam Henderson


I feel
Alive
I feel happiness
I feel in touch with my inner self
Feelings I’ve never experienced
I feel
For the first time in my life
Like I am one with nature
And my surroundings
I feel
Another smile overcoming me
And another and another
I can’t stop smiling
Or feeling so happy
I feel freed from my past
The future is of no concern
Only the present
Only that, which surrounds me
I smell, smells like wood, leaves, flowers and fresh air
I smell nature
I smell myself being set free like
A bird from a cage
I fell like air, not light headed
But as if there is no weight on my shoulders
And whatever weight there was
Is gone forever
I’ve never breathed air so pure
I feel at home with myself
Every flower has a different and unique smell
The white mountains all around me
Yet not all are white
Some are brown and sandy
The peaks jagged and steep.

Salwar Kameezes and much more

Hi Everyone,

Sandy here. I haven’t read all the other blog entries, so apologies if I repeat things that have already been said.
It’s wonderful here. Delhi is so full of energy. The traffic is crazy. Everything is very hodgepodge, and helter skelter out the wazoo.
We went shopping at FabIndia a few days ago (which Tracy describes as the Indian equivalent of the GAP). We’re all decked out in our salwar kameezes. It’s fantastic. We still stick out like sore thumbs, I know, but it feels like we’re less conspicuous, and maybe the confidence that comes with that feeling makes it slightly more true. Plus they’re super excitingly beautiful.
We flew to Ladakh yesterday. It is stunning here. Everyone was breathless when we landed (and not just because of the altitude), and smiling just to be surrounded by this atmosphere. It’s beautiful—both the place itself, and to see how much everyone’s eyes light just to be in it. It’s incredible to look out across the mountains, and while most of the environment is arid and brown and dry, Leh itself (the city we’re in) is beautiful and lush(-er), built around a river. (You could see the dramatically distinct patch of green as we flew in). The guest house has the most beautiful garden, and there are these trees, that are enormously tall and reach straight up to the sky, with white trunks that I want to call stems, and dotted with light green leaves on delicate, vertical branches that shiver like glitter when the wind blows. It seems like something a child would doodle from imagination in the margin of a notebook.
The air is brisk and crisp, and it smells like the air when we go up to New Hampshire for Thanksgiving. I guess I won’t be completely missing fall.
The people are so wonderful and smiley. There is an 11 (I think?) year old boy who works here at the guest house. He is so eager to serve us, and takes such good care of us. Yesterday during dinner I went to fill up my water bottle: he saw me from the other end of the hall, said “Oh my god,” and rushed over to take the task from my hands. He smiles endlessly, says “thank you” back after we thank him, and brings us chai to no end. (ILOVECHAIILOVECHAIILOVECHAI- it’s subtle..).
Hindi lesson of the day: Mere chai atchi lakti he (-ish? I think?). (Literally: to me chai good is).
It reminds me of back home (away from home) in A.P., which I miss like a motherflippin. I wrote a letter to my Monpa babies yesterday afternoon (Sonam read it over my shoulder—his English is great and he’s so enthusiastic—and helped me spell place names right, and write Tashi Delek in Tibetan).
There are a million windswept and sun-bleached prayer flags adorning the whole town, and a haphazard ladder made out of logs, nailed together and tied with mismatched cloth and rope, leading up to the roof from where you can see everything. The architecture is so open. I could there for hours.
Today we’re going to walk around the town some, I do believe, and in a few days will be going to Domkhar to do village homestays for a week and a bit.
I’m having a wonderful time. Hope college is going excitingly for everyone there,
Love you all lots,
and lots and lots,
<3 sandy

Mountains

mountains.jpg

By Sam Henderson

I am one with the mountains, a place I feel safe, a place that feels like home.
I can be who I choose in the mountains.
Mountains do not judge.
I do not judge anyone or anything in the mountains.
They have strength and power yet if you treat the mountains with respect they can bring you peace and love.

From New Jersey to Delhi and beyond

Jullay!!

A good friend told me that Leh had a magnificence that was difficult to describe. Well, they hit the nail on the head. It is breath taking, both physically and emotionally, and because of this, it is difficult to put into words what is occurring. But, I am going to try anyways…

As we sat around Choktse’s (traditional Ladakhi tables in which you eat from on the ground) and ate our breakfast today, the students shared about the overall energetic difference between Delhi and Ladakh; the emotional release many of them felt as we walked off the plane and into this new world. Delhi offered us loads of opportunities to explore the rich cultural history of the Indian people, as well as contemporary Indian cultural and Ladakh is providing us with peace and ease to reflect a bit on where we are and what we are here to do.

It is amazing to think that we have traveled from small town New Jersey to the Jama Masjid (the largest Mosque in India) in Delhi and now to Ladakh, a hidden kingdom for much of history, in the span of five days. Our time together thus far has been invigorating and it seems as if each turn we take provides some new experience to strengthen the bonds between each other. In the coming days we will be exploring both urban and rural Ladakhi life, engaging with local people to learn about their customs and exploring some of the foothills that surround this mountain city, but until then, we rest, preparing for another leg of our journey together.

I hope you all are well and appreciate you following us during our time in India.

That is all for now,

Justin
Leh, Ladakh September 18, 2008

Communication

By Sam Henderson

Red.
Poodle.
Blue.
Chihuahua.
Green.
Mastiff.
Orange.
Shiatsu.
RED!
POODLE!
Yell Lab
Golden Retriever
Purple cosmic space sheep dog
Shoulders touchfingers connect like ET
Black Collie
We begin to understand
And respect
We are patient
We are ready!

Mom, Camp is Great, Send More Oxygen

Hello (I know everyone else said Julley...), it's 12:15 PM India time, which means it is 2:45 AM in the US and 6:45 AM in Morocco. This little collection of electrons is coming from the Himalayan Cyber Cafe in Leh, Ladakh. This land of mountains and MIG-29's is a close to paradise as I have ever come. On an interesting note, it is a blissful fusion of my interest in Buddhism and a simple relaxed life style coupled with my long standing fascination of military hardware...it's somewhat of a paradox. When we got off the plane at Leh Airport/Airbase Tracy said something like half of all people in Kashmir are with the military, it's safe to say she was right. Standing on the tarmac, my eye was drawn to radars, parked MIG-29 fighters, and what looked to be a C-141 Starlifter coming in to land. The morning seems to be the height of military activity, as throughout the wee hours of the day the placid air is ripped apart by the silhouettes of MIG-29's and SU-27's roaring through the sky on full afterburner, no doubt participating in the aerial ballet between the Pakistani, Indian, and Chinese air forces which is as much a part of life here as the cacophony of dog's at night or the Westerners looking for their next adrenaline fix. Hey, it's not like there is terrible poverty or some other problem which needs the money...I'm in no position to criticize, after all, the US does spend more on "defense" than every other country on Earth combined (about $700,000,000,000 in 2007). I hate to end on such a somber note, so I won't. At the Kidar Guest house, where we are staying, there is a young boy named Sonam. If there is hope for the world, he is it...I'm a close second.

We'll meet again, don't know where don't know when.
-Doug B

P.S. Mom and Dad I got both your e-mails.

P.P.S. I swear I saw a collie on the way from the airport to Kidar Guest house, that made my day along with everything else in this Shangri-la.

September 20, 2008

Hi everyone!!

I’m sure other people have written about how beautiful Leh is, but I just have to add that it’s SPECTACULAR. I’ve barely taken any pictures of the landscape, because I don’t think that I’ll be able to do it justice. There are thousands of flowers and trees everywhere. As Tracy put it, they’re all the most beautiful that you’ve ever seen. The mountains are incredible and every morning, they’re even more snow-peaked. I’ve been listening to “The Sound of Music,” because it seems to fit the mood :) All of us are so happy and peaceful here.
We have been sleeping a lot these past few days to adjust to the altitude, so yesterday, Natalie and I woke up around 5:00 AM. We went into the tea room and watched the sun rise while I was reading and she was drawing (her drawings are incredible!). The morning is such a great time of day- I’ll have to start waking up earlier at home!
In a couple of days, we’re going to Domkhar and we won’t have a chance to e-mail.
Hope everything’s going well for all of our friends and family at home!
(I LOVE India)

Kate

Babymaking and Backgammon

I’m trying to write a blog post but these obnoxious people keep talking! Justin (one of our Program Directors) is telling us where babies come from. He said that babies come from snow leopard eggs that are distributed across the five continents by the great garuda, a pregnant tiger, and a yeti.

You can’t get bedtime stories like this at home.

Anyways, India rocks, blah blah blah, I’m sure others have addressed that. Other people probably mentioned how awesome the terrible movie we watched last night was. What I don’t think others have told you about is an ancient game that me and a few others have rediscovered. I’m talking, of course, about backgammon.

Backgammon is the most ancient game known to man. It’s a game of conquering that which lies within. All you need to play is courage, dexterous fingers, and a trusty bar of soap. Backgammon can be played alone, or with a friend. I’ve played twice, and Wade-Ji (pronounced Wad-ee-gee) has played twice, but we have yet to play together.

Now, I know that many of you will not understand the kind of backgammon I’m talking about. You won’t read about it in any paper. But, backgammon cannot be explained in mere words or with a motion of your left hand. It’s a game that can only be played by the brave, the humble, and the desperate.

But, backgammon is a great, great game. And when a man is up to his wrist in glorious victory, having flushed out all opposition, he discovers a freedom that he never knew before. A freedom that can only be obtained in the murky, yet mysterious depths of India.

Sincerely,
Tim (missing his dogs but definitely not his parents)

Isn't there a Gondola?

Greetings, it's 6:13 PM in Leh, which means it's 8:43 AM in the US and 12:43 PM in Morocco. I don't have much time so this one will be a quickie. Today we climbed (walked/staggered/crawled) up a mountain on the outskirts of Leh. At the summit, 3700 meters up, is the original royal palace of the Namgil dynasty. There we were given a quick history lesson on Ladakh as well as a crash course on prayer flags and stuppas by our local contact Namgil (no relation to the royal family). While we were up there, an Indian air force C-141 Starlifter happened to fly over. I just sneezed, gesundheit, any way, a single dog had made its home at the top of that mountain...I feel there is some hidden meaning in that, I've yet to figure it out, will let you know when I do. From what few newspaper headlines I've seen it looks as though the world is falling apart, what else is new. That's it for now.

We'll meet again, don't know where don't know when.
-Doug B.

September 21, 2008

The Frequency is Courage Part I

While material resources such as hand sanitizer or toilet paper or soap might seem like the most indispensable things we carry with us on this journey, the most treasured resources lay untapped within us. I realize that is a very weak lead-in, blame the public school system if you must. Today I've come to realize a message which may well prove invaluable in the days to come: The Frequency is Courage (a la Dan Rather). The courage which we will all need to tackle the hardships we will face lies within us, it is just waiting to be tapped. It provides us a means to do the simple and the extraordinary. From trying new foods to walking the 3.5 kilometers between the Sheh and Thiksey monasteries or taking the hundreds of stairs to the top of Thiksey monastery when a jeep could have taken you...the frequency is courage. Whether we are facing our innermost demons or our apprehensions about not using toilet paper...the frequency is courage. To Natalie's annoyance, when things have gotten really tough I've made a habit of saying 'death could not come quick enough.' No more! From now on I solemnly promise when I feel that 'death could not come quick enough' I shall instead declare that the frequency is courage. She will likely come to detest that as well, too bad for her, I like the way it sounds. The frequency is courage, put that on a bumper sticker god dammit! On an unrelated note, we are heading to Domkhar tomorrow to begin our home stays. There is no internet, also known as a series of tubes, in Domkhar so don't be worried Mom if there are no posts for a week or two. That's all for now, and remember, when hardships arise...the Frequency is Courage!

We'll meet again, don't know where don't know when.
-Doug B.

A Traveling Fool is Better Than a Sitting Wiseman (Looks like I'm set.)

Greetings from the high altitudes- 3200 meters to give a rough estimate,

Life is peaceful here in the serene Indus River Valley, despite the perpetual chaos present in the group dynamic. I speak of a positive chaos, if you can imagine that. So many interesting folks constantly in close proximity, experiencing this tumultuous introduction into a foreign culture together- this is a situation that is bound to produce a hectic energy. Our western circus troupe of 12 has managed to tap into the force successfully and direct it's unruly nature towards productive bonding, exploration, and a rapid intake of Eastern knowledge. We could easily be compared to historic British explorers, venturing into blank spots on the map- you know, the sort with outlandish facial hair and funny names like Chester A. Witherspoon. The only exception in this comparison is that we generally make it a rule not to massacre the natives of the exotic locations we travel through.

On that note, I think I speak for everyone when I say that interaction with the local Indians has been absolutely delightful so far. From our run ins with handy-dandy transportation agent Amit and his brother Gaurav in madhouse metropolis Delhi to wise guide Namgyal and the prince of tea, Sonam, in pristine Ladakh, there has been something to learn in our time spent with those that inhabit this curious nation.

As much as I would love to speak about Delhi, the domain of spice, sweat, and exhilarating traffic, I'll save my thoughts concerning the place until we once again find ourselves in the midst of it's unique hustle and bustle. Besides, my good friend Doug undoubtedly has much more to say in regards to that populous city. As you may already know, the group is now spending it's time in Leh, an agricultural center turned tourist hot spot nestled in the foothills of the mighty Himalayans. This area has made a profound impact on us all, it seems, and rightly so, as it is quite an interesting place. Jammu and Kashmir, the country that Ladakh is a part of, is a source of conflict between India, Pakistan, and China in terms of it's borders. Apparently everyone wants a piece of this rather remote pie. Although the fight rages far from where we are currently residing, one cannot help but notice the firearm toting soldiers hanging around town and the fighter jets wailing through the surrounding airspace. Let me say that just yesterday I had the pleasure of observing a fancy military auto cruising down a Leh street as I shivered outside of a laundromat. This convalescent gem of a vehicle made the other cars look as primitive as horse drawn carriages. Joining the fight must be a bit more lucrative than the provincial farming practice.

Aside from nasty border disagreement business, there is a wonderful Tibetan Buddhist tradition to be found here and Leh itself is a prime example of the effects of modernization and growth on previously small self sustaining communities, which is definitely a topic that I'm not used to thinking about. Before I abandon this blog entry and sever all communication with my familiars back at home or those tracking the blog for some three weeks, let me just say that one aspect of Indian culture which was prevalent in Delhi has touched me deeply. The element of Indian culture that I find to be extremely foxy is the acceptance of exporting snot and congestion freely in public. "These are my people!", I exclaimed, upon confirming this fact of daily life with someone who knew the culture more intimately. What relief! A disgusting intolerance for blowing boogers and expectorating phlegm- NON EXISTENT! This may seem trivial or undeserving of such praise to some, but for a fellow plagued with throat drip goo like myself, it is truly a beacon of hope.

Sincerely,
Wa De-Ji

P.S. Backgammon is my new favorite hobby. I'm almost ashamed that it took exposure to a noble culture such as the one that I am immersed in at the moment to revive my inherent instinct to play the ancient game. Americans have unfortunately repressed the Backgammon skill that we all, as human beings, possess.

P.S. I don't care about the controversy surrounding Sathya Sai Baba. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sathya_Sai_Baba">That man has irrefutable style.

in the land of karma

Wade said it, not me, but I figured it was fitting for a title.
Tomorrow we leave for Domkhar where homestays and short-term ISPs await. I am absolutely thrilled. It still hasn't even been a week yet and it already feels as though several lifetimes have passed. Ladakh is so rich, you can feel it with every oxygen deprived breath, every slow and steady step.
I cannot recall another time in my life where I have felt so artistically inspired. Everything I see somehow communicates this language to my spirit, igniting or awakening this intense artistic desire and passion that has been sleeping for too long. All I feel inclined to do is explore, photograph, write, draw. As many of you may know, this past year has been quite difficult for me in the creative sense. To remember why I love to create...
This may sound really lame, and Mom I know you will love it, but this is the truth. Sorry for being a sappy sap face.
I cannot describe the way that I feel, but it closely parallels incredible. Not yet ecstatic, but it is only the first week.
I am beyond excited to continue this journey, and to further uncover what greatness is left within these next 3 months.
Wow.
Ok.
ridiculous.
:)
Love you all exponentially,
Mirise

Natalie's sketch book sampler.....

NATALIE1.jpg

NATALIE2.jpg

NATALIE3.jpg

NATALIE4.jpg

NATALIE5.jpg

September 22, 2008

I've Got a Case of the Mondays

Greetings Planet Earth, it's 3:45 PM India time which means it's 6:15 AM in the land of my birth and 10:15 AM in the land of my comrades. It has been ten days since we first met in the backwoods of New Jersey and has been seven days since we arrived in India. There are still roughly one thousand nine hundred and ninety (1990) hours left in this trip. We started out with eleven people not including Tracy and Justin. We lost one before we even left for India, and by tomorrow we will have lost two more, both for reasons which out of respect I will not elaborate upon. That leaves eight out of eleven, that is beyond decimation, which literally means to lose one out of ten. Shit. The frequency might be courage, but right now I'm feeling a whole lot of sadness. It's a selfish sadness, after all I'm still here, again I'm not elaborating out of respect. But, really...shit. Shit. S-h-i-t, would accurately describe my emotional well being, I'm holding back tears as I type this, it might be because there are two beautiful Ladahki girls sitting next to me and I'm too embarrassed to, but believe me I want to cry. I was reading some Kurt Vonnegut today, he talked about how laughter and crying are essentially similar emotional responses because we resort to them when we feel absolutely helpless in a situation. I don't feel like laughing, I might later but I don't now. Laughing is good for your health, crying is too. I guess that means crying from laughter is about as healthy an activity as you can participate in...well I can still make jokes, even if they are not funny. The frequency is courage. There is a humorous back story to that, I suggest you Wikipedia it for a good laugh. Wikipedia is really slow here, it means I can't read about Scientology to cheer myself up. I understand the Marriott hotel in Islamabad no longer exists, I also understand Russia is to play "war games" off the coast of Venezuela...it's nice to know the world really has its priorities in order. Shit. Screw ending poverty, let's blow some shit up, I feel that is an appropriate motto not only for the nation of Russia, but for most other nations. God bless Iceland, they don't have an "armed forces," three cheers for Sweden too, they've given up on this horseshit as well. If there is one lesson to be learned from this blog post, it is that upstanding domestic and foreign policy results in the birth of extremely beautiful human beings, I speak of course of Denmark and Finland and Iceland and Norway and Sweden. Three cheers for Scandinavia! Wow, this is sure related to India. The two beautiful Ladahki girls have left...I can start crying now. Oh well, that's it for now. Don't worry about me too much Mom and Dad, I'll be fine, most everyone here is an absolutely beautiful human being, they tend to respect crying...and laughter.

We'll meet again, don't know where don't know when.
-Doug B.

Onwards, to Domkhar- and Yak milking (Hopefully)

wade.jpg
Wade contemplates the Wheel of Life at Lama Yuru Monastery

Oh boy, Oh boy- how I yearn to milk a Yak. Tomorrow the group sets out for the village of Domkhar, a five hour automobile trip away. Apparently, we will be able to choose between a public bus or jeep-esque vehicle for the excursion. I can't say that I have much of an opinion concerning that. It is in Domkhar that we will all begin our first home stays, which has individuals within the group either giddy with excitement or weighted down with fear. I'm not quite sure which category I fall into, as my attitude towards the upcoming experience fluctuates constantly. I simply want to be able to connect with my family there and have a good ol' time. I can see it now: My goofy self in the center of a Ladakhi household, sipping on sweet butter tea, ruining dinner in the kitchen, or giggling with the family child. I'm oh so very excited.

I just want to milk a yak and rest my head against it's heaving body during the process.
I could even make a butter sculpture using Yak's milk that I've extracted myself!
That's all an American boy could ask for.

With everlasting love,
Wa De-Ji

P.S. Expect a Yak poem upon my return to a place that sports an internet connection.

P.S.S. Familiarize yourself with this majestic creature while I'm gone:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/YAK

September 25, 2008

In the Village, the Peaceful Village...

Jullay!

We spent a wonderful day exploring connections with the youth of Domkhar at the local government high school (High school means classes 1 - 10 and government means public). We engaged in conversations about cultural differences, played local games, and performed our best accapella rendition of "The Lion Sleeps Tonight" including a thrilling representation of actual lions by Wade and Justin that playfully frightened the school children into giggles.

Yesterday, we spent the afternoon on Namgial's fields harvesting buckwheat, then carrying the bundles of stalks up to the shucking place on the rooftop of his brother's house. The harvesting was accompanied by lots of laughter, breaks for tea and biscuts, and crop circles in the shape of hearts which reminded me of Harrison's beard-art from last spring.

Everyone seems to be settling in with their homestay families - enjoying learning more Ladakhi language, song and dance, and fending off small children who like to climb all over you. We're all taking this opportunity to connect more deeply with Ladakhi village culture, and sharpen our backgammon skills. We love Domkhar!

Tomorrow, we spend the day with our families and meet up in the afternoon for our second Hindi language class of many. Justin and I are looking forward to a walk up to the high pasture of Domkhar where we can test our skills at breathing air even LESS full of oxygen than at this 9,000ft above sea level. We'll get some good views of the surrounding peaks and hopefully have some images to share when we get back to Leh and have fast internet connections.

Hope all is well stateside!

Tracy and Justin

September 30, 2008

Antibiotics and Rocks Shaped like Two Dogs Kissing

I was told I have to blog.
I don’t have much to say.

I am finally over a rather literally gut wrenching illness which handicapped me from the ending of Domkhar until just today.

Unfortunately, for the final three days of home stays, I was bedridden and unable to eat much, but that does not taint the experience I had there at all.

Going into the experience, I was really nervous, and terribly anxious, and at times wanting to run to an airport and fly home, but of course… who would want to cop out. So, as shy and uncomfortable and awkward as I was, I managed to sit at meal times with a family of five. On the first night, I was sitting against the wall, drinking copious amounts of butter tea, and shrinking quickly into a fit of panic and fear, unsure if I was going to be able to deal with this new experience I had been thrust into. My mother, who was busy making dinner, turned to me right at the peak of an intense wave of anxiety, bordering slightly on an acute panic attack, and her face grew very concerned. She must have noticed my problem, because she frowned, stepped closer to me, and asked “Toilet?”. Yes, most definitely, toilet. At that moment, we acquired a bond that continued to grow through the course of my stay at their home. Her name was Angmo, and I was actually really sad when it was time to go. One night, I taught her how to play Go Fish. Now, to all American folk, I know that Go Fish is probably the easiest of all card games to learn how to play. However, due to language barriers and differences in culture that result in having no idea how to play any card games in the first place, teaching someone to play this was really hard. After about 20 minutes of explaining and re-explaining, she finally understood, and proceeded to thoroughly kick my butt. She is an incredible woman and I will never forget her. She told me that when I get home in December I have to call her, so that she could make sure I made it home safely.

Continue reading "Antibiotics and Rocks Shaped like Two Dogs Kissing" »

Domkhar to SECMOL

I spoke with Tracy this morning and she reported that the group had arrived at the SECMOL school outside of Leh after a great stay in Domkhar village. Other than Justin suffering a minor ankle sprain on the volleyball court, all are well and enjoying time with the students at SECMOL. Tracy said the Internet was down for several days in Ladakh, but they are hoping to get some blog posts up before heading out on the trek in another few days.

John

October 1, 2008

All's Well at SECMOL

Tsangma-la Jullay!

Greetings to everyone from SECMOL in Phey, Ladakh where today was a busy day of English Conversation class getting to know our new friends here on campus in addition to our first round of washing clothes by hand and getting 'geared' up for our 10 day trek in the Markha Valley. I'm enjoying watching the students connect to the SECMOLpas in this amazing community.

We'll not have internet access regularly for about another 12 days - so, thanks for everyones' patience! We'll be communicating back to the states via John and the NYC office over the phone while we're out milling around the Zangskar Mountain range. We'll climb two passes - Kanda-la (15,000ft) and Gongmaru-la (17,300ft) during the course of the 10 days, but even more inspiring will be the fall landscape in these sunkissed valleys of the Trans Himalaya. We'll camp each night after walking 6-8 hours each day and share lots of reflection time about our trip together this far. We'll also learn about Leave No Trace ethics, interact with the villages near to our campsites, and of course (this is my favorite part!) share bedtime stories about Ladakhi culture written by Abdul Ghani Shiek, a well-known author and member of the Muslim community here in Ladakh. I think the excitement is outweighing the nerves at this point after Justin and I checked through everyone's gear today and we're all looking very prepared.

We all hope everything is well in the states despite the news we're hearing about the economy.

More soon,

Tracy

It's October Already?

ari.jpg

So, I survived my first homestay! I went into it so terrified and came out with the amazing experience of being part of a Ladakhi family for a week. In that week, I:

1. Learned how to use a two story compost toilet without falling down the hole
2. Harvested barley wheat
3. Harvested turnips
4. Harvested green beans
5. Mistook my homestay sister for a brother. That was terribly awkward.
6. Failed at making mok-moks (traditional Ladakhi dumplings)
7. Took part in an epic volleyball battle between the GLAB students and Domkhar HS students. We lost. Four times out of four.
8. Did not take a shower
9. And was totally fine with it
10. Grabbed a bull by the horns

Okay, so it was more like the bull was peacefully nibbling on a pile of freshly harvested turnips and I tied a rope around its horns and dragged it out of the garden. But technically, that counts, right?

I’ve found the school system here to be absolutely fascinating. There are a lot of things I don’t agree with about the system, like how stressful the 10th grade exam is. It reminds me of No Child Left Behind, the way that the standardized test is emphasized above all. The focus seems to be on memorizing facts than independent thinking, because memorization is what passes on the 10th grade exam and if you don’t pass, you can’t go on with your education. To put into perspective how hard and stressful this exam is, you only need a 33% to pass and currently, the pass rate is 30%. Up from 5%, to be sure, but still. What I observed in my two days at Domkhar High School was marked timidity and a lack of self confidence among the students, and it just kills me because I can imagine the effects a system like this would have on me. I would be a completely different person. See, I thought I had problems with American education—that’s why I’m on this trip. I wanted a different way of learning. But to me, the education here seems so much more unforgiving, and I at once realize how good I had it and how much I wish I could give the students an education experience like I had. It just hurts me to see people so similar to me being so uncomfortable. I’m not sure I’m articulating myself the way I want to…

Luckily, someone’s doing something about school here. Right now, we’re at SECMOL, the Student’s Educational and Cultural Movement of Ladakh. It’s an NGO that’s trying to raise the passing rate of the exam by changing how schools teach, but in the meantime they are housing 10th grade students who didn’t pass the exam and building up their confidence in themselves and academics. The difference between the high school and this hostel is incredible. Students here are outgoing and comfortable and so self-sufficient. Another great thing about SECMOL is that it’s run on almost all solar power and it’s got a really developed recycling program. All in all it’s a great example of innovative education and green building. I love being able to experience this, and see how well it works.

By the way, I milked a cow today. It’s a pretty unique experience.

So, we leave on the third for our 10 day trek in Marka Valley. I’m pretty pumped about it. We’re covering around 100 miles on foot and going up to 17,000 feet at one point.

Hope all is well back home. Seriously, we’ve been hearing crazy things about the economy. But anyways. See y’all later!

Ari

I Tried!

So, this is my first blog post, and Tracy just serenaded me in celebration. Her guitar playing is fantastic, but it did build the pressure for this post, so here goes…

We are at SECMOL right now, a fantastic institution which Ari explained in her recent post. I am stricken by the Indian education system, and think I would have been an absolutely miserable student here. The exams, which are crucial for progression, are based all upon memorization, but SECMOL encourages a more practical system of learning, based on imagination and experience. It is really cool to talk to the kids, who are about our ages and get to know the school.

Last week we did homestays in Domkhar. I was really scared at first but it was a completely positive experience. The children in my family, Tashi Lahmo and Gurmet Dorjay, both spoke English, so I could communicate with them. Gurmet and I bonded immediately, he is sweet and smart and asked lots of questions. We would walk around the property, play with the dogs, cows, and cats. They had a little beach next to the Indus River and we made sandcastles and talked about science, his favorite subject. Tashi Lahmo and I bonded over song and dance. She taught me how to do traditional Ladakhi dance, and although I was bad, it endeared me to the family. She also taught me all the words to the current Ladakhi hit, “Miss Call.” Everywhere we go in Ladakh, people are amused by me singing it.

I am really struggling with trying to put this experience into words in a way appropriate for internet dissemination, but I made my best effort. I will continue to make the brunt of my contribution through drawings, so check out the flickr photos.

-Natalie

Acronyms are FUN

Its 9:55 PM in Ladakh which means its 12:25 PM where I was born and 5:25 PM where my mom was born (Morocco), greetings from SECMOL, short for Students Educational and Cultural Movement of Ladakh. We begin our trek through the Markha Valley on the 3rd of October. I don’t know where that is…it’s in India. News from the US seems to be continually and increasingly bad. Fear not though, will all soon be under the watchful guise of a man who crashed his plane five times and a woman who thinks that humans and dinosaurs used to coexist…yeehah! I was worried the country would collapse if I left, so I apologize in advance for unleashing this upon you all. Staying in Domkhar for a week was fun, there I discovered two passions:

1. Spitting hot fire (Rapping)
2. Dancing traditional Ladakhi grooves (Making an idiot of myself)

Mom, guess what?! I’m not going to shave my face while I’m in India; I’m going to comeback a woolly mammoth, tusks and all. I’m doing this partially out of laziness but also because Wade is largely incapable of growing facial hair so I have volunteered to be a vessel for this dream of his. I’m a humanitarian, what can I say. At this point in the trip, I have one thing I miss more than anything else in the world: Ice, this country is devoid of it. A cold drink here is rarer than a snow leopard. The chocolate here isn’t up to snuff either, I don’t know what it is about Western society but hot damn can we make chocolate and chill drinks perhaps that should be the definition of a developed nation.

The road signs here are hilarious, as well as thoughtful. Here are a few examples for your amusement:

“I am Curvaceous, Be Slow.”
“Be Mr. Late, Not Late Mr.”
“No Race, No Rally, Enjoy Beauty of the Valley”
“Speed is a Knife Which Cuts Short the Life”

That’s it for now. Hopefully I’ll have something more insightful to say after trek. Sorry I was in a silly mood tonight. Anyway, it has been a pleasure as always.

We’ll meet again, don’t know where don’t know when.

-Doug B.

October 2, 2008

Bye Bye Domkhar

HI!
How is everything at home? We're having a great time!! We left Domkar a few days ago and now we're at SECMOL, which is an NGO/hostel/school. It's great here, but the best part is that they're almost completely solar powered- it's so inspiring! Domkhar was a lot of fun. My house had four generations is it, and so it was very interesting to see interactions. Most of the people in my family didn't speak any English, so I really had to push myself to connect with them non-verbally. It was hard , but so very worth is\t in the end. Spending time at the school was great. I had tons of fun, especially with the little kids.

We leave for trek soon. I'm so excited, but I think we're all a little nervous too. But it'll be so much fun!

Love to everyone,
Kate

Ladakhi traverse

Jullay to all!!

Climbers often refer to "traversing" a mountain face. I am not a climber by any means, but as we have traveled back and forth across Ladakh, it feels like we are "traversing" this terrain. The mountains are tall and jagged and they provide epic views. Mentally, it has created a wonderful sense of adventure for me and it seems like every turn provides some new aspect of the land and culture in Ladakh.

Our group has done a lot over the past couple of weeks and it seems like with every activity we are growing ever closer. Currently, we are staying at SECMOL, an educational non-profit helping Ladakhi students prepare for higher education and/or life in general. The students are wonderful. They welcomed us with open hearts and minds. It seemed as if we were old family re-uniting once again. This is amazing, when you think about it, as our group and the local students are about as far away, geographically, as possible on the earth. This time has reminded me of the power of open-mindedness. We have engaged in chores around the grounds, English language classes, song and dance sessions and so much more. It will be difficult to leave this environment, as the connections we are developing are quickly deepening.

Soon, we will depart on trek and into a new aspect of the program. It will surely provide challenges for us that we haven't experienced yet. I am sure, however, that our group is ready for the challenges and will undoubtedly connect even deeper with each other.

That is all for now.

Be well and we look forward to hearing from all of you,

Justin
Leh, Ladakh October 2nd, 2008

Greetings From Sam

Hey group how is it going? I miss you guys so much and New York is really not all that great, i got to escape to Martha's Vineyard for a week where i got to so some fishing for the fishing derby up there. To be honest I wish I was with you guys, I feel like I have left my family in another country. Hope everyone is doing ok and hope trek goes well for everyone. I have some poems to put up especially considering a tropical storm hit the vineyard while I was there, and it was really something, (no major damage done). And day before i got there a plane went into my friends house on the vineyard and the propellor is in his living room, sad though the pilot died. well hope you guys are doing well, and Mirise you better be taking good care of those speakers.

October 3, 2008

Awesome Strikes Back

vball.jpg
Tim goes up for the kill--and misses.

Generic Witty Title

I always seem to be blogging when I’m distracted. Justin is talking about how he threw up before every college football game. Mirise is making animal noises. Wade is passed out with his notebook on his face. Sandy just took a picture of me, and the flash is making the computer screen trippy. Doug is camouflaged in a pile of bags. Now Ari just took a picture of me…ow. I can no longer see the computer screen. Sorry parents if I didn’t mention your kid. I’m sure they’re doing something equally interesting!

Everyone is sick! I had my one sick day, but that was it. We’re at SECMOL right now, which is the Student Educational and Cultural Movement of Ladakh. Ow, another picture. It’s pretty cool here, but I really want to leave on our trek. I’m super-ultra-pumped for that.

We just finished up our homestays in Dhomkhar, which was an amazing experience. We were all jealous of Wade because he appeared to hit the familial jackpot. He had three adorable little brothers and crazy spoon-throwing grandparents. I was pretty happy with my family, though. Ow. This laptop is a flash magnet.

I had a little brother who was 13, an older brother of 23, a mom, and a dad. I felt somewhat awkward at first because I was alone with my little brother who was shy. He wasn’t all crazy ga-ga-goo-goo-oh-my-god-Americans like the other kids were; he was much more reserved. My little brother and my dad spoke good English, so I had some conversations with them, with some humorous miscommunications. The first question I asked my dad was about the ceiling, and he responded by telling me his family’s annual income. Some wires got crossed.

After the first night, things got much easier though. My little brother opened up a lot more, and we became really good buddies. But out of all the things I did that made other kids laugh, my little brother never laughed as hard as when I farted. Farts clearly transcend all cultural boundaries.

I couldn’t talk much with my mom or my older brother, and my dad left after the first night to go work in another city, but I had some fun interactions with them. My mom taught me how to churn butter, and my older brother showed me how to chop turnips without killing myself. Cool stuff!

That’s all I’m gunna cover from Domkhar, for the purposes of time and because I have to pee. I was really touched by the welcoming spirit of the people in Domkhar, though. They accepted me into their lives as a member of the family without any reservations. That hospitality is something I’ll never forget. It was also so valuable to see a completely different way of life. Really cool stuff. And I really have to pee. Farewell from India!

Hi Mom!

-Tim

The Dogs of the Desert

It’s 10:30 PM India time on the 3rd of October. There is a very good chance this will not be posted before we go on trek, which will render it basically pointless, but what the hell, here it goes anyway:

Dear Mom, Dad, and Bek,
I leave tomorrow for a 9-10 day trek through the scenic Markha Valley to a spectacular mountain top location. It will likely be the most physically demanding experience of my life. Don’t worry; there are pack animals to carry the bags. Chances are it will probably demand quite a bit on the mental and emotional spectrum as well. Don’t worry; there will also be a large artificial family for me to confide in and draw strength from, if sixth grade English taught me anything it’s that you don’t end sentences with prepositions so I will not. You see what I did there? Crap, I ended that one with a preposition. Whatever, to summarize, I feel as though I am heading into this trek, and in many ways this whole three month crucible as a piece of graphite. I’m hoping to emerge from it as a diamond. Hopefully ten days in the mountains or three months in India will be an adequate substitute for a million years of intense heat a pressure deep within the Earth’s crust. I may well emerge a rough diamond, still in need of cutting and polishing, but I feel I might be getting a little to into the analogy, so I’ll just call it quits here. There’s that god damned preposition again…poop. Regardless of what happens on this trip I feel as though I may forever be at the mercy of the English language. Packs of wild dogs live out in the desert here, I’m glad they’ve managed to eek out an existence despite being forgotten by their “best friend.”

The Frequency is Courage
-Doug B.

P.S. I love everyone.

Dearest Everybody

We’re writing blog updates to be posted in Leh when Tracy and Justin next go in. I’m sure my classmates (wandering-around-india-mates? Still not sure what to call them…) have just dazzled you with insight and wit. I’m going to warn you in advance that this will probably be a long and ramble-y breather from both of those things.

Anyway, I’m sure people have already mentioned when we got attacked by snow leopards on the walk between Namgial’s house and the composting toilets, and the unexpected pit of molten lava we had to tightrope across with our clunkalicious backpacks on the way to SECMOL, and all the interesting characters we met hitchhiking the remainder of the way when, after lunch, we found our jeep crushed by a yeti and all of our personal hygiene items missing. But I’ll just go ahead and debrief on the week we just spent in Domkhar.
Let’s see.. what can I say?
Domkhar is a little town; it’s a quiet village.
Every day like the one before.
Little town, full of little people, waking uuppp tooo sayyyyy-

…sorry. It’s an impulse.

It was a good week. My family consisted of my Aba-le (father), Ama-le (mother), my older bother Thupstan (post-college, I think in his 20’s. He is balding and identified a lot with you, dad, when I showed them all my pictures), and my grade 10 sister, Dolma, who is about my age and who is an absolute sweetheart.

Continue reading "Dearest Everybody" »

October 8, 2008

Don't drop the soap in the river...

Below some messages from the mountains, as relayed via cell phone and email from Tracy to Namgial to Global LAB's NYC office:

Mirise says, tell my family I love them.

Wade says: wooden saddles are rough on the tail bone.

Sandy says: she still loves chai.

Tim sends a generic non verbal gesture.

Ari says: Tell my family I've camped outside for 4 nights now and i am not even freaking out.

Tracy has found a renewed love of UNO ( the card game) which has been a constant during afternoon tea and says "I think it's safe to say trekking fits well with everyone and we are going to be sad to leave the trail in a few days."

Doug has requested that "don't drop the soap in the river" be the title of the entry.

October 13, 2008

Mental Pictures

A few mental pictures from the trek:

The jagged mountains jut out from the ground, some snow-capped, others not. A rushing river speeds by as we eat a lunch of cheese, bread and assorted condiments. Many of the students sprawl out on rocks in the shade as the sun is a bit too intense at this point during the day. Wade and Natalie sit chatting a few feet away. Their faces lit-up by the bright afternoon sun.

Over a thousand feet of vertical rise stares us in the face. A thin path splits the mountain side in two. We are at about 15000 feet and climbing. Doug and Tim are in the distance on horses. Even the animals built for this terrain struggle up the steep mountain side. We march. Slowly. Each step reaffirming our aspirations to not only conquer this mountain, but our inner daemons as well. I pause, turn to the West and take in the mountain vistas. Mirise, our leader for the day, walks on, leading us to our "spectacular high mountain location."

The mountain plummets as we descend from the pass. A thin, snow covered path leads us sideways down the mountain. I turn back to see if the students are safe. Their smiles are alternated with looks of concentration as the path provides many obstacles to overcome. In the distance our faithful horses, Artex and Pegasus, slip and slide down the trail. Small pieces of snow role down the mountain side leaving vertical streaks. We have done it... we have conquered a 17500 pass and are on the descent. Accomplishment fills the air.

These are just a few of the mental pictures that I "took" during our trek. The terrain provided wonderful challenges and our group persevered cold nights, difficult weather and rushing rivers. We passed through over 110 kilometers of the prettiest terrain possible. The mountains spoke to us and allowed us to have a safe journey... for this, I am grateful. As our group enters into the next phase of our program, I must recognize the courage and strength showed by each of the students over the past ten days. I am very grateful to have spent this time with them, as I learned so much.

Justin
Leh, Ladakh October 13th, 2008

Homeish

mirise.jpg

Hey everyone. Back in Leh as of last night, trek ended after 9 physically, emotionally, and mentally grueling days lost, but not too lost, within the Himalayas. My body is tired, my emotions are tired, my head is tired. I am excited to rest up here in this city that has become so familiar to me. I'm glad I have found some form of comfort here in this very uncomfortable situation. Other than familiar places bringing me peace of mind, the new found friendships that are quickly growing stronger every day have helped so much.

I had another blog post, one about homestays in Domkhar, that has not yet been posted so my next entry will be not in chronological order with this one, but Tracy said that people were dying to hear from us, so I'm blogging.
The things India is bringing up for me are really different from anything I expected, or wanted to achieve for myself, but as they are brought up I am realizing how totally necessary and important all of these things are. Like new found love for my family, who I miss so much and can't wait to call in an hour when they are awake. Or a new found sense of gratitude and privilege for being brought up where I was, how I was, when I was, and for the life I have led, and continue to lead. I am thoroughly grateful for all of the simple things, and it's wonderful. I can safely say that Ladakh in general brought this out in me, but especially homestays, which you will all hear about in the near future, hopefully.

Today I successfully washed all of my dirty, smelly, disgusting trek clothing, on the bathroom floor with a running faucet, a bucket, and a bar of soap, scrubbing, twisting, rescrubbing, soaking, soaping, scrubbing, smacking, scraping, watering, twisting, rinsing, and then drying. Also, the first shower I took after trek consisted of me huddled on the floor underneath the same faucet i washed my clothes with this morning, sitting beneath a trickle of warm water. It was the only way any hot water would come out.

Continue reading "Homeish" »

TREK

grouptrek.jpg

Hi everyone!!

Well, we're back in Leh. It's so odd to no longer be in the middle of nowhere. When the cars picked us up yesterday, it was shocking to realize that we'd been in places that are only accessible by foot (or pony) for the past week. Trek was tons of fun, but it was physically hard. Most of our days were 8 hours long, and the second pass was at 17,300 ft. But looking back, it was so incredibly worth it. We all got so much closer, and it's an awesome feeling to know how hard you pushed yourself physically. Today, we went to lunch at a restaurant on the third story. Someone said that last time we went there, a week or two before trek, they were winded walking up the stairs...and now we're all so strong!! We also did laundry today...I washed my treking clothing at least four times and the water was still turning murky! But I think (hope) they're clean now! In a couple of days, we go Delhi and then the retreat is soon. I'm nervous, but also very very excited.
I'll write more soon!
Love,
Kate

They Can't All Be Zingers

Good morning America, it's 4:10 PM here in Leh, which means it's 6:40 AM in DC and 10:40 AM in Morocco. Trek is over, yet, I am no diamond, at least not of the quality you would find in your local jeweler. I'm tired of that analogy so I'm gonna drop it. Mom and Dad, I have quite a story to tell you, I'll save it for a phone call though, it is inappropriate for this medium. Others will no doubt describe trek in detail so I won't, I have other things to discuss. Boy, did the shit really hit the fan back home...I had so much to say during trek, I now find myself speechless, I don't know what to talk about. Something is troubling me, but I'm unsure what it is. I haven't been meditating as much as I should, perhaps that might help to alleviate this mental funk I'm in. I'm really sorry, I'm actually disappointed with myself for saying so little. It seems I still have many more mountains to climb, of both the physical and emotional varieties. I know I'll have more to say later, until then.

The Frequency is Courage.
-Doug B.

P.S. Mon and Dad I'm calling you...now.

October 14, 2008

Sorry

Hi Mom and Dad, sorry I didn't call you last night, I got screwed over logistically and so I never had time to call. The internet here is taking failure to a new level and not allowing me to e-mail you either so I'm sorry for that as well. It's 2:35 AM in DC so I can't call now but I promise you I will call later, between 7 and 10 AM your time. Even if I have to throw somebody out of the phone booth, rest assured, I will call.

The Frequency is Courage.
-Doug B.

P.S. McFloozy, who are you?

Trek Tea and Thankas

AriNatalie.jpg
Natalie and Ari hanging prayer flags on trek

I really loved the trek. 9 days in the wilderness, constantly surrounded by unbelievable mountain views. The highest peak we summitted was 17,100 ft, covered in snow. And then we went "sledding" down, sliding down the mountain. We had ponies along with us, which of course, I loved. There's lots more to say about that, but I think everyone else had got it covered.

One of my favorite experience so far on the trip has been hanging out at the local Thanka center, which is the Tibetan style of painting. I stumbled upon it during our first day in Leh, but could only spend a little time. Since then, I have been back twice, both times for over two hours. My second time going in, the owner, Chokeyi, recognized me and said "Oh! The artist!" So I sat down and looked through piles and piles of breathtaking paintings. They come in 4 styles - a depiction of a single deity, a story of the Buddha's life, the wheel of life, and my personal favorite, the mandala. Chokeyi and her husband, Karma, have an immense wealth of knowledge and are so happy to share it all. Each piece takes months to make, and years of training. They spent the non-tourist season traveling around and collecting pieces from the best artists they know. Chokeyi would tell me about the different qualities of pieces, and then say, "Well, you're an artists, you can tell" (and I could). I drank many cups of chai with them as they taught me about what the things inside each piece meant, and the Buddhist religion. My favorite moment came yesterday, on my third visit. We have heard a lot about Buddhism from a very academic standpoint, which is fascinating, but Karma really gave me an idea of the philosophy behind it. He said that the idea of Buddhism is really to have a good heart, and to try and be a good person. Your mind helps to facilitate good deeds, but it starts in the heart. And by being a good person, that radiates outward and influences others in a really powerful way. When I left the center (after having made some great purchases, with a nice discount just because) Chokeyi asked for my email so they can show me when they make a website, told me to come back when I was in Leh, and gave me a big hug. And I felt such an amazing feeling, a powerful warmth of spirit. At dinner that night, the whole group sensed it. I didn't realize until the next morning that that was exactly what Karma was talking about. His warmth and kindness filled me with the same feeling, which I then passed on. Such a powerful idea, and I love that I learned it through just taking time to talk to people I encountered sort of randomly.

Tomorrow we go back to Delhi, and will visit the Nas foundation - an NGO for women's rights and sexual freedom (they are working to decriminalize homosexuality, which is still technically illegal in India) and hostel for HIV positive youth. And then, hopefully, a Bollywood film. I am so excited for both. Afterwards, an overnight train to Amritsar to visit the Golden Temple, the holiest site for Sikhs, with completely free room and board for anyone. And then to Dharamsala. Excitement.

Sorry family and friends for the copypaste.

October 17, 2008

Off to Amritsar

Friends, family, onlookers of all kinds,

After a whirlwind stop in Delhi, packed with visits to museums, foundations (including a great meeting at Naz India) and sights around town, we are off to the Amritsar and the Golden Temple. This brief stay should serve as a good re-charge in time for Dharamsala.

Ladakh ended wonderfully. On our last night, we joined our local contacts for a wonderful meal of momos (traditional Ladakhi/Tibetan dumplings) and an evening of story telling. It provided a reflective atmosphere where we were able to speak our minds, laugh and have a whole lot of fun I believe we will all miss Ladakh and the connections we made, but it was time to move on.

That is all for now. More entries and photos are coming, so stay tuned.

Many blessings to you all,

Justin
Leh, Ladakh October 17th, 2008

October 18, 2008

My Time Onboard the Junkfood Express

It is 9:00 PM in India, 11:30 AM in DC, and 3:30 PM in Morocco. I am on a train between New Delhi and Amritsar, currently somewhere in the state of Haryana. We are riding in 2nd Class Sleeper cars. I am writing this on a thin blue cot reminiscent of the beds in the school nurses office, those however contain far more padding. We left at about 7 PM and are due to arrive in Amritsar, home of the Golden Temple, at roughly 5 AM on the 18th of October, my best friend Paolo’s birthday. The locomotive is still in its golden age in India, however Tracy has said with the growing popularity of the “horseless-carriage” its glory days are fleeting…fast. It is a lovely and quaint way to travel. Your food is actually delivered to you, something those bastards at Amtrak could learn from. There are a plethora of goods being hawked at you constantly: pillows, chai, coffee, various foods, soda, water, even soap. The bathroom is literally a hole in the floor of the train. There are a number of sinks for hand washing, after all cleanliness is next to godliness. It is like a moving city, even the beggars will come on board, baby in one arm the other stuck out with hand open asking for rupees. It is a pitiful sight, I still can’t look them in the eye without feeling guilty, and then the tears begin to well up. I’ve become quite adept at holding back what would’ve only a month ago reduced me to an incoherent, sobbing wreck. At least I still feel it, thank god (take your pick: Jesus, numerous Hindu deities, Buddha, Singh, the Flying Spaghetti Monster) I still feel it.

Continue reading "My Time Onboard the Junkfood Express" »

A thought about street children.. plus some other bits of hither and thither

Child_Rajast.jpg

sooo, a thought about street kids:

Street children are all over the place. I saw, for instance, three shoeshiner boys outside our hotel a few days ago, to whom we talked for a few minutes the last time we were in Delhi. We saw a trio of children wearing fake moustaches, doing backflips and playing percussion outside the American embassy. You see child beggars constantly, and kids combing the streets for plastic bottles and cardboard that can be sold to recycling companies for material money.

I’ve been thinking about them a lot. What bothers me most is the thought not that they are lacking material possessions, because the more I’ve come to think and understand and learn about “poverty,” I’ve come to feel like certain materially “poor” communities can often be happier and richer in a lot of ways than the striving, progress-driven Western society. There’s so much I feel like I took away from my week farming in Domkhar, or from the school in AP. Rather, what stings me about watching street kids is the thought that many of them don’t have anywhere to go or anyone to turn to. Some of them, I’m sure, live with and earn money for their parents. But a lot of children are completely independent and living on the streets of Delhi. I can’t imagine having no one to look out for me. That sucks.

Yesterday, after we spent some time at this Sufi dancing ceremony thinger, we were standing around on the street. Buying kabobs. This little girl came up to us, asking for money. “ten rupee,” she says with one of those practiced “aren’t I sweet and unfortunate looking? Give me money you know you want to” looks. (They know what they’re doing).

Continue reading "A thought about street children.. plus some other bits of hither and thither" »

October 19, 2008

Keep watching, I might do a trick.

So we're back in the lowlands of India and honestly, I couldn't be happier about the heat and the humidity. And being able to wear all my favorite salwar kamizes again. Amritsar is beautiful- almost like Delhi but with a hair less pollution and traffic, with the added bonus of a huge golden temple right on our doorstep. The temple is set up with a hotel and kitchen to serve all pilgrims who come, providing food and lodging free of charge. This means that we all slept on raised boards last night, but actually, it was kind of fun, and definitely better than sleeping on the floor of the courtyard. The kitchen organization is astounding- it's only run by volunteers which means that there are enough interested people to wash dishes, make food and serve other pilgrims 24 hours a day.

Being in such a holy Sikh site prompted a discussion of non-violence yesterday. It was great to expand my definition of non-violence as "reacting peacefully" to something more detailed, like "leading by example" and "a creative way of responding forcefully." It brought up so many other questions for me, too, like the difference between non-violence and non-reactionism, and how peace can be just as forceful as violence. And then I was able to use these new thoughts in my own life only moments later. See, traveling as a group of white people, we attract a lot of attention. Locals will stop and watch us for ages, although we're doing nothing more exciting than standing in a circle and talking, or buying stuff at a store, or just walking down the street. This has started to irritate me, and then anger me, because I don't understand what they think is so interesting about us- surely they've seen tourists before? And when it happens, I'll often think loudly in my head, "Would they just get out of my FACE already??" But then yesterday I realized how violent that was. And how shocking it was to have such a violent voice in my head, and how I don't want it to be there. So I'm working on responding to the staring with non-violence- I just have to find a creative way of responding. Such as, isn't it cool that everyone wants to look at me when I walk down the street?

Non Violence and Double Helpings of Kheer

Sasriyakaal!

This is the greeting used amongst the folks in the Punjab (pronounced "PUN jab" rather than "POON jab" as Amit continues to remind all of us. Punj means 'five' and Ab means 'river,' so we are in the 'Land of Five Rivers!')

GT.jpg
A Sikh man enjoys an evening bath in the waters surrounding the Golden Temple

We're safely through our first overnight train ride and exploring the Golden Temple here in Amritsar. We've eaten delicious food at the Langar, or community kitchen, where anyone can come to take a meal, and visited Jallianwala Bagh - now the site of a beautiful garden, but once the site of an epic massacre by British Generals on a peaceful gathering of Muslim, Sikh, and Hindu folks in protest of the jailing of revolutionary leaders in the movement against British occupation in 1919.

Also a favorite piece of this semester program for me, we all contributed to a thoughtful conversation about non-violence and how we would define such terms. This theme will follow us along the way as we are hosted by the Tibetan community in Exile, as well as our wonderful Jain hosts in Jaipur. The students are digging deep about what these concepts mean to them and how they affect their own lives.

Continue reading "Non Violence and Double Helpings of Kheer" »

October 22, 2008

Tashi Delek, Loyal Blog Readers!

After two blissful days in the beautiful weather here at McLeod Ganj, we will be heading up the hill to the Tushita Meditation Centre this afternoon to begin our 10 day Intro to Buddhism Course. We are excited for this opportunity to quiet ourselves for a bit of time and process about the trip thus far, and also to learn a bit about Tibetan Buddhism too!

The blog will be a little quiet for these days, but don't lose heart, Suzie McFloozy! We'll be back in action with a full program of guest speakers, hindi language lessons, independent study projects, homestay family stories, and all sorts of other adventures to share. We look forward to reconnecting soon.

Maybe our readers can find a minute for their own silent reflection as they read this post... just a few deep breaths. Breathing is amazing.

All the best, and wish us luck!

Tracy

October 23, 2008

Namaskar India

Namaskar friends
Namaskar discomfort
Namaskar pollution
Namaskar insane driving
Namaskar council
Namaskar Namgial and Dorje
Namaskar sodas without high-fructose corn syrup
Namaskar diesel fumes
Namaskar trash fires
Namaskar Blast Brothers
Namaskar Amit and Gourav
Namaskar mistreated animals
Namaskar bartering
Namaskar lateness
Namaskar inopportune bowel movements
Namaskar to this journey
Namaskar beggars
Namaskar Peter
Namaskar lukewarm beverages

Namaskar to the good and the bad
Namaskar India, and to the magical time we've had

We'll meet again, don't know where don't know when
-Doug B.

October 24, 2008

Election Update I

I can't sleep because it's only 2:33 PM in India, so as requested by Tracy, here is the first of many daily election updates.

Obama is polling ahead of McCain nationwide and in key battleground states according to multiple polls. There is a silver lining to the economic collapse because the more the market drops, the higher Obama polls. People have about had it with Sarah Palin, it was recently released that the Republican National Committee spent $150,000 on clothing for her, stuff like Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue. This is on top of a slew of spending scandals related to her family with Alaskan government funds. Jon Stewart summed it up accurately saying they are grifters. She has turned out to be a liability rather than an asset. That's about it, here are some links for more details.

BBC News Palin's Makeover

The Latest Polls

The Daily Show- Project Beltway

The Frequency is Courage
-Doug B.

October 25, 2008

Election Update II

Not much news to report. Obama is in Hawaii visiting his grandmother who is quite ill. Obama's lead is widening across both national and state polls, but a lot can happen in a week so this thing is far from over. It's safe to say though at present Obama is more or less whopping McCain's ass. Ari I went to your place of employment today and saw a movie, it was alright. It's rainy here, I don't like the rain. Wade I really miss joking around with you, Tim I miss your inopportune farts. I generally miss everybody...except Sandy, her positive attitude was unbearable (That was a joke). I hope everyone's bowels are in tip top shape and that meditation is going well too. That's it for now.

We'll meet again, don't know where don't know when
-Doug B.

October 27, 2008

Election Update III and Useless Information

Could be coincidence but Obama's lead shrank in a number of polls today. Other than that no news to report. Went for a hike with my friend on the Billy Goat Trail today, boy was that nostalgic of trek for me. It was funny though, my leg muscles would have normally been aching but instead there was just a little tingle in them, huzzah, I'M CONDITIONED! Oh, Justin and Tracy, remember how we were discussing old cartoons and we came to that one old Hannah-Barbera cartoon with the blobs and the warrior family and the other beast creatures, well I found out it's called The Herculoids. It's funny, it just happened to be on TV tonight, I never would've known otherwise. Well that's all for now.

The Frequency is Courage
-Doug B.

October 29, 2008

Election Update IV

Well, it's now six days until the election and the McCain campaign is getting visibly desperate. It seems everyday a new anonymous source from inside the McCain campaign calls Sarah Palin something new, rogue, a diva, and a whackjob are the three which I remember. The McCain campaign as well as Republican stooges nationwide have also turned to calling Obama some sort of socialist. Rush Limbaugh has gone so far as to call him a Marxist-Leninist. In a campaign speech yesterday, McCain actually accused Obama of, and I quote him word for word now, "running to be redistributionist-in-chief." This is all in response to an earlier comment by Obama to Joe the Plumber, in which he said that he would like to spread the wealth around. The real irony of the situation is that most of the people flinging this horseshit don't even understand what socialism is, forget the fact that every industrialized democracy on Earth practices major tenants of socialist dogma, including the US. But, whatever, we all have more pressing issues than discussing what smear the McCain campaign is going to use today. Obama's still ahead in the polls, widening in fact, thank Hanuman this thing is almost over.

The Frequency is Courage
-Doug B.

October 31, 2008

Happy Halloween!

We are emerging from a truly beautiful experience at Tushita. Students are with their homestay families and getting settled. We'll have our audience with His Holiness the Karmapa tomorrow! We are all well and looking forward to sharing all of our insights once the Internet is up again here in Dharamsala.

Tracy (via txt msg)

November 2, 2008

Back to the world

Kate_Mother.jpg
Kate with her homestay mother

Hi!

We've been back in Dharamsala for a couple days now, and I'm having a wonderful time. Retreat was a lot of fun and it was great to learn more about Buddhism. My homestay mom is very nice and we've had a lot of fun so far. She lives by herself; a few months ago, her husband and two of her daughters moved to Minnesota a few months ago for school. She needs to stay here for at least a few more years since her oldest daughter is in school near Delhi (she's in 9th grade). She's the sewing and costume master for the Tibetan performing arts school and so she's going to teach me to sew at night. And she's cooked fantastic meals!

Karmapa.jpg
Yesterday, we had a private audience with the Karmapa Lama which was incredible.

Then we had a great lunch at the Norbu Institute, which teaches Tibetan crafts in order to preserve the traditions. We got to go to all of the different workshops and classrooms and see the art in progress- metal/silver work, wood carving, cloth Thankas, painted thankas, seamstresses and the traditional doll museum. For each of the crafts, they have to study for years and years, and then they spend months creating each work of art. We'd all borrowed Chupas (sp?), the Tibetan dresses, from our families so we looked awesome!

Tomorrow, we're starting our ISPs. I'm doing jewelery making with Mirise followed by yoga, which I think most everyone in the group is doing and then sewing in the night. We also have Hindi class in the morning and guest speakers in the afternoon...I'll have a very full day, but I'm so excited :)

Love to you all,
Kate

Election Update V

To be quite honest, I'm getting a little sick of this election. Our democracy, if you can even call it that, is beyond description in its ridiculousness. The polls have widened and narrowed too many times to count. I'm going canvassing in Virginia for Obama in a few minutes. Just so Wade knows I'm still growing my beard. Tracy the movie I saw was called Religulous, it's mainly about (making fun of) the Judeo-Christian religions. It's likely to offend anyone of faith...oh, I saw it in Ari's theater, I don't think I mentioned it before. Two DJ's from Montreal prank called Sarah Palin, have a listen. That's all for now.

The Frequency is Courage
-Doug B.

November 3, 2008

Homestays

homestays.jpg
Students with their families in Dharamsala

Directors.jpg
Justin cries, and Tracy cheers to have their first night "off" in 6 weeks!

November 4, 2008

Tashi Delek

Greetings all who choose to listen,

I hope this post finds all of you in good health and great sprits!!

Our group is settling into a groove here in Dharamsala: ISPs are underway, language classes are going great, our lecture series is rolling along and much more. The weather has been near perfect since we arrived, with the mountians in plain view for most of the day.

The motivation for this blog post is the Tibetan and Chinese conflict that has been occurring for nearly 50 years. The past two days our group has been visited by two Tibetan activists (one affiliated with the Tibetan Youth Congress and one working independently). Each of them provided unique perspectives on what the situation is concerning Tibet as well as possibilities of resolution. Facts have been coming at us about the destruction of the Tibetan culture, ecosystem and much more. While hearing these speakers offer their opinions, my mind has been filled with sadness as this situation has been going on for so long and really no ground has been covered. One interesting aspect of the discussion, however, is the comparison of the fight for an independent Tibet and the "Middle Way" approach that the Dalai Lama has proposed, which asks not for independence, but rather autonomy. This analysis focuses on possible solutions, which provides some optimism that the situation can be resolved. Because of my limited background in this material, I am still very much forming opinions and am eagerly awaiting the rest of our speakers, as many of them will touch on related topics.

We are all eagerly watching the election and hope that you all, back in the US, can provide us with information in the coming hours.

I hope you will stay tuned as members of our group post some reactions to being here in this community and examining the issue of Tibet.

Doug, Thank you for your updates... I hope you are well.

Many blessings,

Justin
Dharamsala, India November 4th, 2008

Election Night Extravaganza!

I made some calls for Obama today. Had some lovely chats with people in Pennsylvania. As of right now it still looks like Obama will win, but no states have reported in yet...so we're just sitting here anxiously awaiting some flipping results. The final polls to come out showed Obama's lead widening across the board.

Justin, my sister wants me to ask if you knew a girl named Catherine Spangler when you went to Deerfield, and Tracy, I'm doing very well, but I really miss you guys and at times I find myself wishing I was still in Dharamsala with all of you. However, I do love the embrace of my Tempur-Pedic mattress, so I'm split in my feelings.

Palin 2012!
-Doug B

November 5, 2008

We're getting a new president in like two hours oh my god.

Here in India, we have the fantastic opportunity of enduring a two-day long election! It started yesterday and it's still not over and it's really very hard on our nerves. Please get it over with soon? Yeah?

So, I haven't yet blogged about retreat...

It was fantastic. I loved the Buddhist philosophy classes, taught by a cheerful Australian Buddhist nun. I definitely think of Buddhism as a philosophy rather than a religion, so that made it much easier to learn and take in. It made me think about so much and it really changed my perspective on how I see myself, and my relation to other people and the world in general. I don't think I'll become Buddhist though... The more I found out about karma the more I disagreed with it. Same with enlightenment. I would HATE to be enlightened and suddenly have compassion for every sentient being and understand why they're angry or greedy or cruel. Think about, say, watching a movie or reading a book. Wouldn't it be boring to completely sympathize with the bad guy, or go, "Oh, it's just impermanence," when the good guy dies? It would be incredibly inconvenient.

I am mostly kidding. Buddhists, please don't be offended.

arifamily.jpg
So, now I'm with my homestay family, who I absolutely LOVE. The parents and sister all speak excellent conversational English, the grandmother is so sweet, and the three year old brother is a terror (eating out of the sugar bowl, launching himself from shelves, etc) but he's completely in love with me and had to be pried off my leg so I could go to bed. The mom is teaching me how to knit cool stuff, the sister is obsessed with Shakira, and the dad used to be in the Ladakhi military so I'm trying to get good stories from him. Food is great. I get legit pancakes every morning (pancakes are usually hit or miss in India). And apart from the five inch tarantula I found in the bathroom one night, it's been fun.

I have three ISPs- yoga, tibetan massage, and tabla. The yoga classes are fantastic!! Our yogi is this tiny brown man who stands on his hands as often as and with as much ease as on his feet. Massage classes are two hours every night so Tim (who's taking it with me) and I leave totally blissed out. It's great to have at the end of the day. I have not yet started tabla classes, because my teacher's been out of town, but my first lesson is today. I'll tell you about it later!

Go Obama!!!

OMG-lab

Hi everybody. Sandy here (posting from my actual own account for the very first time!! I had to look up the directions...)

We finished 10 days at Tushita, filled with meditation (I tried my best), and twice daily teachings on Buddhist philosophy-- it was great to get a solid foundation about the ideas and beliefs behind all the iconography we've been seeing at the monasteries. There's a lot to it.

I found myself getting frustrated only a little, and I realized just about detaily logistical stuff for the most part (like the intricacies and loopholes of throwing karma, for instance). But the core of it is all about kindness, and compassion, which is really just life-ism. One story the teacher told is about a monk who was imprisoned and tortured in China for a bunch of years (I forget how long), and when he escaped he met with the Dalai Lama upon his arrival. His Holiness asked the monk what he was most scared of during the whole experience, and he replied about his fear that he would lose compassion for his torturers.

That takes some pretty deep love. Right on.

And I figure, in regards to the bits and bobs I don't quite get, I likely don't understand enough yet. So I'm leaving the course with pleanty to think about and churn over in my head.

Plus, our meditation instructor, Richard, was SOO cute. As in, like a puppy dog absolutely adorable. He was from Holland, and so softspoken and easy going and peaceful seeming. .. but in a way that constantly made me crack up. good stuff.

sandymom.jpg
Sandy and homestay mom

As for the rest of life: we're here in Dharamsala now. I'm enjoying my homestay so far: they have students all the time, so they totally know what they're doing and are taking very good care of me. I keep seeing pictures all over the place of their other visitors, though, and tshirts and posters from exotic lands like Florida and Montreal. I feel like I have a lot to live up to.. but I think it's going lovely. =)

Continue reading "OMG-lab" »

Save Yourselves While You Still Can

It's official, I'm calling it now, at 10:52PM (GMT -5) Barack Obama has been elected President of the United States of America. I suggest to all of those still in America, board up your homes and stock up on food and ammunition. An army of crazed communist-terrorist-socialists will soon be ravaging this once wholesome land like the Mongols ravaged Asia so many centuries ago.

Continue reading "Save Yourselves While You Still Can" »

Greetings!

First and foremost, I would like to say that I am blogging under my own free will. Tracy is definitely not pressuring us to blog.

We need our blogging all-star back! But anyways...

A lot of stuff has actually been going on. Damn, that was a profound first sentence. But seriously, where to start? I think the last time I blogged was...well, that's not important.

I was reading the blog and I realized that no one had mentioned the amazing event that occurred when we visited His Holiness The 17th Gyalwa Karmapa. For those of you who don't know, the Karmapa is a very holy guy. He's the head of the largest sub-school of one of the four major branches of Tibetan Buddhism. He's kind of like the Dalai Llama, except that he keeps a much lower profile for a variety of reasons (sorry if that was wrong, Tracy--no flaming please!).

We visited him this past Saturday, but rewind to the day before that: the day we came out of our 10-day silence at Tushita. Upon breaking our silence, Wade delighted our group with three hilarious parodies of American songs with Buddhist lyrics (Dharma Girl (parody of Barbie Girl), Da'Buddha Nature (parody of Boys In The Hood by EazyE), and Buddha's Got It Goin' On (parody of Bret's Got It Goin' On from Flight of the Conchords).

Before leaving Tushita, me and Wade performed "Da'Buddha Nature" for Tushita, with Wade rapping and me kicking the beat box. We were very well received, and we should have audio and possibly video of that performance available sometime soon.

Fast forward back to our visit to the Karmapa. The Karmapa was a very, very cool guy. He's only 23, and he was humble, incredibly wise, and fun. After our initial reception and Q/A session with the Karmapa (which included lots of prostrations, bowing, and being awed), Tracy informed the Karmapa that me and Wade had prepared a rap offering (Da'Buddha Nature) that we would like to perform for the Karmapa. He agreed.

rapping.jpg

So we stood up (after receiving permission to stand higher than the Karmapa), and delivered our offering. The Karmapa loved it--he started dancing on his little couch (he's got some moves) and seemed very appreciate and receptive. I, personally, was so nervous that I couldn't even look in his direction. But, we delivered our offering with virtually no mistakes.

Continue reading "Greetings!" »

November 6, 2008

sikhs silence and dharamsala

This has been a wonderful and crazy couple of weeks. After a great couple of days in Delhi we went to Amritsar and stayed at the Golden Temple. It is the holiest site in the world for Sikhs, so people from all over make pilgrimages there. They offer free accommodations and food to anyone, and we took advantage of that. The food was great, especially this rice pudding like stuff called keer. They serve food all day long, people are constantly filing into their huge dining hall, and everyone sits together on the floor. No separation or questions of economic status, religion, country, just everyone eating together. Afterward, you had the option to give back by doing some service to help the temple run. Several of us helped to wash the dishes after every meal. I actually really enjoyed it. Again, no divisions or judgment, just people helping together. It became very peaceful. just listening to the music projecting from the temple - a drumbeat and chant - along with the incessant, rhythmic clatter of the metal dishes in the sinks. The women around me gave me shy smiles, pleased and amused that a Western woman was amongst them. I was wearing a salwar kameez one day, and the women next to me told me I looked like an Indian woman, which was amusing.

After Amritsar, we met up with our wonderful guide, a Tibetan man who goes by Peter, and drove to Dharamsala. I am writing you from Mcleod Ganj, Upper Dharamsala, where the Tibetan government in exile is located and the Dalai Lama lives. I walked passed his house today. We began our stay here with a 10 meditation retreat at this place called Tushita, which was wonderful and intense. 6 AM wake up everyday, with 3 45 minute meditation sessions, 3 hours of teaching on Buddhist philosophy, and apart from a 1 hour discussion group, silence. And the last 2 days were just meditation - 7 times a day for 45 minutes each - and total silence. Even writing this now I sort of wonder how I got through it, but at the time it felt strangely easy. Silence felt really necessary and natural after this first month of constant activity, and despite the pain it caused my back, I really enjoyed meditation. But this experience is really better described in person, so I think that's it on that...

Natalie_homestay.jpgWe have just started homestays in Dharamsala, and so far I love my family. My Tibetan amala is so kind and warm and welcoming, I felt instantly at home with them.

We had the surreal and rare and wonderful opportunity to sit for a private audience with his Holiness the 17th Karmapa, who is the head of the Kagyu school of Tibetan Buddhism. To give you an idea of the hugeness of this
opportunity- Tibetan Buddhism has 4 schools, the Dalai Lama is the head of the Gelugpa school (we sat retreat in this style) so the Karmapa is essentially equal to him in power and authority.

Continue reading "sikhs silence and dharamsala" »

November 9, 2008

Ladies and gentlemen…this is the moment you’ve all been waiting for.

Allow me to introduce America’s newest, most annoying, most overplayed, most overrated new boy band…THE BLAST BROTHERS!

Featuring Kevin Blast on key-tar and DJ Blast on guitar, this boy band is taking the teens and tweens by the thousands.

It all started when Kevin Wazinski met DJ Dufuap in America’s 2nd largest open-pit limestone quarry in Rogers City, Michigan. Although not brothers by blood, the two boys knew that they shared a bond stronger than any family—the bond of the boy band.

Continue reading "Ladies and gentlemen…this is the moment you’ve all been waiting for." »

We do not inherit the Earth from our ancestors, we borrow it from our children

Chukyi.jpg
Chukyi-la presenting to our group about environmental issues in Tibet. She works for the government in exile in Dharamsala.

Hey Y’all. Back from Tushita, which I’m sure you heard all about from previous posts so I will not bore anybody with further details. The only thing I will say, and that can be said at this point on my behalf, is that it was phenomenal… Haha. It’s as if I have remembered, and been reminded of, something I forgot, and forgot that I forgot. Who knew that what would make me happy in this world would be not trying to make myself happy? Crazy Buddhist logic that somehow works, who knew?

So, I am currently living in a Tibetan household with one mother, Nima, an 11 year old daughter Tseyang, a 5 year old boy Tenzin Gyurmet, and a Buddhist monk by the name of Kusho. They are incredible people, and there are not enough words in the English language to describe how appreciative I am of their kindness and hospitality. I am really growing connected to them on such a deep level…

Which brings me to my current state of mind; Dharamsala and Tibetan culture, religion, language, love, but most of all their suffering. Upon arriving in Dharamsala however many days, weeks, lifetimes ago that was, I felt a strong, strange connection. We went to visit the Tibetan museum (not sure of the proper name so bare with me) and walking around, reading and seeing all about the Chinese occupation of Tibet and what was being done, there grew a deep, hollowness in my heart. I found myself wandering around in awe and terror, on the verge of tears, and wanting to soak in as much as I could.

Continue reading "We do not inherit the Earth from our ancestors, we borrow it from our children" »

November 10, 2008

Dharamsala, India

I hope this email finds you all in good health and even better spirits,

The past week has been magnificent... I reflect daily with Shanti Baba, the man who owns the guest house Tracy and I are staying in, about how the weather here is just amazing. I can count the clouds I have seen in the past week on one hand it seems. The truly breath taking aspect, however, of being here is the fact that our program of ISPs, speakers, homestays and language study is equally amazing. It seems like every turn in the road or crest in the hill provides an equally wonderful opportunity as the one before. We have had the chance to explore the Tibetan freedom movement from numerous directions, ranging from radical independent freedom fighters who hold a "by any means necessary" attitude to equally dynamic youth activists, who have dedicated their entire life to the non-violent freedom movement even though they have never set foot in their "home" country. We have learned about the environmental diversity of Tibet and the threat it is under if the Chinese continue to exploit the natural resources of the "roof top of the world." All of these issues lead us to explore what they mean to us, how we can help and what we value.

The issue of 'home" has been especially big in my mind of late. Having spent a large amount of the last three years outside of my "home" country of the US, I have thought about this frequently, but being in a community of people who can not choose to go "home" makes this topic especially prevalent.

Continue reading "Dharamsala, India" »

Varanasi it is...

artivnasi.jpg
Nightly ceremony on the banks of the Ganges River, Varanasi

Hey everybody,

We, the Fall 2008 Brahma to Buddha Semester with Global LAB participants, after much (too much) debate, have decreed that we shall spend the final week of our trip (well, five days) in the holy city of Varanasi.

Other alternatives that were dismissed included a camel safari in Rajasthan and a 3-day boat ride down the Ganges with 2 days in Varanasi. Although some of us (cough) wanted to ride the boat, we ultimately decided that it would be best to spend all of our time in Varanasi.

On the student-led portion, Justin and Tracy will (supposedly) only be in the background, leaving most of the responsibility to us students. We've dished out certain responsibilities to each member of the group:

Ari will put up with Hotels and manage Communication with the States.
Wade and Natalie will tackle the mammoth that is Transportation.
Event Planning will be planned by Kate and Sandy.
Marisa will handle the dreaded Budget.
And that leaves me, Timothy Clayton, as the OVERLORD.

My job is to get angry at your kids if they don't do their jobs. This decision for the apparently lazy slacker from New Orleans (we are, after all, Team "Waiting for Tim") to take the most responsible position has caused a stir among some of the higher ups. I can talk the talk, but can I walk the walk?

Only future blog posts will tell the tale...

Tune in next time for the epic conclusion of this precarious situation....

-Tim

streetkids-- notes and meanderings of my first five days (NOTE: this is really long and sort of just a bunch of jottings and figurings and musings... feel *totes* mos' def. free to skim)

Hi everybody,
Sandy here. As promised, some chronicle of my experiments and experience in interviewing and interacting with street children in Dharamsala so far (though we have two more days of ISPs still to come):

I set out on this project with the intent of understanding the lives of the urban poor, and children growing up with little of the world at their fingertips, the city streets as their home. I've had some interaction with children born into rural poverty, and so wanted to expand my understanding of this population with whose path my own has intersected in places like Delhi and Amritsar, but aware of and existing on entirely different plains of the city.

In any case, I brainstormed a list of questions last weekend, to give backbone and structure to my encounters; curiosities about their home and life and background. But I've found that I've been as struck-- or more-- by simply watching how they interact with their environment, each other, and me: things they wouldn't be able to articulate to me, and that I couldn't formulate a question to capture.

I wrote my mom an email, and she replied that it makes sense: that I can get background from questions, but as much insight comes from things that can't be asked. Maria Montessori, she noted, learned what she did about children and their behavioral patterns by observing them, not inquiring: "what is your nature? how do you learn best?" Man, what a woman. In even the past few months, I've been perpetually astounded and reastounded by the depth and profundity and revolutionariness of her research and ideas.

So, let me give you some notes and observations: ;

(okay, this is really long. I've been editing it since Friday lunchtime. I'm putting it in the extended entry. I recommend reading it in installments before bed over a period of thirteen years. or lifetimes).

Continue reading "streetkids-- notes and meanderings of my first five days (NOTE: this is really long and sort of just a bunch of jottings and figurings and musings... feel *totes* mos' def. free to skim)" »

November 11, 2008

i made a coat

coat.jpgSo, I made a coat. I am very proud of myself. I believe there will be pictures to come, if they are not up already. This coat was made in my delightful Tibetan tailoring ISP. Its funny, coming here I didn't think tailoring would particularly interest me, and sort of took it because Tracy mentioned it. And when she did I was just like sure, OK, without really thinking about it. But I LOVE it. Two hours every night in a family's home. I walk in each night and they assault me with chai and pastries (the husband is a baker which is an added bonus), and make sure I eat and drink copious amounts before starting. And then we sew, or cut. The machine is manual, which was disconcerting at first, and you have to pump a pedal with your foot while making sure you sew perfectly straight (otherwise, my guru smiles kindly and then proceeds to tear it out). So far we have made 2 little bags, 2 "mobile phone cases," the aforementioned coat, and the beginning of a Tibetan shirt. The coat we made from a pattern but everything else she just knows, and makes me take notes on the pattern, which make me happy. But the most exciting part is that even in this short amount of time, I am already feeling more independent with sewing. She measured me for the shirt last night and took me step by step through the pattern, and I really think I could replicate it and transpose what I have learned onto other things I want to make, in the future. (Margot I think I owe you an item of clothing and now it can actually be good).

Continue reading "i made a coat" »

November 13, 2008

Meh abhi duk hi ho rahi hoon keonkee meh Dharamsala chorkee rahi hoon!

I am feeling sad because I am leaving Dharamsala. (I think I wrote it correctly?)

We have Hindi class most every day, and we're actually getting pretty good! We learned the past and future tenses today, so now I can almost piece together original sentences, which is awesome. I'm very excited to continue Hindi in Jaipur! In the mornings, before Hindi, I wake up and have a delicious breakfast with Amey la (mom in Tibetan)- gaga, her hard boiled eggs rival even yours - and sometime peter comes. Then after Hindi, Ari, Mirise and I take a rickshaw to Bagsu for jewelry making and tabla. We spend a few hours with our guru and eat a little lunch, and then rush back to Dharamsala for yoga. Our teacher is one of the best yoga teachers that I've ever had and is freakishly strong (but it's so cool). Then, after yoga, we have a guest speaker. We've had a bunch of incredible people speak with us- yesterday, it was two representatives from Students for a Free Tibet.

sewing_isp_kate.jpg After our speaker, I have sewing with my amey la. It's so much fun! It's on a manual machine, so it requires a lot of concentration but I'm loving it. I have made a purse, a little bag, a couple of pouches and a Tibetan coat. Last night, I made a pouch without any help! The craftsmanship is not great, but I'm proud of it anyway- it's my favorite thing that I've made :) After sewing, I have another delicious meal and usually watch CNN. Whenever they talk about the election, or the president elect (!), my amey la says "Obama Obama!" She is so sweet, and I'll miss her a lot when we leave- I'm trying to convince her to come do Jaipur homestays with me, but it's not working too well ;) Mom, she wanted me to tell my "American Amey la that my Tibetan Amey la is taking very good care of me"

I have to run to yoga, but I'll write more soon. We start our Jaipur homestays in a few days!
Kate

Food and Travel

3027026324_076feb59ab.jpg

Greetings friends!!

So, we are about to depart from Dharamsala, headed south for new adventures. We have thoroughly enjoyed our time here in Dharamsala. Tonight was an especially emotional time, as we gathered together for tea and said goodbye to our homestay families. The students have grown very close to their families during our short time together, I believe. Tomorrow, early in the AM, we will head to Delhi for a quick stop and then onto Agra to see the Taj Mahal and eventually Jaipur.

During our time in Dharamsala, we have encountered some wonderful people, one of whom is my childhood friend, Avi Kramer. He met the group here and spent three weeks researching some local delicacies. He is on site doing research for a cook book memoir that he is writing with the Harvard Common Press. One of the aspects of his adventure is an active blog. He visited with one of our home-stay fathers who is a baker in town as well as the owner of the Ladies Venture Guest House, which acts as our central hub during our time here. Feel free to visit Avi's blog here, see his reflections about Dharamsala and follow him on his journey. He offers recipes from his travels, which might provide a wonderful opportunity to cook and taste some of the local food that we are experiencing.

That is all for now. Stay tuned for more updates soon.

Many blessings,

Justin
Dharamsala, India November 13th, 2008

I Had My First Post-India Moment

First off let me just define the post-India moment as something that would not have happened if I had not gone on a magical journey to Hindustan. Justin maybe this is what you meant by "India Eyes." So last night I was watching The Last of the Mohicans, which is a fantastic movie by the way, and if you are familiar with it you are no doubt familiar with the film's fantastic musical score. Well, Daniel Day Lewis and company are trekking through the pristine forests of 1757 upstate New York when they begin to cross a river, hopping across and over rocks (remind anyone of Ladakh!), all the while the main theme is building in the background. Finally it reaches its thunderously beautiful climax at which point I began to weep tears of joy.

Continue reading "I Had My First Post-India Moment" »

November 14, 2008

Now in Delhi

Tracy sent a message letting us know the group has safely arrived in Delhi and will head out early tomorrow morning for their train ride south to Agra and the Taj Mahal.

John


Leaving the Mountains

While the group makes its way to Jaipur via a stop in Agra, we've put together a short video of images from their two months in the mountains of the Himalaya. Enjoy:

Continue reading "Leaving the Mountains" »

November 17, 2008

In Jaipur

Tracy sent a message letting us know the students are settling in with their new homestay families in Jaipur, after a warm welcome by the local community. Updates from Rajasthan to come soon.

John

November 19, 2008

Taj and Tarot - Ari Reflects and Looks Forward

Ari_drums.jpg
Ari practicing her Tabla skills

For the past year, the thought of the Taj Mahal has been the carrot dangling in front of my nose. College apps, SAT II’s or whatever stress that came my way, I dealt with by telling myself, “It’s cool, in several months I’ll be standing in front of the Taj, so there.” And then suddenly, I was. It was huge! It was beautiful! It was totally real! I would know, I touched it. Wow. It was strange to finally see the real life view of a sight I’ve seen in pictures and movies for years. In a way, it didn’t even seem real, because it’s such an icon.

taj.jpg
At the Taj Mahal

So, the Taj Mahal was definitely breathtaking and awe-inspiring, but what I hadn’t expected to excite me at all was the Agra Fort.

chambers.jpg
Exploring secret chambers at the Agra Fort

I didn’t even know what it was, really, or rather, I hadn’t made the connection that this was the fort I had been reading about in books about India (City of Djinns by William Dalrymple is FANTASTIC.) But when I saw the fort’s red sandstone stretching up and away in either direction, (this sounds cheesy but) history came alive for me. I could picture Aurangzeb, the evil son of the old emperor, riding up the stone ramp on an elephant, or Princess Jahanara being totally spoiled in her ornately carved marble pavilions. It’s surprising how the fort’s architecture turns cold white marble into cozy libraries or airy palaces. I’ve decided that if I was a princess, the Agra Fort would definitely be my palace of choice.

With our token tourism out of the way, we have one more month left of our trip—pretty hard to believe. One month still seems like a lot, but it’s going to go by so fast. Before I left Dharamsala, I went to an astrologer and had my tarot cards read. I’ve always kind of believed in divination, but the incredibly accurate reading she gave me made my faith skyrocket. I’m not going to repeat it all because it won’t make sense if you don’t know me, but at the end of the reading, the astrologer leaned forward and told me with a sense of urgency, “This trip you’re on, you need this experience. You have to try everything and discover new paths because this exploration will help you find stability. Really appreciate the time you have left here.” And it’s what everyone’s been saying and what I’ve been listening to the entire time, but hearing it from a perfect stranger (and my own tarot cards) gave me a shock and renewed my dedication to this trip- opening myself up time after time and absorbing more than I think I can handle.

She also said that I have an intrinsic urge to seek out new things and understand them. She told me, “This search is your life, you will always be involved in The Search.” I took it as a blessing for all the future travels I intend to make—good luck indeed. So with this prophecy, here I go on the last big part of the trip!

"India"

We started in Domkhar with simple families in simple houses with simple lives. Grow the food, harvest the food, eat the food, store the rest for Winter. Dirt squat toilets, electricity between 6 PM and 11 PM. No running water, but why would you need it? There's a stream right outside the front door. Go collect water in a bucket, heat it on the stove, dump it back in the bucket, pour it over your head, lather, rinse, repeat. Actually, don't repeat, shampoo once. That's it and that's all you need. In fact, life there has all you need to survive, and to survive peacefully and compassionately.

We continued to Dharamsala. Plaster squat toilet flushed by hand with water in a bucket. Slept in the dining/family room so comfortably. Woken up every morning by a bright, shining young Tibetan girl's face intently staring at mine. Hot showers maybe 1 1/2 times out of the 4 showers I took during my stay, sometimes curled up on the floor beneath a slow trickle of luke warm or ice cold water, depending on the weather, I suppose... Not once did I mind water being shut off just for fun, or whatever the reason was, how could I? There was running water, what a luxury! And I slept next to a giant window overlooking Dharamsala and was greeted by a fuschia and orange sun rise every morning. The food was beyond fantastic, my family was real.

I now find myself sitting on a large, cozy, comfortable bed in a large room all to my own with a study, tea area, large tiled floor, fan whirling above my head, window the size of my bed burst open allowing city sounds to flood in, a closet/dressing area leading to a bathroom including a Western toilet, running water, and a hot shower whenever I want one. All of this to my own. All this in a large house with 3 different families, 14 people all together, 4 different generations, sari adorned, in the middle of the Pink city littered with Pink flowers blanketed by a Pink sky.
Jaipur.

And I get it.
There is no "India".
There is no stereotype to use, no label to give. This place is multi-dimensional with extremes as far and deep as the universe is infinite.

I do not even have these luxuries at my own home in New York, and never have, and have never dreamed of or expected such things. And to go from life in Domkhar harvesting "cow's grass" side-by-side with a family who just months before planted all of the crops, to having 4 servants cooking my meals, cleaning my room, serving me tea in bed after a long day full of ISPS....

Neither is better than the other. Neither is right or wrong.
There is no concrete definition to anything, is there.
It is all relative, isn't it?
There is no "Indian" person, "Indian" place, Indian anything in the way I labeled "India" to be... Or in the way that I was.

Agricultural Buddhists of Ladakh.
Tibetan Refugees of Dharamsala.
Aristocratic Rajhastanis of Jaipur.
All in one land mass labeled as "India".
Just another walk of life on this floating ball we are all co-existing on, circling itself around the sun somewhere within this infinite abyss of space and energy we call "universe".
No concrete, absolute, definition to any of it.
It is all fluid, isn't it.
It's layered.
It is not concise or concrete...

Just like "I", isn't it..
Welcome to the universe, Mirise. It is infinite, and you are infinitely floating in it, infinitely trying to figure it out within a sea of infinite truths.

The sounds of Jaipur float in through the window towards me. There is an infinite array of sounds that are "Jaipur". I cannot hold one sound and say "This is it, this does it, this is the sound of Jaipur", just as I cannot cut off my finger and hold it in my hand and say "This does it, this is finger" because without the hand arm shoulder body mind to work all together, the finger does not work.
Is it not entirely dependent upon everything else.
Is it also not entirely relative.
Welcome to India, it is empty of being "India".
And how absolutely incredible that is.

I feel nothing but gratitude, for Domkhar and Dharamsala and Jaipur and Justin and Tracy and Global LAB. Grateful for my friends, those back home and all the wonderful, special new ones I have made over here.
And the most intense gratitude for my family. I love you all so much.

ps- just a side note.... after all that has happened here, I find myself at my final ISP, which, unbenounced to me when I signed up for it, is strangely, familiarly reminiscent of my Clayton James Cubitt, FIT, Manhattan/Brooklyn days...
Isn't that fascinating.

November 22, 2008

I'm Alive...

Just trapped in hospital. But, really I'm being superbly cared for by the hospital and family. I'll hopefully be able to go home soon. They finally identified what I have, it's called para-typhus and is of the same family as salmonella typhus, both cause typhoid fever. Just wanted to let you guys know what is up.

The Frequency is Courage
-Doug B.

November 25, 2008

Fatehpur Sikri and Bharatpur

stairs.jpg
From our visit to Fatehpur Sikri, the former location of the Mughal Empire's headquarters, probably abandoned because of poor water supply.

3048649264_c364a97420.jpg


Keoladeo.jpg
We also took a bike tour of Keoladeo Bird Sanctuary in Bharatpur. Birds are back, thanks to increasing water following years of drought.

Hospital Food Sucks

Hi guys I'm back home after nearly a week in the hospital. I'm feeling tremendously better, but I'm more or less on lock down in my house for the next week. I'm no longer on an IV, but I have to take 1000mg of zithromax a day. The doctors have said It will take about a month to make a full recovery, so until then I am to take it slow. I hope you guys are having a good time in Jaipur.

Thundercats! Ho!
-Doug B.

November 26, 2008

So, What's been Happening you ask?

Namaste Loyal Blog Readers!

We've been quiet because we've been BUSY! Our time here in Jaipur, Rajasthan has been packed full of projects, guest speakers, field trips, homestay family interactions, and snacks from Shivani every single day.

We've been exploring and working through our understanding of 'development' through lectures with Sanjeev about Green Design and visits to a card-making and paper-making plant where the materials are all made by shredding scraps of old cotton t-shirts and made into pulp. Fascinating. Sanjeev also showed us a video that you should all check out - The Story of Stuff. We're just learning how design affects the way that we make choices to live in this world.

And learning the process of critical thinking/questioning with Ayoshiji who, after a riveting session deconstructing our understanding of "Traditional crafts" by asking questions like "What is the difference between a craft and a fine art?" and "Are the craftsworkers truly receiving fair wages for their skill?" As the craft sector is the second largest employer (agriculture is the first) in India, how are these workers treated? Who is selling the crafts, and for what prices? Who really benefits in these situations? Ayoshji took us to meet metalworkers who have been passing their tradition down through their family for generations and have crafted the spires on many temples around the world.

Rudi.jpg
Rudi explains the Bhakti, or devotion, movement to us at Akshardham temple in Jaipur

Today we sat with Rudi Jansma, local Dutch scholar who has made Jaipur his home while extensively researching and publishing on traditions of Indian religions. He's talking to us about Hinduism today and we'll visit the Govind Dev-ji temple in the Pink City proper of Jaipur this evening for weekly puja. Rudi's knowledge is helping us connect the dots of mysticism in these different traditions and, of course, begs questions from us about the life, the universe, and everything.

Our hindi teacher, Bhavanaji, is rocking our worlds with class as well! These new skills will be great for the upcoming student-led portion where Justin, Peter, and I will hand over the reigns and kick up our feet to drink lots of chai on the train to Banaras.

I'm hoping all is well on the day before Thanksgiving - We're planning to head out of town to a place where we can feast on traditional Rajasthani foods (and SWEETS! though, nothing beats pumpkin pie) while wearing turbans, watching magic shows, puppet shows, and learn more about traditional tribal culture here in Rajasthan. And of course, taking good time to be grateful for all the opportunities we had in our lives to bring us to this point. How lucky we are to be spending this Thanksgiving with each other in India.

Our best to you all... take care of each other!

Tracy

Wait, we're in India? I thought it was Palm Beach

katebamboo.jpgJaipur is not what I'd expected, to say the least. A few days ago, we went to the old city to see metal workers, and that was what I'd thought our Jaipur experience would be like: narrow roads, crammed houses, load noises and a sensory overload. But, as Mirise said to me when we were talking about this, that would have defeated the purpose. We are already comfortable with more simplistic living. Instead, we're staying with very...modern families. I live in a nice house with only a mom, dad, brother and sister, so there's plenty of space to go around. Shivani, our local coordinator and my yoga teacher lives in a house that's even funkier than (and easily as big as) Ellen's house, for all of the people at home. She and her husband are graphic designers (amongst other things) and have journals for sale and Barnes and Noble. Our lecturer on traditional Indian crafts is also a big time designer and just did the interior for a Spanish Tapas rester aunt opening soon in Chicago. Rick Bayless (my friend's father and the owner of Frontara Grill, a rester aunt at home) was quoted in "The Times of India," in an article about Chicago's current state of joy. Upper-middle class Jaipur seems hard to separate from American culture, especially when it comes to my homestay sister.

Continue reading "Wait, we're in India? I thought it was Palm Beach" »

We're Safe...

Just a quick post to let everyone know that the whole group is safe, and far away from Mumbai. My heart goes out to all of those experiencing suffering in that community, including those who felt the need to bomb and burn and hold others hostage.

Tracy

November 27, 2008

Finding a place in Jaipur

arigator.jpgJaipur is definitely not Dharamsala or Ladakh. The city is fast-paced and loud; it takes five minutes to plan and execute a safe passage across a road (even with a pedestrian crossing clearly marked) and because it is wedding season, you can often hear the melodic strains of one or more brass bands wafting through your bedroom window from the neighbor's front yard, always right as you are drifting off to sleep.

On a more positive note, my ISPs here are fantastic. I'm taking extra Hindi classes, taught by the brilliant and only pretend-scary Bhavnaji, who lovingly kicks my butt every morning for two hours but gets me reading and writing and speaking in Hindi. I don't even know how I can convey to you readers how wonderful she is. She puts you on the spot and only speaks in Hindi and is one of the strictest teachers I've ever had, but she laughs with you when you make a mistake and makes it clear that she actually does like us.

I'm also taking kathak classes with Wade. Kathak is a Northern Indian dance style, a passionate and graceful form of storytelling which involves fast footwork and theatrical expressions. I was so afraid that the dance would be utterly foreign to me, but I soon found out that there are surprising similarities to ballet and flamenco, so I've been able to catch on quickly. And in our kathak classes, it's not just our teacher that's amazing- it's her entire family. Preeti is our dance teacher. She's tiny and energetic and never gets annoyed when Wade and I get silly and distracted. Her parents treat us like their grandchildren- they attend our dance classes and shower praise on us from the sidelines.

Continue reading "Finding a place in Jaipur" »

Hmm

timportrait.jpgWhat up fools?

So yeah, we're in Jaipur, which is a radically different side of India than what we've seen so far. India is a country of many faces...

Jaipur is the cleanest and most sophisticated city we've been to. It still has Indian traffic, pollution, etc. but by Indian standards it's pretty nice. And there are definitely some affluent areas of Jaipur, including the area we're staying in. There are lots of very big, very beautiful houses.

My family is awesome. I have two adorable little sisters, a mommy, a grandfather and grandma, and two very sweet servants. The family life is quite a contrast from our previous homestays. We get waited on! The servants cook and bring us most of the food, which is crazy delicious.

We had my elder sister's birthday party this Sunday (Sweet 16 omg!!!). We blew up lots of balloons, cashed up on the junk food, and had a good time. The only thing that wasn't American was their version of Happy Birthday, which sounds quite off to me. There was also this ritual where after the mom cut the cake, she would take pieces of cake and feed the men in the family, from eldest to youngest. I got some cake, which Tracy told me means I'm important!

Continue reading "Hmm" »

Unwanted Obligation Fulfilled

wademagic.jpg
Magic show

This feels strange. I can't say that I've been inspired to utilize this blogging device. In fact, I'd rather not have to worry about communicating my experience via the internet. Alas, the blog concept is built into the G-LAB 'curriculum', as Tracy pointed out with a commanding tone some ten minutes ago, and I suppose now is a swell time to acknowledge my obligation to use it. I hope the audience welcomes me as I walk through The Kingdom of Blog's grand entrance way with a gloomy look upon my www.face. Please forgive me.

WadeISP.jpg
Wade giving one of his Independent Study Project presentations. He looked into the tradition of Bon, which existed in Tibet prior to Buddhism arriving in the 8th century BC.

This is the India I was searching for. I can say with absolute confidence that Jaipur has provided the most significant experience for me throughout the entire trip. I can't quite put my finger on the X factor that gives this city a more powerful personality than that of my other destinations- my brain simply seems more receptive to the information presented here. That's not to say that the other locations were less important or scarce in cultural exploration resources- I would say that both of our schedule snatching spots- Dharamsala and Ladakh- were brilliant mini-journeys in their own separate ways- but, as I'm sure most of you blog regulars already know, the energies of those places differ tremendously from the vibe that flows through the city of Jaipur.

Continue reading "Unwanted Obligation Fulfilled" »

Epic conclusion [or really, to-be-continuedity] of street children ISP:

(I started writing this in Baratpur, so excuse the fact that it’s way uber latesies).

We just left the mountains.
We had the days off on Monday and Tuesday. Wednesday we went back down to Dharamsala, but the lot we’d been going to was empty and everybody had moved. And then Thursday was our last day here. We couldn’t get in touch with the shelter home for streetchildren that we were hoping to go see, so I ended up walking around McLeod Ganj after Hindi class, shopping for Christmas presents, stopping in to say goodbye to some of the shopkeepers I knew, and all in general tying up loose ends.

So… Suraj.

I hadn’t seen him in a couple of days. But I wanted to get him something, for putting up with me this week. I felt like I’d been using him—sitting down to interview him the first day, but brushing him off when I couldn’t talk for the next few. For being too busy, and for having come into this interaction with my own goals and decisions about what I would take out of it, what I would learn, which I figure is sort of unfair and one sided. He has his goals and wants and needs. I figure, I aught honor his definition of a ‘successful interaction’, too.

Continue reading "Epic conclusion [or really, to-be-continuedity] of street children ISP:" »

November 29, 2008

(insert clever and intelligent title here)

mirisejewelry.jpg
A few of Mirise's creations

I watched the pink clouds slowly fade as the sun set in the west on my ride home from Jewelry Design 'class'. I say 'class' because it is actually me sitting on a couch on a rooftop terrace overlooking the city of Jaipur and the mountains behind it, listening to music and sketching designs for 3 hours.

The wisps of pink hanging in the sky matched the patchwork quilt of pink, white, and purple flowers lining the streets. These flowers, which turned into fluorescent blurs as my rickshaw driver picked up speed, were further complimented by the walls of pink buildings I was immersed within. (The word pink here is a rough translation for their actual color, salmon.)

I sat on the rooftop terrace today, drinking chai, listening to music, and sketching. My Guru, Sujata, has been out for the past 3 days dealing with matters of her jewelry business, and so I have been on many adventures throughout the Pink City. She has sent me to a jewelry manufacturer, a place where the actual pieces of jewelry are made, where metal is molded, stones are fitted, etc etc. These men were creating some of the most elaborate, detailed jewelry I had ever seen, all with their hands. I also went to The Gemstone Guy, or the man who buys and sells the actual gems, cuts them carves them engraves them turns them into beads etc etc. I saw all of the different kinds of stones, how they were cut (by hand!!) to create that multi-dimensional shiny look a diamond has. Finally, I've been to Chawa Hali Market, the place where raw silver is bought and sold, where silver pieces are bought and sold, etc etc. It was totally fascinating to see how the small label guy sells his homemade jewelry to the big time labels, which are then sold for 10x their price just because they are under a "Designer Name" when really that "designer" did not even design that piece of jewelry... I met this one man who insisted upon telling me all about the corruption within the jewelry business, and how it is all interconnected with politics and what not.... I am not quite sure to make of what he told me, but whatever, it's not really important to me anyways.

After all of this, however, after seeing craftspeople creating incredibly detailed items by hand, I have an entirely new concept of the words "Made in India". This is written on soooo many things back home, and yet that thought, "Made in India" never really crossed my mind. The amount of people who go into the process of production, from designer to manufacturer(s), to business to consumer, it's crazy! I never thought about the level of care and skill that has gone into each individually hand crafted piece of jewelry. After seeing how it is all actually made, I have a deeper sense of appreciation and understanding for every hand made craft.

But this thought also hurts my heart. After seeing all of the wonderful individuals who skillfully and perfectly create treasure from materials that appear worthless (scraps of loose metal, raw uncut stones), and then knowing that the average consumer probably hasn't seen this process, and therefore may buy a piece of hand crafted jewelry, wear it once before a designer thinks of a new piece, and then throws out the previous to acquire the new, without even thinking twice about what has gone into it... I also can't help but think of all the environmental destruction that goes into the process of jewelry making; mining for stones, mountain top removal for metal, coral reef destruction for coral.... It hurts my heart to know all of these aspects of this craft and art form that I have come to understand and appreciate so much.

Sanjeevpress.jpg
Sanjeev explains how he designs using recycled materials

However, I am completely inspired by what Sanjeev and Shivani do. Sanjeev, Shivani's husband, is a graphic designer, and yet everything he designs and manufactures is done in an eco-friendly way, with his mind on the environment. He uses recycled paper from various materials, eco-friendly inks, produces hardly any paper waste, and all that is produced is thrown back into the paper pulp maker to create more paper... It's crazy. It's awesome. And inspires me to design with the same mentality.

Continue reading "(insert clever and intelligent title here)" »

December 1, 2008

Patience - A Parable

tjp.jpg
Tracy, Justin, and Peter enjoying life in Rajasthan

There was a brother and sister pair who came home from walking with a tree sprout that they wanted to plant and grow outside their house. They carefully planted it together and went for dinner.

Each day, they would talk with excitement to see the seedling take root – how big will it be, what fun they will have climbing the tree and swinging from it’s branches. The brother, at night would steal out into the yard to check on the seedling in his excitement. He would lift the small tree out of the soil to check to see if the roots were growing. Upon looking, he observed, “No roots yet!" and replant the seedling.

After half a month, during the talk of excitement about the mature tree, the sister said to the brother, “I bet the roots are growing well after this much time... let’s go check to see how the tree is setting!” The boy answered, “There’s no need, sister, I know there are no roots yet!”

Clearly, the roots didn't grow in the tree because the brother continued to check to see if the roots were growing, interrupting the little plant's growing process.

Today, Shivani's mother-in-law, Prem, told me this story as I shared with her about my own experience of impatience with myself. We both giggled when I realized that continuing to check to see if growth/healing has happened in oneself is actually inhibiting the process. She giggled wisely while my tone was a bit more self-judging, illustrating the point. I see this as a potent teaching for all of us as we're rushing to see results in this instant gratification culture of ours.

Sometimes it's best to be quiet - let the tea steep so the best flavor can come.

Hope you're all well,

Tracy

December 4, 2008

You Can't Clog a Compost Toilet

Credit for that title goes to my mother who remarked the aforementioned phrase following some plumbing drama at my sister's apartment. Any way, I just thought I'd talk to you guys and gals. Just so you know, they turned a giant Christmas tree into a light bulb in New York City tonight, using without a doubt enough energy to heat quite a few homes. In case you didn't know, Obama has thoroughly pissed me off by nominating Hillary Clinton for Secretary of State. I didn't drive two and a half hours to Richmond, VA to canvass so Obama could nominate half of the people from the Clinton administration. Politics here is still annoying beyond comprehension, despite all the feel good new political era bull$#!% which the media is spewing. Sorry, I got angry. I won't do it again, scout's honor.

Continue reading "You Can't Clog a Compost Toilet" »

Students Take the Reins

"On the train, well fed and ready for bed. We're settling into our leader roles nicely and are super excited for Varanasi! -Ari, aka the Manger Arranger"

As the Manger Arranger's just-in text message confirms, the student-run portion of the semester is off and running as the group's train rolls out of Jaipur, bound for Varanasi. The students have been responsible for planning all their travel logistics as well as academic and experiential education components for their journey to the most sacred of Hindu pilgrimage sites, located on the banks of the Ganges River in the state of Uttar Pradesh. Justin, Peter, and Tracy are along for the ride as resourceful passengers if the crew needs any advice.

varanasi.jpg

Varanasi (which is also known as Banares, Kashi, and many other names) is considered one of the oldest living cities in the world. After visiting the city, Mark Twain wrote, "Banares is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend, and looks twice as old as all of them put together."

Considered the center of the universe in Hindu cosmology, Varanasi's sacred geography will be explained in detail when the group tours the city's sacred circuit under the tutelage of Professor Rana-ji of Banaras Hindu University.

John


December 5, 2008

In which I fulfill my destiny

It's been a running joke for much of the trip that my name rhymes with "Sorry." Anything goes wrong, it's always, "Oh, sorry Ari.... WAIT! THAT RHYMES!" Then in Jaipur, my friends further proved their sharp-witted poeticism by changing Sorry Ari to Sari Ari. Kalamari and safaris were also mentioned.

So what else to do? I gave in and got myself a sari. Funnily enough, the only day where I didn't attract attention on the streets was when I was wrapped in five and a half meters of bright purple and silver fabric. I wore it for an entire day of sightseeing- the City Palace, Jantar Mantar, which is an 18th century observatory, and the Amber Palace, which had really treacherous stairs. It was loads of fun, but mentally exhausting, in the way that I knew I had everything tied and pinned in the right place, but there was always a lingering uncertainty of how stable the whole contraption was. Step on a fold, and the entire system could come crashing down. Luckily, I made it through the day without any mishaps. It probably takes practice, which I'm not sure I'll get, because now that we're out of Jaipur I don't have a homestay mom to dress me in the morning. It was fun while it lasted though.

We're in Varanasi now, with the Ganges right outside our door! We haven't had a chance to explore yet, as we only just stumbled off the train this morning (I'd forgotten how comfortable sleeper trains are.... not.) but keep posted for adventures, of which there shall be many! It's so cool to be in charge.

December 7, 2008

Pilgrimage

Greetings from Kashi,

I hope this update finds all of you in good health and even better spirits.

We have arrived in Kashi (a native name for the city of Varanasi, used by southern Indians) and have taken a couple of days to settle in. It is a city built on top of itself countless times and its winding alley ways, huge water buffalo and cows, and overall energetic feel make it quite an experience.

This period of travel, until the 11th of December, is known as the "student led" portion of our semester. Basically this means that the students have taken the realm as 'leaders" and are planning the programing for this period of time. They have arranged for travel, lodging, activities, meals and much more, as Tracy, Peter and myself have taken a back seat, only assisting when it is needed. They have done wonderfully and I am going to mention what has been the highlight for me thus far.

Last night, we began an exploration into the history, symbology and cosmology of what has been termed "Hinduism," and today we went on an ancient pilgrimage, the Panchokarsi Yatra, to put experience to the information we had received. This specific pilgrimage has many forms, ranging in the largest route which travels throughout india and lasts for a couple of months to a 6 day venture to 108 temples in Varanasi and finally to our abbreviated, car traveled one day exploration. Don't be fooled though, it was quite a day and I am fully ready for some sleep.

Rana_Ji.jpg
Professor Rana-ji explaining the intricacies of Varanasi's relationship to Hindu cosmology

Our Guru for this period was a man named Rana-ji. He was a professor at Banaras (another name for Varanasi) Hindu University for many, many years and is a leading scholar, internationally, for the topic we investigated. His knowledge seemed never ending, and as we explored temples throughout the day, he spoke of both the scholarly and folk traditions that have served to create the traditions that are followed today. Each temple provided a unique way of worship, or physical representation of a specific God then the last, and with each turn, Ranaji eloquently grabbed our attention and gave us immense knowledge about the sites we were visiting.

Varansi is an intense place, but I feel that the information received today and the activities that are planned for the coming days will allow us to get a wonderful look at an ancient city that could probably take lifetimes to see.

Look for more updates soon,

Justin
Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh, India December 7th, 2008

December 10, 2008

Subway, Eat Fresh!

Originally this was gonna be a comment on Justin's blogpost but it's a wee bit too long. Justin was dead on, 487,000 seconds is 5.6 days. It is essential that we have a reunion, and soon! I say we have it in D.C. as that is sort of midway between the deep South, Chicago, and New England. The fact that I wouldn't have to go anywhere certainly was not a factor in my decision. Certainly not. I've rediscovered the Disney Channel in my time since returning to the states. I am not afraid to say The Suite Life of Zack and Cody and The Suite Life on Deck are tremendously entertaining. I know it's not as sophisticated as The Wire but they are wholesomely, family-friendly television programs. I've really began to miss the sensation of sleeping outdoors, so I've started sleeping in a sleeping bag and propping open the windows in my room so as to harmonize with nature. That's it for now. If I don't talk to you guys before you leave, enjoy the flight! It's two hours longer than you remember. Oh, by the way, there is a Subway in the international terminal which has meat! Turkey, bacon, ham, tuna. Everything which might offend Indian culture. Peace.

The Frequency is Courage (You're going to need it on that flight)
-Doug B.

December 11, 2008

Not Dead Yet

I've survived another long overnight train! It's kind of funny how it's taken three trains to make me understand that I need to actually prepare for a trainride. Good preparation would include socks, a sweater, something pillowy, lots and lots of snacks, and easily accesible toilet paper. Excellent preparation would include whipping out a sleeping bag, like Tracy does. Anyways, we're in Delhi now, which means that I no longer have any sort of buffer between me and thoughts on going home. I have no clue what it's going to be like. Will I love it? Hate it? Remain motivated or slack off? How will people react to me? And is my luggage overweight? I hope to have good answers for all of these questions soon.

I'm really glad we went to Varanasi for our student-led. At first, the city seemed unreachable for me- rickshaw prices were even more ridiculous than in Jaipur, people were blatantly trying to cheat us, tourists were everywhere, the sun was perpetually hidden in smog... And then, slowly, the city ended up coming to me. I found friendly people, like this street kid who sort of adopted us and showed us around the old city, where we surely would've gotten lost on our own. I saw how holy the city was when we went for a boatride on the Ganges before sunrise and floated through dark blue mist past the waking ghats. I discovered the sequel to First Cup, our favorite cafe in Dharamsala, at this overpriced but really good boutique cafe here. I traded my lovably tacky Taj Mahal snowglobe-keychain for a tiny, hand-carved Ganesha. The city was pretty cool, actually.

So, four more days in India, but the trip doesn't stop there. This isn't the last you've heard of me!!

chai-EYYYYYYYY

Hey everybody...

So, we're back in Delhi for the final segment of our journey. We took an overnight train from Varanasi, leaving last night and arriving this morning. Our arrival in Delhi marked the end of the student-led portion, which resulted in all of us students promptly dismissing our former responsibilties and jobs. Tracy was bombarded with playful cries of "My head hurts...Where are we?...I have diarrhea...I'm hungry....I have general insecurities..."

This train was our third overnight train, and I've found that I've grown to like them. One of the best parts of the train is the incessant cries of "chai-EY" by chai salesmen who make regular rounds on the train. They nasalize the end of "chai" to make it louder, which also makes it hilarious and highly imitatable. One grows to appreciate each salesman's rhythm (or lack there of) and style. Some mix in a "garam" (hot in Hindi)--"chai-EY garam chai-EY" or other assorted phrases that are above my Hindi knowledge. My favorite, however, will always be the simple "chai-EY!"

There are other salesmen too ("Cof-fee...cof-fee cof-fee.....toe-mah-tur souuuuuup......bread egg omlette cutlet...."), but the chai salesmen are still my favorite.

These train rides also include some very interesting conversations, some surreal attempts at sleep, and LOTS of junk food. Good stuff.

I'm very happy to be back in Delhi. Delhi feels like the closest thing I have to a home in India. We're back at Kameshka Palace (spelling?), which is where we've stayed most times in Delhi. I love this area of the city.

It's funny to feel how comfortable I was just walking down the street to this cyber cafe. I know what to expect now, which is extremely comforting in a city that seemed so foreign when we arrived here three months ago. I know how to shoo rickshaws, I know how to deal with "salesmen" and beggars.

And I know how to cross the street. It was so funny thinking of my attempts to cross the street when we first arrived. Traffic was coming from the wrong direction...no stoplights...no pedestrian crossings....it was difficult. But then on the way here I crossed the street with at least some confidence. I extended my hand at one point to stop an SUV that was going too fast around a corner, because he should stop for me because I'm a pedestrian. He honked and didn't like that, but I crossed the street and the world continued.

I've learned in India that you have to assert yourself in so many situations. For example--if you're waiting in line for something, Indian people will continuously cut in front of you unless you physically assert yourself. It's initally frustrating, but then you realize it's just the way this country works. And I have to advocate for myself in many other situations--from telling Tracy if I'm sick to telling angry rickshaw drivers to get out of my face.

I think it's not a skill that necessarily comes naturally to me, but this experience is certainly helping. I'm still not where I want to be and I'm still a sub-par bargainer, but I'm getting better every day. I hope to take as much as I've learned here back to the States in threeish days.

I hope all is well in the US. I certainly miss my own family, and I look forward to meeting some of the other families at the airport. We'll be back before you (and we) know it.

-Tim

dun dun dun

Well, we're back in Delhi. The final part of our trip. Mirise and I are rooming together and spent the better part of the afternoon sleeping and watching "Forever Mine," which is possibly one of the strangest (and worst) movies that I've ever seen- but not so bad that it becomes good. We all relaxed for the afternoon because of lack of sleep on the train, on which I luckily got a good 5 or 6 hours. I was in a compartment with Justin and Wade and we had a really cute baby next to us. The train was a few hours late, so this morning we played a good 2 hours worth of 20 questions. Namgeil Cafe, Siberia, Howie, water buffaloes and "Love" were all subjects of our game.
I can't believe that we're leaving India in three days. That's all I have to say for now.
Love you all (people at home and in india)

Here we are, and There we go

Hello.
We're in Delhi.
Cool.
Love,
Mirise and Wade


But in all seriousness...
Here we are, back in Delhi for the final time. It is a very, very strange feeling, knowing we are going to be leaving this place so soon, and returning home. I am not quite sure how I feel about that, and I guess I'll realize when I get home, or maybe I won't, but that's ok.
I do know that I already miss India, and my majorly extended family that has been created, with members extending through Ladakh and Dharamsala, to Jaipur Delhi Varanasi, and all across the United States.
I already miss everything, but treasure it so dearly.
I have a hunch I always will.
Love Always,
Mirise

PS- Mom, Dad, Kira and Avery, I love you. I hope you will be at the airport :) minus Avery

December 13, 2008

Where is "real life" and how am I supposed to get there anyways?

Today's our last full day in India, my god. The flight's tomorrow night, so we're spending our last hours assessing how to pack three months of stuff into at most two pieces of luggage under 70 lbs and 80 inches.

I thought I'd salute my next big transition by paralleling my first post of the trip, just to see where I've been and how I've changed.

Things I am bringing with me:
An extra duffel to hold all my new stuff. A veritable library of the books I've accumulated (I hear I have a problem) as well as the two and a half journals I've filled. A lot of Himalaya products (the Indian beauty/healthcare line) and a hoard of Hide and Seek biscuits (self-proclaimed to be the "world's best moulded chocolate chip cookie"). I've got a 70L backpack's worth of dirty laundry, which I won't have to do by hand anymore, and an umbrella which I never used, because it's rained maybe three times on the trip. I've also got many, many promises to myself to follow through on my experience here. These would include resolutions like being motivated enough to take my curiosity and do something with it, find out what I don't know. Being more understanding of what I only perceive as shortcomings in other people. Being engaged in the community- both locally and globally. Using my time each day more effectively. Being a reliable strength for both myself and others. Because I'm bringing with me a new kind of independence and confidence that I've actively worked on and built up here- what are daily obstacles and problems to me when I survived the Himalayas? Took a vow of silence for 10 days? Connected with three homestay families in a row? More important than anything in my luggage is my new skills to think critically, solve problems under pressure, and communicate.

And what I'm leaving behind:
Rickshaw drivers!!! And anarchistic traffic laws. Jelabis (the best streetfood EVER). Three cities I kind of know how to get around. My old self, whatever that means, as I'm not entirely sure who my new self is yet. A culture that doesn't overwhelm me anymore. People who are no longer strangers. In truth, I don't feel like I'm leaving much behind, because I took what I needed from each person or place I encountered.

I feel like I need a third category- what I'm looking forward to. I'm looking forward to seeing my family and friends. I'm looking forward to eating familiar foods as well as trying a bunch of new foods I would never have dared to before (like kalamari! Yes, just because it rhymes with my name.) I'm looking forward to my own bed, and winter, and hot chocolate. I'm looking forward to seeing Sandy, Mirise, Kate, Wade, Tim, Natalie, Doug, Tracy, Justin, Jake and Sam again. I'm looking forward to experiencing home with new eyes, and most of all, being a new person in an old place. I bet I'll see many things I never did before.

I have absolutely no clue what's going to happen next.

Mommy, daddy and Isaac (maybe? or you'll be in school)- can't wait to see you at the airport!

Hi Everyone.

so, here we are. Back in Delhi.
I don't know where to start or what to say.
We've been having many thoughts and talks about our impending homecoming.
Around Thanksgiving especially, maybe, I was thinking a lot about home. Realizing this time of year-- that there is snow on the ground, and falling from the sky in the pretty light way where it's still new and beautiful and exciting. And hot chocolate and fireplaces and blankets to snuggle and read under (oooh I'm so looking forward to holing myself up and making very good friends with the library in the next two months..). And it's weird to be missing these seasons, to remove myself from the weather which has always been constant in its yearly cyclical change.
Missing my family, too. Looking forward to seeing everyone when I get home. I wrote in an email a few weeks ago, about how I can't wait to get home to Massachusetts, even though it's full of cold and slush and suck: it's My suck.

But then, just the other day, I just got this thought like, Man. I miss Ladakh. I miss Namgial and Dorjee. I miss trek. I miss Nyima-la in Dharamsala. And I haven't really noticed it as I've been going along, caught up in defining myself by my life and friends and world at home, but I've created the same fervor of memory and place and community here. And I can only anticipate looking back in one or two months and sighing, huh. I miss Varanasi.

Varanasi was great, speaking of. We saw a lot, but the pace was laid back and chill. We saw the ghats, and spent an afternoon in this twisty, windy alley way section of the old city known as the Gulleys, where we were led to a henna place. We sat for a while, some of us dyed ourselves orange, the son of the owners came into the living room and played us tabla for a little while, and it was all around just pretty cool, to expierience and explore the city, without specific intention or goal or itinerary to stick to, because that let our eyes be open to the little side-street opportunities that present themselves, the little tucked away nook and cranny worlds that we wouldn't have noticed or stopped to sit in if we were focused forward on the future and certain plans. It was really refreshing, to just sort of dive forth into the Gulleys, and see where the current washed us.

Continue reading "Hi Everyone." »

December 14, 2008

And That's Not All, Folks...

We're packing up and getting ready for our flight this evening, but even though our bags are packed and we're gearing up for the continuation of Wade's epic 34.5 hour birthday (Doug, is that how long Wade's birthday is going to be if it started at 12 am and will continue through un-calcuable time in limbo while we are flying over the north pole?) our hearts are happy and ready for the next transition ahead.

We're sharing our final meal of dal makhani, shahi paneer, navratan korma and of course (as no meal would be complete without it), naan. (I prefer the buttered type, but there has been a real committment to the garlic type as of late). Amit is hosting at his house today and our bags are waiting to be loaded up into the gypsy to cart us over to the airport early this evening.

What a journey it's been. We're looking forward to seeing smiling faces on the other side of the gate at the airport, for sure. While we found ourselves councilling in the middle of a Sai Baba parade earlier this afternoon, I reflected sincerely on all India has gifted us with this past 90 days and I'm feeling happy. Lessons abound, and most likely, lessons that we don't even know we learned yet. May we all reach safely to our homes and have happy reunions with family and friends, and may this journey stay with us as seeds to make this world a better place, step by step.

That's all I could ever hope for.

Keep watching the blog for recent photos, and communication from all of us, as I enter a land with a more reliable internet connection...

love,
Tracy

December 15, 2008

And then, there was one...

Hey everybody...

I apologize in advance for the doubtless typos and lack of coherency in this post. I've been back at my house for only a few hours after twoish days of no sleep. I'm trying to stay up until a reasonable time to go to sleep to beat the jet lag...very surreal.

But anyways, India...is over. And that's ok. I 'm usually the type who doesn't say much in goodbyes but then bawls as soon as I'm alone, but that didn't happen today (or tomorrow, yesterday, whatever day this is).

We left Sandy behind when we entered the airport. I teared up a little bit. I thought "Jeez, if I tear up for one person leaving imagine that times six." But I haven't been sobbing...at least not yet. After our crazy flight over the North Pole, Tracy, Marisa, and Justin left us. That was sad, but no tears. Then Wade had to go to the other terminal. Then Kate flew away. And then, Ari flew away too, and it was just me...by myself.

I was waiting for the tears to come, but they didn't. I was taken by an overwhelming sense of gratitude and closure about my experience. Then I felt just really glad to be alive. Walking around Newark Airport and really appreciating every little thing is an interesting experience...

And Newark Airport, by the way, has a Meditation Room (which I gladly used)! Woohoo!

I miss everybody, and I love you all to death, but I don't feel that sad. I know I'll see everyone again, and even if I don't, that's ok. We'll always have our memories.

But...yeah. I'm sitting at home, blogging...my dogs are here, I can eat beef, I can sleep whenever I want. So surreal, still.

t's interesting...usually I would jump right back into my computer or my cell phone, but I just don't feel the urge this time. I don't want to plug back in. I just want to hang out with my parents and maybe my friends tomorrow and exchange stories, and think about what has been. I need to make sure I never go back to the way I was before, and that I extract every bit of benefit that I can from this awesome experience.

I'm so grateful to all the students, to Justin and Tracy and Peter, to John and Michelle, and to all the other people that made our trip possible. Thank you all so much.

I'm passing out in this computer chair, so i think I'll take that as my cue to stop. I hope everyone is home safe and re-adjusting as much as they can. Need sleep.

-Tim

December 16, 2008

...Aur bhi ek thah

Hello all my sweethearts,
I'm here safe and sound in Hyderabad. I got in at about midnight this morning, and spent the day with my dad (who basically "hugged me in half" when he got me at the airport), and his friend my 'Auntie Hema,' at who's house we're staying and who just fed me the most delicious chiku ice cream.

The last day and a half have been an odd sort of Limbo. I spent basically the whole day yesterday in my hotel. I showered, had some curd, and then basically spent the afternoon journaling and trying to figure out what in Shiva's name just happened.

I used up a good dozen or two pages processing and attempting to comprehend and add it all up. I'm still not really much closer to figuring it out. But it's strange:

I feel like when you've been standing underneath a waterfall. For long enough that you forget you are. And then suddenly you step out of it. It's basically like this:
WHOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOSHHHHH


and then nothing.
And I feel my skin pulled and pushed in different directions, from the mere absence of the pushes and pulls and the pressure and the force and the current I've assumed as normal and forgotten to notice. Like how you stare at a stoplight for 60 seconds, and then a white wall looks green, for the mere absence of red you've readjusted to see as neutral. Or when you hear silence, for the absence of white noise.

But get this (it's cosmic):: I finished my what-the-hell-just-happened journal entry on exactly the last page of the blue, recycled cotton paper journal I got and started in Dharamsala.
AND my last, one-and-only, most fantastical green BIC pen ran out of ink a mere number of hours before I left for the airport, so I wrote for the first time in pencil--
but then I got on the flight, and--first thing--the flight attendants handed out these little triangular boxes containing none other than a Kingfisher pen and Kingfisher earbud headphones.

AND it's perfect because one night in the middle of Jaipur the right bud of my iPod headphones randomly stopped working. I got used to it--it works fine except for when I'm listening to Such Great Heights, that was weird--but I was just thinking how I should get a new pair, or bring them with puppy dog eyes back to Geek Squad,
And Kingfisher totally delivered.
It was some sort of cosmic alignment.
I'm taking it as a sign of things to come.

Plus they served me dinner, even though it was 9:00, and it was actually excellent. Their "cheesecake" was more like whipped cream in a bowl, but the spoons they provided were really cool and funkily shaped and I quite enjoyed.

And then I listened to music. Through both ears. And watched the moon out of my window for a good two hours, with nothing but clean, un-smoggy air between the two of us. And to top it off there was no one else in the entire row.

Ari, Oxford Comma came on on shuffle.
And I HAVE climbed to Dharamsala.
And met with the highest Lama.
And I thought that was pretty ribbon-and-bow wonderful.

So, that's where I am. I'm missing all of you guys. And wondering where I'm going, and also still wondering how I wound up here in the first place--it's like I'm facing the shock of Global LAB being over, but I think I'm in some weird way also simultaneously facing the shock of it starting, which has forgotten to hit me and get processed over the whirlwind of the last three months.

Anyway, in the meantime
you're all in my heart
Love,
<3 sandy,
whoever and whatever that combination of letters adds up to

The end, but not really.

Jet lag! Continuing intestinal problems! Not knowing where all my stuff is anymore!

Despite that, being home is great. I'm in awe of how comfy my bed is and how I can stand under a hot shower for half an hour whenever I want.

I'm not really sure what's happening for me other than the tangible effects of reentry. I feel like my brain has shifted to a lower gear. This is partially because of massive amounts of jet lag, but also because I no longer have to analyze my surroundings from a newcomer's perspective. I never realized how hard my brain was working in India on an everyday level- avoiding rickshaws and cow poop on the road, dodging pushy storekeepers, remembering where I was going so I could get back to my hotel/homestay, and generally making sure I wasn't walking into any trouble. And then suddenly, all that was gone. It's unnerving how normal it is for me to be here.

I can't believe India just happened, that I went 7,700 miles away from home and stayed there for three months. I feel so incredibly lucky to have received a gift like that. I'm dedicated to making sure that trip continues for me because, like Tim mentioned in the post below this, I don't want to go back to being the person I was before this.

I really like how the semester wrapped up. It was definitely the right time to go home. And it's okay that I'm not with my friends anymore, because I appreciate the time we spent together and if it's possible, I'll see them again in the future sometime.

And I love being back with my family.

P.S. I'm listening to the Yuvvraaj soundtrack and it is fantastic!

December 17, 2008

I Should be Sleeping...

SO FAR,
surprisingly enough,
striving for proper or (In the jetlagged individual's case) necessary amounts of sleep has been the most difficult aspect of my return home.

Doug went home with typhoid.
I came home with insomnia.

The international flight is to blame... those continental folk were out to get me- I could sense it as soon as I stepped onto the aircraft. It's all their fault- the staff inserted a peculiar ingredient with a restless/sleepless side effect into my flight meal- OR perhaps cultivated a culture of robotic parasites containing a nasty stimulant toxin with the help of rogue robo-biological engineering scientists, polluting my packaged flight pillow and blanket in an effort to keep me awake for so long that I mentally collapse. Maybe it isn't Continental's fault in actuality. It could be the trauma inflicted from the watching of strange on flight movies, such as Eternal Sunshine for the Spotless Mind, in the midst of an unstable and emotional state of mind. That was rough. It made me feel all kinds of wrong.

NO!
THE SPECULATION WAS FALSE.
I know exactly what the root of this problem is. Or who the root of the problem is, rather.

John Travolta

December 13th. Kanishka Palace Hotel, Channa Market, Karol Bagh, New Delhi, India.

Tim and I sit on the bed in room 205. We watch television, as Tim awaits a de-brief meeting with our fearless leaders. There are three English movie channels. We watch the one called [Z Cinema]. Witness the end of a poor quality film. Wait patiently as the credits roll. Anticipate the next presentation, hoping for something worthwhile- some sort of relief from the other two channels. A behind the scenes look at John Travolta's life comes on. We are hypnotized by John's awkward delivery of speech. There is talk in the program of John's insomnia problem.

BING.

I never should have watched it. I'm so easily influenced- next thing you know I'll be talking with a sensitive tone like the guy and dancing to the Bee Gees as if I were living out Saturday Night Fever.

The past two days have been overwhelming, to say the least. Thirty minutes, at most, of sleep on a highly uncomfortable flight back to the states- December 14th-15th. A thirty five hour birthday- littered with periodical consumption of Cadbury chocolate (Thanks to the group). I stayed awake until 7:00 PM on the 15th. A few close friends welcomed me home alongside my family in the airport and kidnapped me after I took a much needed shower, keeping me out and about all day long. They drove me all around my hometown, blasting music at such high decibels that I could hardly hear myself speak- reintroducing me to their world of suburban drama and frivolous behavior, which I had nearly forgotten. I slept that night until 2:00 AM the next morning. I don't know what happened. I woke up, and couldn't get back to sleep. I spent the morning of the 16th playing video games- snapping out of it around 9:30 AM, when It dawned on me that I was wasting precious life moments with a mind numbing activity.

This rude awakening lead me to suddenly feel, with great intensity, the reality of my current situation. I'm back in the 'heart of dixie'- without a clue as to how I should function here. Without a clue as to what this place means to me nowadays. Without a clue as to where I fit in.

Without my B2B Fall '08 family.

I remember stepping outside to see the winter version of my backyard... and feeling completely helpless. I took a good, long gander at my house, and thought about all of my group members simultaneously. The sense of 'no belonging' was destroying me at that moment. It was then that I realized I had been dealing with the same questions before I left for India. What is my purpose here? What should I do with myself here? Where do I truly fit in here? The end of high school brought these questions on with unrelenting force, as does the end of my time spent in India. The only difference... is that I can face the same questions with confidence and determination now, rather than fear- which was my early response to such things. I've traveled to the other side of the planet, immersing myself in a completely foreign culture, and emerged as a transformed individual- one who has proven to himself that he still possesses the ability to 'seize the moment', turn an uncomfortable experience into something amazing, and, above all else, continue learning/ open his mind/ eradicate all sorts of ignorance.

At first, these uncertain life direction pangs were nearly too much to bear. I'm still mentally chewing on these feelings, but am quite sure that I will be able to solve the temporary problems that they present. I've all the tools to do so now, courtesy of a once in a lifetime adventure. That sounds so cheesy. My companions will understand the emphasis.

I feel that I simply need to direct this energy into a productive venue. It's understandable, I think, to feel so confused in this 're entry' period- when there is everything and nothing to do, all at once. I was so active in India. The program continuously stimulated me. I now have absolutely NOTHING to do in the short term, aside from jet lag recovery rest time, which isn't working out so well.

I've been encouraged to harness this inner momentum. I talked to a couple of people that had made the trip to and fro a few times before about it. It's tempting to 'plug in', as Tim put it in his most recent post, but I can't do that to myself. Sorry to my neglected video games. I need to be completely lucid and undistracted for a while, in order to skillfully handle what's coming up inside of me and make the most out of a will to experience everything with the same amount of wonder that a trip to India evokes. The latter has been described as seeing with 'India Eyes'. I love this concept.

I need to call some people.

Where was I? Oh, yeah... so- that 'winter version of my backyard' moment. I spent the rest of the 16th contemplating these things, sleeping for tiny slices of time in the afternoon. I went to a Barnes and Nobles around 8:40 PM and stayed there until 12:30 AM this morning with a large group of friends. Some have traveled from far off college destinations to be home for the holidays and can relate to my experience in a brand new situation... kind of, sort of. I've been awake since then. I need to sleep- if slumber is still possible for this creature.

The Frequency is Courage Part II: Requiem

I hope my words find any who read this in good comfort, well slept, healthy, and more enlightened. I hope my words will bring any who read this what they are looking for, whether it be comfort, sleep, health, enlightenment, or simply some giggles. I dedicate this to Wade, who is at the moment, like the rest of us, experiencing an allergic reaction to his environment. The United States, in its present form, is not the most welcoming place in the world. Khataks and tea do not await us here. See how advanced we are! See how far we have come! Who needs such silly traditions. I did. I still do. I feel incomplete without them. Still we all must march on, ten hearts beating as one. We long for the comforts and the familiarity of the birthplace of civilization, we long for what can only be described as the controlled chaos that is India. We long for our family, the one which was forged in the fires of India. Our bonds are stronger than any metal, more valuable than any gem. Do not forget, we have climbed mountains together, we have crossed rivers together, we even ate dinner together! How many families do that?! Take what you are feeling as you would have in India, with open eyes and open hearts. Fret not over what discomfort you all may be feeling, for it will make you all the wiser. I desire nothing more in the world than to once again unite us. These first few weeks will be a trying experience, just as they were in India. I will now quote Abraham Lincoln, with some minor modifications, "Though distance may have strained, it must not break our bonds of affection. The mystic chords of memory, stretching from New England to Alabama, from Washington to Chicago, will yet swell the chorus of our union when again touched, as surely they will be, by the better angels of our nature." We will all see each other again soon, be sure of that. Until then...

The Frequency is Courage
-Doug B.

December 22, 2008

And This is called Life.

So, it's my last afternoon in India.
We're getting on the plane in a mere single digit number of hours.
today today today

Before I go, though, there was one extended metaphor (or, according to my memory of the Odyssey in 9th grade English, I think it could be called an "epic simile," which seems appropriate) that I thought of a while ago and intended to use at some point in a blog post or something, but evidently never did.
I don't know if it can be a metaphor, or a simile, without actually anything specific to analogize... but I figured I'd put it up anyway, for your letting-it-sit-in-the-back-of-your-mind-ing pleasure.

for all you folks back home, a little piece of background: the traffic here is wild. very improvisational. very 'color outside the lines'. It has more structure and technique than appear to the naked and untrained eye (certain hand signals, and everyone is super awake and alert), but as a foreigner coming in it basically looks like chaos.

Cars and trucks routinely drive in between lanes or across the central divider on the right (wrong!) side of the road. Especially to pass each other, which happens with frequency.

And so it's like this: when you're in your rickshaw, or car, or taxi, and you pull out onto the right side of the road to pass a big (brightly painted, quite pimped out) truck. And you're speeding ahead to get in front of it. And say there's another car in the lane in the distance, heading straight toward you. The only way to avoid a crash and survive the experience is to plummet forward, full speed ahead. To fly even faster towards the oncoming vehicle. Because then you pass the car you're passing, and shift smoothly back into your own lane, seconds before the other car whizzes past a few feet to your right. No room for hesitation, or second guessing, or doubt.

The first few times driving here, I would freak out instinctively, just at the sight of the car hurling towards us. But the drivers, they don't even flinch. They proceed with commitment and precision and a sense of knowing: a complete unwavering trust in the left lane ahead and the safety they can't at the moment see. And so into the fray, toward the oncoming traffic, there is nothing to do but close your eyes (well, not actually), step up the petrol, and fly forward.


Enjoy.
<3 sandy

we know a place where no cars go

I know this desk.
I have sat in this chair behind this computer within this cubicle many times before. I have checked and rechecked this blog in anxious anticipation many, many times before, sitting in this very spot. I have taken a short break to stare out the large window in front of me and gaze at the beauty and wonder that is nature on planet earth so many times. I have watched the buds on the trees bloom into magnificent white flowers, only to fall off and be replaced by leaves, lush and green. Now the trees are bare, branches draped in snow with a few brown, cracked leaves desperately still hanging on.
The music that is singing softly from the speakers throws images and memories of Dharamasala through my mind.
My re-entry was... overwhelming, to say the least.
I got home. I did not sleep.
The next day I went to visit my Grandmother.
As my Global Lab family may know, she was diagnosed with lung cancer in June. Right before we left, my family was told that the cancer had spread to her brain.
Approximately two days before leaving home and venturing slightly south to New Jersey, I went to visit her and my Poppy.
I was so nervous at the idea of spending time with my grandparents alone, I asked my cousin to join me. I was nervous to spend time with two people who I have not only known my entire life, but are part of the many factors which aided in the fact that I am existing and alive. And I was nervous. Nervous?!
Other members of my family were pressuring me to see my Grandmom, saying "the truth is she won't be alive when you get home, so go see her now."
Everything was the same as always. They were both sitting on the couch. My Grandmother was playing solitaire as she always did. Their brand new puppy Molly was hesitant of my unfamiliar company, but slowly warmed up to me. They were real excited for my upcoming trip to India, my Poppy has only been to New Delhi once and he was excited that I got to explore a country he never got the chance to. My grandparents both looked tired, with the recent diagnosis and what not on their minds, I couldn't blame them. They looked grayer and quieter than usual.
I was still nervous, being with them, feeling this strange sense of urgent pressure to soak up as much time with them as I could, but at the same time run like hell out of the room. I don't know why my family made me so nervous.... They're my family!
The pessimistic, cynical view on my Grandmothers health by the rest of my family deeply annoyed me. I guess that could be blamed on my childlike naivete, holding onto the false belief that these wonderful people I've known forever could never possibly die, but I also had a deeper sense that she would, indeed, remain alive until and unless I returned home.
When we ended our short, sweet gathering, I took both my Grandmothers hands in mine, looked her and my Poppy in the eye and said, "I am going to see you, both of you, when I get home. I promise."
So, fast forward three months.
Like I said before, I got home.
And the next day I saw my Grandmother...
And whatever consciousness was still residing inside of her frail, tiny body was able to see me, and recognize me, for the longest and shortest moment of my life.
The next morning she passed away. I woke up at 3:30 that morning, unable to fall back asleep, with only my Grandmother on my mind. I stayed up, walking about the house, waiting for the rest of my family to wake up. I knew she was passing, as I was pacing she was passing and a few hours later we got the call from my scared, sad, sweet little Poppy.
"I think she just passed."
That night, all us LuBell's gathered at my Grandparents house, all together for the first time since possibly last Christmas.
My Grandmom, my Father's mom, my Poppy's wife, was a really wonderful woman. She still is a wonderful woman, as my memories and thoughts of her are still very much alive.
I have only one regret, and that's how nervous I was to see her, or anyone for that matter, who is a member of my family. These people who I have known my whole life, who have done nothing but love and support me through all of my set backs and accomplishments, I have failed to ever really see and get to know and appreciate and express how much I actually love them.
My Grandmom knew I loved her. When her tired, barely there eyes finally focused on me that afternoon, everything about her relaxed. Her eyes softened, her face lost all tension, and if she hadn't been unable to talk or smile, I'm sure she would have. When she died early that next morning, I knew..
I feel nothing but love, and an overwhelming capacity to fully love my family, and do all that I can for them, in the same way that they did and do all they can for me.
I feel a deep compassion for my Poppy and his three children, my father, my aunt and uncle.
She is their mom.
She is my Poppy's wife. Married since they were 18.
She is also the only person who can argue with my Father and win. :)
So, here I am, working for my Dad again, writing this blog I have procrastinated writing, listening to music that reminds me of Dharamsala, and finally feeling reintegrated.
I screwed up my jet lag/getting reacquainted with the time zone thing badly, though. On my 4th night home I stayed up until 6 am with a very special friend in my driveway... you guys might know Justin? (And no, not Justin Tracy... I mean Justin Kelly.) But yea, stayed up all night telling my India story to someone who was honestly and eagerly intrigued and anxious to soak up every little detail, and then I slept from 9 am to 7 pm that entire day.... and threw everything off.
But I am back with it today.
And I love you all so much.
I really miss you guys, and I hope we all can reunite... Somewhere, someday, sometime, someplace.
Maybe I'll see you all in my lucid dreams :)
Endless amounts of love and compassion and a bed if anybody wants to travel up to New York and spend a few nights,
Mirise

December 23, 2008

Some Thoughts and Resources

Namaste Ari, Kate, Mirise, Sandy, Tim, and Wade,

I've made it through the two snowstorms this week and the freezing cold temperatures that are disturbing everyone here in North Jersey while they are trying to get out to do their last minute holiday shopping, and I'm looking forward to spending the next weeks with my family... but something is missing. As always, and maybe this is why I continue to do this work, I never really feel like I 're-enter' when I'm back in the states. I miss all of you who I just spend the last three months of my life sharing with and getting to know in such a meaningful way.

I want you to know how much I appreciated each and every moment we were able to share this fall, and how inspiring it was to work with each of you, watch you make good decisions for yourselves, and have a ton of fun while we were traveling together. You are an amazing group of young people.

Remember this - and these feelings - when something is getting you down, when things seem too difficult to persevere. This past three months just taught each of you how to navigate in this ever-changing world with grace and confidence, not as an individual, but as a collaborator and a nurturer. Keep taking that time to take a deep breath and ask yourself how you can best communicate your needs, then listen to others express theirs.

It could be India that does the transforming, but I believe it's really you that does it. Maybe we're glorifying some quality in another country or another culture because it's easier to reach outside rather than trusting what's been inside all along. Keep looking deeply in those difficult places and asking what is true.

I hope you've all had a wonderful first week back reconnecting with loved ones. I wanted to write to give you some internet resources on reentry - these are some that I found by just googling "reentry shock" or "reverse culture shock" which you can do too, and click around to see if anything makes sense. If you find any more good ones, please do share them up here on the blog. Most importantly, keep writing and sharing your thoughts in whatever capacity. That's the best way to process.

Wherever you are, and whatever you're doing, I wish you the best.

Much Love,

Tracy

http://international.missouri.edu/studyabroad/after/cominghome.shtml

This is an interesting website I came across while searching… (Seems Jennifer has an interesting perspective on her travels in India. Makes me think about what you all would put on a list like this…)
http://members.tripod.com/~jennifer_polan/india/backtousa.html

Check out this resource, from the School for International Training, written to parents of students who study abroad. Sometimes reading material written for another audience gives you a different perspective on your own experience:
http://www.sit.edu/studyabroad/parents/docs/parent_reentry_handbook.pdf

www.flickr.com
This is a Flickr badge showing public photos from Global LAB. Make your own badge here.

Program Partners

Resources